Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[**~Imhotep~**]

Excellent work!! It appears that the combination of all modifications have culminated into eliminating all the minor annoyances that were objectionable from some of the replications. I love what you have done with this. I will be replicating this today to confirm all your findings.

It appears you had the neos on the side of the relay? I will be making a run ot Radio Shack as I have to get more parts anyway. I had fun blowing up a few last night and I will get one of those 15 turn potentiometers. And give it a go

Again great research. Also what was the amp hours on the charge battery you are using and the source battery?

progress is being made

[theremart]

HEAT problems gone!!!

Well I took Lids advice and put in a 25 ohm Rheo, but it started to smoke

But then I thought, hey you got an extra 1 K High wattage military grade rheostate you picked up from surplus. put it in and Zero heat problems However... this did not give me the resistance I wanted.

Next I put in an autobulb this WORKS!

Put in a 12V auto bulb in place of the 25 ohm Rheo, now only pulling 400 Millamps and I get extra light! Draws less as I use the neo..

[theremart]

Ok details of the bulb that I added.

Here is my video..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIxpkquWldw

The bulb as I point out is a turn signal light I am unable to read the numbers on the bulb.


Have been running this now for about 5 hours all is nice and cool.

Very impressed with charging rate.

[hh1341]

The bulb as I point out is a turn signal light I am unable to read the numbers on the bulb.

Hi Mart,

Is that a 2 filament bulb?

Carl

[theremart]

Bulb question.

Hi Mart,

Is that a 2 filament bulb?

Carl

Yes it is, only using one of them.

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator-- battery sizes

I have tried all kinds of batteries and combinations. The latest thing that seemed to work well was a 5Ah / 12 volt lead acid as the drive and a 24Ah / 12 volt lead acid as the charging. My feeling was that with the lower amp draw on the drive now you would not need much. On the charging side either multiples or a large battery was necessary to catch the energy best. I don't know if I'm right or wrong. I just tried using a much bigger CFL on my setup and it really made a difference. This one is a Sylvania 23W that is the equilivant of a 100w normal bulb. The amp draw is about the same as the smaller bulb.

[hh1341]

Mart

Hmmmm,

That is strange......
The way you have it connected, is:-

One wire to one figment and the other wire to the other filament. They are both open.
The case is the ground on those bulbs, and it is still lighting.

This is some mysterious stuff.

Carl

[theremart]

Wow

Mart

Hmmmm,

That is strange......
The way you have it connected, is:-

One wire to one figment and the other wire to the other filament. They are both open.
The case is the ground on those bulbs, and it is still lighting.

This is some mysterious stuff.

Carl

I Just looked at it... one is glowing dimly the other is glowing brightly

What a mystery

[ashtweth]

Guys....

Get your replications, put the out put of the CFL on a solar panel and loop it back
i have a 120 watt and am going to try it...

[hh1341]

Guys....

Get your replications, put the out put of the CFL on a solar panel and loop it back
i have a 120 watt and am going to try it...

You First lol

[ashtweth]

Solar CFL from low current

Building now

Robert Jackson

Ideas for wacky non solar power form panels, also don't forget you can confine the photons with reflective material and power a solar panel

The Idea...Low current in to create the spike[s]to light the CFL, can
charge a battery too(already working doing that), then the photons on
the CFL are added in a CONFINED reflective space to power the solar
panel. LOOP THE SOLAR BACK TO ADD TO CHARGING BATTERY OPERATING THE
IGNITI0ON COILS..

[**~Imhotep~**]

Here is my video..

YouTube - Replication of Imhotep Osc Light


The bulb as I point out is a turn signal light I am unable to read the numbers on the bulb.


Have been running this now for about 5 hours all is nice and cool.

Very impressed with charging rate.

If hh1341 is correct, I believe there is 2 filaments in there and they share the case as a ground. So what you are possibly doing is passing through both filaments and because they share a common ground, you are getting current flow through the connection. You have actually created a super inexpensive balast resister. My balast resister cost 18 dollars. You have most likely saved people 16 bucks if they wanted to limit the current in the circuit. Very interesting The 60ma draw is also ASTOUNDING!!!!


I am floored. It looks like your light output is also great. And yours and lidmotors charging rates are exactly as i had experienced. The spikes are incredible. And lidmotor is correct you probably need to throw it in a large battery. I have burst the seals of alkalines. I dont recommend using the alkalines for any length of time. Especially with 2 coils. GREAT PROGRESS!!!

[**~Imhotep~**]

I have tried all kinds of batteries and combinations. The latest thing that seemed to work well was a 5Ah / 12 volt lead acid as the drive and a 24Ah / 12 volt lead acid as the charging. My feeling was that with the lower amp draw on the drive now you would not need much. On the charging side either multiples or a large battery was necessary to catch the energy best. I don't know if I'm right or wrong. I just tried using a much bigger CFL on my setup and it really made a difference. This one is a Sylvania 23W that is the equilivant of a 100w normal bulb. The amp draw is about the same as the smaller bulb.

I believe you are right because the charging spikes are so high. The larger battery will absorb them better. The radio shacks in my area does not have the 15 turn potentiometer. To help other people that might not be able to obtain this, what you can do if you can, is turn the unit off. And measure the resistance in the circuit across the 15 turn potentiometer and give everyone a general ball park resistance on where your at. It might not be the same for the coils other people are using, but it will give everyone a general area where resonance occur if they use the same components you are. If you cant get a good reading that way you might have to temp disconnect it and take a measurement with it out of the circuit.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Looks like everyone been busy.
Just got back for holiday and this is the result of sitting around for a week.
Will test it in the next couple of day and put up a video if it works.
Take Care All
If it works i have one for the sg too!

When you test this These would be my questions for you, I hope I dont over whelm you with them but your circuit seems interesting. On your choke what size wire, and how many windings? And on your resistance have you came up with a value yet? Are you using a 555 discreet with 2 resistors and a cap and feeding off the 12 volt source? And if you are what are the values of the resistors and the cap or are you using the noise maker circuit? What is your current draw?and are the transisters getting hot. And whats the recipe for mrs. Pauls tollhouse cookies.. lol Sorry to overwhelm you.

ps : love your music is it ok if I use some of it in my future movies.

[hh1341]

So what you are possibly doing is passing through both filaments and because they share a common ground, you are getting current flow through the connection

.


Common ground it is.

Carl