Oscillating Reed Switch Pulse Motor.

[citfta]

Beautiful work Matt!

Those look great Matt! Excellent workmanship as always from you. Glad you got that CNC machine working like it should.

Take care,
Carroll

[Matthew Jones]

The most obvious drawback, compared to the internal ceramic bearings, is the addition of the larger 1/4" brass axle that has to turn along with the magnet tube.

LOL... You mean the 3 inch piece of OAK dowel rod I am going to substitute your brass rod with? LOL.. TO hell with dragging all that weight around. Not counting the 8 bucks to buy that thing.

All I need is 3+- inch's to make everything work.

@ Carroll. Thanks. I just about got everything working out with it. I wish I could find a half way decent 5 axis software so I could use it to fullest. I even got pipeline for circuit boards I just figured out this week so I can make boards as well.

Matt

[Turion]

Rod

I sent you a 1/4 inch plastic rod made out of the HARD stuff. DOn't know if it will work or not. It's in the mail.

Dave

[Allen Burgess]

Axle.

The other lightweight and strong axle material I tried was "Carbon fiber rod". "These rods are extremely stiff and lightweight and have a very low coefficient of expansion", ...

[Allen Burgess]

Those look great Matt! Excellent workmanship as always from you. Glad you got that CNC machine working like it should.

Take care,
Carroll

Is this the "Erroneous Forum" you've been deprecating on over on the OU site?

[OrionLightShip]

Is this the "Erroneous Forum" you've been deprecating on over on the OU site?

Some of us get tired of the crap output level around here Allan.
It's not about you and is certainly nothing for you to take offense or issue with. It's all good. Carroll is one of the good guys.

[Matthew Jones]

Carroll is a good guy, I have known him for years now. I know ya'll have issues but buck up and eat them, lets get the work done. I'm sure your a good person too and good people just need to understand its hard to judge other people when you read what they write. Rest assured I am making an attempt to watch my behavior as well. I want thing to start happening around here. Stop the talk and start producing, this a much better forum than any of the others.

???I have question??? Before I can finish the frame.

Does the Reed switch run Perpendicular to the MAGNET, or is it parallel.

I need to know before I cut this thing. The coil actually has spot that carries the reed. I just want to get it right the first time.

Thanks
Matt

[Turion]

This thread

I have to tell all of you that the one thing I have noticed about THIS particular thread is that all the comments here so far have been positive and moving the thread along in the right direction. There hasn't been a single one of the usual cast of characters dumping useless YouTube videos here or Naysaying every scrap of information that is presented. I could get to like this!
Dave

[Allen Burgess]

Position of the Reed Switch.

Carroll is a good guy, I have known him for years now. I know ya'll have issues but buck up and eat them, lets get the work done. I'm sure your a good person too and good people just need to understand its hard to judge other people when you read what they write. Rest assured I am making an attempt to watch my behavior as well. I want thing to start happening around here. Stop the talk and start producing, this a much better forum than any of the others.

???I have question??? Before I can finish the frame.

Does the Reed switch run Perpendicular to the MAGNET, or is it parallel.

I need to know before I cut this thing. The coil actually has spot that carries the reed. I just want to get it right the first time.

Thanks
Matt

@Matthew Jones,

The "Reed Switch" and power coil need to have the freedom to pivot; Move around the magnet 360 degrees and move up and down too! Mount the "Reed Switch" at 90 degrees to start. Give the coil freedom to twist! Also, my C.D roof was free to slide aound the magnet, and the coil just snug enough to pull in and out. You have to"Fly" the switch. The adjustments are in the millimeter range. The acceleration comes from advancing the timing of the switch. It's not too difficult to locate the new acceleration "sweet spot" when the R.P.M.'s stabilize. You need to give the "Reed Switch" and power coil the freedom of maximum positioning latitude in every direction. Start playing with it a little bit before you try a top end run up. You'll begin to have fun!

[Matthew Jones]

Alright I can do that.

Thanks
Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Reed switch.

@Matt,

You're bound to get a real fun run for you money out of this build. One last thing: A "normally open switch" has to be attached to the coil wires so the contacts open and close inward toward the coil core from the electromagnetic field, then outward away from the core towards the PM field. The PM field is not always in the same place if the magnet's spinning, but the coil's electromagnetic field always remains fixed in the same position.

[Matthew Jones]

Well I have the same reed switch you show, so if this build is gonna work, then its going to work.

I see how it should work. You get opposing field on the reed contact which opens an closes it.

I appreciate the direction.

Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Update.

@Matthew Jones,

Made any progress? I bet those magnetic bearings are binding.

[Matthew Jones]

@Matthew Jones,

Made any progress? I bet those magnetic bearings are binding.

How much MONEY you wanna bet...?? I got the thing together I just have to put the coil and switch on it.
I kinda messed my hand up and the little stuff seems to hurt worse so I just had to set it aside for the time being. Stitch's come out Monday,

Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Injury.

@Matthew Jones,

Looks like you tried to retrieve your wedding ring from the automatic garbage disposal! I'm glad the bearings worked; That setup appears to be very clean. Don't re-open the wound. Looking foward to another video. Be careful.