Oscillating Reed Switch Pulse Motor.

[Matthew Jones]

Also "Magnets for less" has the same magnet near half the price of K&j

1 x 1 x 1/4id

3/4 x 3/4 x 1/4id

Matt

[OrionLightShip]

Also "Magnets for less" has the same magnet near half the price of K&j

1 x 1 x 1/4id

3/4 x 3/4 x 1/4id

Matt

You can have the magnets I already ordered if you haven't placed the order yet.

[OrionLightShip]

@Matthew Jones,

There's nothing to the circuit! It's just a Reed switch in series with a bifilar coil and battery. There would be nothing to see in a video because it's totally enclosed. Go back and look at post #3 with the five pictures: The power to the coil passes directly through the Reed switch. There's nothing more to it, that's it! It's infernally simple!

I'll be here to help guide you through the build. I'm thrilled that you're undertaking a replication.

Enlarge the picture below, there's a nice view of the coil, but what you see there is all of it! The six main componants: Power coil on core, 1/8 inch brass axel, ceramic bearing, battery and Reed Switch.

I'm going to sit back and the big boys build this......

I sold my 3d printer that I built to a friend for a profit but I am very good at creating 3d printer files using openscad if anyone needs that service.

If Matt is going to build this then I will throw that 100 bucks his way because I know his skill set will knock this out of the park.

[Allen Burgess]

Also "Magnets for less" has the same magnet near half the price of K&j

1 x 1 x 1/4id

3/4 x 3/4 x 1/4id

Matt

@Mathew Jones,

If you add this low order fee, you'll find the K&J magnet cheaper:

*Orders Under $19.99 Have A $5.00 Low Order Handling Fee Added During Checkout

[Matthew Jones]

Ya after I ordered I realized between the magnet and the shipping both were equally as expensive.

I usually buy from CMS magnetics, hands down the best, but he doesn't have any with holes in the center.

They are on the way, either way.

I founjd the info on the coil, just one question though...Did you put the whole roll of 26 on the sewing spindle? I am worried about those reed switch's holding up. 200 ft of awg 26 is 8+- OHMS of resistance. That nets you 1.5 amp of current. The reed is rated at .5 amp at 10 watts, then you got to deal with the spike if you have a good impedance level.

I'll try it but I have used those relays they don't handle that much. I have some that do.

We'll see though. Just let me know how much wire you put on that coil roughly if anything.

Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Coil.

@Matthew Jones,

There's no where near an entire spool of #26 ga. on the thread bobbin. Don't excced the .5 amperage with too much wire. The thread bobbin has a thick core. Let me point out that the coil field seperates the contacts nearly instantly after they close from the PM field, severly limiting the on time. The coil is wound bifilar and series connected. It starts on the bottom and ends on the top. The positive of the battery goes to one side of the Reed switch; The other side goes to the top wire of the coil. The bottom coil wire goes to the negative of the battery. The important feature of this build is the position of the Reed switch directly on the coil winding. I found a picture of the actual thread bobbin: There's only a few layers of thread on the bobbin in the picture, the rest is the thick core.

[Matthew Jones]

Never mind what I posted I get it. Because the coil comes on when the magnet lines up it mitigates the magnetic field from the PM. You have power coming in for 2 directions switched via the reed then each side of the coil is grounded, so it does a push pull.

Sorry I am blond.

Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Oscillation.

I built this motor as simply as possible just to test the bearings. I started "fishing" for a sweet spot with the Reed switch when I got a sudden burst of speed touching the base of the coil with the switch. The theory came later. This design is capable of "run away" self powering that's really awesome. I had no idea what I was in for!

[Matthew Jones]

Did you ever put a tach on it to see how fast it was going, or look at the frequency of switching, anything like that?

Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Laser Tach.

I went up through the bottom with a Laser Tach, perched over a counter top. It climbed in speed to around 25 thousand R.P.M's at a regular rate for maybe half a minute; Then it hyper accelerated to nearly 50 thousand R.P.M in a few seconds. John Bedini surmised the rotor "skipped" a turn. My analog milli-amp meter needle was resting solidly on the peg.

It may be a mistake to try and save a few dollars on a magnet if a flaw shows up at 800Hrz!

[Matthew Jones]

My analog milli-amp meter needle was resting solidly on the peg.

I wasn't reading any draw of current?

[Allen Burgess]

Current draw.

I disconnected the positive battery lead and tried to coonect over to the negative, but it died. It needs the battery in the circuit, even though there was no apparent current draw at top speed.

[OrionLightShip]

@Matthew Jones,

There's no where near an entire spool of #26 ga. on the thread bobbin. Don't excced the .5 amperage with too much wire. The thread bobbin has a thick core. Let me point out that the coil field seperates the contacts nearly instantly after they close from the PM field, severly limiting the on time. The coil is wound bifilar and series connected. It starts on the bottom and ends on the top. The positive of the battery goes to one side of the Reed switch; The other side goes to the top wire of the coil. The bottom coil wire goes to the negative of the battery. The important feature of this build is the position of the Reed switch directly on the coil winding. I found a picture of the actual thread bobbin: There's only a few layers of thread on the bobbin in the picture, the rest is the thick core.

Ok, think I'm starting to get the idea.....
It works like an inline solenoid relay connected to an induction coil that opens the contacts momentarily when current flows, then closes them again. This one just uses two fields like a spring in a way that I will have to accept without actually understanding.

I have seen someone run these type magnets up to 70,000 with pancake coils and a hall sensor and no explosion....he was nuts though....no shield at all.

[Matthew Jones]

Ok, think I'm starting to get the idea.....
It works like an inline solenoid relay connected to an induction coil that opens the contacts momentarily when current flows, then closes them again. This one just uses two fields like a spring in a way that I will have to accept without actually understanding.

I have seen someone run these type magnets up to 70,000 with pancake coils and a hall sensor and no explosion....he was nuts though....no shield at all.

I am not shielding it either. Go balls out or don't go at all.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

I disconnected the positive battery lead and tried to coonect over to the negative, but it died. It needs the battery in the circuit, even though there was no apparent current draw at top speed.

Not doubting or anything but if thats whats happening the inductive spike going back to source averaging the current coming into the coils creates a situation on an amp meter that makes it appear there is no current draw. This would be more relative do to the low impedance coil and their tendency to have near source voltage transient behavior. Thats why you need the battery still.
Its taking power out and putting power back so fast the meter cannot tell. At that point you need a scope.

Matt