Oscillating Reed Switch Pulse Motor.

[Allen Burgess]

Drill holes.

Perhaps I'm just panicky I'm in the middle of an electrostatic build and my work space in this apartment is tiny. I will be slow on the go at best, logistics of taking care of my Mother takes up a lot more of my time than I thought it would. I know...excuse excuses....well onward. I just need to take things one step at a time.

My offer to Patrick still stands though!
I think a lot of great things could be accomplished through working in coop groups instead of everyone taking the shotgun approach to things.

@OrionLightShip,

A 3/32" drill bit along with the 1/8", allows 1/32" to sand from the brass rod to slip the bearing over and 1/32" of extra material left in the small PVC hole to pressure the end of the axle rod. By placing the brass axle rod in an electric drill chuck, it only takes about three seconds to sand that much brass away with fine grit metal sand paper. The 3/32" drill bit is the only extra piece of equipment you need to buy, then everything snap fits together like Legos. A hacksaw blade would help too. Don't forget, the length of the finished axle is under 3" in length. This means you only need to sand 1" of rod on each end! Patience and attention to detail will pay dividends. There's hardly any real work involved! I covered all the pitfalls! I could finish this project in around ten minutes with all the tools and parts in place.

[OrionLightShip]

@OrionLightShip,

The brass sands down very easily. You can buy individual drill bits. It's not that hard to manage. Sleep on it. You can do it Pal!

Perhaps I'm just panicky I'm in the middle of an electrostatic build and my work space in this apartment is tiny. I will be slow on the go at best, logistics of taking care of my Mother takes up a lot more of my time than I thought it would. I know...excuse excuses....well onward. I just need to take things one step at a time.

My offer to Patrick still stands though!
I think a lot of great things could be accomplished through working in coop groups instead of everyone taking the shotgun approach to things.

[Allen Burgess]

I'm not sure I'm up to the task here since this is not reduced to cookie cutter. I'm not what you would call a highly skilled builder by any means. I don't have any hope, with the information given, that I would be able to replicate what you have accomplished.

I'd rather opt for a cooperative venture, send my magnets and a hundred bucks to Patrick and let him share the results....

what say you Patrick?

@OrionLightShip,

The brass sands down very easily. You can buy individual drill bits. It's not that hard to manage. Sleep on it. You can do it Pal!

[OrionLightShip]

A level of "Chinese style" craftsmanship is needed to fit the axle and bearings in the coupling. Don't bring glue of any kind close to the ceramic bearings. Here's how I suggest you go about it:

You need to cut the brass rod down to under a foot to handle it; The ends need to be sanded to allow the ceramic bearings to slip over the rod from each end. The center of the rod should have a 3/4" inch center section of the original 1/8" thickness for the the bearings to snug fit onto.

I'm not sure I'm up to the task here since this is not reduced to cookie cutter. I'm not what you would call a highly skilled builder by any means. I don't have any hope, with the information given, that I would be able to replicate what you have accomplished.

I'd rather opt for a cooperative venture, send my magnets and a hundred bucks to Patrick and let him share the results....

what say you Patrick?

[Allen Burgess]

Fitting the bearings.

A level of "Chinese Style" craftsmanship is needed to fit the axle and bearings into the coupling. Don't bring glue of any kind anywhere near the ceramic bearings! Here's how I suggest you go about it:

You need to cut the brass rod down to under a foot to handle it; The ends need to be sanded to allow the 1/8" I.D. ceramic bearings to slip over the rod from each end. The center of the rod should have a 3/4" inch center section left with the original 1/8" thickness for the the bearings to snug fit onto.

One of the holes through the PVC coupling needs to be smaller then the other. The smaller hole needs to be small enough hold the sanded end of the axle rod tight. The larger hole can be exactly 1/8" inch to allow the thicker center portion to pass through. Everything holds together by highly toleranced pressure. Do not apply pressure to the bearings latteraly from the top. Use a (Toothpick) tool to move them sideways only from the lower bushing!

Finishing; The axle needs to be cut so that the far end is short enough to pass completely through the larger hole, before the thicker center part hits the smaller hole on the other side. This allows us to get the last bearing on. So, the axle goes through into the the tube rotor, then the far bearing goes on; Then the tail end of the axle needs to be short enough to push all the way through the first hole to mount the second bearing before the thicker center section hits the other wall. Then it comes back through and everything tightens up.

The rotor tube magnet specifications state that the I.D. bore hole is 1/4". Actually, the dimension is larger to allow for a 1/4" insertion.

The magnet rotor will sail for a very long time with a tiny push. You'll be amazed by the length of "free wheeling time" if you succeed at mounting the rotor this way on the ceramic bearings. Deep satisfaction reward!

[Allen Burgess]

From the picture with the magnet mounted on the shaft, it appears you have a plastic bushing?

@OrionLightShip,

That was just a prop for the photograph. The axle holes are drilled midway through the coupling on the perpendicular, and one hole should be a little undersized to squeeze fit the sanded axle. The other photo anomaly is the position of the Reed switch pins. The pins actually face in the opposite direction, away from the coil. Approching the stationary rotor magnet with power connected to the normally open Reed switch can cause the contacts to close and weld shut. This can happen when starting the motor. You need to spin the rotor first by hand, then connect the power and approach the magnet with the Reed switch and coil while the rotor's spinning only!

[OrionLightShip]

shaft bushing

From the picture with the magnet mounted on the shaft, it appears you have a plastic bushing?

[Allen Burgess]

Schematic.

@Minoly,

The schematic looks pretty good. I'm sorry I can't supply you with the actual core dimension of the thread spool and the Ohmic resistance of the windings. The original coil's out of reach, in a storage locker back in Northern California.

[Allen Burgess]

Precision ceramic bearings.

Hello Richard,

Thank you for your email. I show you ordered 2 different full ceramic bearings from us. The part numbers are:

R144-T9/P58 LD ZRO2 (.125x.250x.093) - $48.95 each.

R144-TP/C3 Z/S #5 AF2 (.125x.250x.093) - $79.95 each.

Sorry, I am not able to offer this size flanged in a full ceramic type. Feel free to contact me with any other questions.

Michael Rudinsky
Boca Bearing Company
1420 Neptune Drive, Suite A
Boynton Beach, FL 33426
[email protected]
PH: 561-998-0004/ 800-332-3256
Fax: 561-998-0119/ 800-409-9191
Boca Bearing Company :: Ceramic Bearing Specialists

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMTVv5qpbUY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBxH3XDQZx4&list=TLmEwbUqtvZmk&noredirect=1

Here's a picture of the less expensive one below. The costlier model is made from different materials for longevity, and not worth it for the running times involved.

R144-T9/P58 LD ZRO2 (.125x.250x.093) - $48.95 each.

Fitting these bearings on the brass axle requires a small amount of sanding. That completes the parts list!

[Allen Burgess]

Oh, what is the gauge, total resistance, core width and height of the coil you made? Not the spools core, the actual core size of the wire. I think that wood spool does not allow the wire to have such a small core size.

It looks like the spool you used is much shorter than the one you have in this picture, could be the angle of the photo...
Thanks,
Patrick

@Minoly,

The magnet wire is 26 gauge. I can't answer those other questions. Anything should work keeping in general proportion. The important feature is the series connected bifilar wrap.

[THEminoly]

Oh, what is the gauge, total resistance, core width and height of the coil you made? Not the spools core, the actual core size of the wire. I think that wood spool does not allow the wire to have such a small core size.

It looks like the spool you used is much shorter than the one you have in this picture, could be the angle of the photo...
Thanks,
Patrick

[THEminoly]

tinycad

Yes... very contagious, love working on these smaller projects. Allen is this schematic how we are connecting everything up, or is there a need for the reed relay?



Cool - Patrick

These are pictures of perhaps the World's first Internaly Motorized Alternator, minus the output wrap.

Left to right:

1- View of the 3/4 inch spinner in the 2 1/2 inch PVC core.
2- Miniature 1/4 O.D. , 1/8 I.D. all ceramic bearing on top of a Radio Shack 12 volt 6 amp hour battery.
3- Position of the 12 volt Reed Switch on the Hi Voltage Spool Coil. Pins should point away from the magnet..
4- Top secured for runing with coil seated down partly inside the output core.
5- The six main componants: Power coil on core, 1/8 inch brass axel, ceramic bearing, battery and Reed Switch.

[Allen Burgess]

[Allen Burgess]

Thread spool coil form.

Here's a picture of the kind of thread spool you'll need to wind the wire coil on: These spools come in different sizes. A medium size spool gauged from the pictures should be available in a craft shop without the string.

Next you see the Radio Shack Magnet wire set. We're going to use the "Red Wire".

[Allen Burgess]

1/8" Brass axle rod.

Here's a 1/8" industrial strength rod from ebay; Any local hadware store should stock this kind of industrial rod: This is not a welding rod.

NEW K&S Solid Brass Rod 1/8 8164 NIB
$1.42
Buy It Now
4 watching
|
843 sold
Stock# - k+sr8164 mfg# - 8164. This is the 1/8" Solid Brass Rod from K Precision Metals. K Solid Brass Rod 3/32. K Solid Brass Rod 5/32. K 1/16 Solid Brass Rod (3) K Round Brass Tube