Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

I'll be happy to leave.

you lash out like a child. Adios

Bye, oh and do post a demo but do it on your own thread. I'll look for it in a few more years.
Lead these people big guy if you can. Otherwise youtube will always drown you inaction

............

[Turion]

I'll be happy to leave. And you can go back to posting YouTube videos and other people's work because you have nothing.
Which is why you couldn't accept the challenge in the FIRST place and why you lash out like a child. Adios

[BroMikey]

Your loss. I'm building it anyway. Just won't show it here.

I will start a new thread on this.

Thanks Dave for moving on

[BroMikey]

Just won't show it here.

Like i said hot air

Same ole tricks you play, first post a lot of untested circuits, then say say say you built them all never showing us or promising you will and never post a demo. Just spinning your wheels wasting time. I will warn anyone seeing your posts, informing them of the harassment you put me thru. I built your stuff, putting out good money to do it and you ignored my questions.

Until you show the group something running without fear, posting all the data and diagrams it is safe to say you are still scared. Just admit it and tell everyone that the NDA that you are under has you running scared. I would be too. Hoping people will learn all the same things you learned and more has you posting random stuff that will never reach 100%

WE don't need your aggravation tactics here, you may go in peace. It is you who is a waste of every bodies time. Double speak, "I will only post what's running on my bench challenge" then "but I won't show it here?"

Same ole magic trick played on the minds of the gullible, like I use to be. shame on me

[Turion]

Your loss. I'm building it anyway. Just won't show it here.

By the way, the fact that you didn't point this out shows me that you looked at that schematic and have no idea what it is doing, because that little example with the wheel is NOT a Tesla Switch. Just because it has four batteries does NOT make it a Tesla Switch. Someone who had actually BUILT a Tesla Switch and understood how they work would KNOW that. Obviously you have never built one, or if you did, you don't understand it, because you certainly don't have that knowledge. I've posted the circuit twice now, and YOU posted it once, and it went right over your head all three times.

Still, it works as claimed. With some additions and adjustments it can exceed COP>1. But you will never know.

What about that challenge? You CAN'T accept it because you would have NOTHING to talk about from here on out. I find that hilarious. You'd actually have to build something!

Edit:
Lowes didn't have the ONE battery I needed to add to my 3 to make a set of four, and I'm not about to buy 4 new batteries for this setup. So, I have some lawn and garden batteries that are old and I need to run my desulfating setup on them before using them. That can take up to 12 hours per battery. I put one on the desulfating setup last night, just in case, and a second on it before I left for town today. So probably sometime tomorrow before all batteries are desulfated. That gives me tonight to get everything soldered together and all ready for the batteries. I was going to use the same small rotor I used last time, but I decided to go with a bigger rotor so I can easily move on to the changes and adjustments to get this COP>1. When this is up and running and ready to go, and I have had a couple days to test everything and make sure it is working correctly, I will start a new thread on this.

[BroMikey]

I said I would build one TOO, AGAIN, and I am working on it tonight.

I knew you wouldn't accept the challenge. LOL. .

I am suppose to believe that you will show a working T switch? LOL don't make me laugh

[Turion]

I didn't suggest building a $600 Tesla Switch. I suggested building THIS one that I showed. As basic, as simple, and as inexpensive as you can get. You know that is what I suggested. Again you try and twist my words, and do a really crappy job of it. I said I would build one TOO, AGAIN, and I am working on it tonight.

I knew you wouldn't accept the challenge. LOL. You don't have anything you have built to show. Just YouTube videos of other people's work.

I have said MANY TIMES NOW (ARE YOU PAYING ATTENTION?) that the Tesla Switch is COP 1 at BEST. Once you learn how to build one and get it to perform at COP 1, you can move onto the next step. THAT is learning how to use the LOAD to go COP>1. It is the LOAD that determines whether you are a success or a failure. But until you build a switch that works, there is NO next step. No "extra" to be had.

I replicated Matt's two coil motor setup that keeps the batteries charged and the motor running. In THAT case the "extra" is the mechanical energy you produce with the motor while the batteries remain charged.

[BroMikey]

build it inefficiently if you want to.

That's your problem, not mine.

how about it big man? You up for it? Because i sure am.[/b]

better yet you post a circuit and show it running that gets 70% recovery like have stated for years, while you have us building inferior stuff.

If you don't get something working, i predict you will be viewed as a hot air machine. That is why you hate youtube, people show results, most of who you view as dishonest

i know you need this so have fun, your time is coming to a close. I don't need your challenge to prove who is the bigger man and all of that. You have a way of playing tricks on the people thinking you are trying to help. There are other projects, we don't need a cop one tesla switch.

Maybe other will ubderstand you better and build it for $400-$600 i don't have that kind of cash to build another dead end project.

Now if you can do it that is great, but for the last 15 years it was you who have made all these boasts, not me.

[Turion]

...only 28.2 watts out of 100 is recovered BECAUSE OF THE INEFFICIENCY OF WHAT'S SHOWN. Build it inefficiently if you want to. That wouldn't be my choice. Once again you are taking comments I made about a SPECIFIC EXAMPLE and applying them to everything. That's YOUR problem, not mine.

I have reed switches, coil, rotor and transistors. Will have to pick up two more batteries in town tomorrow. All my batteries are in use for other projects at the moment. And I have over 30 batteries. Have to go in to get groceries, and run other errands. I will also try running this with 9 volt rechargables. This means I won't have it running until sometime tomorrow or very early Wednesday morning, since I will be up all night again tomorrow night.

I notice you didn't respond to my challenge, so I will repost it here:

I'll make a deal with you. I won't post about a SINGLE THING from this point on that I do not have up and running on my bench. If you do the same. This means no YouTube videos, no Thane propaganda unless you have it running to show a working model and show us data. How about it big man? You up for it? Because I sure am.

[BroMikey]

I never said the best recovery you can get from the 3BGS is 25% nor did anybody who knows ANYTHING about it. If only 25% of the energy that leaves the two batteries in series

EXPENSIVE versions. The one I have running on my bench probably cost between $400-600.

Now some things I CAN show running, show input data and output data,

You want direction?

No I don't want direction but someone will.

..... only 28.2 watts out of 100 is recovered because of the inefficiency of what is shown.

How much CAN BE recovered?

Never said otherwise.


But learning how to do this is a process.

YES, I agree, there is nothing exciting here.

Recovering 28.2 watts to reuse out of 100 is a little better than 25% extra to contribute to extended run time.

[Turion]

Build what? The data keeps changing, this picture? Last week it was 70% recovery on the 3bgs then you and your idol changed it to 25% is the best we can do after stating for years 70% recovery

I never said the best recovery you can get from the 3BGS is 25% nor did anybody who knows ANYTHING about it. If only 25% of the energy that leaves the two batteries in series went THROUGH the load to the charge battery, it wouldn't work at all. You get better than 50% of the voltage (24+ volts) and all of the amps, because amps are the same EVERYWHERE in the circuit. Plus if you run the boost module through a load ALSO to the charge battery you recover some more. You have to rotate the batteries and all you will get is extended run times, but that alone proves the point. Just like with the Tesla switch. As ALWAYS, the LOAD determines the success or failure.

This week we are to build a T switch COP 1 WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF WILD OUT OF THE BLUE CHANGES.

Not "out of the blue changes" just options. I showed three or four ways to build it, not "changes" to an original design. And you choose to apply SPECIFIC STATEMENTS I made about SPECIFIC options I posted to ALL the options I posted, which is par for the course for someone who never pays attention in the first place.

Dont run it fast you say.

Which applies to ONE mechanical version, which only needs to be rotated every 20 minutes. If the mechanical switch is used for a DIFFERENT VERSION and you try to run it fast, the contacts will overheat.

or long citing possible lithium battery may overload. The standard information concerning this subject states 12v batteries will become 36v batteries with no harm done.

I never said you couldn't run lithium "long citing possible lithium battery may overload." If you actually READ the article I linked to it discussed lithium accepting HUGE amps, but NOT high voltage like lead acid. I never USED the word overload. Not ever. Get your facts straight.

Nobody has a clue which way to go. Then you pop in and suggest we go for it. Go for what, that picture ?

I showed 3 or 4 versions of the Tesla switch hoping one would interest people enough to BUILD it and once they see it will work, move forward with more advanced, EXPENSIVE versions. The one I have running on my bench probably cost between $400-600. You going to follow directions and build THAT one? Probably not. But you could build one of the far less expensive ones. I need to build a model of EVERYTHING I post about to prove it works?

I'll make a deal with you. I won't post about a SINGLE THING from this point on that I do not have up and running on my bench. If you do the same. This means no YouTube videos, no Thane propaganda unless you have it running to show a working model and show us data. How about it big man? You up for it? Because I sure am.

Now some things I CAN show running, show input data and output data, but I will not show the schematic for how it works, because I am not ready to show that yet. Especially to people who have not built a basic model to prove they understand the concepts.

You want direction? Build the simple setup from your post above with four batteries and a rotor. It runs fine on lead acid batteries that are in good shape. If your batteries are lithium and have built in BMS they won't overcharge, and all that system does is keep the motor running anyway. Unless of course you modify it. But let's not talk about that yet. Build it first. I will build one later today or tonight while I am dog watching if I run out of time today. Not rocket science by any means. Oh, I have to make sure I have reed switches to build one. I don't use them much, so may have to order some if I don't have any. That may delay me a couple days, but I THINK I remember ordering some a while back. Going to check now. For a long term run I would replace the reed switch with my magnetic automobile points switch anyway. Reed switches wear out after a while.

[BroMikey]

Keep waiting. Or actually BUILD something. Your choice. LOL.

Build what? The data keeps changing, this picture? Last week it was 70% recovery on the 3bgs then you and your idol changed it to 25% is the best we can do after stating for years 70% recovery

This week we are to build a T switch COP 1 WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF WILD OUT OF THE BLUE CHANGES. Dont run it fast you say or long citing possible lithium battery may overload. The standard information concerning this subject states 12v batteries will become 36v batteries with no harm done.

Electrodyne stated 100hz minimum and 800hz is dangerous. You like 60hz. Where is the demo? Of your alternate twist version you expect everyone to build without any direction? Let's see your batteries coming to life cop 1

Nobody has a clue which way to go. Then you pop in and suggest we go for it. Go for what, that picture ?

[Turion]

Keep waiting. Or actually BUILD something. Your choice. LOL.

[BroMikey]

Here is the simplest Tesla Switch design I have ever built....... you have to build it and believe it can work. Otherwise you are a waste of time.
]

Show us. We are still waiting on the generator with all of the same big talk. Its no wonder you can't keep a following the way you demean innocent bistanders. Show us tough guy. Anything
Its you who has wasted lots of time. COP 1

you call everyone a waste of your time and you can't make it work either and show it off. you need to be taught proper manners. In school science class the teacher led the way doing a demo for all the students. well how about a demo before you attack us?

its a pretty picture but there ain't nothin like the real thing......

[Turion]

The top drawing is the way the magnets were in the WHITE machine. I" x 1" magnets with a bit of rotor plastic between them.
The bottom way is how the magnets were in the FIRST rotor I put in the BLACK machine.
I also thought the small magnet between the other two could be the problem because it was a "change".
The LAST rotor I put in the Black machine (with only 20 magnets instead of 24) did NOT use two magnets back to back as the two pictures above show. The rotor was only 1" thick and I used 1" magnets, so both ends of the magnet were flush with the outside edge of the rotor. Magnets were secured by epoxy and non-magnetic set screws. North magnet on one side of the rotor and South magnet on the other, just like in the FIRST drawing you show. Still no luck. Which is why I think the steel plate on top to mount the motor to is the issue. But, testing will help determine the problem.



Here is the simplest Tesla Switch design I have ever built. This is Matt's design and uses a simple rotor (motor) to do the switching. It had SIX magnets on the rotor, not the FOUR shown in the drawing. There are quite a FEW improvements that can be made to this simple design to increase the torque of the motor and the input to the charge batteries, but first you have to build it and believe it can work. Otherwise you are a waste of time.