Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[PolandKapa]

Clarence: Could you answer my questions in a private message?
The answer may be here, in the subject.

ALL: Maybe a better idea would be to add rods of different metals.

http://www.npfasteners.com/pdfs/galvanic-corrosion-chart.pdf

I wonder whether the use crystal battery cell with capacitors, and closing the circuit on a stronger charging system ?

sorry for my bad english

[level]

Test of Barbosa and Leal single transformer captor arrangement from their patents

@All:
Just tried an experiment with Barbosa and Leal's single transformer captor arrangement, exactly as shown in their patent docs. I powered with a battery and inverter to eliminate ground loop issues. The power draw for the transformer with no load connected is 20 Watts, and the secondary loop current measured as 73 Amps. I had my earth ground wire wrapped perpendicularly around the secondary loop wire about 4 turns. The hot phase wire from the inverter was connected to the secondary loop, which is one of the connection configurations Barbosa and Leal show in the patent doc. I basically had everything hooked up exactly as shown for one of their possible single transformer configurations in Barbosa and Leal's patent doc. My earth ground wire goes to a copper water pipe which runs under ground about 6 feet below the ground surface outside the house. It forms a pretty good earth ground.

My intention was to see if using the earth ground wire wrapped around the captor secondary wire would have any noticeable difference at all. Barbosa and Leal apparently specified that you need a whole extensive ground rod array, but in this test I just wanted to check if the earth ground wire wrapped around the secondary loop wire would have any noticeable effect.

I connected a 100 Watt light bulb between the secondary loop wire, which is connected directly to the inverter hot wire, and the inverter neutral. The inverter output power went up from 20 Watts to about 117 Watts. I could not measure or see any difference at all whether I had the earth ground wire connected or not. It seems to do absolutely nothing, which when wired in the way it is shown in the patent doc it is not really surprising that it has no effect.
So when everything was connected exactly as Barbosa and Leal showed as one possible configuration in their patent diagram, it just doesn't seem to do anything out of the ordinary.

Even though I don't have an extensive earth ground rod array, my earth ground is still pretty good, so if earth ground really does anything in this sort of wiring configuration you would think that there would be at least some noticeable difference between when the earth ground wire is connected and when it is not connected. I saw no difference at all in my test setup. The secondary loop current went up by maybe a half an Amp when I connected in the 100W light bulb, but did not change at all when the earth ground wire was connected or disconnected.

If I get the chance I may test the same setup with Clarence's method of having the inverter neutral go to one earth ground and the load connected to another separate earth ground, separated by some distance, forming an earth ground return path between the load and the inverter neutral.

I also tried measuring the voltage between the secondary winding, which was connected to the inverter hot, and my earth ground wire, and the voltage measured about 35 VAC, but I could not draw any power off it. When I connected a 35 Watt light bulb across these two connection points the voltage went to zero.

[wantomake]

We just starting I hope

Thanks Clarence and Mikey,
Let's not be handing out Science Fair awards just yet.

I'm only trying to learn and find "cheaper" means to build this. I hope Shylo can use some of the info from my poor man's setup.

I just wrapped tightly the #4 awg around the two coils tie wraps. Not sure of direction coils are wound inside the can. So just did simple winding for test purposes. From those eariler Kurt Oscillator builds I saw high voltage from the can of the coils. Hitby tried the earth experiments and posted a YouTube video. That's why I thought to test this way. Very surprised to see voltage on the captor loop.

Will post pictures if today's test shows increase in return. Buying more 8' rods to drive in the middle of the input grid.

wantomake

[Minsky]

This is the drawing I was referring to. In it you can plainly see one end of the captor is connected to the ground rods and the other end is connected to the load. The captor loops around the 4 AWG wire make it a transformer. Now the question is; does the 4AWG wire transfer energy to the captor loop or is the captor loop adding to the current in the 4 AWG wire?



Take care,
Carroll

The way I see it, the earth return is adding energy to the load. It's coiled around the #4 AWG to modulate and attract energy from the ground.

At the most this coiled earth return could be thought of as a current transformer but it would be wrong in this device because its working with a different form of current called the B-EMF. The B-EMF current behaves not at all like the current we know.

I believe the #4 AWG shorted loop is the component labeled 'captor loop'. But its just taxonomy. I'm not too concerned what its called.

Peace.

[citfta]

This is the drawing I was referring to. In it you can plainly see one end of the captor is connected to the ground rods and the other end is connected to the load. The captor loops around the 4 AWG wire make it a transformer. Now the question is; does the 4AWG wire transfer energy to the captor loop or is the captor loop adding to the current in the 4 AWG wire?

I'm looking at Clarence's replication. The load is not hooked to the secondary in any way shape or form and that is where it differs from a transformer. It's pretty obvious if you ask me.

There are other differences too but this is sufficient to show it's not a transformer.

Good luck with your experiments.

Take care,
Carroll

[BroMikey]

It sounds like amplification, says he is using a capacitor.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUtRFSqj504



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3wk5tBpAss






]

[BroMikey]

Clarence,
I have my shop running on solar. So I setup a temporary test through the inverter with a small input and output ground grid. Have a smart charger connected to the captor wound around two car coils with the four cfl(4 foot) lights on over my work bench. Very surprised to see it produce enough to power the smart charger and keep the lights on. Will run it for some time and just learn. Why? Because that's the love for this endeavor!!!

Thanks and stay the course,
wantomake

Okay this is what I found, car coil captor wound? Running a CFL? It sounds like you wound some 4awg wire around the outside of the car coil metal canisters (No resistor in one post)

Either way I love new experimental data. yer makin history dude.

[BroMikey]

So far can only keep cfl bulbs burning and not lose any battery power.
But it does self power and maintain the battery bank voltage.

Tomorrow will get the input rods placed in the middle of the output rods. I had the input rods 10 - 15 feet away. With test found more amps when in the middle as Clarence posted.

Hope this helps.
Sorry much typing,
wantomake

Awesome dude, I have high hopes for you man. You are inputting 20,000volts. You never told us what your captor transformers were made of did you?

Or are you running another setup from the web? I will go back to see what you posted again. So far all I remember was you did some work like HITBY did and are using the mini pole pig setup?

Is this right? then to a charger?

Whatever it is sounds pretty good if it charges a battery and burns power at the load side.

Mikey

[clarence]

Lovin seeing you on the case

Hey Shylo,
That's exactly how I intend to keep my setup and add to it as it proves to deserve upgrading. I purchased different wattage bulbs to find the right size for my setup. I found my smaller unit does produce small amounts of amperage and I had to match it with smaller load. That's besides running the battery charger.

I have 12" galvanized nails as rods, different lengths of copper 1/2 " pipe , the best is of course the 8' copper coated rods.

For wire to the rods I use the ground from some old house wire. But will upgrade later. I fabricated connectors from left over pieces of copper.

As I started building then I understood what Clarence stated in his posts.

There's not much return from the grid and won't power the charger until you get enough grid to supply that power. Little things make a difference.

The car coils are doing better than I thought. After getting the voltage up to certain amount the charger started running and the amps increased as grid was inlarged. So far can only keep cfl bulbs burning and not lose any battery power.
But it does self power and maintain the battery bank voltage.

Tomorrow will get the input rods placed in the middle of the output rods. I had the input rods 10 - 15 feet away. With test found more amps when in the middle as Clarence posted.

Hope this helps.
Sorry much typing,
wantomake

Hello wantomake,

get after it Sir - Get after it!

You are looking GOOD Sir!

you are definitely going to be hero to many members Sir.

Respect and BEST!

Clarence

[wantomake]

smaller version

Hey Shylo,
That's exactly how I intend to keep my setup and add to it as it proves to deserve upgrading. I purchased different wattage bulbs to find the right size for my setup. I found my smaller unit does produce small amounts of amperage and I had to match it with smaller load. That's besides running the battery charger.

I have 12" galvanized nails as rods, different lengths of copper 1/2 " pipe , the best is of course the 8' copper coated rods.

For wire to the rods I use the ground from some old house wire. But will upgrade later. I fabricated connectors from left over pieces of copper.

As I started building then I understood what Clarence stated in his posts.

There's not much return from the grid and won't power the charger until you get enough grid to supply that power. Little things make a difference.

The car coils are doing better than I thought. After getting the voltage up to certain amount the charger started running and the amps increased as grid was inlarged. So far can only keep cfl bulbs burning and not lose any battery power.
But it does self power and maintain the battery bank voltage.

Tomorrow will get the input rods placed in the middle of the output rods. I had the input rods 10 - 15 feet away. With test found more amps when in the middle as Clarence posted.

Hope this helps.
Sorry much typing,
wantomake

[Minsky]

If the captor was connected as shown in the B&L patent you would be correct. The captor would be a capacitor. As Clarence has it connected with the end opposite the ground rods connected to the neutral line then it is acting as a transformer.

I do like your method of determining the phase of a transformer primary to secondary. Simple and easy to do. Thanks for that idea.



Carroll

I'm looking at Clarence's replication. The load is not hooked to the secondary in any way shape or form and thats where it differs from a transformer. It's pretty obvious if you ask me.

There are other differences too but this is sufficient to show it's not a transformer.

Good luck with your experiments.

[BroMikey]

Hi All, Can the whole thing be reduced to 10percent?
I have an variable transformer with a dial , run it at 12vac ,less rods and smaller, instead of 8' long, 9.6in long?
Will the variac run off a 300w inverter without blowing it?
I had 2 , now I only have 1 inverter , and I don't want to lose it.
Thanks artv

Hi Shylo

I have thought about that. The first thing my mind went to was the depth of the grounding rods. If you are reducing by 10X of grounding rods you are not dealing with the same type of soil. This is called TOPSOIL.

If you want to try LED's or other input sources I recommend using at least a 4 foot rod system. Also use a double transformer or don't call it a captor.


The variac might change a modified sinwave inverter wave to look better.

The lower voltage potential will lessen your gains by 100X minimum.

Using the full 120vac won't hurt the inverter as long as you don't load it up to far. I think Clarence told me something like 6 watts to run both of his toroids on idle. That ain't much.

Just do it the same way you see it, just run a 100 watt light bulb for a load.That way less rods for less power.

That way you can see how long your system works off the battery PLUS collected electrons from the earth.

You know how to run joule counts.

Mikey

[shylo]

Hi All, Can the whole thing be reduced to 10percent?
I have an variable transformer with a dial , run it at 12vac ,less rods and smaller, instead of 8' long, 9.6in long?
Will the variac run off a 300w inverter without blowing it?
I had 2 , now I only have 1 inverter , and I don't want to lose it.
Thanks artv

[BroMikey]

@Level

One more thing. I have the inverters over here with the horse power to
start up my frig as it delivers the full lock rotor amps of 1200 amps, but if I only use one battery it won't start up because asking a small battery to give 1200 amps on start up every time is a bit much.

Having done all of these tests also helps me to realize that Clarence little battery is getting some huge help from somewhere.

Just thought you might like to know that.

Also if I run my deep cycles let's say a full 200 amp hour battery set weighing around 250 pounds of batteries I still need to put a starter type battery or marine battery in parallel with those, to get it to start up right.

And Clarence gets his to start with a single battery? This shows me from my experiences that extra energy is entering his system with only a single puny battery to run THAT many devices.

Check it out sometime, fire up even a 400 watts device for longer than 5 minutes. I used 5 minutes because I don't want you to ruin your plates.

[BroMikey]

@All

Just finished doing a test to see the rate of discharge of a 12v 75 Ah lead acid battery over a 12 hour period, with the battery, a 750W inverter, and an intelligent battery charger (3 stage - 4A, 12A, 25A), with no captor transformer setup used, all connected in a self looping arrangement.
The starting open circuit voltage on the battery was around 13.3.
The battery charger was set to automatic mode.

After starting up the self loop, the battery voltage quickly dropped to about 12.9V and continued falling from there over the next half hour.
After about a half an hour the battery voltage settled around 12.7V and stayed there for about one more hour.
Now about 1 1/2 hours into the self run test the battery voltage started to very slowly drop from there.
After the 12 hour self loop period was elapsed the battery voltage was reading 12.42V (while still under load). So it was a drop from about 13.3V (unloaded) to 12.42V (loaded) after 12 hours of self looping (with no captor loop).
The battery charger maintained a very steady charge current of around 1.6A to 1.7A on the battery for the whole 12 hour period, after the initial first settling down period of about 15 minutes.
The output power from the inverter, which was powering the battery charger, measured between 35W to 36W for the whole 12 hour time period. This was measured using a plug-in wattmeter. The inverter case was quite warm (around 40C or 104F degrees) for the whole 12 hour period.

It is interesting to me that the battery charger did not increase the charge current through the whole 12 hour period. I don't know why it did not change.
Edit: Did a bit of more investigating with the battery charger. The battery charger will have a charge current of around 1.6A to 1.7A if it sees a battery of about this size as around fully charged. It looks like the battery charger detection circuitry was not detecting the dropping voltage on the battery due to way things were connected in or whatever. The battery charger is not an expensive type, so it may have some glitches in its detection circuitry.

As the battery continued to discharge, the intelligent battery charger charge current should have been slowly ramping up, but it remained steady at 1.6A to 1.7 A for the whole 12 hours.
When I tried this same test with a smaller approximately 30 to 35 Ah battery earlier, the charger began to ramp up its charge current to the battery within about 10 to 15 minutes, and the charge current continued to ramp up higher and higher within the first hour. This smaller capacity battery had discharged to about 12.35 volts within one hour in self loop mode with the same charger and inverter.

Has anyone else tried this test? If so, what are your results?
The idea here is to give something quantitative to compare to before adding a captor loop arrangement into the self loop.

We can only imagine how many minutes your battery would last running a frig.
The 35 watt load you ran was like running a night light.

Put a man size load on it watch the nightmare begin for your battery. A 25amp run and a 1200 amp start up load. That little box won't start it up.

So you could run a couple of fans or enough lights to equal 200 watts.

Your battery is going to have a stroke.