Basic Free Energy Device

[voltan]

hi tishatang.can i ask,how do you run the first alternator.is it modified or do you drive it with a 3 phase controller?
cheers.and good work.

[Tishatang]

Hi Voltan

I modified the alternator in a couple Ways. First I chose Denso 90 amp units. These have two windings in parallel per coil. This gives an option to wire the two windings in serial and get 24v out. I had to isolate the bridge diode and bring out the wires independently. I eliminate the voltage regulators and use 6 volt batteries for the rotor voltages.

Then I use Model Car RC unit as the controller. I go into exact detail of my build on a forum. For you and others that are interested, go here:

http://open-source-energy.org/index.php?topic=1647.0

Chris

[voltan]

thanks mate. i'll check it out.while you got a bifilar wound motor this scheme might be worth a look.it's great for looping spike recovery back to the source.you energize 1 strand and the slave strand provides the partial refund.simple and effective. this is only for 1 polarity.3 phase ac would need a dual polarity version,if it's doable,times 3.i've been wanting to try it in a motor instead of a solid state blocking oscillator for ages.i'm going to put a bifilar winding on the rc motor,mainly to see how it goes with a quarter of the dcr,but i will explore this as well.
cheers.

[jettis]

Hi all,

I thought this configuration was special but after some more testing with capacitors in place of the midsection batteries and finally just straight hooking the motors between the high voltage and low voltage sources it turns out to just be a series motor configuration with recovery to the small side battery. It is all in the name of learning and trying to learn about this tech. Perhaps I should learn to tone down the names of my threads.

If anyone has tried this let me know if you have found the same results as I have. Sorry about the confusion.

-Dave Wing

[Tishatang]

@voltan
The main thing is to get a stable reliable system. A lot of my time was spent to get to that stage. Mainly because I was using parts not designed to work together. After that stage, you are in a position to try your experiments.

I have not yet been able to get resonance on a alternator by itself. Think because the inductance is too small. It would take a huge amount of caps to find resonance at say 170 Hz. So, you have to add inductance coils.

An RC motor can spin much higher than my alternators. Maybe you would be in the 400 Hz range? This would reduce the amount of caps needed for semi resonant state. Also, I don't know how much spike return you can collect before it affects the motor or resonance state? This is where your experiments come in.

Chris

[voltan]

hi tishatang.so far i put 1 winding across 2 opposite stator poles.about 200-240 turns of 34 awg.i see about 240hz unloaded.with 7 cycles/revolution it's only about 2000 rpm.have seen 393 hz with the circuit in post 390 at 13.2v.it was torquey too.the inductance function on my dmm stopped working a while ago,but with that amount of turns it should have some.with a bifilar wind of the same wire and quantity the dcr should drop 3 quarters parallel connected.not sure how inductance would compare.presumably it will go faster driven on the bifilar winding.the bigger rc motors have high power density for there size.when there is a prop in front there is plenty of air cooling and the runs are generally short.long runs on a bench would call for derating the power handling.
i read your thread.nice work.i haven't been able to play or download any videos off there unfortunately.i downloaded the 135 page pdf on there.that looks like a very informative read.
your right.you probably can't have much resonance and spike recovery at the same time,presumably they would inhibit if not cancel each other.also your 3 phase controller function might be affected by the recovery scheme.
like you,without a scope it's a lot of guesswork, head scratching and trial and error, but it's good clean fun.
cheers

[altrez]

Hello All,

I have been working on an idea for a few weeks now. It came to me after watching the Tesla Switch DvD. So I am going to share it with the group.

My 3 battery setup the first part of the BFED is also going to be my pulse controller for the pulse motor.

With each pulse of the motor my batteries will pulse switching on and off with high tight spikes in a logical sync with the motor to keep the RPMs constant. I feel with this setup the run times will be huge.

I know this works and anyone can test it with just a few parts and a function generator. It is very cool to watch even an unmodified razor scooter motor run while using almost nothing from the system. With better winding I have no doubt in my mind with this setup you are getting more energy out then in.

So to recap I have put this on the bench and tested it. You are taking the 3 battery system adding a pulse generator to the system to pulse the batteries and also the motor.

Please ask if you have any questions.



-Altrez

[Tishatang]

@voltan
Going by your description, it looks like you have added 200+ turns of fine wire on top of two orig windings of RC motor? If so, be careful because you have created a rotary transformer! RC motors have small number of turns, maybe less than 20? So, if the motor is being run on say 12 volts, the added coils are like the secondary of a step up transformer. You might have over about 150 volts on the ends of those added windings?

Also, if you are planning on using these windings as input to your motor, it wont work if it is a brushless 3 phase motor. In this case you need three poles wound, each pole being 120 degrees from each other.

With what you have, you can experiment capturing the spike and observing effect on motor. Just watch out for possible high voltage as explained above.

Chris

[Tishatang]

Hi altrez,
Good work. Fresh look at things can lead new frontiers.

About a year ago I hooked up the 3 battery system to de-sulphate some batteries. It was easier than trying to build bedini style pulse motor.

I was using a bench meter to check voltages and for some reason I pushed the button to switch to Hz. I was surprised to see a reading in the low KHz range. I assumed it was the switch rate of the small DC motor brushes? Later, I switched in a diff battery to be re conditioned. I checked the Hz and was surprised, it was different. So, I assume this low KHz rate is related to the crystalline structure of the battery.

I recommend you check your system and see if you also find a natural resonance going on. If so, try and use that freq, or a harmonic of it, for your pulse input. It stands to reason, it might produce better results?
Hope this helps.

Chris

[Turion]

Cooking

altrez,
I think you will be really pleased with what Matt lays out concerning the razor scooter motor once folks have wound it up and watched it run. I know he doesn't want to show too much too fast, but you are definitely walking down the right path, although we might be running parallel. I know Matt is out in the cold fighting the weather to keep his crop from freezing, so he won't be here much for a couple days!

Dave

[voltan]

hi tishatang.to clarify,i stripped all the factory windings off. first i tried awg 29,but the dcr was .4 and i couldn't supply enough current and things got hot quickly.there were a couple of runs at 18v(ozito battery pack instead of unregulated multi voltage 200ma plugpack),when it started to speed up after 20-30 seconds,and went a bit feral.i shut it down because the transistor was past the hot stage.that was with just the tip122 switching,hfe of 1000,rated 5 amps with a large heatsink.i put it down to thermal runaway.maybe the timing was lousy until t1 got really hot and that improved the timing or something like that.then i changed to 8.4 ohms dcr after post 387.
bifilar 34 will be about 2 ohms paralleled.that might be a better balance of low resistance and sustainability.less resistance,more resonance,in a tank circuit.more current out of resonance,less current in resonance,through a tank circuit.after reading all 135 pages,(except for the last bit!), in the pdf tagged in your thread, i'm a bit dizzy, but better for it.now i'm excited too.it has my endorsement as recommended reading.amongst some lofty concepts there are some real gems of insight into resonance and how and when to tap it.definitely something for everyone who builds.

http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/Advanced%20RV%20Research%20and%20development.pdf

i drive the rewound rc motor using 1 or 2 mini isolation transformers that sense bemf off the same winding being driven,and switch 1 or 2 transistors.all my notes on it are in posts 382, 387, 390 and 394 if your interested.

[wantomake]

progress and question

Hello to All,
I rewound the my1016 per Matt's instructions and connected it as a generator to the shaft of a stock my1016. Used 2x 50 watt 12vdc bulbs as load on battery #3. The stock motor connected to terminals of #3 and #1 as the basic setup Dave showed. The modified motor leads connected to a fwbr the to battery #2.

Ok that was the basic setup and it did start charging #1 and #2 for the first time ever so I made a video with my cell phone. Was the rewound motor to be used as generator or drive motor? Or both?

I then did something wrong. I turned it off, connected the conventional car battery charger to each LA battery to top off their charge. Started the testing again and the batteries started discharging instead of charging. My thought is this: the long run of the system charged the batteries with a radiant/aetheric charge, then the conventional charger took away that radiant energy??
Am I chasing the wrong squirrel up the wrong tree?

Confused and curious,
wantomake

[Turion]

One of the keys to the 3BGS was ALWAYS balancing the load on the motor with the load on battery 3.

Sounds like you hit the nail on the head with your setup. And YES...going back and forth between standard charge and radiant can mess everything up.

As I understand it, you used Matt's rewound motor as the GEN and a stock motor as the drive motor. You connected the output of the gen to battery 2, which is the one that usually loses charge, and had loads on battery 3. The only question I have is the same as Matt's...was batt 3 a good battery or a bad one.

Thanks for the post. Matt has been looking at the best possible winding configuration for the MY1016 as a generator, and this isn't it (I don't think) so you my get even better results when you flip the two motor positions. Worth a try. But if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Dave

[Tishatang]

Hi Voltan

Yes lots of good info in that 135 page pdf. Also, I don't remember if I posted this doc. This doc referenced a lot in my research. This is good summary of var techniques OU and Radiant Energy with additional links within it. Only 66 pages this time.

http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/RE-OU-v6_1.pdf

Most all the RotoVerter stuff applies to my rig. My problem is the alternator coils are very small inductance at .2mH. Have yet to get any parallel resonance. My problem is time and energy. Last 3 days repairing shed roof damaged in storm.

Chris

[wantomake]

quick answer

What did you use for a generator? Was the third battery a dead battery or a good battery?

Matt

The generator is the larger version 36 volt my1016 rewound with trifilar 24 awg wire and coupled to a 24 volt stock my1016.

Battery #3 is a good one but has a low voltage of 10 volts +-.

Yes I did switch the two to see the difference on amp draw, but the stock didn't generate but 7.8 volts of dc. During the time of the charging and testing different arrangements the original setup was lost.

Also I have a pwm but don't want to use it. I smoked the last one by using it on this 3BGS. Maybe connected it wrong or something.

Thanks and any advice is welcome. Matt hope you got the harvest in.
wantomake