Basic Free Energy Device

[Turion]

Another test

While you are waiting for parts, another thing you should try, just for your own information, is to put two motors in series in the 3BGS setup. You can put up to 3 motors in series. More than that won't run.

[altrez]

I hooked up the second motor as a generator last night and noticed that it only put out around 4 volts DC when used in the Tesla Switch configuration. I then used just one 12 volt battery charged to 13.6 volts and the generating motor only put out 10.8 volts.

My next test was running the gen at 24 volts and the output was right around 18 volts DC. One thing I did notice was it seemed to already be DC coming from the Motor? I tested both motors and they both did the exact same thing. When I test AC output it was below 1 volt?

I charged a cap from the DC output directly from the motor and it worked great. So I am a bit confused by that. My next plan is to order a 6 inch sprocket with 66 teeth for the main motor to help get more voltage out of a the Tesla switch configuration.



-Altrez

[altrez]

So a bit of an update. I got my second motor in today so I can now hook up the generator part of the system. I have added a small solid state Bedini charger to the mix.

My setup is layed out like this. Tesla switch with 3 5ah batteries. Two razor motors motor 1 connected to motor 2 with a small drive chain. Motor 2 setup to generate AC power and then rectified into DC. Solid state Bedini charger hooked to rectified output charging 1 12 volt 5ah battery.

I dont have any numbers yet but will post some hopefully tonight with pics of the setup.

I have not experienced any longer run times with the Tesla switch as of yet but I think having a load on the Motor will make a difference.

Once battery #4 is fully charged then I see two options run a load on it and leave it in place still being charged Or swap it with battery 1 from the Tesla switch. I might try putting a regulated load on battery #3 to see if it can run a load while battery #4 is charging.



-Altrez

[altrez]

You'll do better with a Dead AGM battery. Some stores have them, you can find them in dead toys at the land fill, also alarm companies often have them from back up lighting.

@ altrez
That the line that commons the input and output grounds so they can pass current to the third battery. You need it.

Matt

Thanks for that info Matt. The specs show a cap in place as well. Is that not needed?

Still no luck on the AGM dead battery hunt. Every battery I have found seems to still work. I might try to kill a battery myself and see what happens.



-Altrez

[altrez]

Sulphated batteries are always being thrown out by car and motorcycle repair garages. Ask around the back. they'll be glad to see the back of them (or at least, one of them).

I have lots of old sulphated batteries the issue is they all instantly start the motor spinning even if they only charge up to 4 volts.

-Altrez

[Mark]

Almost any auto repair shop or parts store will have old battery cores. I'm not sure about motorcycle batteries but you will have to pay between $5.00-$8.00 for the car battery cores.

[wrtner]

I still can't find a bad battery to test the 3BGS but hopefully will soon.

Sulphated batteries are always being thrown out by car and motorcycle repair garages. Ask around the back. they'll be glad to see the back of them (or at least, one of them).

[altrez]

Update:

I just placed an order for a second motor with a drive chain so I can tie the two motors together. Everything will be in next week so I can start testing. I am going to work on some switching for the Tesla switch configuration.

I still can't find a bad battery to test the 3BGS but hopefully will soon. I also plan to buy a 3rd motor to rewind once we get the specs for the pulse motor.

Things are taking shape on my end with voltage logging, temperature logging and RPM logging on the motor. I need to get a good way to log current next and start adding more channels to the graphs.



-Altrez

[altrez]

That module I posted is NOT intended to
@altrez

You cannot hold me to this one as I have not used that part. I used one similar and it worked out. I build my own now.


Matt

Whats the line at the bottom for? It looks like a jumper between the -in and - out?

Thanks Matt.

-Altrez

[altrez]

I have found a pretty much free DIY Dyno that I wanted to share with you all.

https://sites.google.com/site/simpledyno/home

Seems like it would work good for basic testing and graphing.

-Altrez

[altrez]

This is a pic from tonight's experiments. I will post more tomorrow.



the drops are when I moved the battery's.

-Altrez

[altrez]

Matt,

Thank you for the post. Thats the way I thought it would work as well after looking at the PDF you posted.



-Altrez

[altrez]

Although I pointed out that the goal of the test your doing is to charge batteries while running a load over time, you could regulate this circuit with a rather expensive regulator:
JCK3012S12 XP Power | 1470-2005-5-ND | DigiKey Part#
http://www.xppower.com/pdfs/SF_JCK30.pdf DataSheet

I drew the regulator differently in an earlier post.

So what regulating will do for you is the load will perform as expected. The bulb will actually run at 20 watts.

Now the bulb will only have the difference between the banks. So at 14 volt in the charge battery and 24 volt in the discharge you only have 10 volt of potential. The regulator will prevent that. You will always have 12 volt at your load. And really it won't make that much of a difference in the overall performance. In fact charging may improve as your potential at battery will always be higher than the actual potential difference.

I just wanted to point that out while I had the chance.

Cheers
Matt

Thank you so much for taking the time to post that. Please forgive my ignorance but I rely heavily on schematics. How would I wire that into the system?

I do not mind to spend the money at all. It's a great thing we all are working on!



-Altrez

[ren]

Hi Matt,

I was thinking over your earlier diagram which used a buck boost module as the regulator. I originally thought the purpose of that was to boost voltage in a way that the 24v razor motor would see 24v, rather than the difference between it and the charging battery. As Im sure you know, the 24v motor will only turn so well at 1/2 its intended input. Still useable none the less. But wouldnt it make more sense to use a 12v motor? Or is this solved through the rewiring of the 24v motor? Also, the boost module you linked seems to only put out 30watts. How does this effect our 200-300W motor? Or does your mod decrease amperage?

I just noticed that the 24v 120W scooter motor I have is made by unite, which I believe is the same company making the my1016. I have two of them so I will pull one apart and see what its like inside.

@ Turion. Sorry to hear about the bad news. Hope you can get it all sorted and join us again shortly.

Regards

[altrez]

Hi All,

Just started my next test. I am using a 20 watt 12v Lamp as the load. The battery's are all good but #3 is not charged. I am logging position 3 and will do 1 swap to see what happens.

I plan to bring position 3 up to 14.5 volts if it will go that high.

-Altrez