My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[DadHav]

Hey Dad Hav...

You did not stir nothing up...everything is just Fine and Dandy...



The Peter Lindemann Video is much better and complete information than the link you have posted above Dad Hav...

Regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO, It's my own problem that I don't like the wheel and scale part of the tests, but everyone has to be on the same page as you describe. The setup I tested had great merits with precise control over the load but there where variables that I didn't have proper parameters for so I never pursued it further. It shows that the MasterBlaster guy has a good head on his shoulder though. I think he was explaining what I set up.
There's some nice videos popping up.
J

[wantomake]

Hello to All

To All,

Replication is such a wonderful teacher !!

As I posted earlier on the 16 pole treadmill motor, that I was going to rewire it as others have said to do. Well just was curious if it would even work as it was. And built i back and wow - with 18 volt battery it has amazing torque!!!

I know now the feeling one gets when at last a build is done close to perfect.
The two front brushes move independently of each other. Back two on cap are adjustable together. So can fine tune if figure out how.

Is it best to use two DMM?

thanks to all,
willgettomake

[JohnStone]

I still follow your posts but am very busy with earning my life.
Sorry, nothing to share just now but some questions:

1. I found a vacuum motor from Vorwerk Tiger 250 with two turbines at the end. Nice long shaft and perfect brush holders fitting for both sides.
Unfortunately 22 poles!
UFO: I am not aware of a winding scheme in this thread for 22 poles. Can we apply a cheat: 21 poles + one to skip?

2. Where to add the neon exactly for detecting HER ? Generator side?

3. Witch direction to adjust the brushes: rotation direction or counter rotation direction?

4. Hi Seth! Here you are! Please examine my idea for torque measurement? Can it work for us?
rgds John

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Redrichie

Turion,
Seeing as I have not yet built one of these motors, nor spent any money as I'm sure you have, this may be out of line. But you seem very caught on the amperage and and torque measurements. Don't get me wrong, I'm for measurements and testing and scientific method as well. But man, hook that thing up to a generator for godsakes. See how much it can generate attached to a motor in reverse or an actual alternator, or a homemade generator. Everyone has already stated its a torquey bastard. So why not put it through an actual test. What's gonna happen when your measurements (not that hey will). Show it is or isn't enough torque......to do what you think it may or may not do. Jesus if its claiming to make the 3bgs actually work and charge up batteries while its running and outputting extra who cares how much torque it has. Don't overlook the Forrest for the trees buddy. I think you have he best replication. So put it to its actual use.
Sorry I've been wanting to say this 1000 pages ago. Lol.

Hello Redrichie,

That is a great idea...however, loads have to be balanced out...the same way a 7-9 Kw Generator Head will not be successful with just a One Stroke 5 HP small gas engine...and so on...There is always a Balance between Machines...so it is not just hook up and watch and conclude...I wish it will be like that though!...but unfortunately it ain't.

The Car Alternator (I wrote about it before) is a reap off ...its Stator is a Mule to be turned on when it is excited...that is why it gets to work on Automotive Engines......However, like I said before...it is all about balancing...so there are smaller Alternators from smaller Gas Engine compact cars...as there are also the 75 Amps Cadillac Alternators designed for the 32 Valves North Star Engines...so it also depends...
I think Turion's Machine could turn on a 2000 Watts small Generator Head...not bigger though...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

...However, like I said before...it is all about balancing......

As far as I understand the matter it does not count how big the genereator is but how much we load it. Adding a variable voltage regulator to the generator we can decide how much load we put into a battery in order to get balance. Alternatevily we can control the load via a variable field current to the rotor. Just bild your own custom made variable regualtor for the alternator.
Please correct my opinion if wrong! Im eager to learn!

[Ufopolitics]

Heyyy John!!

I still follow your posts but am very busy with earning my life.
Sorry, nothing to share just now but some questions:

1. I found a vacuum motor from Vorwerk Tiger 250 with two turbines at the end. Nice long shaft and perfect brush holders fitting for both sides.
Unfortunately 22 poles!
UFO: I am not aware of a winding scheme in this thread for 22 poles. Can we apply a cheat: 21 poles + one to skip?

Here John...I build it for Prochiro before...That is a great motor!!

[IMG][/IMG]

2. Where to add the neon exactly for detecting HER ? Generator side?

After Diodes at Generating Side...connect a Meter there to detect Hertz...before and after diodes...and watch HER...
See Diagram below

[IMG][/IMG]

3. Witch direction to adjust the brushes: rotation direction or counter rotation direction?

Witch direction?...get the road to Symmetry... ...just kidding... am glad you are back!
The adjustment depends on your Brush positioning John...to move from there towards or against rotation...it depends basically on how close, past or over you are related to the Stators Bisector Line and your interacting Pairs Center Angle...as it also depends on the design you are playing with...

4. Please examine my idea for torque measurement? Can it work for us?
rgds John

I will take a look later John...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[s e t h]

...
4. Hi Seth! Here you are! Please examine my idea for torque measurement? Can it work for us?
rgds John

hi JohnStone ...i was thinking more like if in your diagram you toss out the hard drive and join all 3 of your yellow dots as a single point....but as i say i know nothing about testing torque unfortunately

[Ufopolitics]

You are correct John...however...

As far as I understand the matter it does not count how big the genereator is but how much we load it. Adding a variable voltage regulator to the generator we can decide how much load we put into a battery in order to get balance. Alternatevily we can control the load via a variable field current to the rotor. Just bild your own custom made variable regualtor for the alternator.
Please correct my opinion if wrong! Im eager to learn!

Hello again John,

You are right John...it depends on the load we apply...and the load must be -at least- "a bit" below the specified Max Kw Output (Surge)
Now, when it comes to a Car Alternator...it does work with your voltage regulator...that is the circuit that triggers the fields on-off...However, Alternators are a waste (from my point of view) they generate 12 -13 Volts Max, at very High Amps...what could you run "stable" with that power, except a charger for the battery and some 12V lights?...Because running an Inverter there is going to still limit your output as far as Amps go...
The way I see it...in order to solve many Housing problems...the way to go is through a Generator Head that would be suitable to our needs in Wattage Output Demands...and still not overworking either machines...

However, however...if we are building Asymmetric Motors that generate in a certain percentage...Who is impeding Us to build a Dedicated Asymmetric Generator to work in a very stable mode with its Cousin prime mover... ?...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Guys...

hi JohnStone ...i was thinking more like if in your diagram you toss out the hard drive and join all 3 of your yellow dots as a single point....but as i say i know nothing about testing torque unfortunately

@ John Stone,

That looks very...interesting...lol
Where we could get "lost" is in the Spring Tension Measurement...

@Seth,

To measure Torque (Foot-Pounds is the Standard American Measure) We need to know displacement (Foot) and Force (Pounds)...As in POWER, We need Ft-Pds/Seconds...which is Torque produced at a given Speed...
You can not join all three yellow dots...because you will not have a given Lever Size...or a Circumference...which will render the Displacement measurement required.
And I am talking about Electric Motors...only.

And We need two Scales, just because of the Acceleration Angular speed from the "other side" of Wheel at work (which in perfect measurement it should be equal to zero)...and it could get really complicated to explain from here on... because we will fall into angles measurements at their critical Tangential forces, plus the vectors originated from there...so let's "Keep It Simple"...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Wantomake!

To All,

Replication is such a wonderful teacher !!

As I posted earlier on the 16 pole treadmill motor, that I was going to rewire it as others have said to do. Well just was curious if it would even work as it was. And built i back and wow - with 18 volt battery it has amazing torque!!!

I know now the feeling one gets when at last a build is done close to perfect.
The two front brushes move independently of each other. Back two on cap are adjustable together. So can fine tune if figure out how.

Is it best to use two DMM?

thanks to all,
willgettomake

Hey Wantomake!

Those are great news !!...now could you show some pictures to see related to brushes alignment?
You have a 16 pole so you are using Turion's set up?
Is it four brush-four stators?
Thanks

Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

@ John Stone,

That looks very...interesting...lol
Where we could get "lost" is in the Spring Tension Measurement...
....

You're right.
Then let's remove that bloody spring from the belt trace and add it to the HDD in order to lift it. While the belt will not elongate much the angles will not deviate at differnt spring loads.

BUT: We will not need to measure any spring force! It can be adjusted deliebrately in oder to meet a certain Amp or Volt point. The meter will measure in any case the force at the shaft directly with the ratio defined by the total lever ratio being defined by:

• radius (lever) of the shaft
• lever at belt to HDD
• lever HDD to meter

This ratio is a CONSTANT and ever will be! :-)

I choose the HDD in order to get a precision, highest level, lowest cost lever sytem.

BTW: Thanks for posting the 22 pole pic :-) I will go ahead.

[mklimesh]

entire bulb is swirling with white/purple

UFO,

I have found that as I adjust my frequency to find her the neon will be orange until she comes. When she is strong the entire bulb is swirling with white/purle and no orange.

Bob

Bob

Did you happen to have a scope across the ne-2 when you got the swirling white/purple? 2 times yesterday I got the swirling white/purple, the second time I had the scope across the ne-2 and it's different when you get it.

Mike Klimesh

[Turion]

redrichie,

If you had messed with this as much as I have, there are times when mine has been working right, and times when it hasn't...times I didn't think there was anything to this, and times when I felt like there was. But listening to the motor run , seeing how many amps it takes to start, and how many to run...these are all things I need to know to be sure I have something. If it has more torque, but also pulls more amps do I really HAVE something?? It depends doesn't it?? That's why accurate measurement is critical. I have run a stock motor as a generator using both my modified motor and another stock motor. So I have done what you suggest...just for my own information. But when I post the data here for others to make a judgement about UFO's work, I want to be darn sure it is as accurate as it can possibly be.

The test I ran this morning was SUPPOSED to be a standard torque test. Using a 1 foot long bar with the spring scale on one end of it, and on the other end a bushing with a set screw that can be tightened onto the motor shaft. Tighten the set screw until the drag on the motor shaft is enough to cause it to pull 6 amps, and then ready what the scale says is the torque on the one foot long shaft that the motor is attempting to spin because of the resistance of the tightened set screw. I tried it on the standard motor, and got NO reading on the digital spring scale. So much for that test.

Dave

[prochiro]

JohnStone

Hi John
So you want to become a coil winder. Repeat after me..... I love to wind coils..... I love to wind coils..... I love to wind coils..... I love to wind coils. This is the chant I used to get through the 44 half coils on my vacuum motor. I used 24 gage on the rotor and 19 gage on the stators. 22 seems to be my number as I would 11 loops on each half coil for 22 total for each set. I found out what packing the wire into the groove with a pop-sickle stick was all about. Not much room in those vacuums. I hope to have mine running this weekend. I took the fan out as mine has a open frame housing. Kirby vacuum free energy UFO machine....... Good luck with your project.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Dave...

redrichie,

If you had messed with this as much as I have, there are times when mine has been working right, and times when it hasn't...times I didn't think there was anything to this, and times when I felt like there was. But listening to the motor run , seeing how many amps it takes to start, and how many to run...these are all things I need to know to be sure I have something. If it has more torque, but also pulls more amps do I really HAVE something?? It depends doesn't it?? That's why accurate measurement is critical. I have run a stock motor as a generator using both my modified motor and another stock motor. So I have done what you suggest...just for my own information. But when I post the data here for others to make a judgement about UFO's work, I want to be darn sure it is as accurate as it can possibly be.

The test I ran this morning was SUPPOSED to be a standard torque test. Using a 1 foot long bar with the spring scale on one end of it, and on the other end a bushing with a set screw that can be tightened onto the motor shaft. Tighten the set screw until the drag on the motor shaft is enough to cause it to pull 6 amps, and then ready what the scale says is the torque on the one foot long shaft that the motor is attempting to spin because of the resistance of the tightened set screw. I tried it on the standard motor, and got NO reading on the digital spring scale. So much for that test.

Dave

Hello Dave,

A simple question...Have you measured how many Amps are you getting at your Output terminals?

Regards


Ufopolitics