My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[ajaya999]

Dear Sir,

Something is DEFINITIVELY WRONG there, IF Motor does not even "attempt" to move with 12V 7.5 Amps.

It was making a little noise, but not rotating.

However, according to your description of increased power...it seems your motor is timed to react on ATTRACT MODE and VERY FAR APART from Stator Bisectors...so it requires a HUGE amount of power to generate enough magnetic field strength on Pairs as to "decide" to start moving...you were lucky after all...IF Machine would have been on "TOO CLOSE REPULSE MODE" that would lock up...you would have burnt the whole thing.

Solution, go over the settings...Bisectors of Pairs "at work" (energized) versus Stator Bisectors...where are they at?...How far apart?...could you draw even a rough diagram and shut a picture of it?...JUST the Pairs Energized, Stators Position and of course Brush/Element position.

I will check again sir. let me test it one more time. I promise I'll not burn it. but now I'm realising that I must not have energised the right pair.

Kumar, please, do NOT KEEP adding more projects, more complexity...if the FIRST ONE is NOT COMPLETED YET!!

sure sir. will go one by one.

update you with the results and also with a rough sketch.

regards and Namaste

kumar

[Ufopolitics]

Noted Sir.

Will follow the LM317 diagram. In my last built I followed the on that was discussed in Patrick's book.

Anyhow I'll build the one that you gave now. And as the total circuit that I have is OK, then I'll redo it sir and report back.

But my concern is 12v Mov. I'm not getting it here. In case I omit it ( being ready for one more fry ), then how to change the circuit?

Will not forget keeping diodes

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

Kumar please read "slowly and easy..."

Read again my post above

See the part that reads...

The 12V MOV is just a 12V rated Varistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor=MOV) it is there to protect 555 and low voltage circuit.

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Sir,

Namaste.

it has been a long time I made my posting here in (y)our lovely ( love towards the angel ) thread.

I have not yet completed the complete fibreglass Hybrid Motor-Generator.

But meanwhile I completed my first 15-pole 1 hp machine.

Photos and videos I'll post in a day or two.
But I'd like to share my experience with it.

This motors was originally having an rpm of 1440 and the rotor current required as per manufacturer's specs is 230v@4 amps and stator current required is [email protected] amps

while rewinding the armature for (y)our machine, I fully followed the design given by you.

I used 28SWG and took care to see that the ohms are at 2. The number of turns on each side of the coil was coming to between 23 and 25.

I didn't touch the stator. Just used the one given by the manufacturer.
The power given to it was 230v @0.4 amps

Hello Kumar,

Great, Two Ohms is fine...I will answer here all related Machines, not the 555 controller, we already did that...

I didn't use any pwm circuits in this run.

I connected the brushes with first 12V 7.5 Ah battery. Armature didn't move. Then I tried with 2 batteries of the same config. (2X12v 7.5 Ah). It started rotating at 600 rpm. But I was able to stop it with my hand. Barely no torque.

WRONG APPROACH KUMAR!!

You NEVER, EVER, if Motor does NOT MOVE...Keep adding more and more power to it!...EVER!

First thing to do is to check TIMING SETTINGS AGAIN...and AGAIN versus Diagrams. I am sure you are Firing the Pairs at the very wrong positioning related to Stators...and Stators are NOT the issue, cause you are using SAME power as factory...and have not mess up with its windings.

Something is DEFINITIVELY WRONG there, IF Motor does not even "attempt" to move with 12V 7.5 Amps.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 36 volts. The rpm went up to 1200. I was not able to stop the armature with my hands. When I tried, it got slowed down but didn't stop. I connected a dc bulb 12v 90watts
on generator side. the bulb lit with a minimum brightness. The rpm came down to about 700.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 47 volts. The rpm went beyond its design and jumped to more than 1700.

This time I didn't dare to try stopping it with my hands.

I used a pulley belt to check the torque.

I applied my full power, pulling the belt connected to the shaft. rpm came down to about 300-400, but it didn't stop.

This time I recorded the readings. Without any load the stator was reading 230v and .03 amps. The armature reading 47 volts and 1.3 amps .

When I tried to stop with the pulley belt, the armature current dropped to 1.1 amps and even I was able to see it at 0.9 amps many times.

Then I connected the bulb and it lit with full brightness. Here the rpm came down to 1200. I tried stopping the armature with the pulley belt again. Though the armature slowed down, I couldn't stop it. The bulb connected lost its brightness, but I was able to see the light in broad day light.

I ran it continuously for about 30 minutes. The batteries started reading 24 volts. In the beginning the voltage was 47v. I stopped the machine. Put the batteries to rest. In about 30 minutes I found the voltage again going up to 42 volts. This was about 3 pm and again when I checked the voltage in the night at around 10 pm I found it back to 47v. Then I didn't try for a week. Checked the voltage after a week and found it at 46v and after one more week yesterday I checked the voltage and it was 44V.

This is a VOID Test results...of course you will get it to run with more and more power...but NOT the right way though...you could have burnt the whole rotor within...did you mind reading temperature on rotor coils after testing?

However, according to your description of increased power...it seems your motor is timed to react on ATTRACT MODE and VERY FAR APART from Stator Bisectors...so it requires a HUGE amount of power to generate enough magnetic field strength on Pairs as to "decide" to start moving...you were lucky after all...IF Machine would have been on "TOO CLOSE REPULSE MODE" that would lock up...you would have burnt the whole thing.

Solution, go over the settings...Bisectors of Pairs "at work" (energized) versus Stator Bisectors...where are they at?...How far apart?...could you draw even a rough diagram and shut a picture of it?...JUST the Pairs Energized, Stators Position and of course Brush/Element position.

Meanwhile I built the design of by Netica - in complete wood. I tried winding the stator as directed by you. I used 19 SWG and 23 SWG bifilar coil. I went layer by layer winding and got about 25 layers with a resistance of 1.7


I started reading the MMTRE thread. I tried making a circuit. I couldn't get 12v MOV here. So I tried the one discussed in Patrick's book. NTE mosfets are not available for us here. I tried with IRF840. Somewhere something went wrong sir. I fried the mosfet At LM317 output I got 12V. But when I tried powering the circuit, the voltage was coming down to 4 at LM317 output and batteries voltage of 33v also was showing 23v or even less. DOn't know where I went wrong. when i disconnected the circuit, the batteries were showing 33v.When I connected it, the batteries volatge was showing at 23 or less.But I continued powering it, of course, without connecting the coil and found small fire of fist size near a mosfet and found it burnt completely. I will try again and report you.

Later I tried feeding the wound stator with direct batteries. But the armature didn't rotate even a cm. I think I wound the stator in a wrong way. I looked into your video ASYMMETRIC SINGLE COIL FIBERGLASS STATOR CORE and also netica's video. In Netica's I found the overlap on coil was only on top on one side and the other side and on bottom two sides the coils divided equally - no overlap. In yours, the overlap is coming on both sides on top.

My coil is having a overlap on top on one side and another overlap on bottom on the other side( diagonally). The second side on top and diagonally other side on bottom, the coils were divided into two. I kept a compass in between the stator and found that the poles were in correct mode - one north and one south. I reversed the battery polarities and the coil polarity also changed. Don't know where it went wrong.

Now I am trying to rewind the same and also rebuild the circuit. Will report to you with pictures and videos asap.

Sorry for such a lenghty post sir.

@
Hi Kogs,

Thanks a lot for your support and congrats on your two wheeler. I too will make it Kogs very soon. Otherwise my son will not leave me. He'll keep saying "Kogs uncle did it and you couldn't." You are troubling me a lot

Kogs I started learning electronics. Already burnt a mosfet but will make it Kogs. It's a very tiresome journey. But no way. We need to travel only to reach the goal. I know you will make it. And me too Kogs .

But can't resist to say "Great Kogs".

Regards and Namaste.

Kumar

Kumar, please, do NOT KEEP adding more projects, more complexity...if the FIRST ONE is NOT COMPLETED YET!!

That Motor is Under-Performing based on the Factory Spec's...

One thing at a time friend...just one...there is an old Italian saying..."Piano, piano va lontano..." (Easy, easy and slow you will get far away...)...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

Hello Kumar,

I looked at circuit (again) and I believe you have the "updated" diagram, where from D3 it goes to Source (-)

Now, there was also an update in the LM317 Voltage regulator , please compare below:

[IMG][/IMG]

I noticed on your previous post you wrote:



You can NOT operate the whole 555 circuit at 4 Volts.

Please redo Voltage Regulator LM317 circuit, according to above Diagram. And it should be ABOVE 12V even...on the measurement spot...close to 13V

Then forget about the IRF740...The 840 is supposed to be superior capacity right?...so, that is not your problem.

And yes, do NOT forget again to use the reverse Diode between Source-Drain protection...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Noted Sir.

Will follow the LM317 diagram. In my last built I followed the on that was discussed in Patrick's book.

Anyhow I'll build the one that you gave now. And as the total circuit that I have is OK, then I'll redo it sir and report back.

But my concern is 12v Mov. I'm not getting it here. In case I omit it ( being ready for one more fry ), then how to change the circuit?

Will not forget keeping diodes

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

[Ufopolitics]

Dear Sir,



Namaste.

Thanks for the immediate response.

In fact I used IRF840A for the circuit. As you said, I must have done some big mistake

When I shared about the fried circuit with my sister, she was telling me " don't worry. unless you kill a few patients (of course unknowingly), you cannot become a good doctor"

IRF740 I can get here.

But sir, in the discussions in the MMTRE, the discussions were on over the deleted image files in the first several pages. It is difficult for people like me to follow them without the support of images. Somehow I was able to go forward and started understanding the discussions.

Anyhow I'll take Kogs help in the circuit.

Regarding the diodes I have UF5408 with me sir. But I didn't connect them between S and D . I read many times you were asking to do so. This time I will sir.


@kogs,

please upload the image of the correct 555 circuit of UFO. Sorry to trouble you as I know you are fully involved in making your bike.

Thanks in advance Kogs.

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

Hello Kumar,

I looked at circuit (again) and I believe you have the "updated" diagram, where from D3 it goes to Source (-)

Now, there was also an update in the LM317 Voltage regulator , please compare below:

[IMG][/IMG]

I noticed on your previous post you wrote:

At LM317 output I got 12V. But when I tried powering the circuit, the voltage was coming down to 4 at LM317 output and batteries voltage of 33v also was showing 23v or even less. DOn't know where I went wrong.

You can NOT operate the whole 555 circuit at 4 Volts.

Please redo Voltage Regulator LM317 circuit, according to above Diagram. And it should be ABOVE 12V even...on the measurement spot...close to 13V

Then forget about the IRF740...The 840 is supposed to be superior capacity right?...so, that is not your problem.

And yes, do NOT forget again to use the reverse Diode between Source-Drain protection...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

Dear Sir,

Hello Kumar,

Please compare the "Drain_to_Source Breakdown Voltage" ...in IRF540 it is rated at 100V, and in NTE2397 is 400V. That could be a reason...but, looking at the Current it can handle...it does more than 2397, either continuous or pulsed.

See if you could get IRF740
It has higher Drain to Source Breakdown of 400V

So, to me, I believe there could be something else wrong on your circuit...did you check the errors that diagram had from the start?...There is some connection either missing or wrong...ask Kogs, He knows.

The 12V MOV is just a 12V rated Varistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor=MOV) it is there to protect 555 and low voltage circuit.

Now, I hope you have an Ultra-Fast Diode like NTE576/UF505 between Source-Drain (S)--->l---(D)

When I have a chance, I will respond on your previous post on tests.


Regards


Ufopolitics


Regards

Namaste.

Thanks for the immediate response.

In fact I used IRF840A for the circuit. As you said, I must have done some big mistake

When I shared about the fried circuit with my sister, she was telling me " don't worry. unless you kill a few patients (of course unknowingly), you cannot become a good doctor"

IRF740 I can get here.

But sir, in the discussions in the MMTRE, the discussions were on over the deleted image files in the first several pages. It is difficult for people like me to follow them without the support of images. Somehow I was able to go forward and started understanding the discussions.

Anyhow I'll take Kogs help in the circuit.

Regarding the diodes I have UF5408 with me sir. But I didn't connect them between S and D . I read many times you were asking to do so. This time I will sir.


@kogs,

please upload the image of the correct 555 circuit of UFO. Sorry to trouble you as I know you are fully involved in making your bike.

Thanks in advance Kogs.

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

[Ufopolitics]

IRF540 Vs NTE2397

Dear Sir / Team UFO,

Namaste.

I checked my fried out mosfets - irf840a. in all of them gate and drain shorted

can you pl look into the datasheet of irf540n at

http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.irf.com%2Fproduct-info%2Fdatasheets%2Fdata%2Firf540n.pdf&ei=u7wlU6ePIPGXiAfUt4CADw&usg=AFQjCNHYBdbkFHaOR-mz5oc_76e_5cpvhA

and let me know whether this can be used in the circuit in the place of nte2397?

And I'm not able to get 12v mov to complete the 555 circuit. In case I go forward, what adjustments are to be done in the circuit diagram?

regards and namaste

kumar

Hello Kumar,

Please compare the "Drain_to_Source Breakdown Voltage" ...in IRF540 it is rated at 100V, and in NTE2397 is 400V. That could be a reason...but, looking at the Current it can handle...it does more than 2397, either continuous or pulsed.

See if you could get IRF740
It has higher Drain to Source Breakdown of 400V

So, to me, I believe there could be something else wrong on your circuit...did you check the errors that diagram had from the start?...There is some connection either missing or wrong...ask Kogs, He knows.

The 12V MOV is just a 12V rated Varistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor=MOV) it is there to protect 555 and low voltage circuit.

Now, I hope you have an Ultra-Fast Diode like NTE576/UF505 between Source-Drain (S)--->l---(D)

When I have a chance, I will respond on your previous post on tests.


Regards


Ufopolitics


Regards

[ajaya999]

mosfets

Dear Sir / Team UFO,

Namaste.

I checked my fried out mosfets - irf840a. in all of them gate and drain shorted

can you pl look into the datasheet of irf540n at

http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.irf.com%2Fproduct-info%2Fdatasheets%2Fdata%2Firf540n.pdf&ei=u7wlU6ePIPGXiAfUt4CADw&usg=AFQjCNHYBdbkFHaOR-mz5oc_76e_5cpvhA

and let me know whether this can be used in the circuit in the place of nte2397?

And I'm not able to get 12v mov to complete the 555 circuit. In case I go forward, what adjustments are to be done in the circuit diagram?

regards and namaste

kumar

[Ufopolitics]

Nessie's Wiring...

G'Day UFO

Yes, I will run single wires off the motor (just like you did with Imperial) and switch the connections at dashboard to get output in series...or separately excited (feed input) each one.
In your 1000W Yes I Do have the same arrangement as in Imperial, meaning four brush/four stators.

Hello Kogs!

Great...let's proceed...

Do not forget to Install from the MAIN POSITIVE CABLE TO BATTERIES A KILL SWITCH
I was intending to have a horn button switch that needs to be pressed for the motor to run, if the button is released then the motor will switch off

I would rather use a COMPLETE Mechanical Switch for Kill SW, meaning, either a Blade Switch or one of those Key Switches that when twisting Key it mechanically separates or join HEAVY DUTY contacts, they use this type to prevent stealing of Small Vehicles like Jet Ski or Scooters, etc,etc...I installed one on my X-Treme Bike. It is rated 100 Amps, in order to guarantee contacts will NOT stick/burn.

Make sure you have EASY REACH ACCESS to this Switch while driving, like I have it on Xtreme below on my left hand...I never had to use mine except to turn it off/store...but you never know.

[IMG][/IMG]

Make sure that you test ON BENCH FIRST all this connections (if you want to do them, of course) BASICALLY the FIRST GEAR , in order to test your controller stress to "take it" since it will do, reverse very high spikes.

Should I have a large cap between the motor and the Fet controller

Typically ALL EV's Controllers have a Cap Bank built within assembly, a small bank of like 8 or 10, 1000 uF Caps rated normally at 100V...This Cap Bank is mainly dedicated to avoid "starvation" of power at radical accelerations, while absorbing higher reverse charges at sudden deceleration times...like a "Buffer" between Source Batteries to demand from Motor.

You could have different ways to run Nessie with this set up...

1- Using typical Two set of Brushes for Input and Two set for Generator (series connected) that could be sent to a Cap Bank recovery Tank...then back to batteries.
2-Accelerating or Turbo Boosting Nessie by feeding ALL Four Gates based on FOUR SWITCHES as GEARS, ADDING ONE BY ONE at a time...First Gear, Second, Third and Fourth...No Output/Generator
2a- This type of electronic switching/gears will give you different "Modes" to run Nessie, Independently from the Controller Acceleration Feeding from Batteries:

First Gear: On 1st gear you need high torque/high speed to brake inertia forces, and like in a standard vehicle, it is NOT intended to use it for too long...In your case First Gear would be ALL Four Gates at once.

Second Gear: 2nd gear would be Three Gates, while the not fed Gate would be retro-feeding back to source. I would call this Gear the "PASSING GEAR"

Third Gear: Two Gates (what is our typical connection of 2+2) meaning two on Input, Two on Output. And this Gear would be a "STANDARD CRUISING GEAR"

Fourth Gear: would run just ONE GATE...while you are getting Three Gates to feed Cap Bank/Batteries. This Mode would be like an "ECONO DRIVE" and more likely could be used down hills or flat land after reaching a fair speed with previous three gears...

It is just like driving a standard, manually shifting gear vehicle...

Only thing you will need to get...are Four nice and heavy duty High Amperage rated switches, like 50 Amps/48V...BUT Double Throw switches, having basically a Two Position from a middle input to Two connections, Up and Down...so when connecting one the other disconnects...So, when not feeding/Input from Controller, it would connect to Cap Bank.

Switches could also be with a Neutral Position at centre (Three Stages) where NO CONTACT to ANY will just disconnect Gate completely from Input or Output I will chase some up

I would like to do the above and will need help to draw a schematic first
what size cap bank would I need and how do you deliver the energy back into the batteries or perhaps they may be in parallel with the batteries

Here is the Diagram Friend...

[IMG][/IMG]

First, understand that "Shifting" through Switches 1,2,3 and 4 is COMPLETELY INDEPENDENT from Acceleration Circuit through Throttle/POT..It is like a typical farting gas vehicle......you could set your shifting from 1st gear to fourth...while accelerating SHOULD BE DONE AFTER Switches/Gears are FULLY ENGAGED/CLOSED to prevent "JUMPING"!!

ALSO remember it is NOT recommended to switch ALL Four Switches at same time...but following a "STEP SEQUENCE" (1-2-3-4) while depressing throttle...could be short in timing between switching, but must be stepped ALWAYS...this is to avoid a huge dump from all four corners to Rotor.

Diodes D1, D2, D3 and D4 are preventing reverse spikes to dump on Caps from Motor, and I would use UF505/NTE576 or higher rated.

D5 between Batt and Negative Cap Bank is there to prevent Battery to dump charges back to Caps...only "one way" from Cap to Batt.

A Mechanical Kill Switch will prevent from Battery drain when Nessie is completely turned off...besides the safety issues...plus also turning off S7 to disconnect caps from batteries. On Diagram switch (S7) disconnect Caps from batteries at time to store Nessie...or later on we could replace switch by a "smart" circuit that would turn off when batteries are fully charged...

The Cap Bank is like you have said, parallel to Batteries (understand this is NOT the Controller Cap Bank, but the Battery supply using Regen from our Asymmetric Machines Gates)...it should be rated according to your Battery Source size, always greater than, I would use -at least- a 100V Cap size bank, and I would go above the 1000 uF...say to 2200 uF or greater...could consult Sir John Stone on this to correct me if am wrong.

The Contactor or Solenoid COIL MUST BE RATED, exactly, to the Battery Bank size, the Diode D6 must be 200V/3A and the PRE-CHARGE Resistor must be 1K Ohm and 10 Watts Minimum. This is done to avoid huge dump on Controller Cap Bank/sensitive tronics...

So...the Gears would be:

First Gear ALL Switches 1,2,3 and 4 ON...turning them on in a fast sequence while depressing accelerator slowly to make a smooth take off...and not Ramping it up too abrupt. This Gear is JUST intended to brake Inertia...and SHOULD NOT BE ON FOR A LONG TIME!

Second Gear, turn off SW4 leaving ON SW 1,2,3 (I have the same Pair sequence as Imperial here, but in your case the 16 Poles 1000W would be different, but results are the same...Four Gates)...So this would be your "passing gear".

Third Gear would be SW 1 and SW 2 ON...While SW3 and SW4 would be dumping to Cap Bank...Your Normal Cruising Gear after you have used Second to gain enough Speed Impulse.

Fourth Gear ( ONLY SW1 ON) could be used on down hills or flat straight line roads, after desired driving speed has been reached.

REMEMBER to ALWAYS DEPRESS Throttle when shifting Gears, then accelerate ONCE ENGAGED/ON...just like the "Play" between Clutch and Accelerator on a Manual/Stick Shift Vehicle...otherwise you could add damage to your commutator elements.

I could implement the same for my bicycle 250w motor as the original unmodified motor was not quite strong enough to start without pedalling.

AS I am still waiting for the parts for the brakes I did not clean my workshop instead yesterday I set about making the mudguards and to day I am finishing them off (another day of sanding I have no fingerprints now)
Great friend, My video director is looking forward making those videos.


Kindest regards to you my friend


Kogs chomping at the bit

Kogs, remember to conduct a BENCH TEST first on this connections...or -at least- lifting Nessie's Driving Wheels OFF the GROUND (properly jacked up in stands) ...then take Nessie on a "stressful Run"...and check all temperature everywhere possible, mainly FET, and Motor Coils/Brushes.


Regards Friend, and any questions/doubts let me know.


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

Hi Kogs,

G'day ajaya999;252163

You can buy fast RDS Cool Mosfets here
I am using these and they are fine

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00
------------------------------------------------------------
[email protected]

Address to
Betty

My Your name here

Ian Koglin told me I could buy from you

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00

I would like to purchase 20 pieces delivered to my address

Your address here
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Kindest Regards
Kogs

Thanks a lot for the support. I stay in India Kogs. Keeping in view the further future requirements that will arise for the components once we start having a mass following - seriously Kogs - I am trying to use the mosfets available here in India. In fact IRF 840a is having an RDS(o) at .85 ohms against .55 ohms of NTE 2397. But I read UFO saying NTE 2397's RDS (o)at .022 ohms several times. This .55 ohms is as per the data sheets. Rest all are ok.

I must have shorted Gate and Drain I don't know as I read UFO saying that happens. Let me check again. If I meet with success with IRF840a, there is nothing like that. I will try for a couple of times more. Then definitely I will go for what you suggested. Now I'm working on Bob's/ Mad Scientist's circuit using LM339. I'll complete it soon and post the progress.

Kogs, your effort of making a document for my 15-p machine is not wasted. Thanks a lot for it. The machine is running wonderful. I need to try to run it on AC as well as UFO was telling it must become a universal type motor once winding is done.

I am also going to connect it with a flywheel and a car alternator (14v 120Amps) very soon (earlier I built that complete set up to try Chas Campbell system). Let's see what all we can make out of it Kogs.

I completely put a deaf year towards the test results at Imperial.

Thanks and Regards

Kumar

[iankoglin]

G'day ajaya999;252163

You can buy fast RDS Cool Mosfets here
I am using these and they are fine

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00
------------------------------------------------------------
[email protected]

Address to
Betty

My Your name here

Ian Koglin told me I could buy from you

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00

I would like to purchase 20 pieces delivered to my address

Your address here
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Kindest Regards
Kogs

[ajaya999]

I am not out sir and will never

Hi Sir,

Namaste.

it has been a long time I made my posting here in (y)our lovely ( love towards the angel ) thread.

I have not yet completed the complete fibreglass Hybrid Motor-Generator.

But meanwhile I completed my first 15-pole 1 hp machine.

Photos and videos I'll post in a day or two.
But I'd like to share my experience with it.

This motors was originally having an rpm of 1440 and the rotor current required as per manufacturer's specs is 230v@4 amps and stator current required is [email protected] amps

while rewinding the armature for (y)our machine, I fully followed the design given by you.

I used 28SWG and took care to see that the ohms are at 2. The number of turns on each side of the coil was coming to between 23 and 25.

I didn't touch the stator. Just used the one given by the manufacturer.
The power given to it was 230v @0.4 amps

I didn't use any pwm circuits in this run.

I connected the brushes with first 12V 7.5 Ah battery. Armature didn't move. Then I tried with 2 batteries of the same config. (2X12v 7.5 Ah). It started rotating at 600 rpm. But I was able to stop it with my hand. Barely no torque.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 36 volts. The rpm went up to 1200. I was not able to stop the armature with my hands. When I tried, it got slowed down but didn't stop. I connected a dc bulb 12v 90watts
on generator side. the bulb lit with a minimum brightness. The rpm came down to about 700.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 47 volts. The rpm went beyond its design and jumped to more than 1700.

This time I didn't dare to try stopping it with my hands.

I used a pulley belt to check the torque.

I applied my full power, pulling the belt connected to the shaft. rpm came down to about 300-400, but it didn't stop.

This time I recorded the readings. Without any load the stator was reading 230v and .03 amps. The armature reading 47 volts and 1.3 amps .

When I tried to stop with the pulley belt, the armature current dropped to 1.1 amps and even I was able to see it at 0.9 amps many times.

Then I connected the bulb and it lit with full brightness. Here the rpm came down to 1200. I tried stopping the armature with the pulley belt again. Though the armature slowed down, I couldn't stop it. The bulb connected lost its brightness, but I was able to see the light in broad day light.

I ran it continuously for about 30 minutes. The batteries started reading 24 volts. In the beginning the voltage was 47v. I stopped the machine. Put the batteries to rest. In about 30 minutes I found the voltage again going up to 42 volts. This was about 3 pm and again when I checked the voltage in the night at around 10 pm I found it back to 47v. Then I didn't try for a week. Checked the voltage after a week and found it at 46v and after one more week yesterday I checked the voltage and it was 44V.

Meanwhile I built the design of by Netica - in complete wood. I tried winding the stator as directed by you. I used 19 SWG and 23 SWG bifilar coil. I went layer by layer winding and got about 25 layers with a resistance of 1.7


I started reading the MMTRE thread. I tried making a circuit. I couldn't get 12v MOV here. So I tried the one discussed in Patrick's book. NTE mosfets are not available for us here. I tried with IRF840. Somewhere something went wrong sir. I fried the mosfet At LM317 output I got 12V. But when I tried powering the circuit, the voltage was coming down to 4 at LM317 output and batteries voltage of 33v also was showing 23v or even less. DOn't know where I went wrong. when i disconnected the circuit, the batteries were showing 33v.When I connected it, the batteries volatge was showing at 23 or less.But I continued powering it, of course, without connecting the coil and found small fire of fist size near a mosfet and found it burnt completely. I will try again and report you.

Later I tried feeding the wound stator with direct batteries. But the armature didn't rotate even a cm. I think I wound the stator in a wrong way. I looked into your video ASYMMETRIC SINGLE COIL FIBERGLASS STATOR CORE and also netica's video. In Netica's I found the overlap on coil was only on top on one side and the other side and on bottom two sides the coils divided equally - no overlap. In yours, the overlap is coming on both sides on top.

My coil is having a overlap on top on one side and another overlap on bottom on the other side( diagonally). The second side on top and diagonally other side on bottom, the coils were divided into two. I kept a compass in between the stator and found that the poles were in correct mode - one north and one south. I reversed the battery polarities and the coil polarity also changed. Don't know where it went wrong.

Now I am trying to rewind the same and also rebuild the circuit. Will report to you with pictures and videos asap.

Sorry for such a lenghty post sir.

@
Hi Kogs,

Thanks a lot for your support and congrats on your two wheeler. I too will make it Kogs very soon. Otherwise my son will not leave me. He'll keep saying "Kogs uncle did it and you couldn't." You are troubling me a lot

Kogs I started learning electronics. Already burnt a mosfet but will make it Kogs. It's a very tiresome journey. But no way. We need to travel only to reach the goal. I know you will make it. And me too Kogs .

But can't resist to say "Great Kogs".

Regards and Namaste.

Kumar

[Cornboy 555]

Hello everyone, i may be extremly out of line here, but please don't forget who Imperial electric Motor company's main customers would be.
They seem to have shown some real enthusiasm, with the UFO kit,
and it is a way of keeping a handle on us.

Just don't forget a handle on anything, can be used to tip it out.

Thinking out loud, and don't give a ---- who's watching,
Best Regards to you all, Cornboy.

[Midaztouch]

Hi Kogs & Team

Our motor has been received by Imperial. It was the end of the financial quarter. Also, they are preparing for the release for their spring line up. The head engineer said that they are extremely busy at the moment but has assured me that our motor will be tested when time permits. Remember, our motor has many configurations that need to be tested and it's very time consuming. Please be patient. I will release all information as soon as I get it.

@Team

The above statement basically still stands. But, yes, I consulted and then consented with Ufo. Originally I had mailed Ufo and told him that releasing the poor results could be a learning opportunity for the rest of us even though the tests were inconclusive.. Using a DC power supply has had some adverse effects on our motors. I had my motor tested a few weeks ago and we used a DC power supply. The sparking at the commutators was tremendous. My motor must be rebuilt also. UFO, Dana and I came up with a few conclusions.

This is part of the e-mail I sent Imperial after the poor test results:

Reasons:

You having similar sparking, that's makes 2 for 2 with sparking using a DC power supply.

In the past I asked my team, "Why did it have heavy sparking!?"....

We speculated a few things:

A.) UFO Team member Quote:
"Depends on the DC Power Supply Current Limiting (Amps) they have regulated at...if they have a huge 100 Amps C.L setting (Current Limit), our Machine will literally "swallow" all those amps and that is why such high sparking.
The Batteries I was showing Tests on video are not even full size Car or Golf Cart Batteries...but smaller and rated 35 Amps/Hour.

B.) Wires crossed

C.) Motor wants to regulate the amps itself. It does it perfectly with batteries.

D.)We can only use batteries.


My thoughts:
If you "feed" it more amps than it needs, it sparks excessively or not enough amps it will not perform well.

From that point, "a day late and a dollar short", I sent them all of the diagrams and vids as possible.(Thanks Kogs! You vids saved our *ss at the last moment!) Imperial was ready to send the motor back! After reviewing the videos and diagrams Imperial decided to give us one more chance.

The results were soo bad that the torque was less than a half a pound! We all know that something is terribly wrong with that. So, for the sake of peace, I agreed to keep things quiet to avoid the BS.

Hopefully, Dana's motor is not damaged and they can perform accurate tests. If it is damaged, we will send another motor, go there, rebuild, etc... Please sit tight. We're working things out.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

If something can go wrong it will. Sorry to hear the news. Second motor will go easier?

Hey Sam,

This human errors are normal, the positive side to look at it...is to make a Victory out of Failure results, by learning...We just need to know exactly where and what were the errors ...then go from there...

Lack of communication was the main issue here, for what I can see.

Another Motor could be made and sent over...Or maybe mine...or maybe I will go there myself and show them how to make it themselves, using their own parts and equipment...going over details with the Engineers there on a nice Digital Screen...many great things could happen Sam...

Like Zorg said...

Fifth Element - If you want something done, do it yourself - YouTube




Regards


Ufopolitics