Use for the Tesla Switch

[nvisser]

At last a photo of the par. to series charger according to Stevan's plans.
I used only 5 large transistors and 4 shotkey diodes.
The charging is impressive.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

At last a photo of the par. to series charger according to Stevan's plans.
I used only 5 large transistors and 4 shotkey diodes.
The charging is impressive.

Very nice Vissie.

Jeff

[nvisser]

Thanks Jeff
Check your skype for the layout

[StevanC]

At last a photo of the par. to series charger according to Stevan's plans.
I used only 5 large transistors and 4 shotkey diodes.
The charging is impressive.

any chance You share the config?

Stevan C

[scratchrobot]

@scratchrobot,
I have to admit, i barely see anything on the scopeshots You posted?

Could You please play with light some more (please?), and replace the photos?

I have strong reasons to believe You have missed the difference (i might be wrong here) as it is subtle and I can't realy tell on Your photos?

?

Stevan C.

You are right the photo's are not very clear, I wil try to make some better shot's of the different cap's. The cap's I used are MKT? You mentioned foil, don't know if these are the right one's?

@nvisser, I like your setup, looks very profesional
Did you build it of the circuit you posted earlier?

I'm also very impressed with the charging, the battery I am charging was realy dead, maybe had 2 Volts on the meter and wouldn't light a LED.
The first time I tried to charge it it would't take anything so I pulsed it with very fast small pulses on the first time, then it would charge, now after 4 times charging/discharging it is holding it's charge much better. It's now at a resting voltage of almost 12V. When I charge it realy starts to boil, even after the first pulse, but the boiling gets lesser every time I discharge/charge. I also tried charging a good battery and it doesn't boil like the old one but charges good.

Almost forgot, I have seen the light

Light

scratchrobot

[EMCSQ]

@scratchrobot

Question from the less experienced : Is this ONE wire going to the light bulb, indicating the cold electricity phenomena, or just high frequency resonance reply from the battery?
I would be interested in your plans.

Greetings BK

[scratchrobot]

@scratchrobot

Question from the less experienced : Is this ONE wire going to the light bulb, indicating the cold electricity phenomena, or just high frequency resonance reply from the battery?
I would be interested in your plans.

Greetings BK

No there are going 2 wires to the bulp instead of to the battery, just to see the short pulse, it's like a photocamera flash.
I do hope it's some sort of cold electricity phenomena

scratchrobot

[jerdee]

Almost forgot, I have seen the light
Light

Good Scrachrobot!!

Now take the lamp and load it across charging battery at the same time the cap discharges!

You’ve now increased the load requirements in conventional EM thinking. But you’ve increased the COP considerably! This is opposite behavior right?

You’ll notice the output amp and voltage meter will increase considerably.

Negative Resistance!!!

Like I said before...you need to mess with the load values to really see what is going on here.

Have fun trying this everyone.

Jeremy B

[StevanC]

Good Scrachrobot!!

Now take the lamp and load it across charging battery at the same time the cap discharges!

You’ve now increased the load requirements in conventional EM thinking. But you’ve increased the COP considerably! This is opposite behavior right?

You’ll notice the output amp and voltage meter will increase considerably.

Negative Resistance!!!

Like I said before...you need to mess with the load values to really see what is going on here.

Have fun trying this everyone.

Jeremy B

Jeremy,
please help me understand?

Just how would this behaviour be different to connecing the same lamp shunted battery to a comon car generator?
Would it not the same way increase amp-draw?

Why is this different here on the TS?

What I see different is that we where thought by JB the battery need as little 1% of energy to replenish it's charge (pendulum SG) in certain parts of the SoC curve.
He teaches us the battery is "submerged" into a something and we just seem to kill the link by our common day circuits?

Stevan C.
P.S.
any more of stainmetz?

[nvisser]

any chance You share the config?

Stevan C

See post 2513 for diagram
Here is a short bad video of it. Excuse the back round noises!! Somebody with a bad cough!!
YouTube - Par. to series Cap pulsar

[scratchrobot]

I made some new scope shots with an USB scope I borrow from a friend.

No Caps:nocaps.jpg 47nf:47nf.jpg 470nf:470nf.jpg 1uf:1uf.jpg

Still can't see much difference?
And not looking like Bedini's shot's: Bedini.jpg

@Stevan, Any suggestions?

Also tried shunting the battery with a bulp: video

Tomorrow I have some more time and then I want to charge a battery of 2 battery's in series and switch them to do some measurements to see if there is any gain

scratchrobot

[StevanC]

See post 2513 for diagram
Here is a short bad video of it. Excuse the back round noises!! Somebody with a bad cough!!
YouTube - Par. to series Cap pulsar

my reply regarding Your config

But You seem to be satisfied?
Could we conclude it's in the right handling of the "trio" on the output?

Now i will ask You run three more tests and try as hard as possible to quantify and match the four (Your current and my 3) configs?


1. Try clip-wire short the negative "input" BJT and test run it on ever lower input voltage?
2. Try clip-wire shorting the negative output BJT and lookup the amount of energy recovered from the switch, while also ever decreasing power supply voltage x2
3. Clip-short both of the two negative BJT (=negative bus topology) and compare?

This request also applies to all other builders be it Nvisser's mod ( ) or my mod ( ) of the TS?


What You find ?

Stevan C.
P.S.
beware of loops on cables

[StevanC]

scratchrobot,
Your scopeshots are much more clear now.

unfortunately I still can't but agree with You there is not much difference amongst them.

oscilloscopy is a fine art and we should threat it as such

Besides improving Your image visibility, it's time to examine closer the leading edge. On Your shots we see the amplitude and see a partial "back swing" which indicates to me there is a amount of capacity on the input: Do You use DC or AC on input?

Besides that, i would like to see the leading edge expanded over at least two vertical lines (I'm only interested on the left "edge" of the spike), could You be so kind and "zoom" in for me?

Also I would appreciate a lot If You would "edit in" the Vertical and horizontal division values (V/div and sec/div) so we all can read out the values?

We are almost there buddy,
Stevan C.

[scratchrobot]

To be honest I never used a scope before
I don't even know if I have connected it the right way
It took me an hour to find the pulse on the first scope

But I wil try to figure out and make some better shots
I am using a DC on input and think I can see the backswing you are talking about
I will try AC on input and the other mod's

scratchrobot

[StevanC]

To be honest I never used a scope before
I don't even know if I have connected it the right way
It took me an hour to find the pulse on the first scope

But I wil try to figure out and make some better shots
I am using a DC on input and think I can see the backswing you are talking about
I will try AC on input and the other mod's

scratchrobot

scratchrobot,
You are already doing a fairly decent job
only few more "toucheups" and we could deliver the verdict re: LED-capacitors

Stevan C.

QOTD:
"On Thanksgiving Day all over America, families sit down to dinner at the
same moment -- halftime."