Use for the Tesla Switch

[nvisser]

Nvisser,
Are you using the SG chip?
You must balance the load between switches through a light bulb 3 amps or resistors and big ones, what diodes are you using? I hope big ones 25 amp or better.
JB

No. I am using the TL494 and the diodes I used were hopelessly to small.The light bulb loads were 6V 25mA. Also to small!!

Can I use 40A, 45v schotkey diodes that you find on the 5V rail in pc power supplies. MBR4045PT?

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Yes you can do not exceed the voltage.

No. I am using the TL494 and the diodes I used were hopelessly to small.The light bulb loads were 6V 25mA. Also to small!!

Can I use 40A, 45v schotkey diodes that you find on the 5V rail in pc power supplies. MBR4045PT?

[blackchisel97]

Question about Scalar Charger

Hello John,
I have a question regarding Scalar Charger. It seems that few of us are having problem to run SG chip really slow. I could only get mine down to 1Hz. I tried different caps but didn't find mine reliable with slow switching. I was using SG fix posted by you, while ago. That's not big deal, I can use something else instead. When you talked last time about SC you gave us idea to put 1mH inductor and bulb across, in series with battery positive. Could you explain what is the purpose of spike generated in this coil. What should we look for. I tried various inductors, air and with core,toroidal (20 -30 turns). Spikes were different and varied with frequencies. I think I have understanding what to expect from Scalar Charger (especially after listening to the recording generously shared by John.K) but this small inductor is confusing (for me).

One more; what about car alternator? there is a quite powerful bridge and can be salvaged from the junkyard very cheap. Just thinking about affordable replication for those "less fortunate" lol.

Thank you
Vtech

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Vtech,
I was only using that for an indication at the correct frequency, I do not use it in my circuit. You do not half to go that slow with the switch in the Scalar charger. I do not go that slow I very the frequency between 10 to 100 Hz . I'm still working on some of the problems with that switch so I'm with you. Sometimes I get it to charge like mad then I blow things. so I'm working on it also. I use the light bulb to see the discharge back to the battery. I take the light out after I think I have it tuned. yes you can use the diodes from it.
JB

Hello John,
I have a question regarding Scalar Charger. It seems that few of us are having problem to run SG chip really slow. I could only get mine down to 1Hz. I tried different caps but didn't find mine reliable with slow switching. I was using SG fix posted by you, while ago. That's not big deal, I can use something else instead. When you talked last time about SC you gave us idea to put 1mH inductor and bulb across, in series with battery positive. Could you explain what is the purpose of spike generated in this coil. What should we look for. I tried various inductors, air and with core,toroidal (20 -30 turns). Spikes were different and varied with frequencies. I think I have understanding what to expect from Scalar Charger (especially after listening to the recording generously shared by John.K) but this small inductor is confusing (for me).

One more; what about car alternator? there is a quite powerful bridge and can be salvaged from the junkyard very cheap. Just thinking about affordable replication for those "less fortunate" lol.

Thank you
Vtech

[blackchisel97]

Thank you John, It's great to have you around

Vtech

[nvisser]

Vtech,
I use the light bulb to see the discharge back to the battery. I take the light out after I think I have it tuned. yes you can use the diodes from it.
JB

John
When you take the light out. Do you run it without any load? Just a jumper in place of the bulb?

[nvisser]

Nvisser,
Make a Solar oscillator out of that or make a new one it will work much better. Just make an oscillator out of the sg circuit by reversing the trigger wire, then it will charge in the moon light. I do it all the time when I can see the moon. My lights are always on with that oscillator. Hook it up like the joule thief but use the SG coil with the resistor in the base circuit.
JB

John
Do I remove the base diode on the trigger circuit when I reverse the trigger wire?

[ren]

Ren,
If you use this put a reed in place of the Hall or use optical. Leave the 1K
also protect the hall positive voltage buy using a 470 resistor and a Zener diode to ground. That way you can never blow the hall out. Use this diagram only.
It's a fast little devil.
JB

Will do, Yes Sir!

I actually used this diagram to build the circuit for this window motor I built.

YouTube - Bedini Cole Window motor.

I had some problems with the mps8599, so I ended up using a MJE2955 instead as the triggering transistor. Will try again with the MPS.

I used a ss443a hall (24v) with a 12v regulator, dont know if this regulator will draw more current, but I never popped the hall when it was there. I will also try your resistor and zener suggestions.

** I found it ran with less current with the 2.2k resistor from + to the MPS's base. It still ran without it, but ran better with it in place. Didnt see it there at first glance**

Even with my clumsy build and lack of electrical experience I was able to get the amp draw real low considering. That was with domino sized timing magnets too.

Regards

[erfinder]

Questions about the Bipolar Circuit

Ren,
If you use this put a reed in place of the Hall or use optical. Leave the 1K
also protect the hall positive voltage buy using a 470 resistor and a Zener diode to ground. That way you can never blow the hall out. Use this diagram only.
It's a fast little devil.
JB

John,

I am a skeptic turn fan! Ren converted me.... I am fascinated by the power and simplicity of the bipolar switch I got it to work for me on my first try and have been hooked ever sense. I have two questions....

Is this switching method limited to your coil winding style, Ive built window and sg coils, and drove both with this circuit, can one use this switching method to switch other, "existing" motors, and expect the same effects, like operating outside of ohms law...ect...ect....Example...dc motors ect..ect...

Is it possible to add pulse width modulation to this circuit, I would like to have more duty and frequency control.

Thanks for dislosing the the zero force motor, I look forward to testing the the concept......


Ren your my boy!


Regards

[redcar1957]

108's

John B I thought that they were about the size of a 3055
Kev

[John_K]

Zero Force Motor

John K
Lucky you at 75 degrees. 7 Degrees here, think I will make a super conductor. Yes back to your question, The rotor has eight magnets on the rotor neos north pole. I think I said in the video I'm only triggering three times, because I did not have enough magnets. Using a 3020 t hall device the coil is a straight mono-pole coil solder roll about 2000 turns # 23 wire the voltage across the coil is about 3.2 volts not much, do you have a copy of the BI- Polar switch, if you do send a copy to Inquorate his Idea may work with that switch. Well I must have scared everybody off the mono-pole group, even Carl. I have a video of a solar charger I want you to see later using the Tesla Switch scare your pants off. I'm going to talk to Rick about you testing one. I have been very busy with this switch, ground current next. Then I will post.
JB

John, I got my ZF motor running once I figured out how to hook up the reed switch (thanks Carl!). Runs great for a small rotor (the 2" one we made for the wind trigger) with those tiny neos in it.
I get the same waveforms as yours, 350V spikes as well.
I only ran it with 4 timing magnets instead of 8 'cos I wasn't sure how the reed would handle it. It seems OK so I'll add the other 4 tomorrow.
It runs a little high on draw current but that's because the rotor is so small, so the dwell time is fairly high.
When I insert the iron rod, the rpm doubles and the current halves - amazing stuff!

Can't wait for the video, and it's the perfect time of year in AUS to test the solar charger. I've been looking forward to this one for a while.

Take care,

John K.

[ldissing]

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...tch-spike1.jpg

@JB.

I have hooked my scope up across the negatives of the batteries. There is a load on each side, right now, a 3.0V diode + 100 ohms in series which should max out at 4.5V (15ma current). I'm running at 0.5 (1/2) hz.

The waveform you have drawn looks very similar to mine, although, the voltage is not as high as yours. The positive side is only around 7 volts, but jumps up to 10V in a spike sometimes, other times it is just a hump...spike is like you've drawn. The negative side does not have the spike as yours does but it is at -10V all the time.

At a 50% duty cycle, or 100% depending on how you define it...i.e. no delay, the spikes seem to go away, but with 10% delay up to 90% delay, I do see the spikes.

Any advice for me?

Thanks,

Leroy

P.S. I tried running a led without the resistor and burned them up, so I needed a little more voltage sucked out of there, i.e. the resistors.

@JB,

FYI, this post relates to the 4 battery TS, utilizing 6 switching devices.


Did you have any thoughts about this post? I thought, we wanted to charge batteries without any current, but you are suggesting to use a 3A bulbs (what voltage) or huge resistors to balance out the two transistor switch. I'm using 4 transistors and 2 SCRs with small currents right now. Any suggestions for me on proceeding.

Thanks,

Leroy

P.S. Pretty soon we will have so many circuits, nobody will figure out which circuit(s) we are talking about.

[Murlin]

@JB,



P.S. Pretty soon we will have so many circuits, nobody will figure out which circuit(s) we are talking about.

No kidding...you guys are killin' meh...

I'm going to go through this whole thread and print out all the schematics and make a book....some good stuff in here...

Nothing to report here on my TS btw

so much to do.....so little time....

regards,
Murlin

[hherby]

Controlling frequency and duty cycle

[...]

Is it possible to add pulse width modulation to this circuit, I would like to have more duty and frequency control.

Thanks for dislosing the the zero force motor, I look forward to testing the the concept......

[...]

Erfinder,

The switching frequency will be dependant on the rotor speed. You could use less trigger magnets than rotor magnets for lower switching frequency as JB did where he had 8 magnets on the rotor but only 3 magnets on the trigger wheel. I have a few thoughts of how to vary the duty cycle of each trigger pulse.

Reed switch - bringing the reed switch closer to the trigger magnet will keep the trigger on longer and vice-versa especially if you use the rotor magnets to trigger the reed switch. Can be easily adjusted while motor is running.

Hall switch - if you use rectangular magnets mounted radially on the side of your trigger wheel, then you can position the hall closer to the shaft for a longer duty cycle. Can be easily adjusted while motor is running. I think I saw REN do it this way on one of his window motors.

Opto switch - using two notched interuptor disks, you can vary the overlap of the two disks to increase or decrease the opto on/off time. Disadvantage is motor must be stopped to change disk overlap without some kind of additional complicated mechanism. You could use a V notch approach and move the opto closer or farther from the shaft but the optos don't have much of a reach to them. I suppose you could use 2 opto's in the same trigger notch (fixed notch width) with some AND logic and then you could vary the distance between the pair of opto's to control the duty cycle (it would only be only as long as both opto's are simultaneously on).

I might sacrifice an opto by cutting it in half separating the ir emitter side from the ir detector side. Hopefully the bridge between the sides is only a plastic body on the 4 pin opto devices.

The reed switch will have the lowest switching cost compared to the hall or opto.

Hope this helps,
Alex

[hherby]

Tesla switch progress

Hey guys,
I temporarily put aside the scalar charger and tried the 4 battery switch using the hand drawn brandt circuit JB posted along with JB's SG PWM circuit. I powered the switching with a separate battery. I tried various loads (bulbs only) and different frequencies and duty cycles. I also tried using 1 load for each side with and without the lower transistors. So far I have only been able to maintain steady voltages on the batteries without any net charging. I was reading 13.8v across the parallel battery diodes. I did get some decent charging when I disconnected the osc from one side making it function like a 3 battery switch with the low side having 2 12v batteries in parallel. I ran it for a while like this at 400hz with very low duty cycle and gained .5v on each of the parallel batteries while only losing .3v on each of the series batteries. Then I switched it around to charge in the other direction. I then discovered one of my batteries was bad and had dropped to 8.56v (4 x 12v, 12ah sla UPS batteries). I will run it all over again with my good 12v 28ah utility batteries.

Alex