3 Battery Generating System

[gene gene]

More than just lurking.

Hi Dave,

I have been following this discussion with much interest since post #1, and wish to thank all who have contributed here. I have slowly been gathering parts to replicate and test, but I'm undecided on where to start.

I need to buy a new deep cycle 12V battery for the boat, should I buy 2? Or would the money be better spent on used golf cart batteries? I do not have a lot of money for this but have been saving.

Do you think it's a good idea to convert the new batteries to alum?

I now have a 12V DC cord less drill I no longer use with to bad batteries, that I can take apart for the motor. I also picked up at the salvage yard a 12-24V dc motor off a electric lawn mower $5. This week I will be picking up a broken handicap scooter also 24V for $20, this will provide many more parts.

Just to let you know some of us are more than just lurking.

Wishing good luck to all here and thanks, Gene

[Turion]

gene gene,
I am speaking for myself, but I would rather have the golf cart batteries. They are made to take the abuse of charging and discharging and hold up a lot better under all kinds of conditions. There are others who might have another opinion.

Here is my post of kind of the directions on building Matt's latest schematic if you are having any trouble. Since Matt says I did it right.

3BGS. Matt's Schematic - YouTube


Dave

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Not just a lurker.../pulse motor

Hello, ya i'm an long time experimenter too but don't like to waste my time/money for nothing so... Just want to let you know (remember) about a previous ''dead'' battery systems experimenter Ossie Callanan. It's a pulsating system and seems to work well.

http://www.fluxite.com/WorkingRadiantEnergy.pdf

[Matthew Jones]

Hello, ya i'm an long time experimenter too but don't like to waste my time/money for nothing so... Just want to let you know (remember) about a previous ''dead'' battery systems experimenter Ossie Callanan. It's a pulsating system and seems to work well.

http://www.fluxite.com/WorkingRadiantEnergy.pdf

That was posted a couple of pages back. Thats how setup my latest schematic.

Matt

[Turion]

CrystalDipoleMatrix,
I have built that circuit and it DOES work, but does not produce near the power I have seen out of this.

Dave

[fathershand]

Confused

gene gene,
I am speaking for myself, but I would rather have the golf cart batteries. They are made to take the abuse of charging and discharging and hold up a lot better under all kinds of conditions. There are others who might have another opinion.

Here is my post of kind of the directions on building Matt's latest schematic if you are having any trouble. Since Matt says I did it right.

3BGS. Matt's Schematic - YouTube


Dave

Dave, I saw your video and am confused on a few points. You were pointing at the middle bad battery and calling it number 3. Wasn't that bad battery 2?

Also, I am using 5 good batteries as primary for my 95V motor. I have hooked the serial bad batteries to battery number 3 per the schematic. When I try to hook up my bad battery #2 negative to the good battery #5 negative, I get a spark and later the bad battery cable connected to #3 good battery negative started to melt, Something is wrong.

Also, labeling your batteries in the video will help. Something that will help the posted schematic is to put large dots where there are wire connections. It's hard to see the actual connections in the schematic. There is also a symbol for showing wires crossing over other wires without connecting to them.

Thanks for your time and your video post.
Tony

[Turion]

fathershand,
I know you have been following along on the thread. I called the middle bad battery #3 because it is the third Battery in the 3BGS. Matt added a battery above it and below it to isolate it. If you are getting heat, the voltage in your bad batteries is too high. I had the same problem. Different batteries solved it. There may be another solution, but make sure you drain those bad ones!!

[clueless]

An update on my setup

I haven't posted in a few days wanting to get my 3BGS up and running. Thursday I got everything connected and my two good batteries fully charged; bat 1 at 13 volts and bat 2 at 12.5 volts. Both batteries are reclaimed batteries. Battery 3 is one that I have been trying for a year to take a charge; it sat at 0 volts.
Since it was about dark I waited until Friday. Again it was late Friday before I had enough time to run a quick test. I had a electrician friend help me wire in a ceiling light fixture and he went over with this setup. We checked the batteries capacitance for lack of a better description. It is on the cel-tech dial top right. both of my charged batteries were at 35 one just a tad over and the other a tad under. Bat 3 read 0 on the dial.
Connecting the motor the first time nothing happened until I gave it a spin and it kept going and gaining speed. When it stabilized I put a 12 volt 10 watt bulb across bat 3 and motor sped up. Since I didn't have the 2nd motor mounted nor anymore loads handy for bat 3 after about another 5 minutes I shut it down. Both batteries had lost a little less than a tenth of a volt. bat 3 was showing 11.5 volts. the other test both good bats were still at 35 while #3 was 28.
I've ran three more tests today all about 10-15 minutes each. volts 12.96, 12.56 and #3, 4volts. I started today with a load on bat 3 and then connected the motor and once the motor stabilized I connected a 1,000 watt inverter to #3 and the motor sped up. Let me add here it was that with a load across bat 3 first and then connecting the motor bat 3 showed 0 volts until the motor started and it flashed briefly at 19 volts before setteling in at about 14 volts where it would slowly drop. This was also when I noticed a voltage drop in bats 1 &2 to 12.56 and 12.21( this with a single motor and bulb across 3 and no inverter.
With an inverter and single motor and light running for again about 10-15 minutes both primary bats gained voltage, above what I was able to achieve with my desuphator. bat 1 13.07 volts and bat 2 12.57 volts.
I then mounted the 2nd motor via chain and ran another test and adding a load to the inverter, a desk lamp 40 and 20 watt bulbs. In this setup the voltage dipped below 10.5 volts and light goes off and the jumps to 14 volts light comes back on volts go down below 10.5 and then repeat.
I think a smaller inverter might be called for here or a another battery ( a good one) pararell with the 2nd.
I have to say this works as advertised and I am pretty much clueless with electronics.
Update I remembered I do have a smaller inverter it is 150 watt and works longer before the voltage drops.
I have just about run out of space if I'm going to run anything from the inverter I have to stabilize the voltage.
-rg

[Matthew Jones]

Short tests are the killer. Start and stops are the thing that are most likely going to lose power.

Matt

[fathershand]

High Voltage?

fathershand,
I know you have been following along on the thread. I called the middle bad battery #3 because it is the third Battery in the 3BGS. Matt added a battery above it and below it to isolate it. If you are getting heat, the voltage in your bad batteries is too high. I had the same problem. Different batteries solved it. There may be another solution, but make sure you drain those bad ones!!

Dave, the voltage at the beginning of each run in my 3 batteries:
#1 = 0.00V
#2 = 0.00V
#3 = 1.89V

The bad batteries are: "Not merely dead, but they are really most sincerely dead".*

* From the wizard of OZ when describing the dead wicked witch of the west.


Tony

[Turion]

fathershand,
I haven't yet tried using five primary batteries, so I don't know how to answer that. The only overheating I have seen is when my dead batteries had too much charge in them. And it wasn't INITIAL charge. The both started out with NOTHING, but gained a charge quite rapidly. You need batteries that won't do that because they are heavily sulfated.

Sorry I can't be of more help. Maybe Matt has an idea. The only thing I can think of is that in Matt's original schematic he connects the two bad batteries between equal potentials (12 volts on each side) and with five batteries you have more on one side than the other. My suggestion would therefore be to use four good batteries or six, instead of an odd number. and connect the positive of your first bad battery and the negative of your last bad battery in the middle, but that is just a guess off the top of my head.

Dave

[clueless]

Matt and Dave

What I'm encouraged by as much as anything is the spirit of cooperation on this thread. Lacking for the most part is any signs of ego.
I just wanted to say that studying proverbs chapters 1-10 has helped me with this setup. For someone who hasn't a clue (clueless) I only had one additional trip for connectors and in the midths of a "honey-dew" list I had every good excuse to fail but what I see is good results. Jesus has to be a part of that equation Who I called on for help.
I've gained voltage and power while basically running two motors for free. I can run longer tests but I despise wasting stuff and there is all this mechanical energy from the two motors that are just being ignored...at least by me and that is one reason my tests have been in the 10-15 minute area.
My sense tells me that this 3BGS can be used to quickly return a battery to full charge using one motor and no load on bat 3. Or a small load.
I noticed that with the smaller inverter and the same desk light that the cycle of speeding up and slowing down of the motors were related I am just not certain which caused which.
Can anyone give me a clue as to how I might be able to stabilize the current on bat 3 with a load on the inverter.

[Turion]

clueless,
I have had the best performance when I have balanced the load on the inverter with the load on the motor. What I USUALLY do is put my load on the motor first, and slowly add loads to battery three (as I discussed in post #1) until I get it into balance. It is truly a tedious painful process.

Dave

[Matthew Jones]

Dave, the voltage at the beginning of each run in my 3 batteries:
#1 = 0.00V
#2 = 0.00V
#3 = 1.89V

The bad batteries are: "Not merely dead, but they are really most sincerely dead".*

* From the wizard of OZ when describing the dead wicked witch of the west.


Tony

You have to look at each battery while the system is running. If the wing batteries come up while your running they are not dead enough, most sincerly...

If it continues to be problem I guess you could add diodes and just hook them to the primary hookup.




I have not tried it though but it might have the same effect.

Matt

[Turion]

"It just so happens that your friend here is only MOSTLY dead. There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive."

Miracle Max from "The Princess Bride"
(Sorry, I apologize to one and all! My kids LOVED that movie and I must heard those lines a million times!"

Dave