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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

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    Originally posted by imakebiodiesel View Post
    I think that reducing the lime is a good idea. the temperature of the condenser will work straight away.
    Remember to weigh a litre of each fraction of each batch so that you have a record of any change in fuel quality caused by changes in the process.
    Thanks for your tips .
    I was too much occupied in running trial runs of my NEW-100 gallon Batch size unit that I have to stop the good R&D work . Hopefully I will be back on the track next week .

    U-R right, to Confirm the quality consistancy of liquid product by comparing the Specific gravity of all the Batches made, is the most reliable method .
    My father runs a paint & polymer making factory & I sometime back was engaged in the R&D work . The first lesson I was told;
    "Always check the gravity of paints & varnishes of each batch made . If there is any significant difference than DEFINETLY something went wrong in the product".

    I would like to show U pics & video of my 100-GL Baby . Will try to learn-load it on you-tube & send the link for the community.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Asad Farooqui View Post
      I would like to show U pics & video of my 100-GL Baby . Will try to learn-load it on you-tube & send the link for the community.
      Drawing will be better than photos

      Comment


      • Cant wait to see your new reactor, the dual fuel system makes sense especially for a large unit.
        Over the last few years making biodiesel I have learned that your father was right, always keep an eye on the specific gravity, it will give you valuable information, especially when something goes wrong.

        Another useful test is viscosity. Conventional viscosity measurements can be quite complicated but we home brewers have devised a simple viscosity scale which works very well for fuel.
        Take any 300 or 500 ml soft drinks bottle(PET) and place it in a shallow bowl. With a strong needle make a small hole about 20mm from the bottom. Mark the bottle with a permanent marker about 40mm from the top.
        With your finger over the hole fill the bottle with water. Remove your finger and when the level of the water reaches the mark begin timing exactly 100 seconds. At 100 seconds mark the level of the water. Your apparatus is now calibrated and ready for use.
        Empty out the water and this time fill with a fuel to be tested and repeat the procedure.
        Gasoline?petrol will measure about 89 seconds, kerosene 108 secs. diesel 115 secs and biodiesel 120secs. Using these as a guide you can check how close your own fuel is to standard commercial fuel.

        Comment


        • Im no expert with computers and photos but if you set up a free account with imageshack or photobucket you can store your images there. They will have a facility to convert the images to a suitable link which you copy and paste into the forum.

          Comment


          • Hi Asad, I can't help you with youtube, but a few years back my friend Rick was kind enough to walk me through step by step, how to post pictures and drawings. His good teachings can be found here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...boiler-12.html
            Hope this helps, Gene
            I forgot Info is in post#356
            Last edited by gene gene; 06-12-2011, 04:10 AM.

            Comment


            • ways to load file and videos

              Originally posted by Asad Farooqui View Post
              Hello Insearch ;

              1) I have just completed my 100 Gallon per batch unit .
              I would like to attach pics of my baby but I tried to copy/paste it but unsucessfull .I would like to know HOW to attach pictures & video .
              If anybody can guide me ???

              My unit has a Dual-heating system=elec-heaters+ gas burner .
              It's a closed looped process . The C1-4 type gas vapours which are non-condensable , are FedBack into burner chamber to heat the main reactor .Resulting in Zero gas wastage .
              Temperature controllers for all reactors are installed .
              There is much more but U have to waot for the pics & video ......


              2) CaOH2 , don't try to make everything yourself . Its judt added 2-3% only & will not increase the cost much .
              I got the CaOH from a fine chemical supplier in my city.
              You can easily get it from such a supplier in your city. It's available in 01 kg & 25 kg bag packing .
              MERCK is a German company 135 years old offers most of the fine chemicals , maybe U find there local agent .




              Dear Asad,
              Thanks for the update,
              I think you can load photos by using Additional Option, Attach File.
              I have used it to load photos and it is the easiest way I know.
              Also it will be great help if you can load drawing and design of My Babe (your project). also you can use YOU TUBE to loasd your vidoe for that you naad to create your account and than load the vidoe.
              After that just copy and paste URL in Forum reply, it will auomatically create it as link.
              Hope this will help.

              Comment


              • Insearch, hydrated lime is a common building material in Ireland and the UK. you can buy it in any builders supply here for about 10 euro for 25 kilos. Im not sure where you live but you should be able to find it. Its a white powder and can be added directly to the oil.

                Comment


                • My 100-G Baby.

                  Originally posted by Insearch View Post
                  Dear Asad,
                  I think you can load photos by using Additional Option, Attach File.
                  Also it will be great help if you can load drawing and design of My Babe (your project):
                  Hello everybody in the community ;
                  I tried to attach my 05-G & 100-G baby pictures at the time of final assembly . I hope it works .
                  First of all I would like to thank jetijs & the community members for all the advises I received & learned through the pages of this forum , It's an ocean full of info. One has to swim deepdown & shure he will get "Pearls o of Sucesses".
                  At one time I was running a factory with 50 workers suddenly My company got bankrupt & I lost everything except "HOPE on GOD".
                  IN college days I read a quote;
                  "Everybody is paid in TWO types of coins, "MONEY & Experience", take the experience first & Money will come on its way".

                  I started again from Zero got initial success initialy with a 05 Gallon reactor. I would like to thank specially "CARBOGGER", who at this stage encouraged & guided me through the whole process . He use to email me almost everyday with valuable info & send me the link of this thread .


                  Now the Salient features of 100-G Baby are ;
                  1) Dual Heating system = gas + Electric heaters .
                  2) Material Feeding Lid is just only 6" wide, with V-groove (thanks Jetijs)
                  3) 100-Gallon capacity Main reactor .
                  4) Reflux Reactor mounted right on top of the main reactor through a 3" pipe + a conical bottom . This I hope will help the heavies to fall back in the main reactor . Temperature maintained at 350 Celsius .....
                  5) Third is the Diesel range reactor madeup of S/Steel tank maintained at 150 Celsius .
                  6) Fourth is the Gasoline collecting tank with water cooled double-jacket .
                  7) Fifth is a water bubbler.
                  8) Non-condensible gasses are redirected to main reactor to help heating it.
                  9) Control Panel with temperature indicators & controllers for each reactor .

                  This is a close loop process all the liquid & gas fuel produced are utilized .

                  This picture is before the insulation material & covers were put on .I poured some water & started the reactor which in one hour started producing steam . I ran it for 4-5 hours to check all the systems work well & there's no leakage at any joints & openings, because Leakages causes FIRE .

                  Yesturday I made first run .Everything went quite till 350 celsius .After this temperature the material feeding lid started to leak slightly & I could see couple of drops of Crude oil tickling down from one point only .
                  I shut the system immediately.
                  Tomorrow I plan to replace the nut-bolts with LN-Key bolt + S/steel nuts with spring washers. Hope they will be able to hold the lid at higher temperature & pressure .


                  Sorry I took a long time , will keep U guys updated & will load video on Youtube ASAP.
                  Last edited by Asad Farooqui; 01-02-2013, 12:17 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Asad Farooqui View Post


                    Now the Salient features of 100-G Baby are ;
                    1) Dual Heating system = gas + Electric heaters .

                    Thank you for sharing. That's a record breaker. I'm working on a 28 G reactor. The challenge is on the setup of heaters without using aluminum oxide blocks. You seem to have wrapped a steel sheet around your reactor. Can you please share with us the details on the set up of your heaters.

                    Noonya

                    Comment


                    • Elec heaters

                      Originally posted by noonya View Post
                      Thank you for sharing. That's a record breaker. I'm working on a 28 G reactor. The challenge is on the setup of heaters without using aluminum oxide blocks.
                      Hello Noonya ;
                      Electric heaters are tailor made according to the dia of the reactor by specialists.
                      Elec-heaters are madeup of Nichrome wire packed/sandwitched b/w two S/S metal sheets .
                      Electric heaters each used is of 2000 watts & of 3" wide .

                      No metal cage is required in this case .
                      Ceramic wool is wraped directly on the heaters .Note ceramic wool Only can withstand upto 1000 celsius .

                      Comment


                      • filling the reactor

                        Hi all, I am new here but, I have been following this thread since the beginning and have built my system.
                        This weekend I made my first attempt at producing fuel.
                        My reactor is a 55 gallon drum heated with a babbington burner running on diesel. I have a 6 inch pipe running through the barrel about 6 inches up from the bottom. and my burner nozzel slides into this pipe.
                        I filled the barrel to the top with old plastic perscription bottels. After about 4 hours of cooking I could not get it above 400 degrees even though the heating chamber was glowing red.
                        I finally gave up and when it cooled I opened the barrel to see the results. The plastic had melter down to about 2 inches at the bottom of the barrel it was under my heating chamber. I believe i could have controlled the temp better had I been able to fill the barrel to the top.

                        We have the information here on how to create fuel ,but has anyone come up with an effective way to grind or shredd there own plastic. I would have to have it shipped in where I live. Thanks again for all the info.

                        Comment


                        • Hi to all!

                          I'm in the process of building my own diesel plant. I did some testing with a very simple device that I build, just to see if it would work. And it worked! Instead of shredded plastic I use wmo. Shredded plastic is hard to get in the place where I live.
                          I have build a vertical Babington burner that heats the boiler. It has some safety features build in to prevent accidents when the flame should die. It is running on wmo. It has 3 condensers connected in series that are water cooled, and controlled by temperature controllers. I hope to catch 3 fractions this way. This set-up is the only thing that I have not tested, so I hope it will work. The gasses that are not condense back to a liquid will be fed to the fire tube where they will aid in heating the boiler.
                          I tried to keep the footprint of the plant small so I can put it in a shed when it works. Its 0,6 mtr x 0,7 mtr x 2,2 mtr without the smokestack. I also build everything as a separate module so I can change things quick and easy if I need to.
                          The whole boiler and fire tube are insulated with rock-wool to get the maximum out of the heat from the burner. I hope to do some testing soon!
                          Thanks for all the info and tips in this thread. I gave me the inspiration to build my own distiller!

                          Regards,

                          Redkrabby
                          Last edited by Redkrabby; 06-13-2011, 08:50 PM. Reason: Corrected some spelling mistakes.

                          Comment


                          • To asaad farooqui

                            Thanks for sharing pictures and congrats for your work !

                            Stainless steel nuts may seize more easily than regular steel ones . Using copper grease (anti seize grease) could be a good thing for high temp use.

                            I am experiencing incredible strong deposits into my first diesel batch, it was sitting here for about 3 to 4 weeks.

                            I really need to find a good anti-oxidant, not easy to get here.

                            I've got an lubricating oil factory nearby, they have antioxydant for oil, not diesel. They want to ask a lot of questions about my use for that, of course I'd never tell.

                            I wonder if the antioxydant they use for oil could work fine for my home made diesel ?

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by islander View Post
                              I've got an lubricating oil factory nearby, they have antioxydant for oil, not diesel. They want to ask a lot of questions about my use for that, of course I'd never tell.

                              I wonder if the antioxydant they use for oil could work fine for my home made diesel ?
                              it will work, 100 %!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by islander View Post

                                I am experiencing incredible strong deposits into my first diesel batch, it was sitting here for about 3 to 4 weeks.

                                I really need to find a good anti-oxidant, not easy to get here.


                                I wonder if the antioxydant they use for oil could work fine for my home made diesel ?
                                Please look for Aaron's posts in this thread. He has a wonderful fuel stabilisation product. I bought from him and it works like magic.

                                Comment

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