Original PVM12 Schematic:
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Donald Smith Devices too good to be true
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Tswift,
Try to rewind the L1 with high voltage wire. While changing coils i noticed with the magnet wire coil more static everywhere in the room. This is because of shorts in the coil / corona discharge.
I could be you are losing "power".
Shorts too ground will have a similar effect. You can hear it an feel it
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Originally posted by Mwtj View PostUnfortunaly i am only about a 300 feet above sea level. A little less than i thought
Lets just have a recap.
What are tswift's and serendipitor's elevations?
So currently the only open loop working replication is the lowest elevation.
Serendipitor please can you email me some detailed pictures of your setup.
Bruce has already troubleshooted Mwtj's and Tswift's (we think).
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Originally posted by tswift View PostThere seems to be an error in the schematic, the HV diode should be the other way around so that the antenna is charged positive not negative. Dragon noticed the inconsistency and Mwtj also noticed this by reading the text closely and built his device to match the text not the schematic. I flipped the diode and now I have spark, as mentioned above. So far not enough juice to light anything up, but I have several other things to try also.
Is this related to your earth that needs removing?
Mwtj what did you change? Can you quote the text please?
Tswift can you send me a picture of where you put the diode instead please?
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Well, that page of instruction that comes with the PVM12 makes it seem as if the black and green grounds are separate, but they lie! I opened the unit, and sure enough, both are tied together to the metal plate that serves as circuit common. The outer housing is either ABS or styrene plastic, which is good. It's easy enough to unscrew the holding screw and separate them, but this doesn't solve the problem that they are also not HV wire, so I will have to partially rewire it. When my HV wire comes in that is, I have some on order now. So yes, that was definitely a problem.
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Originally posted by tswift View PostWell, that page of instruction that comes with the PVM12 makes it seem as if the black and green grounds are separate, but they lie! I opened the unit, and sure enough, both are tied together to the metal plate that serves as circuit common. The outer housing is either ABS or styrene plastic, which is good. It's easy enough to unscrew the holding screw and separate them, but this doesn't solve the problem that they are also not HV wire, so I will have to partially rewire it. When my HV wire comes in that is, I have some on order now. So yes, that was definitely a problem.Attached Files
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Yes, I noticed that too. I think the HV transformer in this device was adapted from an air purifier/ionizer and originally had two "hot" wires with the center tap coming out the bottom as a black wire. I'm assuming they were just a part that could be sourced in large quantities for cheap. So the center tap is now "ground" and the other hot wire is just cut leaving the end like this. Otherwise the PVM12 unit seems well built with some attention to detail in the design and construction but leaving the cut end of the other HV wire like that seems undesirable to me. I wish they had just brought it out to a separate lead and the unit could be double the voltage.
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Yeah apologies, I made a mistake on the schematic:
So test the cut lead with a fluorescent tube or something to quickly verify it has an output and then if all good, wire some HV wire to it.
At least you know why the circuit wasn't behaving properly!Last edited by soundiceuk; 12-28-2016, 06:08 PM.
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Originally posted by tswift View PostYes, I noticed that too. I think the HV transformer in this device was adapted from an air purifier/ionizer and originally had two "hot" wires with the center tap coming out the bottom as a black wire. I'm assuming they were just a part that could be sourced in large quantities for cheap. So the center tap is now "ground" and the other hot wire is just cut leaving the end like this. Otherwise the PVM12 unit seems well built with some attention to detail in the design and construction but leaving the cut end of the other HV wire like that seems undesirable to me. I wish they had just brought it out to a separate lead and the unit could be double the voltage.
The primary has a centre tap.
What's the worst that can happen from using both HV outlets, the fuse blow?
Unlikely with the R1 resistor in series.
Agree?
4. is a useful instruction!
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Ok, so me and Bruce have done some deeper investigation into this HVM.
There are a number of different versions of it.
What you need to do is remove the green wire and the black wire number 5.
Then join the HV wire to the black wire coming out of the bottom of the flyback.
Luckily Bruce's new one is clear plastic so you can see it.
You were right about the centre tap.
The cut HOT end is not connected and has no continuity if you check.
Please can you confirm yours is wired the same?Last edited by soundiceuk; 12-28-2016, 10:26 PM.
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