Multifilar Generator Coil - Lenz delay Experiments

[BroMikey]

Yes, I did some more core work and now doing the bobbin so
it is going to be a while since I must also finish the fitting on
the second generator school project. It has 10 magnets that are
10mm dia and 15mm long.

The frame needs some work, just adding bracing and then formulating
the best mounting that can still be adjustable to center the "C" core.

Also my magnets must be set in the specialized epoxy in the magnetic
shield/holder/adjuster. The thing that kept progress going slowly was
not having a decent core that I could think up, then I stopped to build
the other slow moving school experimenter. The cores and bobbin is
critical.

I have motors (DC scooter) and the rotor mounts, drive coupler. The
framing was a big job and it is looking great. All measurement are
good on spacing so the "C" cores can be set in with shims and locked
down. It's quite a piece of art work. It may not look like it to others.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, glad to hear you're making good progress with your setup.
Just applied power to my motor and unfortunately, the cad paper template method did not work out perfectly.
Normally, I use a router with circle jig, then mark the magnet holes with protractor and ruler and that has always worked fairly well.
I noticed you said you have used a shim method for getting the center hole more centered.
I'm going to try that with some steel wire garden wire.
If it does not work, I will build another rotor with the router method.
peace love light

Edit: ok, used a small piece of steel garden wire next to 3/8" bolt and it worked to center rotor much better, almost perfect. Also needed 2 large steel washers where rotor meets nut coupler arbor, as 1 washer caused up and down wobble.

So I take back previous comment, the cad paper template does work pretty good, more likely my hand drilling methods, that are to blame.

Have no idea how it will be when the magnets are in place, so we will cross that bridge when we get there, I will not glue them in place until it is tested in rotation, the magnetic fields should hold them in place for this testing.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, here's a video of the rotor running on 12 volts.
It should work ok, have to try it with magnets installed yet.
peace love light

https://youtu.be/KbOO4pOXEp8

[BroMikey]

Hi all, here's a video of the rotor running on 12 volts.
It should work ok, have to try it with magnets installed yet.
peace love light

https://youtu.be/KbOO4pOXEp8

Pretty decent is right and when you get the magnets on it will be just
as smooth if not better, course you can get any better. The thing ain't
even tied down and there is no vibration. Pretty sweet deal, oh and
thx for the pat on the back over my new bobbin.

[Netica]

Hi SkyWatcher,

I make alot of things out of mdf like your rotor in the video.
Be very careful when you put magnets in it as there will be alot of stress on the mdf board and its only wood. I would put a couple of bricks between the rotor and yourself in case the rotor should fall apart. I have a rotor like yours that I have used for other experiments but I have only ever had it up to 1000 rpm. It is 200mm in diameter.

Mdf is very useful and easy to work with. I also print out a design like yourself to cut out mdf.
I will explain a good method I use to get it onto the mdf.

Get your piece of mdf that you want to cut out and another of roughly the same size to use as a pressure plate.
I use spray glue from a craft shop.
This is very important. Spray the mdf only, with the glue (not the drawing) applying an even coat. Allow to dry for a minute or two. then place on the drawing and just let it down evenly onto the glue/mdf.
Now get the other piece of mdf and place it on top of the paper and apply pressure evenly onto it to press the drawing onto the glue.
and that's it.

By doing it this way the paper doesn't stretched or get distorted in any way. It took a while to get this right, but it is the best method I have come up with so far.

Here is a link to something I made using this method some time ago - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kqN7ihsOyM

Hope this may come in useful.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, thanks for the positive words.
I put all the magnets in place and spun it up on the 12 volts and it was not too good.
So I shimmed, then had it fairly true and when i took the rotor off and put it back on, the rotor was out of true again.
It's useable, though at higher rpm's, It might put too much stress on the motor bearings.

So, I plan to make a new, simpler, radial rotor, without all the time consuming spacers.
The 1/2" deep magnet holes will be drilled into the periphery of the rotor, superglued in place and fiber tape reinforcement.
It might be a smaller diameter rotor this time, will have to draw it on cad and see how it works out.

Hi netica, thanks for the good information, will probably use those tips.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

I put all the magnets in place and spun it up on the 12 volts and it
was not too good.

Remember that I cheated? I use HIGH SPEED SAW BLADES. Here is what
I know about randomly designed materials. machines randomly blow
out fibers and chip with varying amounts of glue, press it out heated.
They were never meant for high speeds. Such materials must be
balanced later. Wood is no better, this is why some portions of randomly
produced materials will be indestructible on one side and crack on the
other seemingly without cause.

On the other hand light weight board has it's place for mounting and
fixtures. Now take a piece of plastic, it is uniform throughout it's
entire mass. Lexan is so awesome, scientifically formulated to stop
bullets but every sq inch is exactly the same as the next just like
poured steel, aluminum and brass.

Another thought is that you can chuck up a 12" circle of Styrofoam
spinning it effortlessly without vibration until you start hanging
weights on it's outer perimeter you find just how precise it needs
to be.

I know all this so me cheated My first one was a 10" tablesaw
blade using the arbor from off of a table saw ordered from ebay
used at $20 measly bucks Think of it. I let everyone else
do the work for me. That is why I am looking at auto flywheels for
a possible future rotor. They are already balanced good to 10,000 rpm.

So you see, i feel your pain. But how else ya gonna learn?

You are an advanced builder way ahead of the curve, nothing stops you.
Stick with me, I won't let you go unchecked.

[Pot head]

Nice work, thanks for your
dedication and valuable time.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for the helpful information and positive words as usual.
That's not cheating, that is being creative and trying not to reinvent the wheel.

Hi turion, thanks for sharing the nice rotor pic and information, I see it has the narrow magnets for the slower rpm effect, nice.

I was working on the simpler rotor today, I made it 8" diameter this time.
Yes, used mdf again and was able to balance it out well with a little lead weight.
Again, I used the hand jig saw to cut the rotor, which is not ideal.
I usually use a circle jig with a plunge router and that has always worked pretty well, just got lazy I guess.
Also, the rotor will have 10 magnets this time.
Next step is to bore the magnet holes in the radial edge a 1/2" deep.
Will then probably have to rebalance the rotor with the magnets in place.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, the new 8" diameter magnet rotor is coming along.

Almost done super gluing them, then will add fiber tape reinforcement around the periphery.

Will probably have to rebalance after that.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Nice big magnets, not my favorite design but that is okay for testing
if you don't get injured during 3000 rpm operation. Yes use some
bricks like short chimney all around the project, lead is to costly

I think the key issue (just guessing) with clear tape is that this design
makes it more trouble to get a tight gap and in the process some of
the tape and magnets will come into contact. You know what they say
about one weak link in a chain.

Since you are using such powerful magnets your plan was probably to
use a wide gap. Good idea. Lexan also works well for flying magnets.

Sand bags?

Great job balancing. I see many ways to balance, tiny
bearings when standing up the rotor vertically. Then there is the
horizontal balancing act like a magician holding up a plate in the
center with 1 finger.

Have a good day.

[Pot head]

SkyWatcher

Do you have space restrictions for your build?
John Bedini wrote the bigger the better= slower rotation.
If balanced it can run super fast and safely.
I had my now broke wheel generator running so fast It sang but it scared the Shiite out of me.
I ran it slow on 24 volts to charge the battery bank for my inverters to run my house.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, yes, that is a good idea, It will have protection around it for sure.
Though it should not need 3000 rpm to achieve lenz neutral and if 2300 rpm is not fast enough, well, I'll make a new coil then.

I finished the rotor and it is balanced pretty well, used lead from an old, large bullet that was found in a field.
Though had a little issue with wobble, a steel washer configuration solved that.

Hi pot head, yes I have space restrictions at the moment and I don't plan on ballistic speed with this rotor, though would like a slower rotating design, as long as it can get lenz neutral effect.

peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, the project is moving along, waiting for the paint to dry on the rest of the core pieces.
Though I will probably test the north-south magnet rotor as is, then probably make it an all north out magnet rotor after that, to use turions counter permanent magnet neutralizer method.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

You can do both tests and should. "N" "N" "N" is one test.
Here is what i am looking for.

200ma @100v for 1 of the 3 channels on a single AUL coil. X 3= 50-60 watts and this is
with weak magnets and #23 wire. Magnetic cancellation as well.

24vdc input was and will be 2 amps at running speed. Go figure. Originally I run a
modified motor at 20vdc at 2 amps and got speed up with the huge 50lb magnets on
my 20 magnet 10" rotor, taking 5 amps for start up smoked my modified, redid the
winding and am now ready to try again.

Gonna run a standard scooter motor first which leaves me some head
room as before I needed a clutch to reach run RPM's, remember?

Yeah extra power to get her up to speed. Learned my lessen, gotta have
cancellation.

Now with the small rotor and weaker magnets it won't be a problem
to get up to cruising speed even without cancellation. Again both
tests are in order.