Basic Free Energy Device

[Turion]

Farmhand,
Take three brand new fully charged batteries in parallel and connect a load of your choice. Time your run or measure the watts used. Either way or both if you choose. Run it until the load "quits" IE the light goes out or the motor quits running. You will have drained the batteries probably farther than you should since they are in parallel and it will be combined amps that are provided to the load

Recharge the batteries and hook them up in the 3BGS configuration. All good batteries. Monitor the voltage in battery three so it doesn't climb to over 15 volts and rotate battery three to the 2nd position and battery 2 to the first position when the voltage on three gets too high. Run it as long as you can. If you get longer run time and far more watts used than with your first run, what would YOUR conclusion be?

Repeat this same test as often as you need to in order to understand that something happens here that cannot so easily be dismissed.

Dave

[Turion]

Motor and batteries

altrez,
We are not sure exactly what to put out there to have everybody build, and Matt is still playing with a couple ideas. But you cannot go wrong with a simple razor scooter motor and some batteries. They will play into this somehow.Even if it means rewinding the scooter motor as a pulse motor, which we have done many, many times.

Dave

[altrez]

altrez,
We are not sure exactly what to put out there to have everybody build, and Matt is still playing with a couple ideas. But you cannot go wrong with a simple razor scooter motor and some batteries. They will play into this somehow.Even if it means rewinding the scooter motor as a pulse motor, which we have done many, many times.

Dave

Sounds good. I will build the basic 3 battery device first and run tests. Can other types of loads be used?

Thanks,

-Altrez

[Turion]

Loads

You can use any kind of load you can think of, including an inverter connected to battery 3. I usually run a 120 watt light on the inverter on battery three and try to balance that with a load on the motor when I am running the 3BGS with a "bad" battery.

.

[Turion]

3bgs

This really isn't the 3BGS thread, but what the heck.

What people don't seem to understand about the 3BGS is that every battery has an amp hour rating. If you are using 3 of the 7.5 amp hour batteries and one is dead, the MOST you would expect to get out of the system would be to run a 1 amp load for 22.5 hours (if ALL THREE of your batteries were fully charged (and that's not real, because you never REALLY get 7.5 amp hours out of a 7.5 amp hour battery.) So when you are able to run that load for 40 or 50 or 60 hours, or night and day for three or four weeks, all the time drawing not only one amp at the load, but RUNNING THE MOTOR at the same time, it becomes obvious there is something here. I don't need meters to tell me this. I just need half a brain.

You can say it doesn't work. You can whine thet you have tried it and got nothing. I really don't care. I let the naysayers get to me once and gave up on it for almost 6 months, but I have just seen it work too many times. It isn't always repeatable and it doesn't always work. And even when it does work it will suddenly quit working, so it is the MOST frustrating thing I have ever been associated with. But I will NEVER stop advocating research into this thing because I have seen what it is capable of. And once you SEE that, it is impossible to forget it.

Dave

[altrez]

You can use any kind of load you can think of, including an inverter connected to battery 3. I usually run a 120 watt light on the inverter on battery three and try to balance that with a load on the motor when I am running the 3BGS with a "bad" battery.

.

So I would have the motor inline as the load and then directly connect the inverter to battery 3 on the Pos and Neg terminals correct? So if i was using a good battery 3 at 13.6 that would be fine.

Would I just wait for a bad battery 3 to come back to life then attach the inverter?

Thanks for the help!

-Altrez

[Turion]

3BGS setup

If you were going to use a "bad" battery on the 3BGS in the third position you would first get the setup running. The easiest way to do that is to put a load across battery 3, say a lightbulb. Then once it is running, attach the inverter to battery three.

If you want to do it the way that will give YOU the most data and prove to you that there is something about this system that is different, You would just follow the steps in post #1 on the 3BGS thread. Those steps are there for a reason. They are based on (at the time) eight years of working on this setup. They are to show you specific things and get you thinking about specific things. All this talk about battery sulfating goes out the window when you follow those steps and think about what I said about magnetic alignment or magnetic polarity in the third battery. Nobody bothers to follow those steps, so very few people have seen the things I have seen. But enough have.

Dave

[Tishatang]

Hi Turion

I will get all model numbers for you. I will look tonight and send for next post.
My 90 amp densos have the dual winding. My early toyota truck 50 amps have only single winding. A 70 amp ford alternator is much bigger physically the the 90 amp denso. Maybe the secret is the dual winding for power to size?

The advantage of alternator as a generator is no magnetic lock. You dial the rotor voltage in as you need it. I would guess the pulse motor will get it running, alternators turn easy if the bearings are good. As the speed picks up, then dial in the rotor voltage.

I can see now that maybe I can merge my rig into the 3 battery system? If I add a DC brush motor in series and drive system with bad third bat instead of my good deep cycle bat? I have several bad batteries to try. All I need is space, time and energy, hah hah!

I have another anomaly with my rig. After a long run like 40 minutes driving a load and maxed out at 1500 rpm, my generator is much hotter to touch than my drive motor/alt. I rationalized that although the motor is physically identical to the generator, electrically, they are different. In my case the motor is driven digitally, and the alternator is generating analog energy.

As I think about it, how can digital be more efficient than analog? Isn't heat a function of power used whether digital or analog. If anything, one would expect the motor to be hotter than the generator regardless. Especially since the basic freq of the motor controller is around 16,000 hertz which is converted to PWM plus rotating field. The 16K should heat up the laminations more than the analog hertz of the generator at around 200 at 2,000 rpm?

[Tishatang]

Here is link to 3 phase motor like mine on ebay.

Whirlpool Kenmore Washer Motor 205850 20585 000 131770600 WSXH208A1WW | eBay

Correction rated at 16,000 rpm.

-----------------------------------------------------------
Denso Family 90HS
TN121000-xxxx where the xxxx is different on my two alts. PicknPull auto wrecking about $25 for car alternators. I got mine from local auto mechanic for $10 each core charge. Make sure bearings turn smooth. Chances are only thing wrong are brushes and/or diode bad in the bridge rectifier.

Here is photo comparing sizes to 70 Amp early eighties ford thunderbird alt.

[altrez]

Hello All,

Would anyone happen to know of a cheap dynamometer for small motors for sale. I want one for testing my motor and data logging. So far the cheapest one I can find is $3000.00

Any help would be great!

-Altrez

[wrtner]

Hello All,

Would anyone happen to know of a cheap dynamometer for small motors for sale. I want one for testing my motor and data logging. So far the cheapest one I can find is $3000.00

Any help would be great!

-Altrez

There are quite a lot on ebay for a fraction of that price. It depends on the power range that you need to work over.

You could start off with a simple to make prony brake:

Bench top dynomometer : Build the Prony brake

[altrez]

There are quite a lot on ebay for a fraction of that price. It depends on the power range that you need to work over.

You could start off with a simple to make prony brake:

Bench top dynomometer : Build the Prony brake

Hi wrtner!

Thanks for the link. I can not find ANY on eBay that are under 3 grand. What are you searching for to get hits? If I type in dynamometer I don't have much luck.



Thank you!

-Altrez

[ren]

found an old e-scooter on the side of the road, resplendent with batteries and all the trimmings. The stuff people throw out.....

Cut the ass end off and bolted it to some melamine. Still has the belt and wheel pulley attached so I can load the DC motor. Rated at 24v 120w.

Ran the basic 3bgs setup with some interesting observations. Obviously the motor isnt turning at full speed, but it has useable torque nonetheless. I replaced the "charging" battery with a large cap. Upon completion of the circuit the motor runs and the cap charges to more or less the source voltage. Motor stops. Discharge cap, and process repeats. So I put on one of JBs comparator circuits I had (homemade) and was able to charge my third battery quite nicely from it. With a regulated discharge pulse from the cap. The higher I charged the cap before discharge the slower the system would run.

So I can see how one could come to some sort of balance in the system. I like it. Im interested in what you guys come up with. Turion, you seem to be leading more towards JBs"1984" style system with a DC motor, a controller and a flywheel/generator arrangement. And thats something Id like to explore too. It could easily fit into your existing 3bgs arrangement as your primary load. I have some other parts I might try in this simple arrangement, I like where this is headed.

Regards

[Turion]

I don't see a picture. WIll try another browser

[wayne.ct]

General size parameters

Using this as a starting point:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post264757

I am trying to determine the consensus on how to size the components so I will be in the same general ballpark as everyone else.

I have 3 sealed lead acid batteries (SLAs) that are 12 volt 3Ah and I have a variety of permanent magnet motors that I can pick from. What should I look for when picking which one or two to use?