My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[MasterBlaster]

Give it a try

Norman,

Just get a couple of small motors and give this design a try. It is not so hard. I hope then you will be as fascinated as the most of us.

Regards.

[IndianaBoys]

Break the 130 year old paradigm now!

Here is where I am. I've been working at motors for about 8 years Bedini SG and made the Alexander motor wrong because I did not understand it properly. So now I study to understand properly before I work at the bench so my garage does not get filled up with any more boxes of failed ideas.

No one has been able to explain the simple 3/5 pole motor brush overlap operation to me
so I have to stick with what I can understand at the 2 pole 180 degree design level.
If I succeed there then perhaps I can understand the 3/5 pole design and progress from there.

Remember, I am going back to lidmotor's simple construction.

Thanks for alll of your efforts. I like the design of this motor but I'm in first grade.
I'd love to have a friend close by to work with but those kind of folks are few and
far between. I'd love to attend a workshop on this motor too similar to what
someone mentioned in this forum.

I'm struggling hard, cut me some slack

Norman

OK?

Norman6538,

Many are experiencing various levels of frustration replacing the 130 year old paradigm with Ufopolitics new paradigm at various levels. This is observable as seen by the lack of true replications.

Paradigm =
Dictionary - A worldview underlying the theories and methodology of a particular scientific subject.
Bob Proctor - A multitude of habits. You don't break paradigms, you break habits. You don't break habits, you replace habits. (analogy winding a motor the 130 year old way versus winding a motor the new Ufopolitics way)

Ufopolitics has done a great job educating and coaching us. He continues to give us various explanations of this new paradigm through his devices/machines/drawings/videos and understandings.

I believe for many, that if someone picks 1 motor to convert and does a thorough step by step video with explanation and shares that, we will see the amount of replications increase dramatically. If someone were to produce a video that will allow a novice all the way to an expert with the information to recreate this it will greatly assist in busting this old paradigm and replacing it with Ufopolitics new paradigm. Leave nothing out no matter how simple you may think it is.

Ufopolitics has brought us a new and upgraded paradigm on how to build a motor/generator/machine.

These videos below will assist to move in a positive direction and become an expert within this new paradigm.

Your way to success - break the paradigm!
Your way to success - break the paradigm! - YouTube

Bob Proctor - Change your Paradigm increase your awareness
Bob Proctor - Change your Paradigm increase your awareness - YouTube

Bob Proctor - Changing Paradigms Techniques
Bob Proctor - Changing Paradigms Techniques - YouTube

Norman6538, you can upgrade to the new paradigm Ufopolitics has gifted to all of us! You can do it! The more people that join in understanding and replicating this technology, the faster it will manifest.

Be part of the 100th Monkey Syndrome as relates to this new technology!

Everyone who visits this thread does contribute. Even the couch potato who ponders/thinks about all the possibilities of Ufopolitics motors/generators/machines over and over again along with the one's who jump into action and do the steps necessary to replicate this work. So no matter what little you think you know about this technology, you can be a positive contributor at whatever level you are at and really make a difference as David Icke explains in The 100th Monkey Syndrome below:

David Icke - The 100th Monkey Syndrome (Truth Vibrations)
David Icke - The 100th Monkey Syndrome (Truth Vibrations) - YouTube

Please, someone hear this call and produce the much needed educational video on replicating this technology so we can rapidly breakthrough this paradigm once and for all.

Thank you Norman6538, Ufopolitics and everyone else that visits these educational threads Ufopolitics has brought us,

IndianaBoys

[Gints]

Hello Gints,

Ok, you are pulsing your motors...that is great...what power input are you using...and can you adjust to low frequencies...starting from zero?

If You do...and you are using either 12 or 24 Volts...do the following.

Get a couple of your NTE576 and connect them to your Machine straight Output (no jumper between bottom terminals)

Connect Diodes blocking your Positive and Negative Outputs...or

Out (+)---l<---DVM Negative Probe (-)
Out (-) --->l---DVM Positive Probe (+)

Then measure with a DVM after diodes...as I wrote above...

You will get a "Positive" Reading there, and if you could "Scope" both measurements in different Channels...(before and after diodes) you will find out they are different voltage signals (by a few volts difference)

Now get a 120 V Neon...and install it after diodes...but pulsing very slow from zero up...dial the pot really slow till you get to see the Neon electrodes a Purple-White very bright Plasma Sphere...wobbling...And I mean this is so slow that Motor Shaft will be just "Pulsing Not whole rotation" at 5-10 degrees or even smaller turns...

That is Radiant Energy right there...Now the Orange light you see at electrodes bottom...is the bad filtering from diodes allowing some hot getting through...You could add two 1N4148...after the NTE576...and get just the purple plasma sphere...

Now the Anti-phase Signal (I have seen you are really going deep into my previous thread...which is great!)...That signal creates a better Network for Radiant to Flow in-out of my Machines...so there will not be a Hot Positive steadily at one side terminal of Input...

By making that test...you will understand that after Inductor reverses its Hot currents (when leaving input contacts)...Radiant is there Opposite to its already reversed flow...

Please let me know how Tests went on.

Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi, Ufopolitics,

Thank you for your answer. I will follow your instructions and inform you about progress.

Yesterday I made some tests comparing linear and pwm feed.

Ufopolitics Asymmetric Motor - Linear vs PWM feed - YouTube

BR

[Ufopolitics]

Nice Tests Gints!!

Hi, Ufopolitics,

Thank you for your answer. I will follow your instructions and inform you about progress.

Yesterday I made some tests comparing linear and pwm feed. The video will be available after couple of hours.

Ufopolitis Asymmetric Motor - Linear vs PWM feed - YouTube

BR

Hello Gints,

Again my Friend great tests, excellent video!

Now, the only thing I note is that you are using Polarized Caps...(I had to rewind video back...after I saw the Scope Signal was not "rectified" )

Please try with AC Caps...(No Negative or Positive Marks on them)...and You will see the difference...let me explain...

In the output of your Machine there are two currents traveling opposite (That is the test I mentioned in the Post before...with a Neon and two opposite to output diodes)...Radiant and Hot...what your meters are reading is just Hot...and if you use a polarized Cap...you will be storing ONLY Hot...NOT Radiant...SHE does not "Like Electrolytic Caps"...
And if you pulse a bigger Coil...like in my first thread...you will Blow Electrolytic Caps at Output after Diodes...Radiant Energy Cold Electricity is much Higher Frequency than Hot...

But the whole Test and video was very well done!

Thanks!

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Gints]

Linear vs. PWM

Hello Gints,

Again my Friend great tests, excellent video!

Now, the only thing I note is that you are using Polarized Caps...(I had to rewind video back...after I saw the Scope Signal was not "rectified" )

Please try with AC Caps...(No Negative or Positive Marks on them)...and You will see the difference...let me explain...

In the output of your Machine there are two currents traveling opposite (That is the test I mentioned in the Post before...with a Neon and two opposite to output diodes)...Radiant and Hot...what your meters are reading is just Hot...and if you use a polarized Cap...you will be storing ONLY Hot...NOT Radiant...SHE does not "Like Electrolytic Caps"...
And if you pulse a bigger Coil...like in my first thread...you will Blow Electrolytic Caps at Output after Diodes...Radiant Energy Cold Electricity is much Higher Frequency than Hot...

But the whole Test and video was very well done!

Thanks!

Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello, Ufopolitics,

Thank you again for your comments. Sorry about mistake in youtube video title. Yesterday was so late...
I will rearrange the things about you wrote.
Best regards.

[DadHav]

Caps

Hello Gints,

Again my Friend great tests, excellent video!

Now, the only thing I note is that you are using Polarized Caps...(I had to rewind video back...after I saw the Scope Signal was not "rectified" )

Please try with AC Caps...(No Negative or Positive Marks on them)...and You will see the difference...let me explain...

In the output of your Machine there are two currents traveling opposite (That is the test I mentioned in the Post before...with a Neon and two opposite to output diodes)...Radiant and Hot...what your meters are reading is just Hot...and if you use a polarized Cap...you will be storing ONLY Hot...NOT Radiant...SHE does not "Like Electrolytic Caps"...
And if you pulse a bigger Coil...like in my first thread...you will Blow Electrolytic Caps at Output after Diodes...Radiant Energy Cold Electricity is much Higher Frequency than Hot...

But the whole Test and video was very well done!

Thanks!

Regards


Ufopolitics

Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't you connect two capacitors + to + or - to - if you don't have time to order a factory non polarized cap?
J

[Dave45]

Hey UFO
Thought you might want to check this out http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post207179
with your asymmetric motors this may really take off.

dave

[Ufopolitics]

Nope...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't you connect two capacitors + to + or - to - if you don't have time to order a factory non polarized cap?
J

Hello Dad Hav,

No, you can NOT use Polarized Electrolytic Caps there...I mean YOU COULD...but it will not allow Radiant flow...
Output of this Machines produce TWO Current Flows reverse to each others, meaning where we get Positive Hot...we are also getting Negative Cold...and where Negative Hot we get Positive Cold...Only an "A/C Cap" will allow Dual Charge while rectifying the Spikes from both currents.

I am posting a Diagram to verify this in a few minutes.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello to All

Hello to ALL,

This is originally how I found Radiant Energy, and from that day on...I abandoned My Machines Project, after taking most of them apart... and dedicated to Study this beautiful event...

I started by making Stationary Coils...and through the regulation of Diodes and my Oscillators I was able to Isolate this Purple Plasma from Radiant Energy...All is there on my first Thread here

Now, in the following Diagram (as I will be also uploading a Video very soon, where I demonstrate this Phenomena in Real Lab Tests) it relates to the Output Energy Flow of this Machines (ALL My Asymmetric).

[IMG][/IMG]

The Purple flow at Neon occurs at very low pulses of your oscillator, meaning Machine shaft will 'barely' move...from there you could increase it slowly...as also an Orange glow from Hot will show up (normally at bottom of Neon Electrodes)...that is due to poor filtering from Diodes...I use the NTE576, but if you add the 1N4148 it will help the "Purity" of this High Glowing Purple light...However, your Meters will go "Blind"...

IMPORTANT: You can NOT increase PWM too high...as you will note the Orange will predominate ...while Purple will disappear...and you could "blind" the Neon preventing to show again Radiant Glow...

This is the reason why we are getting all this anomalies and phenomena as some negative readings in our Meters when charging Batteries or running a Load...but it is entirely due to this Energy...that we get Batteries charged and crystallized...as also all the anomalies that we have been observing at Turion (Dave) in the 3BGS Thread...

Now the "Live Wire" from Radiant is located right where We get the Positive Hot Output...I mean "live" because it will bright Neon up, by contacting the other terminal to Machine Chassis...or other ground near by...Not Negative...but Ground...your hands...However the highest point will be achieved with other Output terminal.

If We "Scope" this Live Signal...it is very different from the Hot Signal output coming from same wire...

Linear Feed to Input will NOT manifest as "vivid" as pulsing it...however it will light up an LED...also to ground...but very dim.


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks Dave!

Hey UFO
Thought you might want to check this out http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post207179
with your asymmetric motors this may really take off.

dave

Hello Dave,

Thanks, I was looking at it...it is a very interesting Thread...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

I don't know if you can see my setup for testing UFO's modified motor with all the junk in the background. (See picture) It's a lever arm with the spring scales on one end and a belt that goes around a pulley on the motor, and on the other end is a chain and a cable tightener that lets me torque down and increase the tension between the pulley on the motor and the spring scales. And MAINTAIN steady pressure.

First I tested a standard motor on 24 volts and torqued it down until the amp meter read 6 amps. Then took an rpm reading and a deflection reading on the scales. I recorded the starting voltages on the batteries under load, ran it for two minutes and recorded ending voltages under load.

Then I charged the batteries, let them rest for an hour and did the same thing with UFO's modified motor. All along he has been telling me it isn't fair to compare the two motors when they are running on 12 volts because the design he gave me was meant to out perform the stock motor at the listed specs of the stock motor which is 24 volts at 6 amps. If you can accept that, (which has been hard for me, because I though a motor would run at any voltage from 12-24, and it should be better at ANY voltage) then he is right. It is a DOG on 12 volts, but on 24, it DOES kick butt. While the start up amp draw was high for a second, when I torqued down and ran it at 6 amps the rpm was higher and the deflection greater. It used no more power during a two minute run than the standard motor. When you run it at 24 volts, he has something. I'm going to retest both motors today and try and shoot some video, but it's a pain in the butt trying to video those spring scales, the tach, and the volt and amp meter all at the same time. Believe me. I made several videos of the testing yesterday and none of them looked good. But I will give it another shot this morning, since my only other goals for today are to bake some bread and mow the yard.

Dave

[DadHav]

Hello Dad Hav,

No, you can NOT use Polarized Electrolytic Caps there...I mean YOU COULD...but it will not allow Radiant flow...
Output of this Machines produce TWO Current Flows reverse to each others, meaning where we get Positive Hot...we are also getting Negative Cold...and where Negative Hot we get Positive Cold...Only an "A/C Cap" will allow Dual Charge while rectifying the Spikes from both currents.

I am posting a Diagram to verify this in a few minutes.


Regards



Ufopolitics

Sorry UFO I think you may have misunderstood what I was saying. Connecting two capacitors with their plus sides soldered together and the negative wires sticking out has always been an acceptable way of making a non polarized capacitor as far as I know. I've used hundreds of them while I was building custom cross over networks in the 60's and 70's. You have to remember though, that the value of the capacitor is 1/2 that of one of the two that you connect together. If that isn't acceptable for this application then that's fine. I understand there could be some special case considerations here. I was just trying to offer a suggestion. Maybe this link will work.
How to Create a Non-Polar Capacitor From a Polar Type | eHow.co.uk
Take care everyone.
John

[Turion]

According to that article it said to solder the negatives together, leaving the positives free. I don't know if that makes a difference, but that's what it said.

Dave

[DadHav]

According to that article it said to solder the negatives together, leaving the positives free. I don't know if that makes a difference, but that's what it said.

Dave

Dave, You caught me. Actually your right it did say the opposite, but if you do a search you'll find that most say it doesn't matter which ones you solder together as long as they are both the same polarity. It was just a thought. you might want to get approval from UFO before you do this. I see you're moving right along with your tests. Good luck.
John Hav.

[Lightworker1]

Hi Tak





Grab a couple of these, 5 pole 2 stator nice commutator.
Like the radio shack motors big brother and cheaper(+_+)


Massive 12VDC Motor-The Electronic Goldmine

Mike Klimesh

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VIP SALE! Massive 12VDC Motor-The Electronic Goldmine

Kindest Regards