Discussion. Best way to use heat from HHO to generate electricity

[Slovenia]

Updating Thread

I've been very busy on other things, so I haven't continued to update this thread with the Power1 material from Over Unity. However, there is a lot going on at Over Unity with the Power1 crystals and transducers. So, if you are still interested in this project, you need to go to Over Unity and join in on the fun on the thread, "Practical Method for Production of Water Fuel". There are some guys working very hard with the brainstorming to come up with the exact transducers necessary to make the best water injector possible. They are looking for a piezo transducer that can be tuned to 43 Khz.

[FRC]

Star Trek

After seeing someone mention lithium for earth batteries, I remembered Rosenthal in the EFTV series saying lithium improved gas mileage. Would lithium
or lithium crystals aid HHO production ?

FRC

[FRC]

Post from OU

I'm calling the manufacturer for a few ultrasonic humidifiers.

I'll post what I find out from them. From what it sounds like so far -- You have to compensate at a higher input voltage, of offset the "inefficiencies" that ocurr at higher frequencies of the vibrating transducer.

I think it may be easiest (for the primary working model at least) to have an oscilator/humidifier that runs between 40-50 KHZ.

I asked about the frequencies, because if we are just using the crystals in HHO production, we can use a jewlery cleaner for the extra HHO liberation. Thereafter -- use the pond fogger, and the "ionizer" to pump the air + hho into the intake manifold of the engine.

(These are my plans)
I am not trying for a selfrunner -- just a proof-of-concept model, that you can run an engine on sheerly HHO, and water. Afterwards, I have generated sufficent interest in a working model, that I can investigate soley using the cheaper pond foggers, and the ionizers to produce the nescessary HHO to make it a selfrunner. This might have the potential cut out the pizeo-electric crystals entirely -- I do not yet know. Tests, and funds are further required for that.

I am simply trying to get SOMETHING to produce the HHO nescessary to make a primary model. So far, I can either modify the pond fogger (might not work, I have not found solid information -- after to days searching, it is a little frustrating. I don't know if I'm looking for the correct keywords or information about the foggers.)

Any ideas?
==Romo

What about vaporzers used for pot (smoking without the smoke). They are
expensive, but would they maybe be more efficient.

Vaporizers - Volcano Vaporizer - Herbal Vaporizers | Vaporizers.net

Or another device ultrasonic jewelery cleaner. Any comments ?

FRC

I had asked about these jewelery cleaners before post #157

FRC

[FRC]

Another type of Ultrasonic

Over at OU they are trying to get the right frequency 43 mhz. Maybe these would work.



FRC

[totoalas]

Ultrasonic Fogger

Over at OU they are trying to get the right frequency 43 mhz. Maybe these would work.



FRC

Hi to all
just new to te thread and will start son on experimenting wit this device

My idea two foggers at the bottom of a shigeta cell with te cell not soaked in electrlolyte but by mist alone
my question s will the mist have high condctivity t mae an electrlysis reaction between the plates???
hope somebody can enlighten me ps check imtotob youtube channel for some initial test with hho fogger

cheers

totoalas

[Slovenia]

Not Electrolysis Reaction

Hi Totoalas,

This Power1 water fuel device is not an electrolysis type system. It doesn't require plates or electrolyte either. It utilizes two pond foggers at the bottom of an open box type cell with nano zinc oxide crystals inside the water. The water used in this type of cell is just tap water and nothing exotic. The nano crystals help in the conversion of water to HHO during the piezo bombardment of the water and the zinc oxide crystals. It's a very unique interesting system. It looks like most of the players have moved over to the Over Unity thread now, so you might want to do likewise if you are interested in following what the other experimenters are doing and sharing with them. This thread looks like it's about tapped out. I haven't had time to feed it lately.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Hi to all
just new to te thread and will start son on experimenting wit this device

My idea two foggers at the bottom of a shigeta cell with te cell not soaked in electrlolyte but by mist alone
my question s will the mist have high condctivity t mae an electrlysis reaction between the plates???
hope somebody can enlighten me ps check imtotob youtube channel for some initial test with hho fogger

cheers

totoalas

[FRC]

Slovenia

The occasional update would be nice. I hate trying to navigate at OU. Its harder
to read anything there.

FRC

[Slovenia]

Updates

Hi FRC,

I'm glad to help you out with the updates. Thanks for mentioning that they were a help to you. I hadn't heard anything lately from anyone, so I cut back because this project was bogging me down in some other areas.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

The occasional update would be nice. I hate trying to navigate at OU. Its harder
to read anything there.

FRC

[Slovenia]

Updates

I am posting updates from Over Unity now. They are from the thread, "Practical Method for Production of Water Fuel". I'll post the most important aspects. Romo is on a Roll and so is Power1. Everyone else is trying to ascertain how to make their piezo operate at 43 Khz. I'll keep the updates to Romo & Power1.

[Slovenia]

Romo Post from OU (March 11, 2011)

March 11, 2011
Romo
Thank you for the quick replies, and the concern for saftey. I did not mean to
come off as stupid, hasty, or unrealistic. I was kind of rushed for cramming
for classes, and threw out a half solidified idea out there.
One of the things I meant to include -- (Yes, but no-one had known aside from
me...
) was that I was trying to hack open (break open) the MOT, to try to
scrap some of the coils to use in a smaller transformer.
It turns out, that even that wasn't too great of an idea, as the entire housing
was firmly welded shut. If I had an HHO torch (which I hope to have soon) it
might stand a fighting chance -- but as of yet -- that was mostly just a bad
idea.
Like I said, thank you for the concern. We all learn things as we work -- I just
learned I need to more thoroughly mull through my ideas before sharing
them. :O
With that apology @ all, I will mention that I am not very knowledgeable
(yet) about pizeo's or modifying them to be at a higher frequency. This one
goes on the backburner for a few days for me.
Onwards, Powerme is leaving a lot of tangents around. I know they are all
inter-related, and very important (from my perspective) towards the goal of
thinking in "higher octaves" (as walter russel would put it).
I think this is the goal here -- because this would reflect what powerme is
trying to teach us -- Self reliance, and the abillity to think through the
problems at hand. If we can do that (No offense powerme), but we wouldn't
need him -- nor to constantly ask him for answers.
As frustrating as that may be for the replicators -- as we want to first
completely make a system work exactly as the inventor had it work --
thinking in this manner would allow us to further improve on a design, while
we would see how it works.
While we may be thinking "OOh, Treasure!" for the system that powerme
has disclosed to us -- I beleive that he wants us to look for something different.
The KEY to the treasure is what he is trying to show us -- At least, this is what
I think.
If you have a single key, to a single treasure chest, you are entitled to all the
rewards within that chest. (Understanding the ) If you were to have, however
-- the key to ANY treasure chest -- you have the potential to reap all the
treasures of the world. This is to know the wheelwork of nature, so that we
may tap it into every facet for adapt to our needs.
In this case indeed, the key to the treasure, IS the real treasure. That is,
understanding why those matierals do that, is the treasure here.
The Problem is (for me) -- because I feel I am running out of time, and need
to get as much done as possible -- the sheer quantity of tangents is almost
overwhelming. This is not to say that
I CAN do the work over time, and learn about it -- but I feel that we are
pressed for exactly that -- time. Regardless, I will start with what I think I am
good at first.
I will begin with Powerme's little tangents he keeps leaving around.
Thereafter, if no one else has presented anything about pizeo's, I'll follow up
with more research about pizeoelectrics and see if I can help in that area.
Fishman, I look foreward to hearing what you find out.
It's the start of spring break for me, so I expect to be pouring a lot of time
into this project. I'm also beginning fasting for a week of spring break -- so I
should get more time in to read, because I don't have to prepare food.
=======================
Powerme's Tangents:
=======================
(Work in Progress -- will edit post by tonight)
==Romo
March 11, 2011
Romo Post on OverUnity (Post #113 Continued & U

[Slovenia]

[Slovenia]

[Slovenia]

Romo Post from OU (March 12, 2011)

March 12, 2011
Romo
I would also like to add, I'm no expert here.
I just think that all of powerme's ideas should be given careful consideration,
as they do seem to relate to understanding more about the universe around
us, and in us.
==Romo

[Slovenia]

Romo Post from OU (March 14, 2011)

March 14, 2011
Romo
Allrighty,
At first my procedures were very strict -- but now they're a lot more lax. I'm
going to post some pictures outlining my equipment, and what I do with them.
First things first: I don't know if anyone's ever inhaled ANY ammonium
hydroxide Nh3(OH) before
This is the only website that I needed some technical information from. I
suggest looking for more to understand what you need to until your curiosity
is satisfied. This has, thus far, worked excellently for me.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/ammonia_refrigeration/ammonia/index.ht

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0312012036.jpg)
At first I used this distilling system. Looks like a regular distilling system --
Kinda like you might use to make rubbing alcolhol, or make beer flat, and
non-alcolholic.
It worked allright, but I had some technical difficulties. It has to do with the
"boiling point" as listed above. At first, I had thoght I just had to heat up the
1-GAL container, and wait for the ammonium condense on the other side.
So my first 24 hours (last week) were spent, waiting for something to
condense out, and it wouldn't. With little critical thinking, I looked up the
table I have listed above -- and realized it will only condense into a liquid at a
significantly lower temperature. (Doh)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0312012101.jpg)
So then I put the two bottle contraptions into the mini fridge, and connected
them at the tops with my distilling-contraption.
This works as I have found, but good luck if anything freezes in the aluminum
pipe.
Warning: If you inhale 10% ammonium hydroxide, you will feel a burn in
your nostrils like you have inhaled essence bleach or wasabi.
The warning is, as follows: It is Very painful.
Breathe in twice, and you get lightheaded enough that you need to sit down,
in a well ventilated area -- and are incapicated for about 10-20 minutes.
Leave your eyes open when pouring to a different jar, and it burns your
eyeballs quite badly. (Not physical burn, but quite the sting.)
This is the only time, that I have been grateful that I had lab goggles for
chemistry. I have even resorted to using (swimming) goggles. Looks goofy,
works great.
That is working with the 10% stuff.
I have been working with my concentrated stuff with by breathe held, and
swimmers goggles, and clothespin over my nose. Like I said -- It looks goofy
but I don't even want to find out what it is to make a mistake with the
concentrated stuff. This has been your warning.
It turns out, you don't need all the aluminum tubing fancy stuff. Turns out,
After a moment of clear thinking -- most of my fancy add-ons were un-
nescessary.
The simplified version -- (The day that superman9976 posted the same thing!
Great idea! ) -- is throwing it in the fridge, and leaving it at a coldest
temperature I can set my fridge to. The water freezes and the ammonium
stays liquid. (laugh smiley)
If you want to Read his simplified procedure:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7422-growing-crystals-

piezoelectric-energy-harvesting-2.html#post134004
He also has some great points. Another source to contrast against the original
procedure.
And when it emerges, the water should be frozen, but not the other stuff.
The slush looks like this
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0313011230.jpg)
I take out the water while it is half-frozen (still slushie form), and strain it
through a metal strainer -- to filter out some ice. (Remember, do this outside)
I then put the solution into the second container. Put the second container
back in the freezer. Rinse and repeat.
Strainer:
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0312012358.jpg)
I do not know the exact concentration -- I poured in about 600 ml in the
beginning, and it was concentrated @ 10%. You gotta do a little bit of math,
to see that when the concentration is at about 200ML or LESS, then your
concentration is "enough". A little more won't hurt, but it WILL add more
pressure to your reflux condenser.
But, Speaking of the reflux condenser:
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0312012122.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0312012121.jpg)
Okay, so now that you've got the ammonium at the right concentration, what
next?
Go through the crystal procedure:
Cook at to 60* C, adding in the Zno. Slowly doesn't really matter. I can even
pop off the lid of the jar, and dump in 30 G at once, and then mix it up with
my "stirrer". I suggest "popping" the lid outside, as doing it inside will take
quite a while to clear out.
My "stirrer"
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0312012131.jpg)
Three magnets are on the left sides.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0312012132.jpg)
The one in my hand, I threw inside the jar too -- the ones on the drill stayed
like that.
Throw it into a big pot of water -- Cook it at 60* C.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0313011327.jpg)
The water/oil/whatever you use acts as a thermal buffer. It stores up a lot of
heat -- so your stove going on/off every so often doesn't matter. Just keep the
water around 60, and you can sit back and relax.
Note that I had the reflux thermometer, and the outside solution
thermometer.
The thermometer on the reflux jar tells me the internal temp. of the solution
-- and the outside candy thermometer (atop the pot of water) tells me how hot
the water "buffer" is. Comparing between the two has given me "good
enough" temp. control.
Eventually though -- if you don't wanna be that fancy, I found that keeping
the outside solution between 65-70C, and an ice cube on top of the 1/2 gal kept
it the "right" temperature.
Throw in the Zinc oxide when it gets hot enough. (60*)
Stir it every 5 mins or so. I spent this time reading, and getting up to pick up
my jar, and use the "stirrer".
Let it get down to 0* (Freezer/fridge)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0313011517.jpg)
Take the mix out when it has sat at 0* for about an hour.
Let it sit in warmer water, so as to avoid breaking your glass. Sit for 5 mins to
avoid thermal shock.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0313011358.jpg)
Cook it again @ 60* C, stirring it to break up the crystals from getting too
large. (every 5-10 mins for 2 hours.)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0313011653.jpg)
Even if you mess up a little bit, you still grow crystals.
Here, I have about 2-3 times the original.
Before:
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0313011351.jpg)
After:
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/petar113507/HHO-
ICE/0313011919.jpg)
Tests with them and with the pizeoelectric are on the prioroity list for the next
few days.
I grew the last batch to be slightly larger than the other crystals,so that they
might perhaps use a slower wave frequencey.
Next few days should tell me that.
I've got a good feeling about getting this done,
==Romo

[Slovenia]

Romo Post from OU (March 14, 2011)

March 14, 2011
Romo
Piezo
So I got fed up with looking at the blank pages, I couldn't find the right
information about the transformer, or pizeo circut.
So I cracked it open.
It looks like the transformer is just the transformer -- nothing to break up or
modify really in there.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...0313012049.jpg)
it would be then, potentially something inside the circut. I would need to,
therefore, break open the pizeoelectric transducer itself, and either modify, or
replace something in there.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...0313012053.jpg)
Does anyone have any leads that I can run with in doing this at all? I'm
looking for a certain resistor or potentiometer.
Can we brainstorm at all in how to get the pizeo tuned?
Closer,
==Romo
(P.S.-- Copper IS gold picture I was talking about:
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...perISGold.jpg))