Bedini 10-coil

[theremart]

Plazma,

I am looking forward to seeing how it goes for you. Please keep us posted.

[albertMunich]

Thank you Plazma for your nice words and great news.
I'm looking forward to what you have to say about the quality on Ricks machine.
I finally got my 3 coiler to run again- this time with the right transistors. I had a nasty problem- at first NOTHING worked and I started pulling my hair out. I have made some nice cooling fins for the MJL transistors using an aluminium profile. Since I want to be able to switch transistors without soldering, I used the fin as the attachment point for the collector wire. Well, I had to find out the hard way that these aluminum profiles are anodized in some way and DON't conduct electricity. I had to sand the anodizing layer off and now everything is fine again with the 470 ohm base resistors and a wire wound potentiometer.
The transistor makes ALL the difference. The BD 243 C transistor is definitely NOT the transistor to use. Even on a Bedini fan / one transistor setup, I have a different animal now with the MJL setup. When I unplug the charge battery on the simple 12 volt fan, the spikes go to 700 Volts! With the 243 C it was 120 volts maximum.
The big machine can now charge the battery bank two times faster, running on 36 volts and 3 A. Power consumption with the transformer included is a mere 45 watts. AND I begin to see the effect of conditioning as the charging times and the impedance of the battery bank goes down. Before I could not get below 30-40 mill-ohms, now I'm at 18 m-ohms. All this just by changing the transistor, and the wheel does not go into these ridiculous overspeeds anymore.
Sometimes just one bloody component makes a difference between a piece of junk and a useful machine.....

[dambit]

As the master of the shaft'; how is your Kromrey Converter coming' ?

It's been about 10 months since you gave an update on your Kromrey; does it charge batteries better then your Solid State Charger?

MK2 Solid State Charger
YouTube - SJohnM81's Channel

1:26 "You don't need the wheel anymore, but people still like to look at it!" - SJohnM81

- Schpankme

The phaonmneal pweor of teh hmuan mnid.

Hi mate,

Sorry bout the late reply, only just saw this post.

I can't believe it's been 10 months. Seems like only two or three. In all honesty I havn't touched my Kromrey converter in a while. It's all ready to go and is sitting neatly in one of my cupboards, I just have to get the coils rewound again and fit a new bearing. I'm still not sure on the best coil config, but the only one I have seen any results from was the very first one I tried. Each coil was 3-filar with 800 turns. They flew apart after only a little while and for whatever reason I never tried that config again. Now that I have better coil cores I will try it again.

So in answer to your question, no it doesn't charge better that my solid state charger. Not yet anyway

That particular charger in the vid has been the most tested unit I have built. My Grandad used it almost non-stop for the past year and restored at least 15 batteries from the dump. All around the 80 to 100AH rating. It's not the fastest charger around, but it definitly works.

Cheers,

Steve

[Plazma]

Status Update . . .

Hi Albert,

Congratulations on finding out how great an insulator that Al2O3 is - -

Ref your battery bank impedance, that's a very significant drop. Did you say what size/type of batteries being charged you were using?

As a data/reference point, John Bedini suggested that the internal impedance of a fully submerged lead/acid battery was 0.0023 Ohms (and, I suspect this number might be from a new and fully conditioned battery, too - that number posted on the Tesla Switch thread). Quite a challenge to accurately measure such a value given the hassels with contact resistances and other similar issues. Still, something to shoot for . . .

As for the 10-coiler, more packages of parts have arrived so I will start to build next week. I intend to go very slowly and methodically with progress reports posted phase by phase. We'll see how it goes - very excited about the 'potential' (pun intended).

Cheers,

Plazma

. . . The big machine can now charge the battery bank two times faster, running on 36 volts and 3 A. Power consumption with the transformer included is a mere 45 watts. AND I begin to see the effect of conditioning as the charging times and the impedance of the battery bank goes down. Before I could not get below 30-40 mill-ohms, now I'm at 18 m-ohms. All this just by changing the transistor, and the wheel does not go into these ridiculous overspeeds anymore.
Sometimes just one bloody component makes a difference between a piece of junk and a useful machine.....

[erfinder]

Since the wires are pretty thick there are not too many turns on each coil...

albertMunich,

Your coils are beautiful! You mentioned they were special order, can you tell me where you got them made, and how much they cost?

Regards...

[ren]

Hey Buddy,

From past chats with Albert I seem to remember him winding his own. I also noted his excellent craftsman ship.

Bedini replication in Germany

Ahhh....the good ole days

Regards

[albertMunich]

Hi friends,

the coils were made by me, the litzed wire was obtained from a company by an associate of mine. I don't know where he had it made.
My 3 coil machine is performing very well with the MJL transistors now. Just had it running back and forth for the whole afternoon, switched between the banks twice. Sum voltage dropped from 50. 62 to 49. 60 Volts. I run the machine on 24 to 36 volts now.
The solid state mode needs more investigation, any Bedini machine can be made to run in solid state mode without the wheel. Just play with the potentiometer or use some unpolarized capacitors in the trigger line.

Even my very first Bedini machine works like a charm now. ( The Bike wheel variant with two transistors.) Runs on 24 volts and can also be run solid state.
I can only repeat the transistors make all the difference.
To all experimenters out there: How long does it take until a battery bank responds to the conditioning? How many charge-discharge cycles? I am at 10-12 cycles on my 100 aH liquid filled battery bank now. This is so damn tedious...
I also found it better to use a battery bank on the driving side- my power supply seems incapable to supply the energy for the radiant spikes although it is fully capable to supply the voltage. So now I use the primary bank- suitably charged with a "normal" charger on the driving side. tomorrow I will look into the shop of the local car repair guy and see if he has some old batteries that might be recoverable. I have the battery tester John B uses and it indicates the battery impedance. Always a good way to look for a batt that will still be in a working condition. If there is a defective cell its no good.

[nvisser]

Hi friends,
The solid state mode needs more investigation, any Bedini machine can be made to run in solid state mode without the wheel. Just play with the potentiometer or use some unpolarized capacitors in the trigger line.

Albert
If you connect the bottom wire of the trigger coil to positive instead of negative , it turns solid state and you can run it with a low value base resistor to supply some current to it specially if you drive it from a solar array that can supply some current. JB said to use 1A per winding.
I build my first 9 wire coil. 1 Winding for trigger and connected it as described above (See patent:11_592_633_Circuits_and_related_methods_)
I also build a nice PC board for the electronics. I will post a photo tomorrow.
The idea is to built 10 of these over time and in the meantime run them solid state till I can get hold of a nice wheel one day to build the 10 coiler SSG.
My coils look a bit big compared to the ones on JB's photo. I also only had about 24# wire. I get it from the degauss coils of old crt monitors. The coils measure between 6 and 8 Ohms. Is that to much? For now this wire must do as I cannot afford to buy thicker wire.
I drive it from a pc power supply between the 12v and minus 12V. (24V)
I use 470 Ohm resistors on each base and chose the one base resistor that goes to all of them so that it does not draw to much current. It draws about 1.5A from the 24V supply.And It does impressive charging!
The only problem I see with a solid state multi coiler is that if you want to supply it with a lot of current the one base transistor has to be of high wattage.
The transistors I used are 2SC3886A's. They are dirt cheap here by us and can handle high voltage. It is a tv line driver transistor. Between the collector and emitter of the transistors are diodes instead of neon for protection in case the output goes open. When that happens one or more of this protection diodes will go short and put the pc power supply in current limit mode and so protect the transistors

[nvisser]

My first 10 coiler coil and pc board

My first 10 coiler coil and pc board

[theremart]

RE: 10 coiler..

My first 10 coiler coil and pc board

Ok, where are the other 2 transistors, I count only 8 !



Nice clean setup hope you don't have to use the quick change of the transistors. Are you going to use a wheel, or going solid state?

Mart

[nvisser]

This is the first 8 filar coil with trigger of the 10 coiler. Hence only 8 transistors.
The other 9 coils will be build over time. At this stage I run it solid state . See post before the photo. In time I plan to built a wheel as a friend of mine just bought a lathe and offered to make one out of super wood. Not sure yet what diameter to use.
The transistors are only screwed into connector blocks and are very easy to change, but I found that the protection diode between collector and emitter blows when the output goes open circuit and so protect the transistor.
Anybody that need the pcb layout , just give me a shout and I will mail it.
I cannot post it here as it is in pcb express.

[Plazma]

First Impressions . . .

@All . . .

I opened up 2 large boxes just received and found they contained what appears to be all of the frame, rotor, and coil mounting components plus magnets. There was also a very nice set of assembly drawings. Here are some observations:

Packing - all parts were well packed and protected . . .

Rotor - absolutely beautifully machined out of aluminum - and VERY heavy - a magnet holder and fly wheel in one . . . holds 20 magnets as mounted North end facing out inside of a (Delrin?) plastic holder that must be press fit into the rotor. Even the dove-tail like magnet holder cavities exhibit mirror-like finished surfaces - WOW!

Many of the black plastic parts look like cast Delrin (just a guess - stuff is expensive, but tough and strong) . . .

Part number sequences as marked on the individual parts seem to match the drawings . . .

2 Boxes of 5 coils per box - the welding rod cores had slipped some during shipment - not an overly big concern but one must pay very close attention to the bobbin core alignment as the welding rod cores come into play in establishing the the rotor-core gap as the core is clamped by a collar in the upper part of the coil/bobbin mounting assembly (i.e., the core is quite a bit longer than the coil bobbin). I'll post more on this as I get deeper into assembly, feeler gauges and micrometers at hand.

So far, the number of plastic parts of a particular (coil assembly) type match the number of coils/bobbins (10).

Major parts of the frame assembly use pins that interconnect one part to another. This is a very good practice to ensure fit as well as distribute stress so as to prevent unnecessary over-torquing of bolts and screws.

Well, enough first impressions for this post - I'll continue as I get deeper into the build.

Cheers,

Plazma

[theremart]

RE: Update

Thanks for the update Plazma! Looking forward to hear how it goes.

Mart

[juju]

battery swapper

i dont know why mr. bedini if so expert in this area, dont include a battery swapper circuit system, so it can detect when the source battery is running out, and exchange it automatically for a completed charged battery, and also use the same system to the extra charged battery that will power a load (light or device).

its that not simple to do and apply it to this kit?

king regards

[Schpankme]

I opened up 2 large boxes just received and found they contained what appears to be all of the frame, rotor, and coil mounting components plus magnets. There was also a very nice set of assembly drawings. Here are some observations: Packing, Rotor, Many black plastic parts look like cast Delrin and 2-Boxes of 5 coils per box

So far, the number of plastic parts of a particular (coil assembly) type match the number of coils/bobbins (10).

Major parts of the frame assembly use pins that interconnect one part to another. This is a very good practice to ensure fit as well as distribute stress so as to prevent unnecessary over-torquing of bolts and screws.

Well, enough first impressions for this post - I'll continue as I get deeper into the build.

Here's a picture of John Bedini, 10-pole picture for inspiration.

Schpankme

“You won't realize the distance you've walked until you take a look around and realize how far you've been.”