Bedini SSG Machines

[rickoff]

2nd diagram

That looks much better, Mart. Thanks. As can be seen in the 2nd diagram, the capacitor value is 1 picofarad, 20 kilovolt. The spark plug gap is suggested to be 1 to 2 millimeters, which would be .040 to .080 inch. I would start on the low side for the gap, using .025" to .035" which will give you lower voltage spikes, but the spikes will occur more often. See what your results are, then try larger gaps under similar weather conditions to see what the difference is in battery charging rate. It's important to compare under similar weather conditions, because colder days and inclement weather will naturally increase charging activity. Remember too, that whatever your spark plug gap is, the gaps in your overshoot device should be about .010" larger. As I said before, you can make your overshoot safety device form two parallel boards with adjustable bolts to make the gaps. You could also use three more spark plugs instead of the bolts. Here's a diagram of the solid state antenna charging system, with the overshoot protection seen at the left side of the diagram. [IMG] http://www.energeticforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=634&stc=1&d=1213558428[/IMG]

Best regards, Rickoff

[theremart]

Thanks Rick

That looks much better, Mart. Thanks. As can be seen in the 2nd diagram, the capacitor value is 1 picofarad, 20 kilovolt. The spark plug gap is suggested to be 1 to 2 millimeters, which would be .040 to .080 inch. I would start on the low side for the gap, using .025" to .035" which will give you lower voltage spikes, but the spikes will occur more often. See what your results are, then try larger gaps under similar weather conditions to see what the difference is in battery charging rate. It's important to compare under similar weather conditions, because colder days and inclement weather will naturally increase charging activity. Remember too, that whatever your spark plug gap is, the gaps in your overshoot device should be about .010" larger. As I said before, you can make your overshoot safety device form two parallel boards with adjustable bolts to make the gaps. You could also use three more spark plugs instead of the bolts. Here's a diagram of the solid state antenna charging system, with the overshoot protection seen at the left side of the diagram. [IMG] http://www.energeticforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=634&stc=1&d=1213558428[/IMG]

Best regards, Rickoff

----------------------


I am thinking I want to test this by taking one of my pickup coils from the ssg and dumping into the cap to see if I will get spark.

I did see that this would be just the thing for my windmill coils as it should not create a drag on the ssg but would discharge the current when it built up to the gap of the spark plug.

Again thank you for your info.

Mart

[vzon17]

antenna/ground battery charging

I found out that the circuit diagram on this link you posted is not correct.

battery charged by 200 ft antenna wire.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive


you want the input voltage from the spark plug go to the top cap of the ignition coil as one is using the ignition coil as a step down tratnsformer. the way the diagram incorrectly shows is, as hooked up to the side terminal which would boost the voltage up more.

So those two wires need to be swapped in the diagram. If you read the instructions on that third link then it explains it like that.

I wonder how many batteries can be charged like that.

[rickoff]

Reply to Vzon17

You are absolutely correct, and I thank you for pointing that out. I deleted that diagram from my Sky Drive. The other diagram which utilizes an automotive coil, spark plug, and diodes, does show the correct configuration. I don't know why I didn't notice the error before, except that my eyes are definitely not as good as they used to be, and I have a huge "floater" in my left eye that casts a blurry shadow upon whatever I am looking at. I hope that the faulty diagram did not confuse anyone. I did not draw that up, and am not sure where it actually came from.

Thanks again,

Rickoff

p.s. - Thoretically you could charge any number of batteries, but the charging would take longer for each battery added. You can offset that by raising and lengthening the antenna wire.

[rickoff]

Project update

I am taking a short break from my Bedini machine project to build and test a couple of hydrosonic water heaters. I need to determine if the plan is sufficient to heat the amount of water required for circulation in my hot water baseboard heated home during the colder months. If I have to build a larger design, I'd rather know that now so that I can make plan adjustments to my Bedini machine if needed. I know that a lot of people want to cut their heating costs, so will update both projects when available.

Best to everyone,

Rickoff

[rickoff]

AWG wire size notes

I found a great table which shows all the AWG wire sizes and their related properties. This is a great tool for anyone building a circuit that uses wires, or for someone selecting bobbin sizes and winding coils. You can quickly determine what wire size should be used to handle a certain amperage, and the table also shows you wire diameters, weight, resistance, and other pertinent factors. It is great to have handy when determining what bobbin size will be adequate for a desired number of turns of a specific AWG wire size. See the table here: AWG wire size and factors table.txt - Windows Live SkyDrive

Please note that the TPI factor (Turns Per Inch) in the AWG wire size table relates to a wire laid on a flat surface and spiraling around itself in a single layer. TPI does not relate to turns made when winding a bobbin coil, which is dependent on both the Inside height of the bobbin and the outside diameter of the core. If you divide the inside height of the bobbin by the wire diameter, this will give you the number of turns required to complete a single layer on the bobbin, which we can call Factor A. To determine how many layers will be required for a bobbin of X number of turns, simply divide X by Factor A, and this we will call Factor B. Unless you are using an automatic turns counter jig, it is easier to count layers than to keep track of turns. To determine if your bobbin is of adequate size to hold X number of turns of a specific AWG wire size, first estimate the height of bobbin you are planning to use and then find factors A and B. Once factor B is known, multiply factor B by the diameter of the wire. This will tell you the combined height of the layers, and we will call this Factor C. If you measure an empty bobbin from the outside of the core to the outside of the bobbin end cap, your bobbin size is adequate if the measurement is larger than Factor C. Please note that the table is good for estimating Factor A, but that the table only accounts for a bare wire diameter. To more precisely determine Factor A and Factor C, the insulated (coated) coil wire diameter must be measured with a micrometer. Naturally, if you are winding a coil with 2, 3, or more wires for each turn, then you must adjust Factor A accordingly. For example, a coil wound with 3 wires (Trifilar) of the same AWG size will yield 1/3 the number of turns per layer that a single wire would yield.

I hope this table, and the above information, will be helpful to many people who are searching for answers to their design questions.

Best regards, Rickoff

[theremart]

Coils at work.

Found this video...

YouTube - Water as Fuel Test 1

Interesting what a coil can do!

Mart

[rickoff]

Reply to Mart

Hi Mart,

Yes, that video is quite interesting. Note that the power connection to the capacitor is cut off before discharging the cap. That's the same effect that Ren mentioned in a recent post ( see http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post21748 ).

The experimenter says that the capacitor is rated at 400 volts, but that he is only charging it to about 105 volts. It appears that the experimenter attempted (and somewhat succeeded) to replicate the circuit setup shown in the s1r9a9m9 video (small engine running on water) seen at YouTube - Video 1.
Even more interesting is the fact that s1r9a9m9 watched the video, and wrote the following response:
" Nice set up. If you use a coil with two windings going through a main coil to boost the output spark up about 10 times what you have now you will have a system almost like mine. You can test your set up on a weed eater motor and know for sure that you have it. I like people like you who dont wait on slow folks like me. Thanks for the video and keep on sparking."
Those who are interested in researching and replicating this technology can learn more about it here: Water Car Technology From 1950 Resurrected

Happy sparking,

Rickoff

[theremart]

RE: interesting...

Hi Mart,

Yes, that video is quite interesting. Note that the power connection to the capacitor is cut off before discharging the cap. That's the same effect that Ren mentioned in a recent post ( see http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post21748 ).

The experimenter says that the capacitor is rated at 400 volts, but that he is only charging it to about 105 volts. It appears that the experimenter attempted (and somewhat succeeded) to replicate the circuit setup shown in the s1r9a9m9 video (small engine running on water) seen at YouTube - Video 1.
Even more interesting is the fact that s1r9a9m9 watched the video, and wrote the following response:
" Nice set up. If you use a coil with two windings going through a main coil to boost the output spark up about 10 times what you have now you will have a system almost like mine. You can test your set up on a weed eater motor and know for sure that you have it. I like people like you who dont wait on slow folks like me. Thanks for the video and keep on sparking."
Those who are interested in researching and replicating this technology can learn more about it here: Water Car Technology From 1950 Resurrected

Happy sparking,

Rickoff

This is one at 900V

YouTube - Water Cracker pt 2

[Sephiroth]

Just thought I would let you know that Geo (the mythbuster's expert) has replied to my query.
> Hi George,
>
>
> I saw your appearance on Mythbusters and was wondering why you presented
>that contraption instead of the Bedini Schoolgirl Motor? You are obviously an
>intelligent guy, so I don't understand how you could have thought that was an
>accurate depiction of the patent.
>
>
> I honestly don't understand it, and would appreciate your input.
>
>
> Yours Sincerely
>
> Introvertebrate

His Reply:

Hi Intro--

none of the contraptions were my choice to present. Honestly, I thought the
whole thing was a crock of ****. And, it contributed to the dismantling of
the 13 year friendship between Adam and I.

What's the Bedini Schoolgirl Motor?

//Geo

I have sent him some information on what the SSG actually is... it sounds like Adam showed him what to build so he hasn't actually seen the schematic!

[dmparr]

Hello everyone I'm new to this technology and the forum so if I'm asking a question that has already been discussed many times over please forgive me.

I've watched countless videos on youtube and i've been reading all of your posts and I have a question about building the rotor of the SG. I've seen the rotors can be anything from machined plastics to a computer CD or even a block of wood. But that kinda setup just isn't me, I have to make things difficult. I haven't seen the SG rotor made from steel though? Is that because regular mild steel is magnetic and would interfeir with the magnetic feild? If so why not use a 300 series stainless steel as it is non-magnetic in annealed form plus it is nice and heavy so it would carry alot of momentum, granted I know stainless steel isn't very cheap.

I have acess to a CNC Vertical Lathe with live tooling capability so makeing a precision rotor won't be a problem. My goal is to build a motor that can be used as an electric bicycle assist.

Thanks in advance for any help.
DJ

[gmeat]

Focus on what your trying to accomplish

Hello everyone I'm new to this technology and the forum so if I'm asking a question that has already been discussed many times over please forgive me.

I've watched countless videos on youtube and i've been reading all of your posts and I have a question about building the rotor of the SG. I've seen the rotors can be anything from machined plastics to a computer CD or even a block of wood. But that kinda setup just isn't me, I have to make things difficult. I haven't seen the SG rotor made from steel though? Is that because regular mild steel is magnetic and would interfeir with the magnetic feild? If so why not use a 300 series stainless steel as it is non-magnetic in annealed form plus it is nice and heavy so it would carry alot of momentum, granted I know stainless steel isn't very cheap.

I have acess to a CNC Vertical Lathe with live tooling capability so makeing a precision rotor won't be a problem. My goal is to build a motor that can be used as an electric bicycle assist.

Thanks in advance for any help.
DJ

Hello Dmparr,


Welcome to the forum.The idea behind the SSG is NOT torque in a motor per se but more about energy recovery and teaching people about radiant energy (or energy that conventional EE just throws away).In your case it seems like you want torque in a motor to propell a bicycle.While there is ALOT you can learn with the SSG concepts I would suggest leaning more towards the Electric motor secrets thread and reading the entire thread from start to finish to accomplish your end goal of producing a rather unique motor to propell your bicycle.Anyways, Thats just my 2 cents worth and maybe others will disagree with my point of view,But its nice to see a machinist in these forums that I'm sure You could be of great assistance in further development of these ideas.Again Welcome to the forums .


-Gary

[dmparr]

Thank you for the warm welcome. My ideas are to use the lindemann motor as the assist and perhaps implement the bedini SG to help recharge will riding.

Thanks DJ.

[Bodkins]

You could use water pipes probably as the regular ground.

I use galvanized steel rod for the ground rod negative for grounding the SG circuit to the earth...(no diode at all, just like John's schematics). Then use copper for the rod with the diode. Now you have an earth battery. You can use plates or rods or any other method. If multi-cell, use the neg as the earth ground negative and use the positive terminal of the earth battery as the connection with diode to charging battery +. This is the first time I ever described this out in the open.

Thank you Aaron
All the pieces are coming together Now all i need is time!

[theremart]

RE: this...

Just thought I would let you know that Geo (the mythbuster's expert) has replied to my query.
> Hi George,
>
>
> I saw your appearance on Mythbusters and was wondering why you presented
>that contraption instead of the Bedini Schoolgirl Motor? You are obviously an
>intelligent guy, so I don't understand how you could have thought that was an
>accurate depiction of the patent.
>
>
> I honestly don't understand it, and would appreciate your input.
>
>
> Yours Sincerely
>
> Introvertebrate

His Reply:



I have sent him some information on what the SSG actually is... it sounds like Adam showed him what to build so he hasn't actually seen the schematic!

--------------
I think what was done in the video was to destroy not the SSG, but rather the first booklet Bedini put out. The motor that would run itself. ( Now included in the FEG book )

From what you have found out, the degree of this crime just went up 7 magnitudes.....

: