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Printing
automan,
Bob was going to call you a week ago. I told him I was going to call you just to get caught up, but then my daughter lost her baby and I had to go out of town. Probably first of the week I will give you a call. Bob has been drawing everything up. I just don’t have any time.Last edited by Turion; 04-23-2019, 01:55 PM.
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If I can help
Hey Dave, I'm always available to help with CAD, printing or CNC if needed. Contact me anytime buddy.
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I want one
Turion,Originally posted by Turion View PostI tried several things attached to the core to try and absorb the heat. I tried this without lengthening the coil core and it seemed to work, but leaked like crazy. I do NOT know for sure how the longer core will affect coil output or the heat issue, but the water, and the fact that the bottle of water is also surrounded by air seemed to negate the heat issue completely. A death in the family has kept me out of town for the last week, but while I was gone my mom totally organized my shop, so when I get home I will be able to get back to work on this at least a little in the evenings now that I have some bench space to actually put a machine together again. It may take me a couple weeks as I have to wind an entire NEW set of coils as I melted the last set, but as I assemble this thing I am going to put together a set of instructional videos.
I have been talking with Bob French and we are considering putting together a small three coil prototype unit that we will use to demonstrate how all these principles work and that they DO work, and then find someone with a 3D printer who can make a “kit” for those who are interested. We have NO interest in getting into marketing anything to anybody. No TIME. But when we prove it all works, maybe someone will step up. We figure we may be able to produce power AND heat water with a properly built machine.
I've got the rotor still. Not done any shop work in months.
I would be interested in a kit.
Thanks
wantomakeLast edited by wantomake; 04-20-2019, 07:19 PM.
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Hi Dave,
Good idea for the plastic container. I 've just burned a spool today when testing a coil. Fortunately not the wire. Been testing only few last weeks with lots of time on fixing, rearranging, trying to secure and fixing again. A lot of work on mechanic part. Tried few different things with the negating magnets but could not find the right spot. Maybe i will try with much smaller magnets.
I use just a fat bolt for core on the coil for start, just learning swimming, and today I used the same bolt but more than double the size. Did not seem to diminish the output. But this is based on my original tests that had been made with bolt 1/2 longer than the coil already.
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$$$
I have no plans or even a desire to make $$ off the generator. It is there for everyone to build and benefit from. Or not. I have done MY part. What people choose to do or NOT do with it is up to them. I do intend to show a working unit over the next couple months as time allows, with measurements to put to rest all the BS I have put up with on this forum.
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Sorry for your loss
As for the coil cooling Sounds good, I hope you're able to make a few bucks in the process.
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Answer
I tried several things attached to the core to try and absorb the heat. I tried this without lengthening the coil core and it seemed to work, but leaked like crazy. I do NOT know for sure how the longer core will affect coil output or the heat issue, but the water, and the fact that the bottle of water is also surrounded by air seemed to negate the heat issue completely. A death in the family has kept me out of town for the last week, but while I was gone my mom totally organized my shop, so when I get home I will be able to get back to work on this at least a little in the evenings now that I have some bench space to actually put a machine together again. It may take me a couple weeks as I have to wind an entire NEW set of coils as I melted the last set, but as I assemble this thing I am going to put together a set of instructional videos.
I have been talking with Bob French and we are considering putting together a small three coil prototype unit that we will use to demonstrate how all these principles work and that they DO work, and then find someone with a 3D printer who can make a “kit” for those who are interested. We have NO interest in getting into marketing anything to anybody. No TIME. But when we prove it all works, maybe someone will step up. We figure we may be able to produce power AND heat water with a properly built machine.
Originally posted by Sawt2 View PostInteresting idea Dave, have you been experimenting with the idea? I may have to give it a try to see how long it takes to heat the water up.Last edited by Turion; 04-19-2019, 03:35 AM.
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Interesting idea Dave, have you been experimenting with the idea? I may have to give it a try to see how long it takes to heat the water up.
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If anyone is interested to see how I did mechanical switching (true I built it for 3 phase coil shorting, but there were other iterations for cap dump and cap / battery removal and reinstertion ), I have a comprehensive bench detailing the parts and procedure here:
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Thanks for Bob French's video Dave, very nice video. I will try doing this with a 12v doorbell I have in my workshop.
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Soft Iron & Ferrite powders
Finally found a good source that sells high quality, high purity iron in small quantities at a reasonable price and thought I would pass it on here in case anyone is interested.Originally posted by Turion View Post
Chemical Store Inc.
Iron Powder -- 5 Lbs, -- $29.00
Soft Magnetic Iron Powder -- 5 Lbs. -- $45.00
Fe 99.5+
Explore high-quality, certified chemicals at Chemical Store! Fast online ordering, expert support, and essential safety data available. Shop now for specialized and compliant chemical solutions.
SM1001 Soft Iron Powder
Ultra pure soft-magnetic iron powder used to manufacture electromagnet cores, transformer cores and other soft magnetic P/M parts that require high magnetic permeability, high induced magnetization and low coercive force. Apparent density is about 2.92, purity is more than 99%, U.S. Mesh size = about 100.
Typical Chemical Analysis:
Fe 99.4
Mn 0.04
S 0.009
O 0.06
C 0.00
Manufactured by Iron Powders of North America. Iron-Powder.com
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Switching
One of the BEST mechanical switches I have ever made was as a result of my work with Matt on his "Simple Motor". He used a set of automobile points opened by a cam on the end of the shaft. I found that this took too much work, so when Bob French and I began to do a replication of the simple motor a year or so ago we removed the spring from the points, and used a magnet on the rotor to repulse a magnet glued to the points, closing them to make contact. The virtual south on the rotor between the timing magnets will immediately open them back up. Almost any set of auto points can be used to do this and very, very small neo magnets. Auto points are set up to accept that spark without wearing out quickly, and there is a beautiful blue spark when you have the machine running correctly.
Bob French actually has a video of the switch working, but it is his video, so I hesitate to post links to someone else's stuff.Last edited by Turion; 04-01-2019, 12:01 PM.
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