My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[HagenT25]

G'Day Dana
My wife wont like this But I Just have to give you a big
My problem all along has been the resistor connecting the Oscillator to the mosfet circuit it should have been 10k but I only had 100R
Like I said before I think it is just the nut on the end of the soldering Iron

I am really pleased with the people on this list every one is patient and wants to help even the NumSkulls

Tomorrow I will connect the coil and the CLF bulb then I can start to

I think this is this the way to hook it up at least this is the way I see it
Please If you would just check it over for me to see If I am correct



Thanks a million to all those who have helped me

Regards

Just out of curiosity.
Why do you need a voltage regulator when you can grab DC from the first battery out of the three batteries?

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Hagen

Just out of curiosity.
Why do you need a voltage regulator when you can grab DC from the first battery out of the three batteries?

Hello Hagen,

The voltage regulator is the correct way to NOT discharge ONE single Battery out of the WHOLE BANK, a very simple LM317 and a couple of resistors and Caps, will feed steadily the necessary and EXACT, Voltage-Currents,required from Oscillator IC, in a MUCH BETTER FILTERED WAY, that just getting it directly (IN ELECTRONIC RUSH AVALANCHE) from just one Battery, As this will create an UNEVEN decrease in the Main Bank Supply...

Other words, getting the "juices" from just one Battery is, besides a Lazy Choice, not a well Laid Out, electronic design of manipulation and management from Battery Source...

Understand?

Cheers


UFO

[HagenT25]

Hello Hagen,

The voltage regulator is the correct way to NOT discharge ONE single Battery out of the WHOLE BANK, a very simple LM317 and a couple of resistors and Caps, will feed steadily the necessary and EXACT, Voltage-Currents,required from Oscillator IC, in a MUCH BETTER FILTERED WAY, that just getting it directly (IN ELECTRONIC RUSH AVALANCHE) from just one Battery, As this will create an UNEVEN decrease in the Main Bank Supply...

Other words, getting the "juices" from just one Battery is, besides a Lazy Choice, not a well Laid Out, electronic design of manipulation and management from Battery Source...

Understand?

Cheers


UFO

Thanks UFO,

I know that you would not want to take any sort of real power from any one battery, but I was thinking just how much power can a 555 use up? Of course it may not be as stable as the voltage regulator, and that may cause some issues, and you may have to deal with some ripple. I guess it's the poor man's choice, or the I'm waiting for Fed Ex choice .

Hagen

[HagenT25]

Cree CMF10120D MOSFET

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr.../CMF10120D.pdf



I just got of couple of these the other day.

Any feed back this MOSFET would be appreciated.

I read in the specs that it likes to see +20 volts GS for turn on.

Thanks!

[codeboundfuture]

CREE Fets

Hello Hagen,

I was taking a look at those FETs and in the application notes that the 20V turn on should be something closer to 22, the starting turn on voltage is around 2.5V, but is not fully on until 16V. I'm not an electronics expert by any means, JohnStone mentioned similar information about the gate swing speed needing to be fast and hard(enough current), it looks like you will just have to be sure to take good care in the design of your oscillator to mitigate these factors but in my opinion they are good, the fast rise/fall time is important and the voltage/amperage availability are nice.

Just be sure you can drive them well, to me they look like they will be a tad more difficult but I know little of the tribulations of circuitry design.

best wishes,
matt

P.S. Did you find a good price on those mosfets? I was looking at them when I purchased SiC zero recovery diodes from Infineon and Cree but they were hella pricey, I think $6 for the 600V mosfets.

[HagenT25]

Hello Hagen,

I was taking a look at those FETs and in the application notes that the 20V turn on should be something closer to 22, the starting turn on voltage is around 2.5V, but is not fully on until 16V. I'm not an electronics expert by any means, JohnStone mentioned similar information about the gate swing speed needing to be fast and hard(enough current), it looks like you will just have to be sure to take good care in the design of your oscillator to mitigate these factors but in my opinion they are good, the fast rise/fall time is important and the voltage/amperage availability are nice.

Just be sure you can drive them well, to me they look like they will be a tad more difficult but I know little of the tribulations of circuitry design.

best wishes,
matt

P.S. Did you find a good price on those mosfets? I was looking at them when I purchased SiC zero recovery diodes from Infineon and Cree but they were hella pricey, I think $6 for the 600V mosfets.

Hi Matt,

I got them from Digikey. There were a little expensive, but I wanted a mosfet that had a high voltage rating. I hate it when I blow them up.

Hagen

[codeboundfuture]

Hi Matt,

I got them from Digikey. There were a little expensive, but I wanted a mosfet that had a high voltage rating. I hate it when I blow them up.

Hagen

I don't blame you, and thank you for causing me to look them up, I forgot I had a 15% rebate from Newark.com that is only good for things that you don't buy enough of to get a discount on them, which I couldn't afford 10 of those mosfets to have to worry about that, it was a good opportunity to use it.

Having said that though the coupon will work for anyone and those big FETS are probably one of the best opportunities to use the discount.

From http://www.newark.com sent to my email. Hopefully this can help some people out. I saved about $3 each on the CMF10120D mosfets.

"The Voucher code is NEW2P and it can be used as many times as you would like through August 31,2012, feel free to share with whomever you would like."

peace,
matt

[yipyipdog]

Hello Everyone

I don't recall if I have ever posted anything on this forum before, I mostly just read. But this is one Thread I will definitely be participating in. Wanted to say hello to everyone. I am trying to catch up on things before I ask questions/make comments. I currently am on page 10 of the thread.

A little background on myself - 48yrs old, been working in the electrical field for almost 30 years starting with generator repair (small to large - size of a truck), electrical contractor for 20 years with an electronics engineering degree from the University of Akron, Ohio.



p.s. what is a trackback?

[Ufopolitics]

Welcome!

I don't recall if I have ever posted anything on this forum before, I mostly just read. But this is one Thread I will definitely be participating in. Wanted to say hello to everyone. I am trying to catch up on things before I ask questions/make comments. I currently am on page 10 of the thread.

A little background on myself - 48yrs old, been working in the electrical field for almost 30 years starting with generator repair (small to large - size of a truck), electrical contractor for 20 years with an electronics engineering degree from the University of Akron, Ohio.



p.s. what is a trackback?

Hello and welcome friend,

Please. feel free to read first as much as you could...not all the crappy arguments though...but the "essence"...
A track back is an automatic "text robot" that sends you messages when someone posts here...so you could come and look at them...

After you done here most of Us are at My Asymmetric Machines, fighting... ...We need people with your experience there also.

Regards


UFO

[crash&burn]

hello everyone,

I have also been trying to catch up. I do not have much computer skills but i do have hands on experience in " different shops", and lot's of friends with very nice shops, machining and electrical.

Is This correct (roughly, for layman like me)?
The field magnet got improved to permanent magnets, and now we improve that by using a field magnet(energized coil), with the permanent magnets, plus use "isolated armature windings", not one big single coil thus eliminating the bemf. That was alot to say and probably not right, but this is very different, and looks really nice, to build.

I am getting a friend to help me build the circuit to pulse the coil as I write this. He owns an electronics shop, and is into homemade radio, he is also interested now, i showed him your videos, on YT.

In your other thread, you mentioned running a vehicle, and that would be really "sweeeeeet".

I have the rs motors to try an "asymetrical wind", looks fun!
I am waiting for info/prices on imperial motors now, p56sd704?, to start.

Your last video was beyond cool, I even have a body shop friend, i am sure he will help me with the mold if i ask nice.

Can I ask one personal question ufo?
Are you a professer, you seem like a professer to me, what do you do?


CB

[Ufopolitics]

Hello and Welcome Dear,

hello everyone,

I have also been trying to catch up. I do not have much computer skills but i do have hands on experience in " different shops", and lot's of friends with very nice shops, machining and electrical.

Is This correct (roughly, for layman like me)?
The field magnet got improved to permanent magnets, and now we improve that by using a field magnet(energized coil), with the permanent magnets, plus use "isolated armature windings", not one big single coil thus eliminating the bemf. That was alot to say and probably not right, but this is very different, and looks really nice, to build.

I am getting a friend to help me build the circuit to pulse the coil as I write this. He owns an electronics shop, and is into homemade radio, he is also interested now, i showed him your videos, on YT.

In your other thread, you mentioned running a vehicle, and that would be really "sweeeeeet".

I have the rs motors to try an "asymetrical wind", looks fun!
I am waiting for info/prices on imperial motors now, p56sd704?, to start.

Your last video was beyond cool, I even have a body shop friend, i am sure he will help me with the mold if i ask nice.

Can I ask one personal question ufo?
Are you a professer, you seem like a professer to me, what do you do?


CB

Hello and Welcome Dear Crash&Burn,

I wish I would be a Professor...but they would have trow me out by now...

I am just a "Random Guy"...out there

Permanent Magnets are Ok, but they add constant magnetic drag with steel...and worst than that...Models are not scalable to huge sizes...so it limits their size...
Coils like you saw on my Video are very scalable...and besides with two diodes you obtain Radiant Energy reversed flow...that could be used to light up or re-charge system through the proper Electronics Filtering and BMS (Battery Management System)

That is great you have so many friends in the same fields!!...and willing and interested to help you!!...but those are awesome news!!
The Oscillators I use are just based on Cheap 555 timers in Astable Mode...no big deal, you will find here My Diagrams...also look at the "Updated" Voltage Regulator Schematics...where there is also a slight resistor deal, one is 220 Ohms and the other one is 2200 Ohms or 2.2K...I wrote both at 220 ohms...my bad. but is rectified in a lower post.

Yes you will be able to run vehicles...so get ready...start first at smaller scale...then upgrade.

Now the Fiberglass Stator could be done off original Volumes...a Cylinder, sand it down, but make sure you have found your perfect Armature first...with enough shaft length to host a second Commutator...and some Fiber sheets...cut them glue them with same small fibers and polyester resin...Marine Supplies have all, fabric..and resin plus hardeners.

Many Regards and Welcome again!!

UFO

[crash&burn]

I have one friend who has a water jet cutter. He can cut anything you could imagine. What if I used a composite fiber from areospace industry? Just get a big block and cut out one piece with the fins? It is heavy but incredible strong. Actually, that may have carbon in it.

The air gap could be as tight as you want with the water cutter.

Also, due any number of armatures work, how did you get your winding patterns?

The closest thing I could find is universal motor with a 2-pole field stator.
But you have changed it completley.

We were kind of "surprised" by an asymetrical winding.

Sorry, lots of questions.

Thank you
CB et al

[Ufopolitics]

C&B et Al

I have one friend who has a water jet cutter. He can cut anything you could imagine. What if I used a composite fiber from areospace industry? Just get a big block and cut out one piece with the fins? It is heavy but incredible strong. Actually, that may have carbon in it.

The air gap could be as tight as you want with the water cutter.

Also, due any number of armatures work, how did you get your winding patterns?

The closest thing I could find is universal motor with a 2-pole field stator.
But you have changed it completley.

We were kind of "surprised" by an asymetrical winding.

Sorry, lots of questions.

Thank you
CB et al

Hello C&B et Al,

Waterjet is great, having the CAD exactly to cut is excellent, I am going to render the Pattern to follow that approach also. I have used WJ before in many Motors I have built from scratch...Armatures and Stators.

Ah...the only thing that you could NOT use as Material for the Stator Core, is Carbon Fiber Mesh, Fabric...it has the rare property to instantly kill Radiant Field Induction to exactly ZERO...I have several cylinders of CF...made with fabric...I have tested them all...it dies right away...and this is due that CF is like a Superconductor for Radiant-Cold Electricity...it will short out instantly...and it is faster than Hot...

You could use KEVLAR, but it is very hard to cut...unless you get the right tooling/blades...

Winding Patterns comes from Ancient Sacred Geo...to new configured based on certain rules of Asymmetry...like no parallel axis of Pairs of Coils at In/Out...so we have to look for specific designs where this does not occur...

Asymmetry...is beautiful...you will see it working.


Regards


UFO

[yipyipdog]

Hello Dave45,

No, I have not tried two toroid magnets in opposition, however, let me explain the behavior so you could judge what will happen when you do...
The Coil is oriented by Hot pulses to be North Top, South Bottom, which is equal to: [N/S]. Now the Magnet that I put in must be oriented same as Hot Pulsed Field, or [N/S] in order to be ascended and staying into levitation.
If I put it the other way around, or [S/N] it will just vibrate but no levitation, will stay in the floor...
Therefore (and answering your question)...The magnet (toroid) that would be opposing to right oriented one will not ascend, nor levitate, just vibrate...if they would be attracted to each other configuring one magnet , with same orientation...it will suck them both in, and levitate them.

To understand this behavior we must analyze the Radiant Magnetic Field, opposing the Hot pulsed field, or same as [S/N].

Hot Field=[N/S]
Radiant Field=[S/N]

However, Radiant Field is located right at very center of Hot, which looks like:

N(Hot)/S(Radiant)/N(Radiant)/S(Hot)

That configures the positioning of the Chain of magnetic links on this Coil.

The magnet oriented N/S will levitate because of Radiant EM Field being stronger than Hot EM Field...Radiant S (on top center) will attract N of levitating magnet, while N Radiant (on bottom-center), will attract S of magnet...However, Hot field will 'compensate' the magnetic fields on the floating magnet by establishing a N/S repulsion at the upper-lower extremes...

That is what I understand so far, related to this phenomena.

I hope it helped your question.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello again UFO,

I have seen your video and now seem to finally understand what is happening here after reading you explanation. It is quite apparent that the negative (cold) south pole has to be much stronger than the positive (hot) north pole in the upper region (vise-versa in the lower portion) of the coil in order for the pm to orientate itself as it does.

First off, I wish to express my appreciation of your willingness to share here. Our world would have been much different today if not for the greed of others who have made similar discoveries and held their personal profit above all else by patenting their devices without fully disclosing everything about their operation. This sadly references individuals such as Tesla, Gray, Sweet, and the list goes on and on. Cold electricity still today is barely understood as most discoverers wish to keep their findings secret and those secrets are lost with their passing. One can only hope someone else will rediscover them again.

Let me state that I am just as much a novice when working with cold electricity as I am an expert at working with hot. Yes, I have destroyed my share of electrical meters (flukes and cheepos), but I still have no idea what I am actually looking for or how to find it. In reading these posts (on page 12 now) I am picking up tidbits here and there, but feel that a lack of understanding of the nature of cold is my biggest hurdle.

UFO, if you could please write a few paragraphs explaining the true nature of cold as you currently understand it I believe this would help many here to understand what their devices are striving to accomplish. Like how it manifests, flows, is stored, is manipulated, etc. Don't get me wrong here. I firmly believe that in order for one to really understand that they must build and obverse things their selves. There is no substitute for hands-on experience. With that being said, I also believe that hands-on is not very productive without first understanding the underlying principles of that which they are working with. Many layman could build functional radio set from a kit with the provided wiring diagram, and yet have no concept of what makes it work.

Cheers to everyone and especially UFO

Electricman442

[sputnik]

hey bobfrench, how's your sewing skills?

Hi. I am making my list of things to order, gonna especially start right here with the coil experiments, even though I am TOTALLY thrilled with the motor thread. I think UFOPolitics did the right thing starting with this. I'll get to the motors soon.
But anyhow, I'm really interested in what the TOW can do and I've seen bobfrench talk about it and the problem with insulating it.

Bob, have you ever done any sewing? ahem. Well, I spent a few years renovating the early 70's RV that I now live in, it isn't like renewing a car, nor a house, it's a very unique experience and you must acquire skills you never thought you would.

So you see Bob, just like you, I'm QUITE interested in "off-the-grid", this homestead's on wheels and there AIN'T no grid.

There's a technique in sewing called welting. Here's a picture of welting.
Everyone's seen it even if they didn't know the proper name for it, many car & boat seats have it as well as furniture.
They normally just sew the same material as the seat cover around a plastic straw. Normally a 1/4" flap of material is left one edge, they use this to sew it onto the seat cushion, whatever. I've never done it, but there are video instructions on youtube.

Before you start thinking that this sounds like a lot of trouble, and it would be if there weren't tools for accomplishing it, they make special welting foot attachments for sewing machines like these. I should think a foot or two a minute or probably much better might be obtained. There are really cheap grades of cloth, the cost of that would be negligible. Probably just cut it into one-inch strips, something like that. The welting feet come in 1/8" - 1/2" slot sizes, maybe more, and they cost about $15. Like this one that fits my machine. Now you just gotta find somebody with a sewing machine...

For you non-sewers out there, a foot kind of holds down 2 pieces of cloth as they go through the area where the sewing needle punches the thread through them. In this case, there is a half-moon slot on the bottom of the foot, so once you clamp it down with the TOW and cloth in place, it SHOULD be a no-brainer to just keep feeding tow and cloth through, no fancy sewing skills needed. It sews very close, I mean very close around the straw (TOW). You've all seen how tightly it appears to be attached to the straw on your car seats. So when finished it should be easy to cut off the excess cloth with scissors and have something very similar to an insulated wire with a tight thread "joint" on one edge. Come to think of it, you could probably even sew plastic sheet around it.

Well, anyhow, I'm in the planning/ordering stages and that occurred to me, so I thought I'd pass it on in case you're interested. I think that's the way I'm going, perhaps even dip it in some paraffin when the sewing is done.
Besides, just think how cool to be using cloth covered "wire", just like the inventors of the Golden Age...