SSG Modification anomaly

[greekstile]

It should be traditional current. But running it through the inductor in this fashion no doubt causes a big radiant spike. I suppose you could just run the inductor directly in series to the cap of that circuit as well, before the primary. Ill try that today.

Also, if you disconnect the charge battery, the neons flash a brilliant blue when the cap dumps back in, noticeably more so through that inductor. Wish I had a scope.

Jason S.

[gyula]

Hi Gyula, i was about to follow your instructions on checking power output with and without the bifilar connected but i first wanted to confirm what i was seeing on the input side and it's not good I really thought i was on to something amazing. I took a 100v 10,000uf cap and placed it in parallel with the input battery but i placed the ammeter in between the positive of the battery and cap positive. The current from the battery to the cap flowed a constant 51ma and increased slightly to 53ma when the bifilar was connected so no drastic drop like i was seeing on my instruments. I am going to abandon this project as i don't see anything there any more although the first experiment in my first post on this thread still holds some value and needs further investigation.

Hi Zooty,

Ok, no problem on the misplacement of the ammeter, to err is human.

Keep you good ideas coming.

Thanks, Gyula

[greekstile]

Ok, this effect is very noticeable. Is you run the inductor directly in series with the primary battery, back popping the cap dump circuit directly back to it, you can easily sustain or charge the primary off it.

Basically what this does is increase the voltage in the cap, significantly. So much so, I had to adjust the timing of my dump from 15-1 to 5-1. It seems the larger the coil, the bigger the voltage increase.

Has anyone else had a chance to try this yet?

Jason S.

It should be traditional current. But running it through the inductor in this fashion no doubt causes a big radiant spike. I suppose you could just run the inductor directly in series to the cap of that circuit as well, before the primary. Ill try that today.

Also, if you disconnect the charge battery, the neons flash a brilliant blue when the cap dumps back in, noticeably more so through that inductor. Wish I had a scope.

Jason S.

[minoly]

Inductor on primary

Jason,
Ah, yes, I mention this here at the bottom
what method are you using to turn the power off before you "back-pop" - if you're not already doing that, give it a try, now your home free

you can use a single diode or a whole FWBR. the process is the same. the difference you have is the core/increased inductance of your coil. Even if you put a bridge your neon will light w/o the additional charge battery. so the SG ckt is expecting it. you answer your question when you said they are somewhat in series.

now you said something that caught my eye. are saying your amp draw goes down when you add this inductor? or did I read wrong?


try putting that inductor on the negative leg of the primary battery, due to the core, and increased inductance the current is slowed - the radiant has a chance to build up, then you will see your neon will glow white, we actually blew a couple last year. this is something discussed over on BM2 yahoo.

Thanks for sharing

[chasson321]

neon

I drastically dropped the input current without affecting the output. I took the bifilar iron core coil and wired both strands in parallel across the power coil and the input has gone down to 20ma. When i disconnect the coil, the input rises to 100ma and the neon stays the same in brightness! I have found that the lower the resistance of the coil across the power coil, the lower the current draw.

I am surprised that your transistor or your bulb has not gone bad being that your neon is on all the time. Do you think that your voltage is not as high?

Tim

[Zooty]

Ok, this effect is very noticeable. Is you run the inductor directly in series with the primary battery, back popping the cap dump circuit directly back to it, you can easily sustain or charge the primary off it.

Basically what this does is increase the voltage in the cap, significantly. So much so, I had to adjust the timing of my dump from 15-1 to 5-1. It seems the larger the coil, the bigger the voltage increase.

Has anyone else had a chance to try this yet?

Jason S.

You gave me a simple idea and it seems to be working great. Set up a normal bedini ssg circuit with run and charge battery but put a iron core inductor in series with the run battery. No cap dump circuits or anything. Make sure the coil is low impedance and you may have to decrease the base resistance. I decrease it from 550ohm to 150ohm to stop the self oscillating. The circuit is drawing 250ma and the run battery does not seem to be going down. It's been running for 30 mins, i'll report back. If i think what is happening is real, it's a nice find

[Zooty]

Backpopping?

After further inspection i have taken some scope shots of the current coming out and going back in to the run battery. I placed a 1 ohm resistor from the battery positive terminal to the inductor. It looks like there is more current going back to the battery than what is coming out You can see the negative spikes between the transistor off's.

[Zooty]

Primary is charging!

The primary has gone up by 0.01v!!! and the charge battery is still charging. My run battery is a 12v 2.3ah sla and the charge battery is a 12v 7ah sla. Can someone replicate and verify?

**UPDATE**

Primary has dropped back to it's original voltage but the charging battery is still going up. Even if the primary drops at 0.01v every hour, the charging battery is more than making up for it. I am now thinking of charging a cap instead of a battery and dumping it back to the primary.

[FRC]

Sounds Good

Zooty, good to see you back at it again. Almost sounded like you had given up.
Looks like you are still getting interesting results this time. Keep it up.

FRC

[greekstile]

Patrick,

I'm using the 15-1 timing gear kit on the 3pm, dumping back to primary specifically during the off cycles. Curently dumping at a 5-1 ratio due to the voltage.

By the way, I recommend playing around with different inductor sizes. The larger the inductor, the better the charge. Just have to be careful, because you don't want too much going back to primary to overload it. I recommend going big, and adjusting the insertion of your core to control the voltage back to the primary.

So simple, yet so effective.

Jason S.

Jason,
Ah, yes, I mention this here at the bottom
what method are you using to turn the power off before you "back-pop" - if you're not already doing that, give it a try, now your home free

[Watson]

It should be traditional current. But running it through the inductor in this fashion no doubt causes a big radiant spike. I suppose you could just run the inductor directly in series to the cap of that circuit as well, before the primary. Ill try that today.

Also, if you disconnect the charge battery, the neons flash a brilliant blue when the cap dumps back in, noticeably more so through that inductor. Wish I had a scope.

Jason S.

When the neon light goes from red to flashing a bright blue, the current is getting really excessive. The lamp may overheat, and I've seen the metal melt inside. Remember that when the neon gas starts conducting, the plasma is very low resistance and can conduct very high current.

If the neon lamp fails, you lose your overvoltage protection, The next thing to fail will be the transistor. But I probably don't have to tell anyone here about that, since they seem to have been there, done that.

[sucahyo]

owever, building on this idea, i put the same inductor in series with the primary battery. Basically the same effect, but no neon flashing. However, with the timing wheel and generator coil cap dump circuit, this really made a huge difference. Back popping this back to the primary through the inductor really made something special happen. I was able to charge both the primary and charging battery simultaneously. That inductor really amplified that back pop, and big. I suggest others try this out.

Jason S.

Jason, is this what you mean?
charging cap:


dumping:

[FRC]

Anomaly ?

Maybe not an anomaly after all. Take a look at Energy from the Vacuum # 7
Tesla's Impulse Technology. John Bedini explains a lot of what we were seeing
in this thread, and how to better to exploit it !

FRC

[Farmhand]

Hi all, another thing you can do with the pulsing of the input voltage from the coil draw is you can slave another SSG just by connecting it to the same input wire's the pulses caused by the first one will trigger the second one to work at the same frequency or if it is incapable of the full freqency of the first it will work at half frequency, but will be slightly out of phase with the first. There is much that can be done with the pulses in various places on an SSG or any other pulsing circuit, really, I paticularly like my SSG because I can run it at any point between 50 or 60 Hz and it's quite stable, of course 50 to 60 Hz is a very usefull frequency for a couple of reasons.

Excelent discoveries, and good work guys.

This is a Tesla Drawing which shows choking coils on the input conductors.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pICp7KEyWy72MtFDEzh6q0PENi_1S9kUxlKhCiPVZKkIatM-HMV5yaKCCy3W3Pf4qFSMJOqaLXJlxhAlCrz7ALQ/Highfreqtesla4.gif?psid=1

....Oh I forgot to mention i'm fairly sure the device in the drawing above works from an Alternating Current source.

Cheers

[FRC]

Thanks Farmhand

Hi all, another thing you can do with the pulsing of the input voltage from the coil draw is you can slave another SSG just by connecting it to the same input wire's the pulses caused by the first one will trigger the second one to work at the same frequency or if it is incapable of the full freqency of the first it will work at half frequency, but will be slightly out of phase with the first.

I was considering something like this for my charging circuit. Good to know it works.

FRC