Joule Ringer!

[Peanutbutter29]

sorry to post again

Poop, didn't wanna post again, but I should clarify some.

First though, ty Jules! Also, good idea with calc solar!

@ Lidmotor about resonance. yes, I was referring to the coil itself. I have stated in the videos that I believe the "apparent" pulse rate, a meter shows, should be a multiple of 60 (50 for UK). I suppose you could "loosely" say we are resonating with the load then, but the low duty tuned (20%) makes this tough to happen fully. With the coil itself we do not want anywhere near the 600hz-2khz of these, otherwise the Tank would "steal" power from the bulbs. This is because the impedance of the tank becomes lower than the load. E.G highest current at resonance - not good. For similar reasons we don't want the primary and secondary LC's to match either.

Now apply how Tesla found ball lighting from his coils and you know why my caps are backwards from normal in terms of size.

Hope this helps
PB

[PhysicsProf]

OK -- found Peanutbutter's vid with the detail -- it's the 12.6V 3A xformer.

Thanks for the informative vids and the work especially the tuning hints -- Peanutbutter and also Lidmotor and Lasersaber! Fun stuff!

[Jules Tresor]

Great tiny light-box !

Thanks Pbutter for this video of an affordable light meter Thank you for the comments and support!! A little something I hope proves useful. - YouTube
As Lasersaber and PhysicProf say, it's essential for any efficiency testing in a lighting circuit. Using this tiny solar cell, that could also come from a solar powered calculator, as alternative to a Lux meter, makes such a testing device affordable by anyone and anywhere !!! Very smart indeed

[Peanutbutter29]

Transformer models for SJRC v1.2 and SJR 2.0 "tuned"

heck, who needs model numbers?! ......Sorry bout that .

SJR 2.0 "tuned"
Model: 273-1511
12.6V CT 3.0A Chassis-Mount Transformer with Leads - RadioShack.com

SJRC v1.2
Model: 273-1512
25.2V CT 2.0A Heavy-Duty Chassis-Mount Transformer with Lead - RadioShack.com

[Lidmotor]

Radio Shack transformer

Great vid, Lidmotor -- motivating! and I accept the challenge.
Quick question for you or Peanutbutter (or someone) --

WHICH radio shack 12V Xformer did you use? I see one for 120V to 12V @ 450 mA -- is that it? or the one for 120V to 12.6V @ 3A?

Thanks!

I used the 3 amp one that I had on hand and it is what Peanutbutter used. I think that others will also work. I might try this on a 9v transformer and see what happens.

@Peanutbutter
I was very surprised that you describe this as a NOT a resonant circuit. The way that you describe it as a " tuned oscillator"makes sense though. Very interesting. Whatever---it gets the job done.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[PhysicsProf]

Thanks for all the pointers, peanutbutter (and all!)
I use a Variac my friend; also have used a simple dimmer-switch (slider model).

@Peanutbutter & All
I repilcated your simple "Tuned" circuit yesterday using the Radio Shack 12v transformer and it worked great!! Of course I had to play around with it so I started changing cap values and found that I could get good results with just a single .1uf cap across the collector coil. I also messed with the base feed and added a few things there. Very cool and easy circuit using that off-the-shelf 12v transformer. I recommend that people replicate Peanutbutter's circuit EXACTLY and then go from there. It is fun, quick and it works beautifully. My replication would not run CFLs though--- just ran the LEDs great.

Super Joule Ringer 2.0----The Amazing Peanutbutter model - YouTube

Lidmotor

Great vid, Lidmotor -- motivating! and I accept the challenge.
Quick question for you or Peanutbutter (or someone) --

WHICH radio shack 12V Xformer did you use? I see one for 120V to 12V @ 450 mA -- is that it? or the one for 120V to 12.6V @ 3A?

Thanks!

[Peanutbutter29]

I'll try to cover a few things and hopefully not be too long. First, thanks again for the good comments! I'm glad replications are working so far too!! Outside verification is key, I feel.

okay,
@ PhysicsProf, gotcha. I wondered how you adjusted for proper wattage, nice! So, then last question; Triac or Variac? Prolly Variac to not chop?

@T1000, probably the best single sentence to describe what's going on in the end; Good perception!

For your number 1, Well, yes and no. I'll try to explain a bit below.
For number 2; that's "partly" what the tuning is doing already.

@ Lidmotor. Great video and changes! I like the indicator lights for "operational" as well as your base current. That will be an excellent thing for helping tuning! I highly encourage playing around with these for sure!

A couple of notes just mainly info for everyone. With the base current, that is limited by the 220 ohm to 54ma@12v max; so about 640mw maximum, which is "typically" a small fraction of total. Having resistor at the maximum range the current would be negligible, so similar to a "no base tie".
I talked in one explanation video (not still on) mainly about the transistor and how the potentiometer is allowing a bias voltage to the base. This, was mainly to exemplify how a variation of R can increase or reduce (in the end); how much energy is required by the secondary to drive the base. Also, then it will relate to voltage drop ratio of the coil to "base-collector".
So, i tend to visualize the potentiometer settings in terms of a "still negative bias"; e.g. high resistance. Or a "positive bias" with low resistance; e.g. voltage to base is greater than the negative value of the base with no tie at X volts. Now there is a theoretical "zero bias" state, but that can be harder to know/ find; as they tend to "pop" into the other modes.

Putting this together then, I showed the latest 1.2 versions (I think on both vids) how then the "negative bias" drew low current and lit bulbs. This was 9 bulbs @ 12v and 200ma; but I noted I prefer another mode; which is more "positive". As I passed the "zero bias" point (starting running at 200ma) you see it "pop" into the positive mode. I noted I preferred right at the edge of this point; as with this coil and load, it was best close to "zero bias".
When final adjusting a "Tuned" system, you'll find it prefers a particular spot for best efficiency; not necessarily lowest draw. With the v1.0 using the large coil, it was run well into the positive bias mode for best output. So, here I would blow a single LED indicator, heh.
Some of this plays into my overall tuning logic, but I prefer more bias to less; in most cases. I will say too, I AM working on a single 120v LED system; but getting high light, low volts and good efficiency is tough. I have a micro system that can run a single pretty well at 12v and 300ma; but I'm not happy yet. I'm shooting for 6v or less and AA draw range.

I want to point out too, I DO feel we will find greater efficiencies with larger bulb numbers as opposed to smaller numbers; regardless these seem to smoke inverters for conversion efficiency, if only for LED's.

Onto another item to point out with the caps in general. From my second improvement for lasersaber video, I talk of frequency control and reinforcement. Also, the video of sparking the model T coil and tuning (not sure many liked), was to give visual reference to some tuning aspects, so I will refer there.
Taking a cap on one side or even 2 caps that are not "tuned", I consider this more reinforcement and frequency as opposed to being "technically" tuned. A single cap can reinforce a primary motion of electrical movement and the same applies with a secondary cap and its' movement. The best way of showing this was on that Model T sparking. In all cases of placing caps on the primary and secondary I altered frequency AND even reduced dissipation at the switch; However, it was not until a specific cap was on both the primary and secondary that I was able to get a wide range of 1 Power Factor through the spark. Also, then the secondary load altered the switch; which is virtually impossible with a model T.

After this here @ lidmotor. With this tranny being 'barely' tunable already; I would doubt a good match can be found for 1 bulb with the Radio shack 12v. So, what you've done is probably the best case for a single bulb as you want. However if you run multiples I would recommend trying to find a good secondary cap; with that system and a lot of bulbs you will probably get some heating. Though, if you stay negative biased your current will be low, but at reduced output.

I haven't really covered T1000's number 1 point yet, but this got long, sigh. I believe I covered somethings that can help with "my perception" related to bias and caps. I DO want to explain more what I'm doing / looking for; though I'm having trouble thinking of how to easily describe it. I can say what to look for easier than explain what's in my head, lol.

I guess I can point out a couple things and introduce terms as I'm using them. First, I have not yet (don't believe) mentioned resonance and I have done that specifically. We do NOT want "tank" resonance necessarily with either the primary or the secondary; independently. Primarily because current circulation would be greatest IN the circuit at that point; which is not what I'm looking for. I want that power OUT of the "tanks".
So, I do not consider this all resonance; nor do I feel it even can be, as oscillation of either single coil cannot occur "most technically". This being related to open / short apparent to the coils caused by the transistor.
Since we do still have 2 coils changing states of connection, I pretty much consider this an oscillation in all cases, both tuned or not. This is why I refer to this last version without charge, as "tuned" and not resonance. So, a tuned oscillation.

I suppose @ T1000, it's funny you mentioned Tesla; as I'd considered him a lot with this experience. I have the "what would Tesla do" scenario for certain things. Since, this is about as counter-intuitive as you can get to what he spoke of.
Although, transistors kill any hope of undampened oscillations as he preferred; I still think he could make magic if he had modern chips. I did spend a couple days before tuning, just chewing on the circuit and visualizing the operation. These, being clamped, coupled, bound, 100% dampened and all the bad things; how could I find benefit from this still oscillatory movement?
Honestly it was still Tesla's work and me trying to relate how "he" would take advantage of this. I decided instead of trying to eliminate dampening, why not embrace it. My take off then was from Tesla's ball lightning research that Corum and Corum later replicated. This ended up being related to my initial logic for tuning.

OMW, this is long I'm very sorry about that. I will wrap things up here, but hopefully that gives some help with what I'm doing some. Again, I need to put together a single explanation as well.

Hope this helps,
Thanks PB

@ Lidmotor, I forgot about the compact. The tuned circuit will barely get a compact to "pop" in at 12v. You need to have the resistor at the Lowest setting (220 ohm) or it will not start. I also did notice a couple times playing, that if I rose my supply fast; it also didn't "pop" in. However, the first commented replicator on the Tuned video said he had a compact running, but not LED's. So the low resistor setting should be fine.

[totoalas]

Super Joule Ringer Charging with Load 210512

Super Joule Ringer Charging with Load 210512 - YouTube

With 50 to 60 ma Input with led lamps barely lit battery voltage slowly climb up
With leds off it jumped to 13.85 v dc Transistor warm with cold transformer / resistor Thanks to Peanu tbutter for the caps will add Lidmotors led indication next

totoalas
Super Joule Ringer Lighting DC vs AC 210512 - YouTube

Note
for 8 pcs 5 watts @250 ma start time 1800 pm 13 v end time 1000 am 12.13 v dc sla battery 7 ah charged by 5 w solar panel

[T-1000]

Super Joule Ringer 2.0----The Amazing Peanutbutter model - YouTube

Lidmotor

@Peanutbutter
Nice idea of making self oscilating LC tank in addition to transistor base timing management!

I still see there 2 remaining things:
1) Entire oscilation to match resonant coil natural resonance timing (N. Tesla way)
2) Match transistor power ON/OFF time when LC tank runs second cycle on BEMF.

It should be not too hard to make such really efficient circuit. Also you need to attach 1 Ohm resistor instead of Ampmeter and put oscilloscope on that resistor so you can measure high frequency RMS amps by Ohms law(Do not trust ampmeters, they're not designed for high frequency measurements).

[Lidmotor]

Peanutbutter's "Tuned" Radio Shack transformer circuit

@Peanutbutter & All
I repilcated your simple "Tuned" circuit yesterday using the Radio Shack 12v transformer and it worked great!! Of course I had to play around with it so I started changing cap values and found that I could get good results with just a single .1uf cap across the collector coil. I also messed with the base feed and added a few things there. Very cool and easy circuit using that off-the-shelf 12v transformer. I recommend that people replicate Peanutbutter's circuit EXACTLY and then go from there. It is fun, quick and it works beautifully. My replication would not run CFLs though--- just ran the LEDs great.

Super Joule Ringer 2.0----The Amazing Peanutbutter model - YouTube

Lidmotor

[PhysicsProf]

@ PB : Very good presentation, thanks Now I understand why you got so fast to a finished, ready to replicate device !! Knowledge AND work/life experience !!! Very good You owe us/me nothing, don't worry for that, and thanks for sharing. The saying goes "Those who received a lot, shall be ask a lot" ahahaha I hope your inventions in "free" energy will help many people. Cheers, Jules

I agree with Jules -- thanks for sharing, PB!

PB:For reference, I plan then, to use the 7.5w LED and a set of 13w compacts for "line voltage" reference, okay here?
Also, you note to run (off the grid).....do you mean; do the "line voltage" test on an inverter then? I was planning on watt metering the A/C main.

Yes, those would be find for "line voltage" reference -- although I would add a couple of incandescents to check things out further, such as a 40 W and a 75W bulb with known (rated) lumens output.

Re: your second question -- I mean "using the grid", not using an inverter.
But with this caveat -- I noticed that in my rural town, the line voltage varies quite a lot, and so the watts actually used in the incandescents would vary.
Yet the bulbs are rated as x lumens given a certain watts for running the bulb (e.g., 500 lumens for a 40 W bulb running at 40 Watts, not at 44 watts).

In that case, I used watt-meters (a Kill-a-watt meter and the Chinese meter I showed earlier) to determine the Watts actually being used, and I used a dimmer to bring the power consumption of the incandescent to its RATED Watts, then measure the Lux using the light meter. I plugged the watt-meter to the output of the dimmer, this then goes to the incandescent bulb in the light box.

Does that make sense?

This makes for a smallish correction. If the watts ACTUALLY consumed in your bulbs are close to the watts rated for the bulb, I probably would not worry about this small correction. After all, we're looking mostly for RELATIVE changes and fairly large changes in brightness observed in the light-box as we vary the circuit. We're trying to do better than the naked eye -- and be quantitative. (I just like the best precision I can get, I guess -- habit.)

[Jules Tresor]

@ PB : Very good presentation, thanks Now I understand why you got so fast to a finished, ready to replicate device !! Knowledge AND work/life experience !!! Very good You owe us/me nothing, don't worry for that, and thanks for sharing. The saying goes "Those who received a lot, shall be ask a lot" ahahaha I hope your inventions in "free" energy will help many people. Cheers, Jules

[Peanutbutter29]

Thank you all for the warm welcome and good comments. I'm not really used to this and don't know how to properly respond. I feel a bit, that I owe everyone something for all their good wishes.

I suppose I'd stopped research back in the day from frustration, a lot of things I worked on, would never "do" anything. I've got an odd logic at times, so to me (even though I enjoyed researching) I'd considered much a waste of my time; since nothing came of the effort. I've since, made efforts to avoid researching and instead; find areas to get enjoyment where I don't expect a resulting utilization. Even before I researched and had a Marine store I tried to make things and never got them out. I made some nice skimmers, an actual "mount on tank" automatic frozen fish food feeder and even an automatic phytoplankton doser / reactor (supposedly impossible in a closed system). I suppose we did help a couple professors and an environmental company, but only released one item; which was a Montmorillonite (sp) additive.
My research was sparked by a customer at the store who began approaching me with science / physics questions; after he learned we were good at Marine. The first question he proposed was related to "lifters" and so my research there and into Tesla etc began. When my store closed I'd gotten lifters to about 2gm per watt of lift (equal to heli's). I designed a lifter kit with supply (help of Steve Ward) and the "customer" was supposed to get a investor, but never did. This "customer" now hired me as an engineer.
Now my boss, I was directed to a horde of other areas. For him, he was looking to make lots of money fast. For me, I was getting paid to research and I loved it. My first task there, he pointed me to a system to "leach" gold from electronic scrap and recover the gold. He said, "they want 300K for the system and 10% royalty. I want you to make this for less money". I did get a process and system able to recover as low as 100mg with 99% recovery of 24ct. By then, I'd suggested just mechanical processing and refining of scrap; so I began that system (for less than 250K was my target, lol). Finally that was completed for design and even utilized Ferro-fluid gravity separation from working with a professor in the UK. However, now he was on to gold mining and recovery. So, I had to research mines and tailing recovery systems. I did get to go look at a few mines and hot springs which was fun there, but otherwise we just improved a shaker, jig and had an 80% recovery system designed.
At this point, since he'd realized most mines have already been re-processed; he was on to Hydrogen augmentation. So, I researched the various systems he found and other aspects related to H2 with engines. My final presentation to him here, was a "proof of concept ready" design for a fully hydrogen run scooter. The only engineering necessary was the engine and it could be marketed for 20K to start. Solar charge for H2, PEM, solid H2 tanks on board etc.
And about this time, we was chased off by the FED's as he was running from a few fraud charges. I was left in a remote city with no money or vehicle and had to beg my way home.

This is when I decided to stop researching and I haven't picked it up until recently. Also, this is why I don't have lots of stuff around anymore either. I know that's a long ramble, but maybe it can help with understanding and why I say research was frustrating.

I must say, I've really enjoyed playing with these circuits and I've tried to thank Lasersaber several times, since he got enough spark for me to pick something up again. The fact that these could provide some use, would almost satisfy a wish I've had for a long time. For if it is used, then it is real and was worth the effort. I don't care to get money, or make a business (never again!), heck I don't even care if anyone knows where it came from. Just that it may be an improvement and used is enough for me.

I'm going to have to come up with something to thank everyone, somehow.

Okay, I'm sorry for talking on long here and I hope I didn't have a foot in my mouth too much.

@Jules. With the LED lifetimes, I'm actually not too worried with these dimmable ones'. They, "feel" as if they are running well and don't heat as much. Heat really is what shortens these LED's from what I understand.
With compacts on the other hand, I would assume the circuit will fry quicker; though they are designed with obsolescence from operation temp and low Hr Electrolytics.

I have a personal grudge against compacts, since I had my store. I much prefer a Metal Halide or VHO over compacts ANY day. PC's are hot, they change color, they have poor life and now they are even cheaper!? Also, we ran 10-20 watts per gallon on our coral tanks (1200w on a 120g).

@Physics Prof (heh, got it the right way this time) ty for the recommendation for 6 bulbs. It's also nice I can see the pics now, lol. I'll try the multi spike bar in a bigger box as you suggest.
For reference, I plan then, to use the 7.5w LED and a set of 13w compacts for "line voltage" reference, okay here?
Also, you note to run (off the grid).....do you mean; do the "line voltage" test on an inverter then? I was planning on watt metering the A/C main. Should I get an inverter then instead? I have all my solar stuff already (1kw in panels, mppt) minus inverter and batts. Was planning on full sine inverter and Trojan batts, but do not have yet. So, I can get the inverter if you prefer that setup.

Thanks again all for the welcome and good comments. I'm VERY sorry for being long.

oh @ minoly. Why I chose peanutbutter, it just was literally what popped into my head when making my first account with it. Has no real reason, but I suppose That is reason enough for me .

Thank you much,
PB

EDIT: @ Minoly....Junk meter ay,...wha'dya sayin? Hehe, naw I agree with you for "proof of concept" as that's similar to what I was doing with my crummy old meter. Though, I would like to "pin down" a more accurate number for both sanity and to just know. I suppose a digital meter may help better tune as my analog isn't as accurate. Having the analog did help when tuning where I could not easily not the changes with my eye.

[PhysicsProf]

Hello. I figured I would make an account to answer questions if I can. I do watch this and I commented I'm hoping to get professor physics light box setup soon. I did mess up and get the lux meter from Hong Kong instead of US (Doh!), so it will be a couple of weeks.
[snip]

EDIT: At Prof.Physics; how should I arrange for testing 6 bulbs? Since my circuits are designed for such and I've shown almost the same current draw with one bulb. I was thinking of making a box that contained just one in the set? I could then shift from bulb to bulb to ensure each is the same (or similar). I cannot think of a way (even with parabola's) to get an even light distribution on to a single light meter with 6 or more bulbs.

First, let me say how much I appreciate your videos and contributions!
And I'm excited that you will be putting together a light box soon.

To hand 6 or more bulbs: USE A BIGGER BOX, AND CALIBRATE WITH KNOWN-LUMENS BULBS.

Let me explain further. Take a look at the attached photo with THREE bulbs in it, using a power-strip and plug-in adapters for three bulbs. Everything has to be securely "plugged in" for good electrical contact, and the power-strips should be taped to the bottom of the box so they won't shift around.

For 6 or more bulbs, I would recommend the power-strip approach and use THREE power strips on the bottom of a larger box. Suggest a Xerox-box size or larger, lined with shiny foil on the inside, and easy-to-open lid.

The crucial thing is that you calibrate with the SAME number of light bulbs in the SAME positions as in your test.

And for calibrating, suggest you use known-lumens and wattages to "bracket" what you use on the test. So, you might use 6 40 W bulbs and 6 100 W bulbs, also the same LED bulbs you will use for the test, but run at their RATED volts and watts in (off the grid) in order to calibrate the box for those bulbs. Then do a graph like I did of Lumens (rated) on the y-axis and observed LUX from your meter on the x-axis. Hopefully close to a straight line as I found. (You might want to review my vid and further discussion -- my posts on previous pages.)

Then, with your TEST bulbs, you can measure the Lux and find that on the line -- and trace over to the y-axis to get your Lumens output. With your power input measurement, you can finally divide to get Lumens/Watt, and we can start seeing how well we are doing with various circuit changes and bulbs and so on.

[Jules Tresor]

Welcome Pb !

Welcome, welcome, welcome PB ! I am so glad you came to visit us !

Of course your circuit is VERY IMPORTANT, it will save a lot of expenses to many people. They'll need a much smaller solar installation to recharge their batteries, and smaller batteries too ! It could divide per 2 or 3 the initial investment. It will give access to clean lighting to people that couldn't afford it before !!!

It's such a good feeling to see such a qualified person joining the forum !

I agree with you that it might just be a way to drive LEDs very efficiently, but it's because the LED bulbs sold are of low efficiency compared to those that they have in laboratory.
There might be no OU, but at least there is less Pin used ! And the collapsing pulse is used too, sent through the load !
So the SJR is more efficient than "classical" circuits by using more of the energy sent in, and also it might be taking the LEDs to a much higher efficiency with this current-less (cold) high voltage back spike !?

The only risk of drawback I can see would be a shortening of the lifespan of the LEDs ... Except that it seems ALL BENEFIT so far

It's impressive to read that you put so many hours to tune your devices, your are definitely opening a new road that not many people could have done
Again WELCOME PB ! And THANK YOU !
Jules