Adaptor.
Here's the two part components for $18. Output hz are 1500! The increased frequency acts like voltage with the LED, perhaps lattice excitment. A third factor in Ohm's law. This may be off the shelf overunity connected to the 120 volt LEDS. The heat from the adaptor and transformer will increase LED output as well. The LED bulbs may output an extra amount of luminescence at these higher frequencies along with the standard watts glow, accounting for the extra power. Hertz powered luminosity!
"When a light-emitting diode is forward-biased (switched on), electrons are able to recombine with electron holes within the device, releasing energy in the form of photons. This effect is called electroluminescence."
Electroluminescent inverter with power adapter
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Amazing JT device !
I found those 2 videos by googling "joule thief 40led".
It's remarkable, exactly the kind of light that would be cheap and useful in very poor areas ...
Giving the light of 40 LEDs, 8 hours a day with very very low discharge of the source battery.
Having a second set of charging battery, it needs solar or grid charge only once a week or less !!
Man, if I was good in electronics I could realize such device and distribute the details and samples to NGOs working in that field around the world !
Joule thief Power Emergency Light.wmv - YouTube!
Long run test.wmv - YouTube
I hope someone can complete such a device one day, and I'll be glad to help produce it locally. Sales to "rich" customers in developed countries would pay for the distribution of cheap ones where it's most needed ...
Please, anyone interested to take this 40 LED lamp challenge ?
cheers,
Jules
Edit: I had one of those 40 LED emergency light, and it's enough to light a room where often a complete family lives in. Same with "UFO camping lamp"
I made a drawing for explanation, I think I will start a new thread because it's not about Joule Ringer :Attached FilesLast edited by Jules Tresor; 05-06-2012, 12:01 PM.
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I replicated the setup with a ferrite E-core from Nebraska surplus. First attempt used 22 gauge wire and then repeated results with 30 gauge plastic coated wire wrap wire. I used a normal incandescent flashlight bulb for the output. I tried a number of different NPNs but only the KSD1273-P (an oddball transistor I had laying around) would resonate well. Transistor got extremely hot very quickly and had a massive draw down on the 12 volt battery. Bulb was only dimly lit. I'm waiting for some LED bulbs to arrive to try those, but with small incandescents, efficiency seems really poor on my setup. I'm also wondering if I've got something wrong, however I've checked and rechecked the setup numerous times.
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Hi folks, just thought i would share my beefier replication of lasers super joule ringer 2.0.
Though this setup is using peanut butters resistor base bias modification, otherwise it does not oscillate, though it will with a darlington pair, but will get hot with the darlington.
With just the one nte2300 and 12 volt input at .75amps, the transistor does not get warm at all.
It is a 13 watt unmodified cfl that was donated to me.
If you notice, there is a green color in bulb when i disconnect power, not sure if that is normal, because in another thread, someone is saying that is related to radiant energy somehow.
Here is a video clip of the setup.
Super Joule Ringer 2.0 With Peanut Butter Base Mod - YouTube
peace love light
tyson
edit: oh i should clarify, when i tried the darlignton, i was using two tip42c's, so I would imagine they probably just can't handle the peak amps on this setup and so get hot.Last edited by SkyWatcher; 05-06-2012, 01:17 AM.
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Affordable Lux meter
For those interested to buy a luxmeter for better evaluation of their circuit output, Lasersaber's lux meter in his latest video looks identical to this one, 23-28 USD on Amazon.com (I am ordering one
) : Digital Illuminance Meter LX1330B 200000 Lux Luxmeter Amazon.com: Used and New: Digital Illuminance Meter LX1330B 200000 Lux Luxmeter
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Aparatus.
I just ran my whole nine 120 Volt bulb cluster off a 12 Volt 1 amp wall charger connected to the luminescent transformer inverter with great success. I'm certain this sweet combination has a multi-X advantage over the grid input effeiciency ratio. Cutting power consumption costs by 50% would mean alot to the grow light produce cultivator. I think the WALL CHARGER INVERTER LED combination is perhaps a quantum leap in lighting efficiency, and perhaps the highest state of the innovative art so far.Last edited by Allen Burgess; 05-06-2012, 04:46 PM.
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E-Driver
Fast foward to 1:15 on this video.
E-Driver Luminescent Transformer Inverter and 9 120 volt LED'S - YouTube
This is a Luminescent panel transformer inverter. Around $10. From 12 volts d.c. 90 to 130 volts @ 700 to 1000hz.
12 volt electroluminescent inverter for A5 EL panel
What I noticed along with Lidmotor and Imhotob is that with the addition of bulbs, input drops off. The first bulb costs one solid amp to illuminate, the 9th lights practically for free! This off the shelf Inverter will probably deliver the 2X over a.c. grid efficiency input ratio from a d.c. source. Hertz factor's the key.Last edited by Allen Burgess; 05-04-2012, 07:42 PM.
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Don Smith / Mr. Clean replication
Using 2 tip 31 c Darlington and a 30 w transformer ; 12 v dc supply and a 0.5 watts led bulb barely dim but the current draw is only 1.5 mA using the ground for base ..... Either touched by hand lights up also...
So there must be a HV present to brightly lit up the bulb .....either from HV coil from tv , microwave oven transformer , and last ignition coil to make the Don Smith replication to Work
Dont know if the hv output from slayer and ground can accomplish this as Lidmotor said maybe a cousin of Slayer circuit
Don Smith/ Mr Clean Replication 050512 - YouTube
totoalasLast edited by totoalas; 05-04-2012, 06:04 PM.
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@Lidmotor,Originally posted by Lidmotor View Post@ Dr. Jones
I worked with Lasersaber's 2.0 circuit again today and looked at the watts output vs light produced using different bulbs. I would like hear your thoughts on what might be happening as there seems to be something strange here.
Here is a video of what I did today and watch the amp meter with the different bulb loads that I apply. It hardly changes. I am also picking up "Exciter" effects off the circuit.
Lasersaber Super Joule Ringer 2.0 --With multiple bulbs - YouTube
---Lidmotor
I really enjoy your instructive videos.
The only difference between the 'Fuji-mod' circuit and LaserSaber's new circuit is that his new circuit isn't using a center tap on the secondary side of the transformer.
I may be wrong, but, you might have better success using Gadgetmall's circuit for the transistor bias. That circuit connects, in parallel, a 68pf cap (maybe 100pf cap might work better) with a 20K (50K would work better in this case) variable pot with no resistor off the wiper. The cap is connected across one end of the pot and the wiper, the other end of the pot is unconnected.
The second wire of the parallel primary winding that is unconnected is acting as an antenna and spewing EMF. I may be wrong, but, if you connect that second wire at each end with the other parallel primary winding all will work better.
I am only a student in this and not a teacher and just inputting my observation. I am working on my own replication of this circuit, but, it's slow going and I look to learn from everybody as I go.
Last edited by Billxx; 05-06-2012, 03:35 AM.
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I understand and appreciate your approach, too. Turns out I have a calorimeter set up in my home lab and a few blocking oscillator circuits that I've studied sitting around as well... so I'll pursue this "dream" in parallel and let you know what I find.Originally posted by Lidmotor View Post@Dr. Jones
Thanks for all the details on how to look at the efficiency of this circuit by using heat measurements. I am really more interested in how much light is produced per watt used. My feeling is that heat is the enemy in these circuits. I have this dream that one morning I will wake up and walk into my living room to find a running light sytem still on full bright ------ covered in frost.
Well we all have our dreams.
The heat measurement experiment sounds interesting but I don't think this circuit would show very good results. Heat is leaking out all over.
Lidmotor
I'm inspired also by peanutbutter's results.
Best wishes to all--
Cheers!
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Air core Super Joule Ringer 2.0
I could replicate the Lasersaber Super Joule Ringer 2.0 with a big air core (diameter of coil 255 mm, 200 turns secondary at base of transistor, 2 turns primary at collector of transistor). See the attached circuit diagram and the photo.
This coil stems from other experiments and I think the primary at the collector of the transistor needs a few more turns. When I find time I will play with different number of turns for the primary. My guess based on Joule Thief experience, about 20 turns will be right. Also the position of the primary on the secondary (near one end) is important.
As with the Joule Thief type circuits in general, the air core allows for higher frequencies (in the inaudible range), in my case it is about 300 kHz.
The idea of Peanutbutter to bias the base of the transistor with a resistor towards the positive rail works really well. It allows tuning. Without this tuning mechanism it is difficult to make the circuit swing. Tests with different lamps showed that the resistor should be near 1 K (up and down).
The circuit also works like a "exciter" as Lidmotor says (see the Avramenko plug with a blue LED in the middle of the coil). I also see the transistor heating problems.
Greetings, ConradLast edited by conradelektro; 11-05-2012, 01:20 AM.
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[QUOTE=Lidmotor;191434]@Dr. Jones
Thanks for all the details on how to look at the efficiency of this circuit by using heat measurements. I am really more interested in how much light is produced per watt used. My feeling is that heat is the enemy in these circuits. I have this dream that one morning I will wake up and walk into my living room to find a running light sytem still on full bright ------ covered in frost.
Well we all have our dreams.
Thanks Dr, Jones but right now im on a tight budget and had sent all my stuff in the Phil where they have their use.
I remember Lidmotor on the ground base of your flip flop inverter and also minOLYy in the SS trigger coil and now on Don Smith replication by kidniken or Mr Clean
Can we do the darlington in the joule ringer and base to ground hope you can try this ZERO AMPS IS EVERYBODY'S DREAM
DREAM ON LOL ITS FREE
TOTOALAS
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Heat
@Dr. Jones
Thanks for all the details on how to look at the efficiency of this circuit by using heat measurements. I am really more interested in how much light is produced per watt used. My feeling is that heat is the enemy in these circuits. I have this dream that one morning I will wake up and walk into my living room to find a running light sytem still on full bright ------ covered in frost.
Well we all have our dreams.
The heat measurement experiment sounds interesting but I don't think this circuit would show very good results. Heat is leaking out all over.
LidmotorLast edited by Lidmotor; 05-04-2012, 07:12 AM.
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PS -- for the temperature probe, I found the TK probe below and have been using it for studies in the last several months. Inexpensive, and I'm finding it reliable. Free shipping, too. I picked up a couple of these a while back.
PPS -- it is important to STIR the water and let the probe equilibrate for several seconds to the water temp, in this little calorimeter. If you get an "interesting" Eout/Ein ratio, suggest we then move on to a "professional" calorimeter. The simple water-heating calorimeter outlined above should allow for quite reliable and QUICK measurements of the output energy during tests...
(I'd be very pleased to work with you on calorimetry if you wish.)Last edited by PhysicsProf; 05-31-2012, 12:47 AM.
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Interesting, totoalas.
But again, to get a scientifically reliable and repeatable measurement of the output power (or energy), I strongly recommend calorimetric methods.
Lidmotor -- attachment shows the immersion heater I have used in a recent calorimeter.
I wrote, "dump the (AC) power into a carbon resistor or a nichrome wire ("R-load")." You could use this immersion heater for R-load, if you wish. Immerse in water to within about 1 cm of the white plastic. It runs at about 290W at 110V; hopefully the resistance is not too low for your circuit.
Note also that heating of the transistor appears significant in this circuit; and that "Qheating" should also be captured (in a separate water cup if possible) to get a more accurate reading of output energy, so
Eout = Qwater-heating-by-Rload + Qwater-heating-by-transistor.Attached Files
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