Joule Ringer!

[dragon]

FL tubes, neons, tunnel diodes etc all can display negative resistance characteristics at the right frequencies. It's possible Lasersaber has tapped into the right combinations....
________
Hermann Lang

[LaserSaber]

Joule Ringer update + schematic:

YouTube - Joule Ringer update + schematic.

[xee2]

@ LaserSaber

Thanks. Great video. I think I understand your schematic, but I can not tell which way the diodes go. Is the following correct?



EDIT: NOTE - see revised drawing below

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi lasersaber, thanks for sharing this circuit and idea, will be attempting replication once we know for sure the proper circuit. Hi xee2, thanks for drawing that. If it is correct, i heard him say in the video he was shorting something, maybe he was briefly shorting out the fluoro bulb to start the oscillation. Otherwise, based on your schematic so far, i'm not sure how it is being kick started, unless a low voltage current is somehow passing through the bulb.
peace love light
Tyson

[seth]

Thanks for posting so quickly LS!

Im gonna have a try shoving that bifilar coil (which i'll spend today winding....6 layers sounds like a lot of turns) between the output and input coils on my flyback-transistor circuit that xee2 helped me build. see if i can get any ''ringing'' effect with a capacitor. If it dont work then ill try and salvage a trigger transformer from a camera.

Good luck to all replications! Im looking forward to seeing them all

[xee2]

@ LaserSaber


This may work as a substitute for your leaky diodes. May need larger resistance.

[synchro]

Cook battery.

Lasersaber,

Your inductor amounts to only half a Daniel Mcfarland Cook battery. Perhaps a second one cross wired like Cook's patent, would increase the resonance with the LLC combination?

[Lidmotor]

Fuji camera circuit

@ LaserSaber

Thanks. Great video. I think I understand your schematic, but I can not tell which way the diodes go. Is the following correct?

Hi Xee2, I think that the circuit is like the Fuji Camera circuit that you posted on the OU forum. It was reposted by Pirate here about mid page---
Joule Thief Circuit Diagrams, Etc....
The transformer has 6 pins on it and pin 1 (one end of the HV coil) is left open. I worked with a Fuji cam circuit yesterday and I am trying to understand what is happening here. The 220 ohm resistor located in the centertaped primary position (pins 4&6) of your circuit has been replaced by Lasersaber's magic bifilar coil. The .022 uf cap between the CFL and the (-) rail has been eliminated also.
What is going on in this circuit is facinating. I really hope that it can be replicated, studied, and refined.

Lidmotor

[skaght]

So far...

I got the circuit oscillating and lighting a small fluorescent tube, although the staying power isn't there yet. I need to build a better bifilar. My first attempt was with 100 foot of 22 gauge radio shack speaker wire still wound on the bobbin. I had it lying around, so I tried it. I tried reversing the germanium diodes in both directions, but it still turned off rather quickly...

Lasersaber, can you give approximate specs on some of the coils that work so we can be in the ballpark with reproductions? Including length of wire or number of turns on what diameter, etc.

[xee2]

@ Lidmotor

Thanks for the correction. I think you are correct. Using the transformer circuit you referenced produces the following (I think). Note that I reversed pins 5 and 6 from the drawing you referenced so that the pin numbers follow the conventional order.



EDIT: fixed diode orientation

[Joit]

I found the first Schematic wrong too,
Thats why i made now a new one.
Just have limitaions with this Programs
because they dont even have a bifilar Coil.

This attempt from you is wrong again, Xee2,
follow the middle Lead from the Transformer,
where it goes at the first Part of the Video,
its only to the CFL.

[skaght]

2nd attempt looks better...

All right, so I switched to a 3 inch diameter 20 gauge coil, heigh 1.5 feet. It was an old slayer exciter coil. I added an outside wrap with all of the 20 gauge wire I had left and it only covered half the coil. I got Better results with this primitive bifilar arrangement. The fluorescent stayed somewhat lit for about 15 seconds with a 2200 uF cap, initially charged with a nine volt battery. It flickers a lot as it slowly dies...

Edit: I scraped off some of the enamel to even out the bifilar, and I'm getting about 30 seconds of light from a 2200 uF cap. My coil is 3" diameter, 10" height, 20 gauge, with two layers. I wrapped a second wrap on top of the first to make a primitive bifilar. I'm seeing the same effects that lasersaber showed in the video. My run time isn't great, but I'm using a pretty small cap. I think this circuit is for real!!!

[xee2]

@ Joit

Thanks for checking me. I want to get a correct schematic. However, I do not see the mistake you mentioned. I have attached the schematic from viedo 2. I think it shows the CFL going to pin 3 (on my drawing) and the negative of the capacitor. Am I missing something?

[skaght]

Germanium diodes...

The germanium diodes seem critical, I tried high speed switching diodes and some other standard silicon diodes and they don't work. I also tried an LED and that doesn't work either...

EDIT: You can get decent effects replacing the germanium diodes with a 10 MEG ohm resistor without any diodes. It lights brighter and still has some reasonable staying power...

I tried hooking up a capacitor on the output instead of the fluorescent to see if I could capture more power in the cap than it takes to run the circuit. The output cap didn't increase at all, while my input cap drained completely...

[LaserSaber]

Edit: I scraped off some of the enamel to even out the bifilar, and I'm getting about 30 seconds of light from a 2200 uF cap. My coil is 3" diameter, 10" height, 20 gauge, with two layers. I wrapped a second wrap on top of the first to make a primitive bifilar. I'm seeing the same effects that lasersaber showed in the video. My run time isn't great, but I'm using a pretty small cap. I think this circuit is for real!!!

I am so happy to hear that you got it working! Now all you have to do is work on tuning it to make it run longer. I actually think 30 seconds of light from 2200uf cap is really amazing for a first replication and a great success!