Joule Ringer!

[PhysicsProf]

Jules:

Hello Prof,
Mr Tesla was using air-core coils, 100 years ago, how could anyone claim anything about property on air-cores ?

I totally agree -- they could not!

Great builds, Slider and Lidmotor.

I appreciate your commentary at the end of the vid, Lidmotor, that once a vid or post is given out -- then it is "free to the world" as you said, and we should be glad to be doing this.

[Peanutbutter29]

Last I will ever be heard of

I've already deleted both google and youtube and I will not ever be seen again. I'm sorry for wasting efforts where animosity prevails possibility.

Firstly EGO? Sir, if you feel I have an ego; it is an error of perception. I tend to skip formalities with type from being overly logical from AS. You can tell from video's I don't have arrogance or ego. I did not ever claim to own something and I stated that very clearly. I also stated clearly that "tuned" was separated for a reason (NOT TO BE MINE). I have FULLY proven, with numerous readings and scopes that this DOES matter. I pointed out over and over the separation was to allow perception to understand it being different than "No parts". I don't give a rats behind about anything material, or a name or notoriety and I've stated this too.

Sure I understand that nothing is new. I've joked about that for years "the only thing we've mastered in 3 million years is fire". "nothing new has been created in 100yrs" etc. I also pointed out that this circuit is really an armstrong oscillator as with Slayer; but did I start calling them that NO!!!

Sir, I baulk at your comment of ego with lynx, when it's obviously about respect for Lasersaber! Sure, I feel that shown circuit is flawed without a bias resistor (for general application), however I didn't at all claim this is mine. If you, or anyone cannot wrap your head around "Why" it is respect. Then I understand why a lot of what I said would sound nuts too.

I only asked and tried to provide for people to understand or try what I was stating, with tuning. I could give a crap about ownership and I stated that too. I stood up for my error where others haven't; again an apparent lack of ego.


Onto light aspects, which I'm saddened that you didn't grasp.

First Lu/W. Lidmotor JUST posted the video for cree's 150 Lu/W video. If you look at the OU forum, where I separated SJRC (under Lasersabers Joule ringer thread) a fellow there brought up Cree has a new bulb with over 250 Lu/W efficacy.
In terms of the Govt. requirements of 200 Lu/W did you know there was an award for that? Phillips already got that (see popsci). So, now we have 2 companies over 200 Lu/W already made, not in production..

Now about calibration as I'm saddened you cannot understand what I mean. First about the 65 Lu/W, you obviously don't watch video's as well. I show 54 Lu/w with a radio shack and 55Lu/W with the e-core my friend wound. I was pointing then to 2 situations where your error you are having now is playing a role.

Now if you look at calibration numbers I show.
US A/C Incandescent & compacts...Nice straight line ratio .201 ONLY IF WARM WHITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

US A/C 13w Compact same bulb, but daylight.... nice straight ratio, but at .177 (oh my!)

US A/C 7.5w Warm White LED...nice straight ratio, but .184 (oh My!)

US A/C 7/5w Daylight LED..nice straight ratio, but .156 (oh My!)

Adjusting for each bulb, CAN cut down to 1% error rather than 5% you state and is shown above. This is why I showed my "proven" variation in bulbs can change 10-15 Lu/W of readings at the end. What does this mean.

Well your bulb? It is a daylight.....sooo, it's got a lower ratio than your INC and Compact conversion. By applying the Same you have introduced an error of 5%+ by NOT re-calibrating for that bulb as per mfg. Dis' be why it seem to give more lumens....sigh

As for our meters and why my large box does not "pick up" the power strip Lux is related to the Watts apparent at the sensor.
This is based on the area of the space and distance / the size of the sensor. Meaning simply. With a conversion of .08 you are getting....say .1w of emitted power at the sensor; whereas I am getting .01w or less. This is is more of an "ambient" light rather than a bulb wattage output. There are other proper methods for that. A note here, to get a box small enough to approximate your conversion with this meter; ends up being 8 x 6 x 6, lol.
Here are some formulas based on "what you are calculating"
Light Guide: Useful Forumulas
Another here probably better; this is why volume must be standardized, in addition to each bulb calibration.
Calculate the light intensity in 1.45m from 100 W light bulb,radiates all are equal? - Yahoo! Answers

Another forum where something was asked similar to what your doing. The response for accurate conversion..."you can't".
How to calculate lumens

***We are rather..measuring "watts per area" in luminous intensity. NOT, watts out of bulb, for that; back to the drawing boards. But you may find a solar panel method and tube the most accurate for actual Watts .

I hope that clarifies some things and again I'm gone so you wont' have to deal with my ego driven arrogant personality anymore. I've said "i don't like people" as long as I can remember; sadly I'm a bit more crass about things, I suppose from being away from them so much. I know there's blame on me here too; but that's for myself and karma to sort out now.

I've focused as much time into this area as I can rationalize. I placed a nice big sign up in my head (stronger than the last) that says NO when I think of researching anything further.

I wish everyone well and thank you for the kindness you showed. Sorry to have caused issues, where none would have arisen; had I not posted in the first place.

PB

[Jules Tresor]

wow

Wow man, I got a Lidmotor video dedicated to ME AAAAAAmazing
Thank you very much Lid for your statements AND most educative videos ! You are so generous that I feel I should take your circuit to some faraway countries and manufacture them for the people living in stone-age conditions. Well, I guess I could do that, after all I have not much activities, except meditation and internet surfing
I see only 2 hurdles, one being that these countries use 240V, and the second is that I am too bad in experimenting. So we need such of your circuit with 240V parts.

I was so happy to read that PB was ordering 240V bulbs, and that he had already 240V transformers ... but after his latest post I feel sad because he says he wants tu pull out ... (to me PB has done nothing wrong at all, may be he just misinterpret the meaning of some posts because he isn't used to exchange in forums) So please, PB, come back, we love you and love your videos

So if someone can put in a box, ala Lidmotor, such a circuit in 240V, I'll make a website to present it, and anyone will be abe to give the website address to anyone interested. It will be kind of a resume of the circuit, with pictures and diagrams to download and print. We could better ask Panacea.org to make a dedicated webpage for that !
Then, anyone going to such a country, or having an enterprise or working in a NGO, will be able to start a local production of this circuit.

Thanks again Lid for the video, you are really down to earth, for practical use of those circuits, that's one more quality of yours I think that's typical to sailors too, this generosity and compassion thing

[PhysicsProf]

Over at OU.com, over 9 hours ago, Lynxsteam responded to your suggestion that someone (you mentioned Lynx) had "ROBBED" (your term) the air core thing, PB, saying:

I don't know who reads these posts but perhaps you can pass this along to the offended parties. It was not my intention to "rob" anyone of anything, circuit designs, their rightful place in our esteem, their turf. I just bumped into this stuff (joule thiefs, joule ringers...) trying to find better ways to use wind power. Using an aircore transformer, induction coils, alternator coils, is something I have been using for quite a while now. I thought it was very clever to try LaserSaber's simple circuit with the aircore. Evidently, that was a "no-no". The aircore is not great or better than what LaserSaber shows, just different. But apparently not different enough to start a new thread. I apologize and I am sure the thread will fade off.

Anyway, sorry for the encroachment, I will bow out of this area of exploration. -- Lynxsteam at OU.com

I was challenging your statement that implied that someone "robbed" an idea that is OPEN SOURCE.
I really welcome your input, PB, and your contributions. And I appreciate also the contributions that Lynxsteam is making, and I urged him to stay with this community. One has to realize that using a word like "ROBBED" as you did can have serious repercussions. (You didn't really explain your use of the term.) But we can get over it, forget it, and go on.

Now, about the lumens -- I have repeatedly said that my light box calculations have an error of about 7 or 8%, so I have NO PROBLEM with your statement that I have introduced an error of 5%+:

Well your bulb? It is a daylight.....sooo, it's got a lower ratio than your INC and Compact conversion. By applying the Same you have introduced an error of 5%+ by NOT re-calibrating for that bulb as per mfg.

The error is at least 5% as I have said, probably more like 8% +/- . I still think that this measurement is very helpful.

I just succeeded in doing a circuit based on Slider's suggestion -- winding directly onto a Ferrite rod. It worked great! (Thanks, Slider) And it helped to have the SAME light box and SAME light as I did this replication.

However, again, I do not believe that the Chinese advertisement for this bulb is accurate -- I measured the light output, and it just does not agree with the mfg. advertisement. I suspect they had a typo, actually, that it should have said "152 Lm" instead of "252 Lm". There is NOTHING about lumens on the box the bulb came in, only on the advertisement which could be in error. So I'm not going to re-calibrate based on an on-line advertisement that disagrees with my other calibrations!

Its great that Cree has a bulb at 250 Lm/W -- but is it available to the public at a reasonable cost? that's got to be considered. This bulb I'm using (I have more than one now) cost $8.93, with free shipping.

Anyway, I hope you will reconsider and continue your participation in this effort.

Your contributions are greatly appreciated, by me and others.

[Jules Tresor]

DIY solar USB charger !

Found a great video on how to make the Solar USB charger from discarded parts, and phone batteries DIY: USB Solar Rechargeable Light & Mobile Charger - YouTube
Samimy has lot of other stuff SAMIMYS - YouTube

[Matthew Jones]

@PB

After 8 years posting stuff I have realized it is futile to get upset about anything in the going's on of the day to day research. Just block the people out who are upsetting and move on (In the case of YouTube). If they follow you here then there are appropriate action that taken to get rid of them.
Its an uphill battle between the naysayers and the so called peers "Who know More", "Have already done it", And "Find it useless".

I am enjoying the discussion in the background and I really hope you take it from someone who has been there multiple times, Just get on with the work, ignore the idiots, and get the research done. Acting out, because they are the way they are lets them win.

Cheers
Matt

[NickZ]

As there seams to be many ways to skin a cat... The different coil types, winding methods, core types, components used, and light output comparisons can get to be overwhelming. My head is spinning. Especially if the idea is to make this into a usable and practical everyday device, that can be used and adopted by anyone anywhere.
I believe this was Lasersaber's intention, in the first place.
What is needed is to focus on what has really worked best up to now, as is being done with the W/lm idea, and get on with building that. And go from there.
There are NO ego trips involved here, just one bad intertretation, after another. So, no need to beat a dead horse. Pb and all, PLEASE stay with it, PLEASE!!!! I understand your frustration, I do. But, be patient, with us, and forgive any idea of wrongdoings. There is really no other solution.
Back to the "cave" only works for a while. I've been there...

So far, the 10 bulbs at 200 -300 mA, 3 watts draw or so, is the goal to work towards, even to improve on. That is why it was given to us.
Thanks to LS. It has it been shown to work, and is no April fools joke.

I'm still trying to figure out why my electric lawnmower adapted to the DR. Lirpa Sloof technology (you know) is still running backwards. LOL!

NickZ

[Slider2732]

Perhaps I might spin your head a bit more Nick
Lidmotor and I had a little discussion about powering other equipment and the general thought was about frequencies hampering operations. I saw a vid by HitManMOB1 today that made me think again: SJT inverter - YouTube ..within which he powered his circuit board type signal generator hmmm
So, I returned to the previously unsuccessful clock radio and about the way the display was just an erratoc mess (erratic !! see it was like that spelling mistake !) - it needed smoothing !
We're used to smoothing DC, but the frequency change (as Lidmotor referenced) could happen if the higher switching level was brought down.
I soldered a 0.22uF 250V cap across the output wiring - FIXED !

Here's my 'old favourite' circuit, with 2W LOA LED and the clock radio running. 12V @ 300mA.
The circuit uses the more conventional reversed transformer approach, center is Positive voltage, one other is base, the other is to transistor Collector. Now as I know how to fix the output, in PB's and indeed Tesla's way, it's time to try different circuits and the ferrite coil.
Oh - the transistor runs cooler too, which may be a good sign of why the multibulb systems run with cool transistors.
And - the bi-colour indicator LED changed its ways. As you might perhaps be able to see on the right the LED is red, which apparently signifies the correct operating range. Before the clock radio went on, the LED was mostly red, with flashes here and there of the blue. This circuit powers the best when the LED is red.

[PhysicsProf]

So today I wound the Lasersaber -recommended E-core, and fired her up! worked great, after a little fiddling.
Thanks for input -- especially Lasersaber, Lidmotor and Lynxsteam. Also, Slider and Peanutbutter and many others!

Video shows the result: Ecore10V45LpW.MPG - YouTube

If you see the voice out-of-sync with the picture, let me know, would you? I'm seeing that problem.

Here's the description with it:

I did a replication of Lasersaber's 2.0 super-Joule-ringer, described here:
Laser Hacker! Free energy made easy.
First runs at 10V from the power supply, at about 0.08A. I measured the Lux output from a 1.5W LED bulb, shown in the vid, in my calibrated light-box: 440 Lux, so 35 Lumens.
The input power is 10V * 0.08A = 0.8W (from the power supply readings).
So we have for Lasersaber's 2.0 operating at 10V input, 35Lm/0.8W = about 44 Lm/W.

This is less than I had with Lynxsteam's air-core system shown in background in the vid. BUT, in next vid at 17 Volts, the E-core system gets up to 74 Lm/W, which is better than I ever got with the air-core system (even adding Ferrite rods into the air-core system).

Since this is my first winding of the Lasersaber E-core, I'm quite sure even higher Lm/W yields can be achieved.

I highly recommend use of the straightforward light-box (described at energeticforum.com and overunity.com) to get quantitative Lumens/Watt readings -- much more reliable than the naked eye!

So I'm up to about 74 Lm/W. Will post that vid soon.

[Slider2732]

I'm not the best to make judgements on videos.. the BIOS on this PC just celebrated it's 10th birthday
But, the video seemed to play slow, with normal speed audio. About a 20 seconds discrepancy by the end of the vid.
Have you tapped some cosmic force or something with the lightbox ? lol
Congrats on the lumens


A side note - i've now got a couple more of the Dollar Tree flashlights that I get the red/blue LED's from. In case anyone wishes to follow such a line of pot twiddling display on such circuits, here is what they look like on the shelf



They contain 5 superbright white LED's and the flashing red/blue. There's also a 3 position switch, handy 3x AAA section for powering low power circuits and....handy as a flashlight too.

[NickZ]

Ferrite E-cores from this company come in sizes up to 100mm. Most E-core have a permeability of 5000 or less, but some have up to 10000.

http://www.digipower.it/magnetics/FerriteShortFormCat10-07.pdf

Some toroid cores can have a permeability of 80000 or more. As the output of a transformer core is in part dependent on permeability, this may be an important point to consider.

[totoalas]

Super Joule Ringer Application II Philippines

Super Joule Ringer Application II Philippines 010612 - YouTube

Usin 12 220 v ac 5 watts lamps 12 v dc sla @ 220 ma 50 Hz input and 5 watts solar panel

totoalas

[totoalas]

Super Joule Ringer Emergency Lighting 010612

Super Joule Ringer Emergency Lighting 010612 - YouTube

Using 20 ah battery and 220 v ac led lamps - NO MORE BROWN OUT LOL

TOTOALAS

[NickZ]

Another great replication, the bump:
Super joule ringer 2 optimized bump diode excitation - YouTube

[Jules Tresor]

Lynx's latest video Lynx Joule Lamp V 3 - YouTube
I wonder what kind of bulb he has to draw 120W for 6 bulbs. Very simple circuit