Joule Ringer!

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi minoly, I looked over your videos some more just to verify your circuit parts and such, though I did not notice any flyback diodes, i can see all the base emitter diodes.
Were you using diodes to collect the collapsing field of each of the coil strands, I just could not see them in your videos, thanks.
Anyway, I am going to be rewiring my large ferrite core with at least 6 strands of 24 gauge, though I need to get more transistors, so will not be using all strands right away.
Going to try and achieve similar results with my 7AH sla batteries. Charge 4 in parallel with one, we will see how it goes.
peace love light
tyson

[Slider2732]

Seth, yer in England mate, it's December, are you sure about just a couple of hours ?
Just joking, I hope it proves to be a good addition to experiments.
An alternative use of the house radiated energies may tie into your thoughts and saying that the exact working method of the energies (especially at my house) can be ascertained...I know this circuit type can fill capacitors to 20V tested, though it takes some time for anything over 10uF (around 10 minutes on a 1000uF). A regular oscillator based trigger could dump those fill ups into a rechargeable AA. The dumping circuit would be similar to the present one that auto senses wireless loads, or maybe more similar to pulse motor based methods if it could use uA. That AA then is used at night to power a ringing circuit based on the flyback work of yours.
After all, there's the time when asleep and all day for it to trickle charge a battery.
To tie in with that, here are the charging results of one AA from a few days ago:
--------------------------
1.2V 120mA Ni-MH considered 'flat'
Test conducted while circuit running, as per Pigeon Loft video

12.33 0.840V
12.34 1.000V
12.35 1.100V - slow down in charge rate noticed
12.37 1.125V
12.48 1.185V
12.53 1.194V
12.58 1.199V
13.03 1.203V
--------------------------
Very small battery and the charge proved to be 'fluffy' unless left on the circuit for much longer. Hence cap dump thoughts.

[seth]

@All

@Seth
I wish that I had a dollar for every time that I have been fooled by a digital multimeter. I have learned to check them by using something else if it doesn't look right. Most people are using an analogue meter when there is a doubt. When I see a low amp draw the first thing that I do is fill up a big cap and see how long the circuit takes to drain it. Sometimes the meter ISN'T lying and the circuit runs and runs and runs on the big cap. That gives me big smile.


Lidmotor

Hi Lid!

Thanks for the sympathy - I tried changing the digital for the analogue, but I put it in the same position (only on one of the positive rails) and so it gave me the same fantastically low current draw (which is abviously due to the massive resistance of the neon in my circuit). Even though my first reaction was disappointment, at least I can say that I understand the current running round my circuit a whole lot better and I wont be making that mistake again with the multimetre!

The good news is, the 21W CFL will still exhibit the ''ringing effect'' on a large capacitor, and so it does light CFLs on very low currents. Also, I know from many experiments with the flyback how difficult it is to get a Xenon to work on just 1.5V input - and this circuit will do just that, so I havent given up on it.

I've invested a few quid in a solar charger for mobiles. It puts out 5V and has a 1300mAh battery inside. It'll light up everything on this circuit, but doesnt seem to last long - Im leaving it on charge for a couple of hours, and then I'd like to see just how long it'll run some of the lights.

Good Luck with the ambient guys - fascinating as always watching all the interesting vids, so keep em coming!

[Slider2732]

@Lidmotor...the coil around a wire to trigger at 60Hz sounds cool ! Looking forward to vids.
I'd like to try out what that brings and also to see if that bugging thing with ambient powering can be sorted through if related. I'll dig another Ground at the other side of the house and see if my own experiments change. No point in it just being 1 freak wire and I don't want to waste anyones time if something mundane is the cause. With being no trained up electrician there could easily be something about the location of that Ground.
This Ground is by the side of the house, comes in through the next room window, over the top of a disconnnected arcade machine (Pole Position needing a cap kit on the monitor and to avoid the wall outlets at its side), then around the corner to my workbench. It does pass by the front of the PC tower, but when pulled forward from there, after considerations of mains leakage, the circuit still ran
All I know is that it seems to be a uA expansion of the common LED lighting in the hand experiment.
The wall adapter was something addressed for such problems..but now the outside Ground itself seems a problem ! heck, well, I want it sorted and to know what is going on. It's not tuned up with test equipment of course, so I doubt there's any ringing in tuned coils or other such exotics.
Worst case would be if the electromotives from the house are being tapped as a source, that actually forms a drain. If no drain, then the thoughts on reducing badly shielded emissions to redirect them to cohered energy is the aim. Spinning all that around in a 1 wire system to make use of those energies. Thanks for the thoughts and tests.

[totoalas]

[QUOTE=Lidmotor;169721]@All
I have been working with another way to trigger the circuits----using a free signal from the grid. Basically you use the same Xee2 transistor and transformer arrangement but you set up a Darlington arrangement with three transistors. Two 2N2222s and the MJE13007 at the end. Doing this allows for a very faint signal to trigger the whole circuit. A clip lead attached to the base of the first 2N2222 with the other end of the clip lead just wrapped twice around any cord coming out of a mains wall socket does it. This takes the place of the trigger coil in the JT circuit. The circuit then fires at only 60Hz and saves power. You can also then use any four wire 12v transformer and it will run. On the five wire Radio Shack transformer just use the first two wires of the primary. Just something new and fun to try out.

Hi Lid,
Think that is the missing link in my set up below ????

One Wire Free Energy transfer Variant 4 090711.avi - YouTube

will try this @ home

thanks,

totoalas

[xee2]

I am trying to get things to work off ambient EMF but so far it has been somewhat dissapointing.

Ditto here.

[Lidmotor]

External triggering using 60Hz grid signal

@All
I have been working with another way to trigger the circuits----using a free signal from the grid. Basically you use the same Xee2 transistor and transformer arrangement but you set up a Darlington arrangement with three transistors. Two 2N2222s and the MJE13007 at the end. Doing this allows for a very faint signal to trigger the whole circuit. A clip lead attached to the base of the first 2N2222 with the other end of the clip lead just wrapped twice around any cord coming out of a mains wall socket does it. This takes the place of the trigger coil in the JT circuit. The circuit then fires at only 60Hz and saves power. You can also then use any four wire 12v transformer and it will run. On the five wire Radio Shack transformer just use the first two wires of the primary. Just something new and fun to try out.

@Minoly
Thanks for the link to the "Connections" videos. I have only watched the first set that he did. The first one "The Trigger effect" is perhaps the most well known. You can spends days watching all those videos.
I like the way that you have your bathroom setup with LED bulbs. It is a great step in the right direction,

@Seth
I wish that I had a dollar for every time that I have been fooled by a digital multimeter. I have learned to check them by using something else if it doesn't look right. Most people are using an analogue meter when there is a doubt. When I see a low amp draw the first thing that I do is fill up a big cap and see how long the circuit takes to drain it. Sometimes the meter ISN'T lying and the circuit runs and runs and runs on the big cap. That gives me big smile.

@
Slider
I am trying to get things to work off ambient EMF but so far it has been somewhat dissapointing. I am not getting anything to happen like you are. I have a great deal of 60Hz noise around but it isn't enough to really power something directly out of the air. Hooking up my earth ground does nothing. I can drag power out of the grid with an induction link but that is really cheating.

Lidmotor

[totoalas]

Revised results:


I think i need a day off tomorrow....

Hi Seth
thats when i start catching up with you guys lol

graveyard shift i n a hotel need some comfort zone and this forum is one of them happy experimenting

totoalas

[Allen Burgess]

LEDS in series.

Xee2,

I'll have to retrofit and gear up for that experiment. That's on the top of my list.

[seth]

Revised results:

1.5V 45mA and the xenon and 21W CFL run nicely
I.5V 90mA and the 72W runs dimly.

With a 9V battery the 72W will still draw just 90mA, but it lights up the room fairly well. 12V and 200mA and its what looks like full brightness (but isnt )

Sorry again for the over-zealous measuring. I think i need a day off tomorrow....

[xee2]

@Xee2,

The French Inverter circuit behaves a bit differently then the base tank inverter. Both circuits light a 15 watt flourescent bulb, with the addition of a 12 volt relay coil on yours. Full brightness on the 120 volt LED'S, the inverter runs a little cooler. The battery voltage drops while the amperage remains constant when additional bulbs are added to both circuits. No free lunch! The inverter has the added advantage of chargeing my laptop battery. Both circuits are really neat. Now we have all the possible RC. LR annd LC base tank combinations tested out.

Thanks for the update. Do the existing bulbs have the same brightness when additional bulbs are added in series?

[Allen Burgess]

12 120 volt LED'S.

@Xee2,

The French Inverter circuit behaves a bit differently then the base tank inverter. Both circuits light a 15 watt flourescent bulb, with the addition of a 12 volt relay coil on yours. Full brightness on the 120 volt LED'S, the inverter runs a little cooler. The battery voltage drops while the amperage remains constant when additional bulbs are added to both circuits. No free lunch! The inverter has the added advantage of chargeing my laptop battery. Both circuits are really neat. Now we have all the possible RC. LR annd LC base tank combinations tested out.

[seth]

Apologies!

My setup is not running on microamps. It is running on mA - about 30 at 1,5V. I had the multimetre wired up wrongly - it was only measuring current draw on one on the positive rails. I'll take down my videos as Im a little embarrassed to have made such elementary error.

Well done to all of you who had already guessed as much - All I can say is - you should have told me!

[xee2]

Here's 12 120 volt LED'S off the French Inverter: Amperage remains unchanged with the additional bulbs, but battery voltage drops.

12 120 volt LED inverter bulbs - YouTube

Have you tested if current increases with the Joule thief/JouleRinger circuit when bulbs are added in series? Each bulb needs about 60 volts. So I would think that the original 200 volt output circuit would light 2 or 3 with same current and the new 1000 volt output circuits would light more than a dozen in series.

[Zardox]

minoly - I like to use the 2 watt Lights of America led bulbs rated at 100 lumens in most of the circuits we are building here. They put out more light and use less energy than the Feit 2 watt bulbs that say they put out 150 lumens. With that said I am using a Feit 7.5 watt bulb in my flip-flop circuit and it lights up my whole room.