Donald Smith Devices too good to be true

[Guruji]

Kacher

Regards JoeFr thanks for sharing. Try thicker gauge on output transformer. Thicker gauge more amps.

[dunfasto]

Hi All again

This is my new setup with Kacher Tesla Coil and StepDown 300VA 230V - 12V Toroid transformer. The load in this setup does not affect the input. OK, it affect it a little as the input goes down a little when I connect 12V 60W Car bulb to StepDown transformer output.

Here is the Schematic:


Here is the Layout:


Here is the Video:
Kacher TC with StepDown Transformer - Load Does Not Affect Input - YouTube

JoeFR

hi joefr,


you completed Don smith board very nicely.
excellent work. impressive video.
the coil avramenko works the best. use more higher wattage bulb rated 12 volts.

rectify 12 volt hf ac and also use rf filter capacitor to smooth dc. measure steady 12 volts DC and connect invertor.

use higher mkfd cap bank to have more amps in output as the toroid transformer is a closed loop thing and ohms law prevails.

you need to connect one earth to the centre of L3 coil or you can connect the earth like the way you connected the copper tube terminal. so charges also sucked from ground thus reducing load on batteries.
thanks and regards
dunfasto

[GSM]

230V 25W light bulb above full brightness
and setup consumes 75Watts

The 25W lamp looks so bright it could fail, thus definitely more than 25W.

But 75W input ?

Your meter might false read at 53kHz because it has internal series inductance, and you have this in series with the primary !

The meter needs to be shunted by a low impedance at that frequency so that it will indicate DC only.

Also can we ASSUME that the batteries have low ESR at 53kHz too ?

Can I suggest 100uF + 100nF in parallel with you ammeter, plus 100uF and 100nF connected in parallel between the ammeter + primary (24V rail) and Earth Ground.

This might well shift your oscillation frequency, but then all of the more correctly ammeter measured power will be between the MJE15030 and primary.

Also can I suggest that you shorten wires between the MJE and primary and use much thicker wires related to battery and transistor to mimise series resistances and increase efficiency.

Cheers ........... Graham.

[Itsu]

lots of RF

Hi joefr,

impressive work, but i agree with GSM (allthough i don't know where he gets this 53kHz from), keep the leads between transistor and primary as short as possible (few cm at most).

Also there is lots of RF at the batteries which can/will influence the meter, so try to decouple that rf to ground as much as possible there.


Regards Itsu

[GSM]

hi joefr,


you completed Don smith board very nicely.

you need to connect one earth to the centre of L3 coil or you can connect the earth like the way you connected the copper tube terminal. so charges also sucked from ground

dunfasto

Is L3 not at live end of L2, thus any ground at L3 would kill transfer ?
Also earth for L3 diode rectifications is via toroidal transformer interwinding coupling ?

[woopy]

Hi jeofr

great work , i am impressed by your great inspiring work

Hi Mr clean
hi Kurt very near the aim bravo

at all

some idea for the vacancy in music

good luck at all

Laurent

Charging by induction music - YouTube

[GSM]

Hello GSM,

Liked your response.Ever since I found out that I got power from placing a coil close to a sparkgap, and a reaction from the non voltage contact on my multimeter at distances of 2 feet,I have been interested in making the ultimate spark gap.Any ideas, plasma tube and other gas related devices seem to generate tremendous power.

What would you suggest for the ultimate spark gap?

Best regards,
Ged

Wish I knew Ged !

A spark is merely an ionisation breakdown passage of current, and represents a perfect point source electromagnetic radiator, which is why they were banned in transmitters.

In a plasma the radiation is more UV photonic than RF. If tuning and spark gap adjustments are correct then the plasma beam can UV irradiate spark gap metal and displace electrons, thereby generating additional positive charge, and a tiny hot spot that helps to maintain the plasma. It is also possible that the hot spot would release additional energy due to spark gap metal dissociation.

Different metals cast off different quantities of electrons when UV photon bombarded, but I don't know which is best. Aluminium is quite reactive, but too soft to use as a spark gap. Steel is fine, and may be plated to present a different surface to the photons, eg. zinc.

Once UV irradiated the metal can develop a potential wrt ground additional to that induced by the spark/plasma, this being where an appropriate ground connected circuit could demonstrate current flow.

Any additional current is due to invisible UV photons knocking electrons into the air and making negative ions, which will be cancelled by a wind of positive ions. The energy does not come from the so called 'aether' but from plasma UV, with earth current correcting the imbalance.

Whether OU is possible must depend upon the choice of spark gap metals/ gas.

There used to be (military) spark gaps containing rarefied gases, including radioactive, and others with a third 'keep-alive electrode' to facilitate plasma induced oscillation, but those must be rare now and beyond our usage.

Whether modern magnets can be arranged at a spark gap to increase UV induced electron emission I don't know, but magnets do align electron orbits, and possibly in a manner aiding UV induced photon stripping.

Only experimentation with spark gaps will provide answers after a resonant arrangement has been acheived, but I am not able to join in.

Cheers ......... Graham.

[GSM]

Hi joefr,

impressive work, but i agree with GSM (allthough i don't know where he gets this 53kHz from), keep the leads between transistor and primary as short as possible (few cm at most).

Also there is lots of RF at the batteries which can/will influence the meter, so try to decouple that rf to ground as much as possible there.


Regards Itsu

I read 53kHz, but maybe not here. Reading too much !
If incorrect then I apologise.

[Peculian]

I read 53kHz, but maybe not here. Reading too much !
If incorrect then I apologise.

Too much reading ?!
I must say me too sometimes gettting confused, and this means this research needs serious concentration, which is hard enough with todays life rythm.anyway..
I think you read 53KHz thing from Mr.Clean`s recent posts and somehow mixed it with JoeFR`s setup.
Never mind, we all are humans, so we all make mistakes.
Regards.

[mr.clean]

Hi All again

This is my new setup with Kacher Tesla Coil and StepDown 300VA 230V - 12V Toroid transformer. The load in this setup does not affect the input. OK, it affect it a little as the input goes down a little when I connect 12V 60W Car bulb to StepDown transformer output.

Here is the Schematic:


Here is the Layout:


Here is the Video:
Kacher TC with StepDown Transformer - Load Does Not Affect Input - YouTube

JoeFR

hey man great stuff, i wonder how many output coils you could get onto this....
if current drops when you load it,as youve shown, could you theoretically load it until you read a negative voltage input? ....hehehe

[mr.clean]

Hi jeofr

great work , i am impressed by your great inspiring work

Hi Mr clean
hi Kurt very near the aim bravo

at all

some idea for the vacancy in music

good luck at all

Laurent

Charging by induction music - YouTube

thanks man, yourself great work as well !!

[Seeker2011]

Many Questions

I again want to thank everyone for their contributions. There is a lot of interesting work going on. I hope we are on the verge of a break through, but there are many questions hanging in the air.

Tesla worked with huge coils; what if you have to have a certain mass to develop the desired effects?

Several "working" devices required minimum loads (250W) to operate.

Capacitors need to be "conditioned".

Tesla worked with 10,000s to 100,000s volts; maybe these experiments don't scale down.

With so many variables, how do you know if you're even in the ballpark?

[PhysicsProf]

Don Smith Device Project Part 31: 3 Watts In, 20 Watt Halogen Lit Bright - YouTube

So just throw it in a glass of water? It does heat up MAJOR so ok, i'll try that, hey what is the heat formula? anyone know off hand?

Chet has a good idea here. If I may make a few suggestions... I've done many of these water-heating studies (mostly when I was working with Davey-Sonic-Bell devices).

1. The heat formula for water is:
Eoutput = Qheating = 4.186 J/g-degC * mass of water heated * (Tfinal - Tinitial)

2. and for water vaporized, we have:
Qvaporization = 2260 J/g * mass of water vaporized.

To keep it simple, keep the water well below "steaming" temp so you don't have to worry (much) about vaporization. So you just use equation 1.

3. Suggest you use distilled water. Tap water is much more conductive; it also can leave a residue upon evaporation.

4. Measure the temperature (Tfinal and Tinitial) in Centigrade with a reliable device, such as this: TM-902C K Type Digital Thermometer + Thermocouple Probe | eBay
-- a Type-K digital thermometer over a measured time interval (several minutes at least). Suggest using a styrofoam or other plastic container, thus insulated to slow down heat transfer to the environment. And be sure to stir the water right after the run-time (e.g. with a plastic spoon), and let the temp-probe come to a stable temp (several seconds).

5. It looks like you could replace your output-light-bulb with a heating element ready to immerse in water; all heat output (no light). This would be better in the calorimeter. I have an extra heating-element from my studies(it has R = 54 ohms); would be glad to send this on to the willing experimenter.

6. Example. We wish the actual output energy by measuring the heating of water for the bulb immersed in water, and then the average output power is the Energy/Time interval. Say we use 100g (100ml) of distilled water in a styrofoam container (e.g. large cup) and the water heats up 5.4 degrees C in 4.0 minutes. (For more accuracy, paint the container black on the inside to absorb the emitted light.)

Then the output energy and power for this example are:

Eoutput = 4.186 J/g-degC * 100g * (5.4deg-C) = 2260 Joules,

and the average power output is:
Pout = Eoutput/Time-interval = 2260J/240seconds = 9.4 Watts.

Ah, that's so nice to have that number (for the actual device!). We can do a bit better later; this is QUITE GOOD for now!!

The efficiency is Pout/Pin ...

PS -- I have a couple of digital thermometers of different types... If one of you who has a device and is willing to do the straightforward water-calorimeter test described above, I will be GLAD to send you a thermometer by express mail, no charge whatsoever! we're in this together!

[mr.clean]

Chet has a good idea here. If I may make a few suggestions... I've done many of these water-heating studies (mostly when I was working with Davey-Sonic-Bell devices).

1. The heat formula for water is:
Eoutput = Qheating = 4.186 J/g-degC * mass of water heated * (Tfinal - Tinitial)

2. and for water vaporized, we have:
Qvaporization = 2260 J/g * mass of water vaporized.

To keep it simple, keep the water well below "steaming" temp so you don't have to worry (much) about vaporization. So you just use equation 1.

3. Suggest you use distilled water. Tap water is much more conductive; it also can leave a residue upon evaporation.

4. Measure the temperature (Tfinal and Tinitial) in Centigrade with a reliable device, such as this: TM-902C K Type Digital Thermometer + Thermocouple Probe | eBay
-- a Type-K digital thermometer over a measured time interval (several minutes at least). Suggest using a styrofoam or other plastic container, thus insulated to slow down heat transfer to the environment. And be sure to stir the water right after the run-time (e.g. with a plastic spoon), and let the temp-probe come to a stable temp (several seconds).

5. It looks like you could replace your output-light-bulb with a heating element ready to immerse in water; all heat output (no light). This would be better in the calorimeter. I have an extra heating-element from my studies(it has R = 54 ohms); would be glad to send this on to the willing experimenter.

6. Example. We wish the actual output energy by measuring the heating of water for the bulb immersed in water, and then the average output power is the Energy/Time interval. Say we use 100g (100ml) of distilled water in a styrofoam container (e.g. large cup) and the water heats up 5.4 degrees C in 4.0 minutes. (For more accuracy, paint the container black on the inside to absorb the emitted light.)

Then the output energy and power for this example are:

Eoutput = 4.186 J/g-degC * 100g * (5.4deg-C) = 2260 Joules,

and the average power output is:
Pout = Eoutput/Time-interval = 2260J/240seconds = 9.4 Watts.

Ah, that's so nice to have that number (for the actual device!). We can do a bit better later; this is QUITE GOOD for now!!

The efficiency is Pout/Pin ...

PS -- I have a couple of digital thermometers of different types... If one of you who has a device and is willing to do the straightforward water-calorimeter test described above, I will be GLAD to send you a thermometer by express mail, no charge whatsoever! we're in this together!

WOW incredible info, thankyou Very much!!

[dunfasto]

WOW incredible info, thankyou Very much!!

Hi mr. clean,

you have done so much work on don smith device. i admire your work and the zeal and enthusiasm you put in and the videos have been inspirational for others to follow your track.
wish you good luck and all the best for the final run.

thanks and regards

dunfasto