Tweet
Originally posted by marseye
View Post
YouTube - Spark gap will rectify radiant current
-
What if you do it without diode at all? since I think spark gap will rectify the current. Use neon bulb as current direction indicator. The electrode with negative polarity will light up:
YouTube - Spark gap will rectify radiant current -
Sounds like a good idea. But I'm affraid that this particular 'neon-spark-gap' can seriously limit the current going through. Anyway, I'll have to check as soon as I have some time... My job eats my week days...Originally posted by sucahyo View Post
But I still have to make a strong spark gap just to see what happens then and how I can handle it.-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
M.E. Who else ?...Comment
-
Good luck. I currently think that diode has significant curent limit factor. Use neon only for detecting the current direction, don't use it after you know which way.Originally posted by marseye View PostComment
-
Great ! Really, I'm very near of what's done there. Thanks, nvisser, good outlook.Originally posted by nvisser View Post
The main difference (to me) came from when I inserted a cap that has made the whole difference for me, helping to realize what was happening (with the regular 60w Bulb)! And it's not self oscillating neither. But with the CFL, you can almost forget the external cap, cause the cfl has some tiny ones inside that are enough to do the job and light it almost full. The only really observable difference is the voltage at the bulb's poles (only up to 50v with only the internal caps). What is really surprising is definitly how fast the big cap fills up when hooked, then able of powerfull discharge.
I think my circuit and the one mentionned above are cousins (didn't know of it before), and mine is certainly more straight in its actual shape : just changed for an unmodified 15W CFL 230v instead of the regular bulb, since at its max glowing, the filament yet don't light the regular bulb really. Althought it's almost there, very shiny...
And when I hooked the cfl (with the big cap), which output leg was connected back on the battery Plus pole (instead of the earth the way I drew on the schematics), I thought for the first 20 minutes that the whole could possibly be self-sustaining... Now, I know what I've been observing for 3 hours : with the best settings I could 'guess' (talking about 'efficiency'), with an amp draw from the battery (12.45v) as low as 1.05 amps, the cfl was glowing full (my bedroom was then lit as much as with the ceiling cfl !), and the battery only lost 0,01v/25minutes(after a first immediate 0.20v fall when the circuit is launched, but the voltage comes up again later when it's off again, minus the little voltage that was consummed during the session) .
But I strongly suspect the battery not to be able to feed and recharge at the same time.
The battery is a car one, given for 41Ah / 380A. The cfl poles (with the big cap) are @ 300v, the current running out from it (back to the battery +) reads 0,180A. If I read more watts at first, it may be because of the big cap's voltage, sorry. There's not so much when it's not there. But it really fills up very fast when it is.
Now, I'd like to insert a charging battery and see what happens, since the output from the regular bulb (fed from a psu) was charging solidly the only one battery that I've got at hand for tests... In fact, whatever the bulb, it acts as a resistor on the line, and the circuit doesn't consume more when there's a charging battery hooked at the end (the charging battery just sucks what can arrive to it, but it should be enough to recharge it). I might take out my own car's one just to see if it's enough to switch them occasionnaly...
That may really be ok to charge strong a battery while having full light; and with only one battery and a little solar panel (or a little 'windmill', whatever because of such tiny losses at this point, if the switching was not to be that efficient) never be in the dark (or in just feint light) again. Very handy for camping, for example (to call for the furthest mosquitos' army
) . Or for third world. And It's really a cheap system, in its early stage. I just fear I'm only an untalented and ignorant hobbyist...
But I'm quite shure too that the whole circuit could easily be downscaled, if it was to be used with only one cfl bulb. Can it be upscaled to have big electromotive force? I just hope that may be the next step. With caps charging that fast, something may come forth from under the light that came first. I'm crossing my fingers and praying for that.
But atm, could someone test this circuit with HHO generating ? Because I'm really not equipped for that...
Ah : nothing I tested as a spark-gap did work...Last edited by marseye; 08-14-2009, 06:37 PM.-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
M.E. Who else ?...Comment
-
marsaye...
when you say "Ah, about earth : finally not necessary at all. It works very well using the negative instead... I can tell, cause I tried, and got no difference.".....
do you mean connect the lead coming after the cap & bulb..which is going to "ground/earth" in the diagram.....connect this to the negative of the battery ??Comment
-
Yes, you can even connect it back to the + of the battery. I generally put a diode just before, so that the battery's + can't go to the cap's - .Originally posted by rave154 View Post-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
M.E. Who else ?...Comment
-
thanks for the reply, ill give this a goComment
-
can't download
Hey there,Originally posted by marseye View Post
it looks great, but I can't download the pdf file. It reopens me the same page again and it download a php file. I don't know why...but normally it download fine. Maybe try to upload again. Thanks.Comment
-
Just checked : everything came down right for me, be it from a straight connexion or a proxy from my isp...Originally posted by Pcurrius View Post
I've been affraid for a while : could the MIB be involved ? But that would have been too great of a honnor
Last edited by marseye; 08-15-2009, 04:29 PM.-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
M.E. Who else ?...Comment
-
Dload works for me without Problems.
Seems must be the settings of your PC.
Theorizer are like High Voltage. A lot hot Air with no Power behind but they are the dead of applied Work and Ideas.Comment
-
To be honest : when a cfl is attached, the charging process to a destination battery is really slow. Seems like the most extra energy is burned into the cfl.
But hook it like Imothep's Bedini fan to a charging battery (you just need to take the cfl and the cap out of the circuit and hook the charging battery after the 2 diodes), and then 'bingo': the charging process is really fast, as observed on a charging cap. (keep the 2 1n4007 diodes,as they are rated each for 1 amp only, and we're charging with more than that, not like with a fan).
Keep the cfl, and touch it's glass with an oscillo's probe : you'll see a nice quite perfect sine wave on the screen... Its electronic circuit manages to accept the pulsed dc from the two diodes, then does its job.
Hook nothing after the two diodes : the neon glows crazy, although the waveform is not really impressive nor exotic... Despite that, I think I'm near of a 'Renaissance' like charger process. I'd have to digg for waveforms. Not sure I'm gonna spend too much time on this... The straight system gives already good results. Or good strong lighting for only few voltage drop. Quite satisfactory already. But not yet free unlimited energy... I still don't have had the time to test a 2 batteries system (just a psu and a battery until now).Last edited by marseye; 08-15-2009, 09:43 PM.-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
M.E. Who else ?...Comment
-
MARSEYE...
i have replicated your setup ( I hope )..
using a 240VAC 20 watt bulb across a 47uF, 450V cap connected back to the neg of the battery....using 467Hz and duty cycle of 40% (there abouts )...gave a glow on the bulb...bright orange..
any suggestions?
David. DComment
-
tried it to the positive ( with diode ) of the battery.same..nice orange glow, no where enough to read by or anything.......again...not sure what youre driving at here?
David. DComment
-
That's ok : you're then confirming an observation that I've had, and that has puzzled me... Not much than what's written above to say ...Originally posted by rave154 View Post
Maybe if you could navigate through cycles an dutys, you would light the 20w bulb to full ? That's what I was looking for at first. Take a close look at the cap's voltage...
Now, I light regular cfl's and it works perfectly,
with few voltage loss from the battery, despite it runs with 1 amp and more.
And it can charge batteries fast when no buld and cap are attached.
That's it.
Thanks for you've tried.-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
M.E. Who else ?...Comment
Comment