Big Joule Theif

[nvisser]

Circuit Diagram?

Can anyone on this thread please refer me to what they found was the best Joule Thief circuit diagram.
Thanks
Vissie

[Guruji]

Scr

in all the scr's i blew up
this is the one i liked the most
part# S6020L
it switches the fastest and with the lowest of current draw
but it does not have a high amp rating 20 amps i think
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-...-309/53339.pdf

Hi kooler and slayer thanks for the info. Today I hooked a BR with a 3300uf 35v cap and in the begining it was charging but after reaching 7v it stopped maybe the 1.5v batt should be charged again.
Kooler are scr's better than BR's and how do you hook them to a Cap?Any schematic please?
Thanks

[jeanna]

Can anyone on this thread please refer me to what they found was the best Joule Thief circuit diagram.
Thanks
Vissie

There are a lot of jt diagrams because the jt is so flexible,
You can use a plain jt as the original patented one, or you can add a secondary or 2.
Some people are now adding more than one transistor!

They all have many variations and possibilities.
What do you want? (besides everything )
I have a lot of drawings but I bet a lot of others do too.

jeanna

[Tectalabyss]

Anyway I have been playing around with secondaries and in trying to run another JT off my first I came across something I've never read about yet.My sec is running to a bridge rectifier I hooked up my sec JT off of the bridge rec and it worked but Led was dim.so I thought maybe the Transistor was bad when I took it out to replace it the the Led got brighter so I took the resistor out still ran. unhooked the Jt wire that ran to the resistor has it wasn't doing anything still ran.I checked the voltage it's only reading 0.71 Volt's.I added five more LEDs, I've had it running for a few hour's to see.Has anyone else had this happen. One thing If I take the Transistor out of the first one it shuts down. Thanks for any advice If anyone has the time. Tec

I have also unhooked the bridge rec It will not run without it. I took the JT toroid out of the circuit with the bridge.

My voltage is 1.58 DC at the battery. The voltage coming out of secondary is 1.53 AC. Voltage out of Bridge is 4.28 DC without load.( Why is the voltage higher coming out of the Bridge????.)Is it due to the fact that a JT acts like a voltage doubler.??? voltage with load is 0.65 volts DC . I also added some more LEDS I now have 10 running.

I have checked this with three meter's same thing + or - in the mil volts.
I have checked the current draw with the meter on the 20 millamp setting it's 0.10 is this good ??? The things I worked on most were anywhere from 200 to 600 amps

[jeanna]

I have checked this with three meter's same thing + or - in the mil volts.
I have checked the current draw with the meter on the 20 millamp setting it's 0.10 is this good ??? The things I worked on most were anywhere from 200 to 600 amps

edit,
To actually answer your question,
I suspect you are using a dmm to check your voltage.
They cannot do it with the secondary from a jtc.
You probably have more like 45v than 4.5v. You can check by putting 6 leds in SERIES and touching the secondary leads to the ends of the string. Start with 6 then 5 then 4...
If no lights go on repeat this with the wires around the other way.
===end edit.
my original answer:

Hi tec...
I did not see this before.
OR I need to ask if the sec is the Dr Stiffler sec or if it is the second jtc coming from the output of the first?

I made a whole thread on what happened when I tried to do this exact thing.
I had the thread pretty much to myself.
Basically the second level transistor is not going to do much with a pulsed input.
I found that it was simply unnecessary.
The reason I started a whole new thread (at ou) is because when I was fooling around with it after I had removed the second transistor and base resistor, I DROPPED a wire and when it landed straight into a hole on the breadboard all the lights got bright.

I puzzled over this for weeks, afraid to move anything in case I could not get it back into its place.
The circuit appeared extremely convoluted, but,
In the end I straightened out the wires and discovered that I had a pair of parallel lines and in those parallel lines, one or 2 series inductors formed from the second toroid of the second level jtc. I made some videos later and etc...

If you are talking about using this for a Dr Stiffler sec, then ignore this post.

thank you,

jeanna

btw, that thread is here

[nvisser]

There are a lot of jt diagrams because the jt is so flexible,
You can use a plain jt as the original patented one, or you can add a secondary or 2.
Some people are now adding more than one transistor!

They all have many variations and possibilities.
What do you want? (besides everything )
I have a lot of drawings but I bet a lot of others do too.

jeanna

This was what Jb answered me. I need to construct something out of that:
Question:
Originally Posted by nvisser
I bought a 1A solar panel for only R300 . That is about $40.
I connected it on my small ssg
It has a 1k resistor on the base so it start to self ossilate when you give it a quick spin. It start up with very low light with about 0.9V. The panel is connected to a capacitor and that supplies the ssg.
So with very low light it can already charge batteries. The frequency is very high with low light.
I tried it with moonlight a while ago with full moon but the generated voltage was to low from one panel to get it to run.
Now i connected the panel permanently to a car battery and drives the SSG from the battery that stayed above 12.3v even with the last few day being overcast. I am using it to condition and charge my 4 x 12v 7ah lead acid batteries
JB`s answer
Nvisser,
Make a Solar oscillator out of that or make a new one it will work much better. Just make an oscillator out of the sg circuit by reversing the trigger wire, then it will charge in the moon light. I do it all the time when I can see the moon. My lights are always on with that oscillator. Hook it up like the joule thief but use the SG coil with the resistor in the base circuit.
JB

[kazm]

Hi all, I recently found this forum and have had great fun replicating and learning from these circuits, much thanks to all who contribute to making this forum what it is!

Wanted to chime in with my replication of the "Jeanna's Light" circuit, specifically the one with the smaller toroid and led bulb:

PARTS:

* TIP3055 transistor
* 1k ohm resistor
* 1 inch (outer diameter) ferrite toroid with 3 turns (22 guage) and 9 turns (24 guage) on the primary, 85 turns (26 guage) on the secondary.
* Lights of America 2025LED-65K-24 LED 1.5 Standard Base Chandelier Style Bright White Light Bulb (Un-modified).

RESULTS:

* This is giving me the best level of light i've gotten out of my circuits so far. Previous to this i've made fuji based cfl drivers as well as the allelectronics-big-toroid version of jeannas cfl light, and both are noticeably dimmer in comparison.

* Runs for 3.5-4hrs on 1 or 2 AA batteries (decent light with 1 but is stronger with 2).

* Makes absoutely no noise at all! This has been confirmed by my girlfriend who can hear even the most subtle high pitched coil whine

~~~

I'm planning to box this in a project box with an wall style outlet (it's actually a 3-prong to 2-prong adaptor) into which i can plug my lamps.

@jeanna - i've seen it mentioned in earlier posts that having a "center tapped primary" can produce better results, but i'm confused by what this means. How would I modify my toroid of 3, 9 and 85 windings to be center tapped?

Cheers,
kazm

[Tectalabyss]

edit,
To actually answer your question,
I suspect you are using a dmm to check your voltage.
They cannot do it with the secondary from a jtc.
You probably have more like 45v than 4.5v. You can check by putting 6 leds in SERIES and touching the secondary leads to the ends of the string. Start with 6 then 5 then 4...
If no lights go on repeat this with the wires around the other way.
===end edit.
my original answer:

Hi tec...
I did not see this before.
OR I need to ask if the sec is the Dr Stiffler sec or if it is the second jtc coming from the output of the first?

I made a whole thread on what happened when I tried to do this exact thing.
I had the thread pretty much to myself.
Basically the second level transistor is not going to do much with a pulsed input.
I found that it was simply unnecessary.
The reason I started a whole new thread (at ou) is because when I was fooling around with it after I had removed the second transistor and base resistor, I DROPPED a wire and when it landed straight into a hole on the breadboard all the lights got bright.

I puzzled over this for weeks, afraid to move anything in case I could not get it back into its place.
The circuit appeared extremely convoluted, but,
In the end I straightened out the wires and discovered that I had a pair of parallel lines and in those parallel lines, one or 2 series inductors formed from the second toroid of the second level jtc. I made some videos later and etc...

If you are talking about using this for a Dr Stiffler sec, then ignore this post.

thank you,

jeanna

btw, that thread is here

Thanks for the reply Jeanna.
I am running from the secondary on my JT straight to the bridge rectifier.I have and old analog meter that I havent used in a long time would it read the volts right.Most of the equipment I have worked on for year's have been 3 phase 480 v starters gearswitchs and such. I am still learning about these smaller eletronic circuits.I'll try what you said and get back to you. it may take a while the winter here has been a bad one people just over the state line have been without power for over two weeks,and have just gotten it back this week. Thanks again for the reply. Tec

[jeanna]

White Light Bulb (Un-modified).


@jeanna - i've seen it mentioned in earlier posts that having a "center tapped primary" can produce better results, but i'm confused by what this means. How would I modify my toroid of 3, 9 and 85 windings to be center tapped?

Cheers,
kazm

Very nice Kazm!!

You are already making the centertapped primary. If you were not, the jtc would not be working.

So, I have a question
Did you modify that light?
I have made these with and without modification and the unmodified ones continue to oscillate through the switch til the battery is dead.
Somehow the caps are continuing the oscillation which must be effecting the primary which is keeping the transistor alive and THAT is keeping the battery involved.
The only way I can stop it is by removing the battery.

2 batteries will often be brighter, but more secondary turns will also make the lights brighter.
I have one that looks like yours that makes 400-500v off the secondary and lights the bulb UNmodified.

For a modified bulb, just make one that lights a neon(the kind that comes with a resistor from radio shack) and you will have enough volts for full brightness, which is 172 spiky volts.

@nvisser
I have one on my desktop that is an old drawing but is basic joule thief with a secondary. I will post that. Please note the drawing shows the BJTL (basic joule thief light) which should be removed when using a secondary, as it sucks out the joules from the battery and kills it quicker than if you only use the secondary for lights.

thank you,

jeanna

[kazm]

Hi Jeanna, thanks! No, the bulb was not modified, I did test a gutted one but it's output wasn't as good so I've been using them as is. The light is strong but it's still not full brightness (when I plug into the wall I can still see a difference). I'll see if I can match it using more turns, or possibly the 3-directional winding you've described in http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post76741

Cheers,
kazm

[jeanna]

Hi Jeanna, thanks! No, the bulb was not modified, I did test a gutted one but it's output wasn't as good so I've been using them as is. The light is strong but it's still not full brightness (when I plug into the wall I can still see a difference). I'll see if I can match it using more turns, or possibly the 3-directional winding you've described in http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post76741

Cheers,
kazm

So Kazm,
My question is about the switch.
Since this is the unmodified bulb,...
Have you been able to turn off the light by the switch.?
I find, once it goes on I can only turn mine off by removing the battery.

thank you,

jeanna

[kazm]

So Kazm,
My question is about the switch.
Since this is the unmodified bulb,...
Have you been able to turn off the light by the switch.?
I find, once it goes on I can only turn mine off by removing the battery.

thank you,

jeanna

hi jeanna, i took a look at got some interesting results.

first keep in mind that there is a capacitor inside the standard bulb. you can test this simply by turning your bulb on for a few seconds then off, then completely disconnecting the bulb. The leds will still stay lit with a very tiny dot of light for up to 5 minutes. that said, here's what i found:

with my circuit as it was (secondary wire not connected to the circuit, both ends going to the bulb) the switch did turn the bulb off - but only about about 95%. There was still clearly a small amount of light being produced which would only go away when i turned off the battery. i then noticed that when i touched the positive side of the secondary with my finger most of the light would come back (remember, this is with the switch OFF). when i touched the negative side of the secondary the bulb would go out completely. basically the negative side of the secondary needs to be properly grounded. i verified this by by connecting a croc clip from the negative end of the secondary to the battery ground connection. i turned on the battery, waited 10 seconds, then turned off the switch leaving the battery on. only the small dots from the capcacitor remained, and they went out after 5 minutes.

can you replicate?

[jeanna]

hi jeanna, i took a look at got some interesting results.


. when i touched the negative side of the secondary the bulb would go out completely. basically the negative side of the secondary needs to be properly grounded. i verified this by by connecting a croc clip from the negative end of the secondary to the battery ground connection. i turned on the battery, waited 10 seconds, then turned off the switch leaving the battery on. only the small dots from the capcacitor remained, and they went out after 5 minutes.

can you replicate?

This would be nice, because it is so nice to leave the bulb alone.

The negative side of the secondary is soldered to the inside of the screw socket of the lamp, so I need to find a better place than the secondary itself.
I will see what happens with the screw base.
That should do it, It is the same thing.
I will see about hooking a croc lead to the metal base of the lamp and see what happens.
Thank you.

jeanna

edit.

So, it appears to work but in fact, there is something still on.

If I check the battery ends, when the light is off and grounded and the lights have dimmed to appear off,as described, there is 0.72v in the battery but if I remove the battery it has 1.18v in it, so something is still working.Those caps are keeping the transistor on.
DARN! The leds went out in about 30 seconds too. I was really hopeful.
Do you have any more ideas?

jeanna

[nvisser]

@nvisser
I have one on my desktop that is an old drawing but is basic joule thief with a secondary. I will post that. Please note the drawing shows the BJTL (basic joule thief light) which should be removed when using a secondary, as it sucks out the joules from the battery and kills it quicker than if you only use the secondary for lights.
thank you,
jeanna

Thank you
That will be great!

[jeanna]

very old joule thief with secondary

OK here goes:
Remember to remove the BJTL

jeanna