Sales Info: EFIE, PWM, Mixture Display etc.

[TuxAir]

The answer is at the bottom of his post in case you missed it.

PM him (His user name is RedMeanie) or email him about it. He is good about responding.
The funds can be sent via Paypal to [email protected]
I would reiterate the quantity and shipping address during the Paypal transaction. There is a block you can fill out for that during the transaction.

Kind regards!

JL

I just set up a Paypal Account Solely for this....This is also an email address you can reach me at anytime directly....
[email protected] <<<Use this for PayPal Payments as well as Contact via email if you are a MEMBER and need to talk to me drop me an email with your contact info and I will Contact You ASAP.....

[Redmeanie]

Hello All,
This Friday will be the LAST day I will accept orders for Kits. However, I will be offering assembled devices that I will build in my spare time, to continue to help out. This is eating up too much of my spare time, and my own projects are suffering. I will post a link to the devices I have assembled and ready to ship.I will still be taking PayPal and will keep the pricing as affordable as possible. I did not do this for the Money, Obviously and Only intended to help out, which I will continue to do. I think this is the right thing to do for everyone. You won't have to wait for a kit, or have to worry about building or tunning them. I hate having to do this, but my free time has been eaten up and I hate making any of you wait for back orders of parts and bad coordination of ordering on my part lately.
Im glad I was given an opportunity to help everyone!

Thanks,
Lee & Mira

[jaybone]

Your efforts are greatly appreciated Lee and Mira.
I had lots of challenges building and installing these devices, but I have learned a tremendous amount along the way, and that is after all the main purpose for me, saving fuel is the bonus!

[paztruk]

Thank you

Thank you Redmeanie for your hard work and knowledge sharing.

I'm not sure if anyone else tried making the Efie without your kit as I did, but after trying to get the components on a pre-made board then seeing what a finished kit looks like....

Well I ordered my kits today and can't wait to receive them.

[west_beach]

Thank you Redmeanie for the work on the EFIE. And big thanks to everyone else who contributes to the HOD project, especially Aaron, ashtweth, etc, etc.

I'm not an auto expert, and I have never even done the electronics 101 course, but I'm pretty good with Oracle and Unix which doesn't help much here. I just have a personal project like millions of other people to work on an alternative for my tranportation needs. I DON'T WANT TO BE A SLAVE TO EXXON, BP, AND THE OIL BARONS.

So I put an HOD kit in my 2003 Neon and got zero gains. I put O2 sensor extender on my pre-cat sensor and, as Aaron, got zero gains. It was redmeanie's comment that brought light to my situation. The computer has to boot up, and then you can beat it at its own game by modifying the 02 sensor signal. I can understand that, and I am eternally grateful for the insight.

My friends and family keep asking me how my HOD project is going. With everyone's help in this forum, I can soon explain to them the best ways to do things. Someone should mass produce the right kits, no?

[samregina]

Still need help with my Jeep hemi

Hey, guys...I've been on this for 4 weeks now. Obsessed would be an accurate term.
Dual 5 plate cells with a circulation pump turning out 2.3 lpm hho at 22 amps.
Dual EFIE on pre cat O2 sensors...no mpg improvement.
MAP sensor resistor - can dial down gph but PCM takes over every 20 sec or so and sends gph back above baseline - must be starving the cat so PCM dumps fuel in.
Have not wrapped O2 sensors yet. That is next on the list.

I would be discouraged but for two things.
One - there is a guy in town with a 2008 Hemi Ram P/U who has got his truck up to 26 mpg on the road.
Two - check out the hho2you.com website from Las Cruces, NM. Read his "Facts" over on the right side of his site. He has listed the true research results over the past 3 decades, including Roy McAlister's research on H2 assisted ICEs. The technology works by improving the efficiency of the gasoline combustion, BUT, and this is probably the biggest but to overcome, the more rapid flame speed demands a retarding of the timing.

For example when I am riding down I-565 here in Huntsville watching my gph while I am dialing up my MAP, going from 4.5 gph to 3.5 gph and just counting the money I am going to save...I look at my timing and I am running 30 degrees before TDC. Data shows that with the hho induced flame speed increase from 4k feet per second up to almost 40k fps, you have to have a timing setting of maybe 4 degrees before TDC to even 1-2 degrees after TDC. When you actually do that the majority of explosive force and burn heat goes into moving the piston...not into heating the cylinder walls or exhaust.

But how in the world am I gonna get my Mopar PCM to do that?

I believe that is where the money is for EFI systems...Any of you out there got any ideas?

[samregina]

One more quick question

Do we have a thread going here at Energetics for practical installation issues for hho/MAP/EFIE?

[jstadwater]

Need more instruction please...........

@Redmeanie

I got your package in the mail and have started soldering together the PWM. Everything looks to be of excellent quality, thank you much. I have a pic attached, can you tell me if it looks right so far? I don't have the wires or FETS hooked up yet. On the lower right side in the pic on the paper, there are (4) 47K resistors side by side. There are (5) total of these 47K, the schematic shows the fifth one on the lower right corner of the board......there is no place for it and also is not shown to be there in the pic of the PWM on the paper. Also there is a red colored component on the upper right corner just below the 4005 diode in the pic on the paper (with holes to accomodate it's placement in the board) but not listed in the schematic to the left of the pic, and not in the package. Can you offer me some instruction on what to do in this matter? I would also like if you could tell me the proper location to hook up some type of potentiometer that I can run into the vehicle to adjust the amount of amps (& amount of hho) from inside the car. (Is that the function of the 250K trimpot?) Or is this board just meant to be used for brute force app.? Sorry for all the newbee questions, but I still have a couple more to ask. What guage wire do you recommend for the + & - for the board and what guage is good for the mosfets? On the wiring diagram it states "may need zener or movistor here", what is it, how would I hook it up, and how do I know if I need one? I have another PWM from internet that has full adjustments for gate, pulse, frequency, and mark/space, but it will only handle 5 amps and I need to run several cells. I guess I thought I would end up with a fully adjustable unit that would handle more amps. Any extra help you could offer me would be greatly appreciated, as I am anxious to hook up this hho unit to the vehicle. Thanks for all your hard work and support for everyone here, have a great day.

Mike, Florida

[Redmeanie]

@Redmeanie

I got your package in the mail and have started soldering together the PWM. Everything looks to be of excellent quality, thank you much. I have a pic attached, can you tell me if it looks right so far? I don't have the wires or FETS hooked up yet. On the lower right side in the pic on the paper, there are (4) 47K resistors side by side. There are (5) total of these 47K, the schematic shows the fifth one on the lower right corner of the board......there is no place for it and also is not shown to be there in the pic of the PWM on the paper. Also there is a red colored component on the upper right corner just below the 4005 diode in the pic on the paper (with holes to accomodate it's placement in the board) but not listed in the schematic to the left of the pic, and not in the package. Can you offer me some instruction on what to do in this matter? I would also like if you could tell me the proper location to hook up some type of potentiometer that I can run into the vehicle to adjust the amount of amps (& amount of hho) from inside the car. (Is that the function of the 250K trimpot?) Or is this board just meant to be used for brute force app.? Sorry for all the newbee questions, but I still have a couple more to ask. What guage wire do you recommend for the + & - for the board and what guage is good for the mosfets? On the wiring diagram it states "may need zener or movistor here", what is it, how would I hook it up, and how do I know if I need one? I have another PWM from internet that has full adjustments for gate, pulse, frequency, and mark/space, but it will only handle 5 amps and I need to run several cells. I guess I thought I would end up with a fully adjustable unit that would handle more amps. Any extra help you could offer me would be greatly appreciated, as I am anxious to hook up this hho unit to the vehicle. Thanks for all your hard work and support for everyone here, have a great day.

Mike, Florida

Ok,
Disregard that 5th resistor. It was a typo that was never corrected. The extra component on the board is not needed in this application. On the wire I run 12 gauge on the mosfets, 10 gauge on power and ground. The 250k vr is used for adjustment. You can replace the on board one with an off board one if you want, just run wires and connect the same way. Gate is not needed in a "Booster", at least in my, and most others experience. Frequency is set already in the ball park that you need to be. The only adjustment you really need be concerned with in a "Booster" is Pulse width - Duty Cycle.

Other than that looks good!

[jstadwater]

Thanks a million!

I just wanted to make sure I am doing this correctly, thanks for that reply. I may have this hooked up in the vehicle by the first of the week. I'll post my results as I obtain them. For the wire conections, would I just (carefully) drill the board to a little bigger holes to acommodate the wire size? And also, if I use an off-board trimpot, it needs to be the same value as the current one (250K)? I have some that are three prong, as this one, but they are 850K, not sure if that will work. Thanks again for everything, you are definitely TOP-NOTCH!!!


Mike, in hot & sunny Florida

[Redmeanie]

I just wanted to make sure I am doing this correctly, thanks for that reply. I may have this hooked up in the vehicle by the first of the week. I'll post my results as I obtain them. For the wire conections, would I just (carefully) drill the board to a little bigger holes to acommodate the wire size? And also, if I use an off-board trimpot, it needs to be the same value as the current one (250K)? I have some that are three prong, as this one, but they are 850K, not sure if that will work. Thanks again for everything, you are definitely TOP-NOTCH!!!


Mike, in hot & sunny Florida

Yes, Just drill the holes out carefully. Go through the copper and out the Board. This will keep the copper from pulling of the board. And do it at high speed with a good bit.

The Pot needs to be 200K or 250K. This will keep the circuit "In Tune" so to speak. Any mod of the Pot, caps or resistors will effect everything especially frequency. This size potentiometer is very common, thats why I use them...

[jstadwater]

Hey Redmeanie,

PWM works GREAT!! Now I'm working on the dual-efie, have both boards all soldered together with wire leads also soldered in. Do you have a schematic that would assist me easily getting the rotary switch and DTDP power switch hooked up to the board's wiring? I'm sure I can figure it out, but a schematic would make it alot easier, if you have one drawn up. Thanks for everything.

Mike, Florida

[InTheField]

Hey Redmeanie,

PWM works GREAT!! Now I'm working on the dual-efie, have both boards all soldered together with wire leads also soldered in. Do you have a schematic that would assist me easily getting the rotary switch and DTDP power switch hooked up to the board's wiring? I'm sure I can figure it out, but a schematic would make it alot easier, if you have one drawn up. Thanks for everything.

Mike, Florida

I don't know what you got with your kits from Red, but my kits included excellent papers for each showing the parts, the board, a completed board AND had a schematic too. Sure glad I got them before Red decided the hassle was too much. THANKS AGAIN RED!

[Redmeanie]

Im Back....

Well after a big nightmare of a month or so Im back...We had allot going on with Property Damage in the Hurricane that blew through here, and the Headache that goes along with that. I have since caught up on everything and as of now am available. Im sorry if any questions went unanswered for long, or if my answers were short but I only had 24hrs each day...

So if anyone needs the kits I am making them available. I have my nephew helping and in exchange he gets to learn So feel free to order what you need....Order time will be greatly reduced also!

[wooden5]

hi red,
did you get my e-mail..?