Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[hh1341]

Coil

The Mighty Ren,

Who got my SG going a while back, which kept me going, .....posed the question....... :-

.........What happens when you put iron in your air core?


So I tried it, and it lowered the freq from 3K to 1K.

Now I would like to determine what effect the turns ratio has on the air coil in circuit.

So I think I need to build a multi tapped air coil.

What say you all?

Carl

[ren]

You are changing the inductance of the coil by placing iron/steel inside You can actually tune it simply by sliding it up and down, kinda like a trombone Check some of Tesla's patents, he used this to tune some of his devices. Your right Carl, air core is faster, because it doesnt have any steel to magnetize. Could be some interesting experiments with that. Multi tapped could be a little trickey. Id try making a couple of different coils, all around the 400-600 turn mark. Use different gauges for different models. The thicker gauge power wire will probably draw more, but charge better.

@ Agongon. Good work! Very neat diagram, I see you have been studying (Please if you can repost the schematic including a note that its actually John Bedinis mostly, I dont want to take any credit for that.)

There is only on correction I might add at a glance. You are missing a 1uF cap in the 555 I believe. The 1uF you have marked should be 10uF and it smooths out the voltage to the 555. The 1uF comes off R2 to ground from memory, R2 is also 20k + 150k pot for varying dump frequency. Oh and you have draw a triac in place of the SCR, which I have never tried, but I believe will work fine. My model actually uses a MJL21194 there, seems to work better. Oh and there is a voltage regulator for the 555, so you can run up to 36v without damaging it.

A few changes Ive made since then.

Both coils on the main oscillator now meet at the collector, that is, there are two power coils now paralleled to the same transistor. Diode is off the collector in traditional SG fashion and goes straight to bridge after that. There is no bridge over the ignition coil, because it joins to the collector I saw no need for a second bridge there. There is a second bridge, but that is for the fan and its cap.

I now have two ignition coils, primaries wired in series and the light between the two HV outputs (center plugs). Light intensity increases and amp draw decreases. The other way the high voltage was allowed a path to ground via the CFL, now the only path that I can see is through the transistor, and thus the diode

@ Lid, that is a decent size cap. Maybe even double its capacity? You should get decent charging off that.

I did a charge test last night to see how well the back end battery held its voltage. With just the charger running (no light or fan):
Start Run:12.60 Start Charge:12.20
Finish Run:12.20 Finish Charge:12.82.

Drawing 250ma (lower than the batteries c20). Charge battery loaded up with a 300ma globe afterwards and it held its voltage remarkably well Definately not a static charge

Good work people

[**~Imhotep~**]

The globe is the ge 150 watt equilvant 2700 lumens. I run it at 2 light levels hi and low. Im still using the relay for high level light. But you cant hear it inside the box. i will be trying Ren's setup next.

My setup is easily interchangeable for different circuits. I am going to Incorporate a flasher I already accomplished this before and got the part to do it. It can be used for signaling or Halloween..lol. I also will be including the solar panel for daytime charging as well. And coming up with a casing for the bulb so it wont get damaged in transit. Lots more work to go

[Shamus]

Sorry if this is pulling the thread off topic, but is the non-lite version still coming?

[ren]

non lite? As in just a charger?

[Agongon]

Interpretation Of Ren's setup-[ 12-volt system IROL]_Corrected.

Thanks a lot Ren for pointing out suggestions. I have chosen SCR instead.

Lidmotor, you're welcome. It feels good when even small things we do help humanity in many ways. Your works are awesome!

Bodkins, I'm sorry that I cannot answer your question right now. This link talks about 555 Timer - Frequency and Duty Cycle. I hope it helps.

555 Timer Calculator



Note: Mostly of this circuit is of John Bedini's.

[ren]

Thanks Ag.

The pot is a 5k on the main oscillator and I do have a 1n4007 off the collector, probably isnt necessary though.

Caps on the back end the experimenter can play with, You dont necessarily want those specific caps. Take a look in the Bedini solidstate oscillators thread for some more tips on cap choice.

The SCR is a good start. Remember though, it was specified (as all parts usually are) as part of a whole. Change one component and you may need to change another to get the full effects desired.

Imhotep, nice Thats a rather large bulb there. I will have to try one larger and see if it makes a noticeable difference.

[Bodkins]

Imhotep nice box you got there.

Very,Very,
helpfuly site for the like of lidmotor,waterhouse24,Agongon. dont think they do international but i can post on if you wish?

Electroteach - educational electronic kits for students, teachers and hobbiests

Logic gate ,Opto-isolator, 555 equal ms astable multivibrator,two-transistor high gain Darlington amplifier,Single led battery monitor,
Transistor inverter,Timer CR led output!
easy builds we can chance a resistor or two and get what we need

[Shamus]

non lite? As in just a charger?

As in the simpler, more powerful 3 piece version hinted at near the beginning of this thread. Here's one place it was talked about.

[Lidmotor]

The IROL Cap Pulser on a bread board

I finally pieced together the cap pulser today thanks to Agongon and his easy to follow circuit diagram. Many thanks Agongon and Ren for helping me to understand enough to get it built on a bread board and get it working. Facinating little device. I learned alot doing this build. Wish that I had a scope so I could see the wave forms. Here is the video of it working amongst a big pile of parts on my table.

Lidmotor
YouTube - Imhotep Oscillator Fan/Lite--Solid State Cap Pulser

[**~Imhotep~**]

Excellent work lidmotor i knew you could do it Have you had a chance to measure the total current draw with the fan and light running? Boy this circuit got complicated..lol Thank you goes out to John Bedini for putting out such a great working charging circuit.

As far as the basic oscillator charger I will be releasing that soon. i have been a bit sidetracked boxing up and refining the light but i will sit down and work on getting that released soon. Great work everyone

[hh1341]

Coil

I remember someone mentioned earlier in the thread, that they thought they were getting about 700 volts from the coil..............

I measured mine, and I'm getting about 600.


Carl

[Lidmotor]

Current draw

Excellent work lidmotor i knew you could do it Have you had a chance to measure the total current draw with the fan and light running? Boy this circuit got complicated..lol Thank you goes out to John Bedini for putting out such a great working charging circuit.

As far as the basic oscillator charger I will be releasing that soon. i have been a bit sidetracked boxing up and refining the light but i will sit down and work on getting that released soon. Great work everyone

Imhotep,
I havn't got my Fan and Lite wired in a way to run both at one time yet. I have been focused on getting the cap pulser built. The circuit that I'm testing the pulser out on is just the Bedini Fan circuit with a single Ignition Lite coil attached at the collector and + of the drive battery. The Fan draws 100 to 200 milliamps with fair charging. When I connect the light circuit, the fan stops, the draw goes up to 300 to 400 milliamps but with better charging. When I turn the Lite off and let the system self- oscillate the draw goes down 20 to 30 milliamps but the charging is fantastic!

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[DavidE]

Clues?

“You are changing the inductance of the coil by placing iron/steel inside. You can actually tune it simply by sliding it up and down, kinda like a trombone.”
-ren

TROMBONE, trombone… hmmm.

“Mr. Tesla got into the driver's seat, pushed the two rods in and stated, We now have power".

[**~Imhotep~**]

Imhotep,
I havn't got my Fan and Lite wired in a way to run both at one time yet. I have been focused on getting the cap pulser built. The circuit that I'm testing the pulser out on is just the Bedini Fan circuit with a single Ignition Lite coil attached at the collector and + of the drive battery. The Fan draws 100 to 200 milliamps with fair charging. When I connect the light circuit, the fan stops, the draw goes up to 300 to 400 milliamps but with better charging. When I turn the Lite off and let the system self- oscillate the draw goes down 20 to 30 milliamps but the charging is fantastic!

Cheers,

Lidmotor

the new version i am doing uses the (LARGE) fan from radio shack .it has such a large pulse off the huge coils it pulses the relay to run the light on low level light mode (1/3 output),it current limits the relay so there is no sticking on the contacts or arcing it has been running long term no problems and has good light output and is silent because of the box. it makes no current draw difference when the bulb is screwed in or unscrewed,the charge ability drops a little with the bulb screwed in, the current draw can be controlled from the adjustment of the fan base resistor .i use a little trick to get full brightness and the fan all running together.i got rid of the condenser on this version and replaced it with a smaller cap. i will be adapting the bedini pulsar with a much easier off the shelf circuit ,and trying it next