Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[marseye]

Yes, I think you understood well. If 1 & 2 gives you a ohms signal : they are linked, isn't it ? So : they are 1 wire Then, there must be a start and an end, right ? The same for the other 2 poles.
Then, having 2 wires, you can apply what is shown for a real bedini motor, as shown on the link that I have previously given to you. The principle is the same if you have two independent wires, wheter it is monopole (as in a regular wheel) or multipole (as it is in your fan).
If no spin : swap only 1 wire in/out (so that the current will now flow with the same direction in both wires : induction is had that way)

Now, you can watch your bulb glowing ...

[franzink]

defective diode and 2n3055

i have tried on a cooling fan and somehow ended up with the diode in the wrong direction of the 2n3055, i have checked the components again and the 2 diodes and 2n3055 do not have continuity anymore

ill buy extra diodes and transistor and test the Imhotep circuit again tomorrow and will solder the components into a PCB with many holes instead to be 100% certain i do not commit any errors

will post here if i have succeeded

im staying here in SouthEastAsia will it be perfectly fine to use a 220Volts Neon? bec they do not have 110V Neon here

[marseye]

Continuity is not the point.

Put your multimeter in Ohms reading configuration. Then, your 2N3055 should give you a reading above 0.500v when :
- Positive probe on the base and Negative probe on the collector
- Positive probe on the base and Negative probe on the emitter
- You should have no readings in reverse order, except that of the diode if it's in place.

For the diode, you should read the same value (more than 0.500v) when putting the positive probe on the anode and the negative probe on the Cathode (side with a white or black line).

If you're successful with these tests, then nothing burned.

85v neon bulb (or NE2: 65v already with a resistor) should be better than 220v bulbs, because the spikes may reach slightly around 200v peak only. As 110v bulbs already glow faintly, 220v may be too high.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I have a question but first I'd like to offer my observations on using the ignition coils high voltage with cfl's. I can run my cfl's nicely at about 12v, .5A pulsing a small transformer w/ 555 timer, however when you decide to pulse the cfl with the ignition coils H.V. it will affect the mercury element inside and it is not usable anymore with the transformer and then only the ignition coil can light the cfl, for whatever its worth.
My question is I have a couple of old 12V, 7A.H. lead acid gel and they can only hold about 9 volts, I've tried the flyback pulsing but it overvoltages instantly although at lower inputs it doesnt over volt so quickly but still doesnt seem to be raising and holding the voltage or rejuvenating or de-sulphating these batteries, has anyone had much luck reviving batteries that are apparently this sulphated.
your help appreciated. thanks
peace love light

[marseye]

@ SkyWatcher
Good question. But don't know if you shouldn't have opened a new thread for this.
I personnaly never managed to charge any good battery from a coil's flyback, the coil being pulsed from a 2N3055, which is triggered by a 555 in astable mode with 2 pots and a bunch of condenser at hand (to allow different frequencies with different on/off time pulse settings).
Getting promising readings from my oscilloscope though, no voltage ever grew up in the batteries for more than 0.02v. Even after I downscaled the tension through a 220/12v adapter's coil. Whatever the tension out of the flyback, I never obtained much more than a 0.5 mA current out. I have no experience about desulfatation.
So, I'd be interested in some other users' answers too, about charging and reviving any battery this way around.

[franzink]

finally got it to work

TO Marseye/SkyWatcher = i bought new 1-2n3055, 2-1N4007's components yesterday and had it assembled basing on the Imhotep's diagram and the Bedini SSG works now and i connected a 220V Neon Bulb and it glows and it measures 30V when i tuned my potentiometer

Now what measurements should i take to fully understand the Bedini Circuit?. I understand it works as a charger, but this small circuit can charge what type's of batteries? A, AA, AAA, 9V, Lead Acid Type Emergency Light?

My question is when will you know to stop charging the Dead Battery? 1 hour? 2 hours? is there a mathematical computation to arrive CHARGING TIMES for Different types of Batteries?

Also im interested to drive Dead CFL's using this technology and probably light my room and computers or drive an inverter???

[marseye]

Happy to know that a 220v neon bulb works. This confirms that tension is not the point. Great for you.
What to charge with that ? Some people have had problems trying to charge 12v batteries at their max by using an Imhotep's Bedini fan. So, I'd say : whatever is under 12v will do. Or feed your fan with 15v, maybe 24v.

For deciding when to stop a battery from charging : what I do is closely watch its voltage grow, considering their start tension, then considering the tension showed some short time after it's been hooked to the charging process (until when a rapid increase starts to slow down), then trying to figure out how the augmented tension is related to the start tension.
Periodically, I may disconnect the charging process, wait around 20 minutes for the battery to 'cool down', and then read the tension it reaches after its fast fall because of the multimeter's probe being applied... I don't know (and don't think) of any scientific calculation, as science is actually against the phenomena we're observing. So, it's up to us to watch closely.
Running an inverter directly ? If you manage to do it, please let us all know. But, in my mind, you mainly have to run an inverter from a charged battery, as usual. Obtaining a direct conversion process is the dream of us all

A dead cfl is a dead cfl. You won't light it up again. A modified cfl is someting else. Imhotep has shown us all how it was possible to light up one with the help of an ignition coil and a relay. There are other means than the relay (which produces lots of noises...). Some of us feed the ignition coil with a 555 timer pulsing a 2N3055. But it's more current consumming compared to a relay. Though, a relay is not intended to swith such fast for long... Mine burned in 2 days (I never could get rid of the arcing resulting).

Now it's up to you. Good luck.

[dllabarre]

success!

I converted a fan last night and put together everything but the neon bulb and batteries. Today I picked up a couple 9volt battery connectors and a neon bulb.

First attemp failed. I switched the 2 power wires from the fan and it runs.
Now I have to check all voltages and amps to determine if it's doing anything productive.

Thanks for all the videos and posts.
DonL

[marseye]

About what you said about amperage being productive :

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2003-free-energy-last-step-step-must-see-19.html#post54796

It's gonna be long if the read amperage is low ? yes, but the aim is somewhere else.

With 9v, having no battery or/and neon bulb, I say ok. But with a 12v regular battery amperage, you could have fryed your transistor because of no neon bulb attached (which is there to compensate when no battery, as well as for setting right your circuit when it glows, until one attaches a battery). So, please excuse me for this reaction, but your claim may just have induced some newbies in a wrong direction.
For them : YOU ALWAYS NEED AT LEAST A BULB AND/OR A BATTERY, or it could have cost you more after you'd have fryed your unique transistor. It's just about securing your investment, which may be a concern depending on how rich you are.
Anyway, Dllabarre, you're among whoever has tryed this experience. Which is always a first but very good start. (Sorry if I seem rude : my english is bad. I just intended to help any future experiencer).

[timaleric]

YouTube - power of wmw on wheel

if anybody likes ask for ditales new to this form can make viedo with all speckes

[Joit]

YouTube - power of wmw on wheel

if anybody likes ask for ditales new to this form can make viedo with all speckes

Hi and .

Mostly the Power you can gain with extra Coil is to less to feed it back,
i guess its the same by you ?
But looks not bad at all

[dllabarre]

With 9v, having no battery or/and neon bulb, I say ok. But with a 12v regular battery amperage, you could have fryed your transistor because of no neon bulb attached (which is there to compensate when no battery, as well as for setting right your circuit when it glows, until one attaches a battery). So, please excuse me for this reaction, but your claim may just have induced some newbies in a wrong direction.
For them : YOU ALWAYS NEED AT LEAST A BULB AND/OR A BATTERY, or it could have cost you more after you'd have fryed your unique transistor.

I sure hope you were not referring to me with this posting of yours.

I never said I turned my fan on without the batteries and neon bulb connected.

I had to wait until the next day, when I could buy batteries and a neon bulb, before I could test it.

DonL

[marseye]

DonL,
Sorry I understood wrong. I sincerely thought that having "put everything together" had inspired you to test it from a psu or an adapter. Since you had to buy "9v battery connectors". Must have missed a period for me to understand well. So : nevermind.
Anyway, this never enough repetead info might be usefull to new practitionners.

[dllabarre]

@marseye That's OK. I've misread or read too fast other posts before. I try to reread each post to be sure I understand what the person is saying.


I have basic electronics knowledge.
I've built many electrical projects and can read schematics quite well.

However; I do have a problem with my setup.
Fan runs but the source battery discharges faster then the charge battery charges.

I verified my wiring 3 times.
Without a charge battery the neon glows and I can tune it until the neon is brightest.

Source = 9.09V
Charge = 8.83V

Then I reconnect the charge battery with the neon still connected.

After running the fan for 2 minutes:
Source = 8.34V
Charge = 8.89V

What would cause this?
Bad fan?

Thank you for any help
DonL

[marseye]

@Dllabarre
Mmmmh... Do you use 9v "cell like" batteries ? Around 1500 mAh ? Because a fan from a computer generally eats around 250mA.
Anyway, your battery may be showing a normal tension fall while running, and may need some time (after the fan is stopped) to climb back up to it's voltage. You should try to read it after a 1/4 of hour, to know what it really consumed...
Even the car battery I use shows a tension fall when working. Hope this is it. But the better could be that you use a 12v 7Ah battery as your source. Just think then of a mean to recharge it sometimes (from above 12v), because of course the system is not really overunity, and swaping batteries has an end.
Hope I helped.