Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[**~Imhotep~**]

I just completed my latest addition to the fan experiment. I have just taken the first fan with NO modifications and im charging a battery strictly off the coil collapse of the existing circuit. Its is working. If this works well I might be able to advise on a procedure that you would not have to modify the fans at all. They will self-start and draw a little less current no adjustments no neons, no bedini circuit of any kind. Using the existing circuit. The reason I was able to do this is because Shiva's computer has a side fan that is clear red. And has colorful leds for show, the mounts had cracked so we replaced it, because it was clear and had the additional leds, when i pulled off the sticker it had access holes to the circuit board, not all fans will have this. But his particular fan did. You can clearly see the three posts through the clear plastic some of you might run into these fans. two of the post when you look at them on the oscilloscope will have the spikes the common one, the third one, will not. I was able to attach the recovery diode to one of the post because the circuit pad was exposed through one of the access windows. And i wired the charge battery ground straight to the positive source supply for the fan. And it is running now, and charging a completely dead 6 volt lead acid. It appears that the spikes are 30 to 60 volts. Nice ones. I will keep you posted. Some of these fans there is a great possibility you wont have to alter at all and still get spike action out of them. More information to come as the data is collected.

[CPU3rother]

[**~Imhotep~**]

i use a cap to smooth the spikes across the charge battery ,the capacity seems to charge large mf caps slower and smaller mf quicker ,more cycles . hope that helps in the experiments.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hi imhotep,

Tx for swift reply to my 3 fans-question.
I suppose for charging a cap, you would have to place the cap across the charging battery.--Is that correct?

I get a bit confused by the different ratings for caps that can be found in postings on this forum.

Some suggest to use caps with high voltage and low capacitance (600V, 50 uF), others maintain one should use caps with low voltage and high capacitance
(60V, 33.000uF).--Can you explain the different behavior of these two possibillities?--Tx

I have another question re. measuring the spikes with a scope.--Where would you attach the probes of the scope and what would be the basic setting on the scope?


Looking forward to your knowledgeable reply
Peter

to measure the spikes i hook the charge positive directly to a 10x probe and start on ac coupling setting and vary the other volts per division settings and time per division settings to get the data i am looking for .i also use internal trigger. and hook ground to the charge ground . also if you vary the intensity and focus the spikes will show up better in some cases.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hello again.

Has been playing with my setup for a while, have some observations and questions too. Haven't tried to charge any batteries yet, only tested circuit with my multimeter and tried to charge 100 V cap.

Observations:
1) Works with 65V AC neon, and it doesn't get too bright even connected to 20V DC source.
2) Neon glows in way of pulsing, If I calibrate fan for max speed, pulsing frequency goes up, and it looks like it isn't pulsing any more.
3) Yet, the neon is brighter when frequency is lower, and when frequency is lower - current draw is lower to.
4) The fan gives interesting sound, I concluded that it is because of load applied to one side of it. It is a kind of high pitch sound impulse, repeats at the same frequency as the neon lights up. But the pitch goes down as long as fan goes faster. Didn't have time to make video...
5) Max resistance on variable resistor @10V source was ~ 3,09 kOhm, more than that and fan will slowly stop spinning.
6) Measured DC voltage on output, was able to get from ~ 1 - 9 V without load. The highest voltage was when neon light was the brightest. And that was @ 20 V source and relatively low rpm.
7) Accidentally disconnected high-speed diode, yet circuit worked. Couldn't see any difference at all in my current/voltage readings, compared with or without diode. Yet from listening to fan sound I intuitive concluded that circuit will be better without the diode.
8) Tried charging 100V 1000uF cap, it went up to ~ 60 V almost instantaneously. But can't compare to convectional charging, because don't have 60 V DC charging source.

And so - few questions:
1) Is "pulsing" operation common with this set up? As far as I understand, It should be...
2) What function has the high-speed diode in this circuit? I understand, that in one way the current flow must be limited (to create voltage difference between transistor's base and emitter), but that we can accomplish with just severing the circuit in that point. Why we must permit current flow in opposite direction?
3) About 65V AC neon - does it means that my circuit is "weak"? Or it is quite flexible about neon parameters?

So far, looks interesting. Nice thing to play around. Thanks.

i am not sure why bedini put the high speed diode across the base - emitter
junction. your circuit ran without it .it is hooked up to a trigger coil that also has a coil collapse interesting question .

[Pcurrius]

Measurements

I've been playing around with some fans and they are cool. But which is the main purpose of this fans? I explain better. This fans at difference of the normal circuits they use the collapse of the coils (any references to explain me clearly what it is?) to recharge a battery (normally this battery will be useless because the spikes and the current are very low) and also do mechanical work. Which is the best way you find to charge the batteries and then they don't discharged when you just connected where you want to use it? use the SSG bedini motor?
Besides I would like to test the COP of the circuit. Here nobody talked about the energy given and the energy consumed by the circuit. Are this circuits higher than 1.0 COP? How can we measure it? Anyone could explain how to get the measurements to know the usable energy (the energy charging the battery plus the energy from the fan). This two potency's are measurable but I doubt how. By the side of the fan P=W*R (where W is rad/s and R is the radius) but I don't know how to measure the back emf that is being charging the battery. Anyone could explain me a little bit about this?
I would like to measure the efficiency of the circuit, I think is more difficult, any ideas?
I'll be posting some pictures or videos of my big fan.

[kniteowl]

Been reading and watching for months, so here is my first post on what I have notice, but first, a big thanks to Imhotep I think perhaps it should be more like you bastard, like I need something else to plunk money into

Anyway, I have been reading, but just reading, as things seemed so complex. It was the simplicity and clear explanation of the fan idea that got me to actually start tinkering. Now onto what I have done so far.

Just my simple observation of the fan conversations that I have done so far. All the fans that I have taken apart, about 30 of them so far (work in computer, have lots of these from power supply and cases) are all wired exactly a like. If looking at them and count the poles as 1 2 3 4, then all 30 of them are wired as 1&3 and 2&4. Strange that none of them match the 1&2 3&4 that some others have mention. None are bi-filer wound. Broke some (mostly ball bearing ones) trying to take it apart, some come apart very easy (mostly sleeve bearing ones). All the ones that I didn't break, work just fine. All have 3 legs, one with two wires and the other 2 legs have one wire on them only. I just heat the one leg that has 2 wires and unwind the wire. Split them apart so that I now have 4 separate wires. The 2 that were originally connected together, I connect as the positive legs, the others as negative, check for continuity to find out which one goes to which. Once this is done, works each and every time.

I have not tried running them in parallel yet, just one at a time. I typically get pulses of about 10x the input. I have run them all from 9 - 30 volts and they all work just fine. Always get about 10x when I hit the sweet spot. I use a variable lab power supply that shows me the voltage and current and when I hit the sweet spot, the current drops to a minimum.

Now the part that always seems to happen, when I am charging batteries, if the battery voltage is low, it goes up fast, example: When I charge my 18volt nimh battery, from 0 to about 15 volts, only takes about 2-3 minutes, however after that, it can take all day to get to the remaining voltage. Perhaps in parallel, it will work better? The part that has not worked well for me so far is that all the battery that was charged, discharge almost as fast. I am hope that it is just because the batteries just aren't condition yet. Some of the batteries are good, others are bad and need conditioning. It does not seem to make any difference.

So far, I have tried the following types of batteries.

nimh, lead acid (gel type only), and alkaline, all charge and behaves the exactly same.

anyway, enough ranting. Back to more testing.

Teng

[kniteowl]

3-phase motor

Here is a question for you seniors and guru. So far, all these fans are 2-phase BLDC motors, however if I wanted to work on a larger motor, most of those are 3-phase BLDC motors. Can I do this also, or would I have to rewind them into 2-phase to be able to do this conversion. I have access to a larger motor, and I would love to see what it can do, however it is 3-phase. Perhaps external triggering with something else. What do you think. I know that there may be extra work, however I like the off the shelf stuff, as it is a precision device and like the fan, may pose to be a simple thing that more people can easily test.

Teng

[framednlv]

When I charge my 18volt nimh battery, from 0 to about 15 volts, only takes about 2-3 minutes, however after that, it can take all day to get to the remaining voltage. Teng

Look at the typical discharge chart on page 8(pdf page 9):

http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/bsgoem/Panasonic_NiCd_Hdbk_03-04_v1.pdf

For the three phase motor you might have to remove the magnets and add some. A typical three phase cdrom motor would have 9-tooth stator and 12-pole magnets where the fans have 4-tooth stator and 4-pole magnets. There are some 12-tooth stators that could be done with 1:1 stator to magnets. Just some thoughts, not sure what you have on hand.

Chris
PS,
Be carefull chargeing those LIPO batteries. They explode and have tremendious amounts of energy.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Here is a question for you seniors and guru. So far, all these fans are 2-phase BLDC motors, however if I wanted to work on a larger motor, most of those are 3-phase BLDC motors. Can I do this also, or would I have to rewind them into 2-phase to be able to do this conversion. I have access to a larger motor, and I would love to see what it can do, however it is 3-phase. Perhaps external triggering with something else. What do you think. I know that there may be extra work, however I like the off the shelf stuff, as it is a precision device and like the fan, may pose to be a simple thing that more people can easily test.

Teng

i have not done the larger 3 phase motors but i have been thinking about the larger scooter motors that are brush less .what i am working on is trying to take the back emf and coil collapse off one of these systems and run it back to the front end. for increased mileage . when i test and finish findings i will be doing a movie with the proceedure. it is months down the road

[CitizenDC]

update

FAN UPDATE:
I've since converted 2 more fans with success .
I notice a 30v output (at 12v input) of 2 of the fans. The smallest fan removed from a video card (35mm in diameter) produced the weakest output and required a 10k resistor to allow the Neon to fire up.
The others 1x80mm and 1x95mm required 2-5k ohm resistors to produce the best results for me so far.
(note: this doesn't mean the smallest fan (35mm) are not good! just the one i used )

NEONS:
For the Neons. I was using 220v, best I can find around here.
They will light up though its a small orange glow from the bulb. The 220v Neon's contain a resistor, this can be removed and will produce a much better lighting result for finding/tuning your spikes.

POT RESISTORS:
Also, sometimes the horizontal pots will burn out if you adjust them to quickly from low to high resistance or vice-versa. Did some reading up on this and it seems that its a mechanical flaw of the pot, when moving to fast the inner contact doesn't make proper contact resulting sometimes in a dead/damaged pot. One gentlemen recommended putting a 100 omh resistor after the pot to help prevent this from happening.

SPIKES!
I've noticed that the higher the resistance, the higher the noise from the fan-coil, and the brighter the Neon burns.
I've used 2k, 5k horizontal pots with the best results.

CHARGING:
I've charged lead acid and lead-calcium(think they are referred to as gel) batteries. I have seriously mixed results and no opinion as of yet. Sometimes they charge fast, sometimes slow. Sometimes they take for-eeeeeeeeeeever to charge past a certain point.
I've gotten my hands on 2x7ah lead acids to condition with the charger and will post results much later on these.

PERFORMANCE ENHANCEMENT:
From what I've read the transistor and the diode can be substituted.
Currently I'm using the standard 2n3055 transistor and IN4007 diode.
I'm looking at testing the IN914 signal diode and other transistors to see what benefit they can produce.
If you haven't already, please do share your results .

All the best!

[Pcurrius]

Testings

I've been testing my fan and actually I could charge some batteries. My first test was:

12V Primary battery: 11,96 V after 30 min 11,91 V
9 V secondary battery: 0,439 V after 30 min 4,97 V

I charge it again until it gets aprox 8 V then put in the multimeter and discharges at the moment that I connect.

I tried again and from one battery that was 11,56 V down to 11V and my other charged 9V battery when from 1,85V until 8V aprox. and then it works, and still working!

Here you have a picture of my fan configuration.




That's a more bigger fan than the normal one's. I'll be trying to note if there's any difference in the absorbed current (I think will be). I'll be posting any advances that I notice as quickly as they come.

PS: I don't know what means that my multimeter read 0,08 at the scale 20 m (amperes). This means that are going throw 0,08 mA?
Still waiting that the master (Imhotep) answer me my last questions

[CitizenDC]

Hi Pcurrius,

Glad to see your results. Well done!
I'm also impressed that you got that transparent fan wired up. My experience with those fans have required me to brake the shaft from the fan casing due to it (in my case with three thermaltake fans) being molded to the case.

Last night I made a new discovery where by the fan no longer spins but instead the coils oscillate or resonate and produce very good spikes as noted by the neon light shining brightly.
It's really simple, I will be releasing more info as soon as I've verified all the readings.

cheers!

[CitizenDC]

Self Oscillating Fan

Hello again,

Update:
I've discovered a simple method to make the Imhotep-Bedini fan self-oscillate.
By self oscillating, the fan output power is many times higher than before and far bigger spikes are shown via the Neon. The fan doesnt turn but instead makes a high pitch sound. Actually after coils start oscillating you can take the rotor off and it will continue working!

How to:
Firstly, grab a standard stock fan you've converted via Imhotep's design.
The coil-to-coil resistance should be around 40 or 60ohm.
Next you will need a 10k-15K resistor and one 1N419 diode (signal diode).

Replace the components as described here.


Once you have swapped out the components, start with a resistance of 10k omh.
Next, disconnect your output so that the Neon light takes the output strain.

Method 1:
Swing your fan up, it will spin and make a high pitch noise then begin to slow down and bounce back and forth all the time until it comes to a stand still and still making a high pitch sound.
Notice the glow on your Neon. Play with your resistance, increase it to find the resonating sweet spot.

Method 2:
Instead of swinging the fan, there is another method to get this to start which is best done once you have completed method 1 and fine tuned your circuit.
In short, grab the negative (-) output lead of your circuit and and give it a a light wack with another metal object. I have crock clips on my ssg outputs so that I can make better impact contact.
You will also notice just by touching certain parts of the circuit will also get it going into self resonance.

Connecting the output:
Once your coils are resonating and the Neon is brightly lit, the next step is to apply a load. What you will notice is that sometimes the coils will stop resonating when you touch both output leads onto a battery or multimeter.
To get around this you can connect the positive output to a probe or bat terminal then strike the negative to get the circuit resonating again, then make a firm contact in one movement onto the other probe or terminal.
kinda funny, but this is what works for me.

Performance:
You can increase the performance or resonance by adjusting the rotor/fan blades about 90 degrees from its resonating point by taping it down onto the fan case. This creates a 5-10% increase in voltage output.
You will notice the blades will resist you moving them and the coils will make a more noise.

Troubleshooting and Safety:
The resonance or oscillation relies mostly on the resistance. If your is not working, adjust your resistance higher so that when you spin your fan that it doesnt have enough power to keep going, then it will slowly begin to settle and start humming at a high pitch.
If found that the signal diode 1N914 to make this all work.
Also, I dont get resonance when I have a load attached to the fan and I try start it. So always disconnect a load before to get this to work.

Finally, take special care to monitor the coils temperature while you let it resonate, with the smaller stock 80mm fans I've run for about 24 hours now and the heat is no problem but I've not tested all fans.

Once you've done this mod, you can use it as a driver to Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator instead of the auto-relay.

cheers!

[Pcurrius]

results

Hi Pcurrius,

Glad to see your results. Well done!
I'm also impressed that you got that transparent fan wired up. My experience with those fans have required me to brake the shaft from the fan casing due to it (in my case with three thermaltake fans) being molded to the case.

Last night I made a new discovery where by the fan no longer spins but instead the coils oscillate or resonate and produce very good spikes as noted by the neon light shining brightly.
It's really simple, I will be releasing more info as soon as I've verified all the readings.

cheers!

Hi CitizenDC,

jujuju was good work . What I did is take my solder (a thin one that can enter inside the hole that's in the middle of the fan) warming up the metal that is glue with the case, then what you have to do is push gentle the metal to let it go out (take care not to melt the case). So easy as this. I hope you get it.