Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[cyberphreax]

Ok, so I started playing around with this last night and after destroying 3 fans, (just for future reference Panaflow L1A's are HORRIBLE for this) which is too bad since I have about 8 more of them. I finally found a fan that I could get apart. It's a 92mm ball bearing fan with nice big coils. The problem is that I broke one of the inside wires so it's to short to connect to the 4th post. I took another coil that I mangled and unwound some of the wire. I scraped off the coating, soldered it to the wire that's too short and then soldered it to a 4th post I made using a paper clip. I have continuity to all posts so should I be ok? I'm going to play with it some more tonight and build the circuit.

[InTheField]

Finally some feedback/info...

Sorry I haven't posted anything in awhile, but I have been tuning and running the Bedini/Imhotep fan setup for at least a month now (built my first bedini/imhotep setup before actually joining the forums here). I have converted a single 80mm case fan and have a few 120mm case fans converted too...

Hi all,

I built this fan Bedini energizer and have noticed that the recommended 1K pot may not be enough. Have anyone else noticed this?

(findings snipped for brevity)
YES! I didn't have the recommended 2k pot on-hand, so I originally tossed in a 5k on the 80mm fan setup. I can crank it all the way up to 5k and it charges great. It will not start that way. It has to be started with the pot turned down to less than 4k and then turned up.

BUT, here's what I noticed. After first building it, I was not getting the over-charging as others had stated. I moved on and built my first 120mm fan setup figuring that something was wrong with the 80mm setup. What was wrong was my lack of patience! I tried Imhotep's description (& video) of running them in parallel from a single source to a single charge, but found that they were fighting each other. IOW, no matter how I tuned them, they weren't pulsing in resonance (together) and they were putting out different levels. That didn't surprise me too much between the 80mm and 120mm setup, but not being able to get two 120mm setups with the same components to tune together was surprising (& frustrating)! Soooo, I separated them. Single drive source, but using each fan setup to drive it's own charge load.

What I've noticed is that over time they're gaining efficiency. Not major gains, but ever so gradually. When I first built the 80mm setup, the neon would never give off more than a dull glow no matter where I set the pot. The 120mm setup made the neon GLOW! NOW, the 80mm setup (which I had run for nearly a week before building the first 120mm setup) lights up the neon a LOT more than the 120mm setup... and you can see the pulses perfectly. I had/have the 80mm setup and 120mm setups each charging 2 batteries in parallel. (4 batteries total) When I started this run a week ago, the 120mm was charging better than the 80mm, so I put two slightly discharged batteries on the 120mm setup and one slightly discharged along with a completely dead battery on the 80mm setup.

The 120mm charging batteries both started at ~11.2V. The 80mm charging batteries started with one at ~11.25V and the other at >1V... A few days ago, I was checking things and noticed that the 120mm charging batteries were at ~11.75V, BUT the 80mm charging batteries were at ~11.84V and ~6V! That's when I found that the 80mm setup could make the neon really shine... far surpassing the 120mm setup. So, I moved things around. Put all of the 11.75-11.84V batteries as the charge on the 120mm setup and put the (now) ~6V battery as the sole charge on the 80mm setup. So, I let that run for a day and went back to check. The 120mm setup had all three batteries at ~11.84V. The 80mm setup had that little battery at 44.6V!
I checked and rechecked... no, it wasn't holding the charge, but it was up there. Over the course of a few minutes, it dropped back to just over 6V (still up from before). So, I turned it all back on and came back about an hour later... over 40V again! (also discharged, but faster) I decided to put the other "dead" battery that I had originally started this experiment with (and "gave up on") in parallel on this setup. Checked after an hour or so and things were just "normal"... if you can call any of this "normal" Checked after a day and both of those batteries were at ~14.45V. They both discharged again, but as before, one is a little higher (~6.3V) and the other is up from a ~3V to nearly 6V... after discharging down from the initial 14V.

Use an ohm meter to make sure you have 40 to 80 ohms on each set of coils...

I know what the posts and directions have said, but I didn't get those values and my setups are both running... My 80mm setup had initial coil resistance of ~35-37ohms... the 120mm setup had initial coil resistance of >10ohms... I haven't checked the impedance recently.

Bedini's machines use low impedance coils for charging batteries, higher the impedance of the coils, the slower the output battery charges, I don't understand how Imhotep has been able to fast charge his batteries, with the high impedance coils of the fans.

One thing that it appears to me, from reading these posts is that you all are looking for faster, bigger pulses. I'm seeing the opposite for pulse speed vs. charging. With the faster pulses and faster fan speeds, I see less charging and much slower charging. gotoluc seems to be saying that when he cranks up the resistance, the fan speed increases. I don't see that at all... By cranking up the resistance on the pot, I slow down the pulses and the fan speed. In fact, if I go too high on the resistance, I can make the fan stop. Interestingly enough, the neon is brightest with the slowest pulses just a bit before going too high with the resistance... which shuts off everything. Even from a conventional electronics standpoint, that makes sense to me. The slower pulses give the spikes a chance to go into the charging batteries and do their magic... faster pulses can't get in, the electrons/spikes "stack up" (for lack of a better term) and can't contribute to the (cold) charging process. (At least that's MNSHO... ) I've unscientifically confirmed this in the last few days by putting one of my setups into a "fastest fan/pulse speed" state instead of a "slowest fan/pulse speed" state. What I saw was that even though the charge load batteries were getting some charge, the neon still lit up! (Purely hypothetical on my part, but I believe that) there must have been a backup in electrons from the pulses being too fast and even though there is a large diode (value as recommended) to prevent it, there must have been feedback spikes across the transistor. Which leads me to believe that the reverse spike reflection was large enough in voltage potential swing to break down the reverse voltage of the diode in order for the neon to light... now that's some serious voltage potential from a little 12V driven fan setup. As far as getting OU charging... I'm still messing with this. Sometimes I feel like I'm getting that and other times I definitely know I'm not. I believe that it hinges on a number of factors. 1) the "tuning" of the setup, 2) the conditioning of the batteries, 3) and something that I haven't seen mentioned, the "conditioning" of the setup... don't ask me how to "condition the setup". For me, it just seems to be happening over time.

Sorry for the long-windedness... just wanted to jump in and give my observations/progress as promised when I started this project.

ITF

[gotoluc]

gotoluc seems to be saying that when he cranks up the resistance, the fan speed increases.
ITF

@ITF,
thanks for taking the time to post your test results. One thing you mentioned above that is not correct!... like you I have observe exactly as you have observed, so please let me know where I said the above so I can edit it out.

You are correct about the DC Resistance of some fan motor coils being lower than 40 Ohms. I have a 120mm that is only 4.6 Ohms. However it is not giving me good results, so I did not mention it. I would consider re-coilling it but first I would like to know if anyone knows the ideal DC Resistance range. I must say that I am disappointed with the lack of participation or comments in this tread.

To all, I am bolding DC Resistance because some are using the term Impedance and from what I know and understand that is not the correct term to use if you are using your Ohm meter to measure your coils resistance. However I am very open to learning , so if anyone knows better please explain to let me know.

To all, again please share your findings if you have results in order to help everyone with better results.

Luc

[gotoluc]

New videos being uploaded as we speak. I will post the direct link as soon as it is ready for viewing. This one is dedicated to John Bedini, Rick Friedrich, and Dr.Peter Lindemann. Special Thanx goes out to theremart for his help. Much more detail and new information.

Hi Imhotep,

thanks for all you have done to date I did not see the link wet to the video you are referring too. Is it ready for viewing?

Luc

[**~Imhotep~**]

we are currently in talks with some people about refinement on final release and will be released as soon as possible
sorry for the delays working on other projects simultaneously
,trying to get all complete soon.

[InTheField]

@ITF,
thanks for taking the time to post your test results. One thing you mentioned above that is not correct!... like you I have observe exactly as you have observed, so please let me know where I said the above so I can edit it out.

OK... maybe it wasn't you or maybe I misread... sorry... didn't mean to put words in your post. I thought I'd read someone to say that the fan ran faster as they turned up the pot. Glad to know we're getting the same results. Again, sorry about my confusion, you'll find that happens sometimes from us who are old enough to remember slide rules.

You are correct about the DC Resistance of some fan motor coils being lower than 40 Ohms. I have a 120mm that is only 4.6 Ohms. However it is not giving me good results, so I did not mention it. I would consider re-coilling it but first I would like to know if anyone knows the ideal DC Resistance range. I must say that I am disappointed with the lack of participation or comments in this tread.

I think my 120mm fan read somewhere in the 4-6 ohm range. It's charging fine. Initially it was better than the 80mm fan, but not over this past week as previously posted. More results/participation/input is always better, but perhaps, like myself, sometimes "life" gets in the way.

To all, I am bolding DC Resistance because some are using the term Impedance and from what I know and understand that is not the correct term to use if you are using your Ohm meter to measure your coils resistance. However I am very open to learning , so if anyone knows better please explain to let me know.

Well... "kind of"... "Impedance" is a term mainly used for AC complex currents/circuits that have voltage and current, but also have phase. It is also used generically to include both resistive and reactive (caps & inductors) devices. Even though we talk about the DC voltages in this circuit, I've used the term "impedance" because of the variable pulsing and the way the circuit is setup. In AC circuits, it includes the phase which is usually a sinusoidal wave form. However, the phase term as well as the reactive component do not have to refer strictly to a sinusoidal wave. The wave could be square, saw, triangle, sinusoidal, rectified... but it indicates the fact that more than just a resistive load/effect is occurring and that there is a phase component which may or may not align with other similar signals. Strictly speaking, you're correct that DC resistance is correct when measuring the value of the coil windings. In general, impedance encompasses the resistive load too and is often used as a generic term for any LRC-like circuit. I suppose I should be more "exact" and careful when posting. I'll try harder.

[santhony]

Coil Wrapping Diagram

My biggest hangup is the coil wrappings.

Let me know if this makes any sense to everyone else, but here's how I see it.. attaching onto this messge. This was a tough one trying to draw.. But hopefully will lead to more ideas out there...

Give it a shot.. anyone???

[gotoluc]

@ITF

Thanks for making it clear. We are on the same page

I have been challenging these fan Bedini energizer by using very small 12v zinc batteries. The ideal is to see results in hours if not minutes since they don't have much energy reserve and are supposably rechargeable with Bedini energizers. I start with a new one at 12.5v as feed and an identical one as charge at 11.5v. The charge battery does go up and keeps the charge but not as fast as the feed battery goes down. I built 3 fan energizers, one was 80 ohms, the other 40 ohms and the last one 120mm was 4.6 ohms I did the same tests on each one and none of them were able to recharge faster than the feed battery would drain. The worst one was the 120mm a real energy hog. The one that did the best was the 80 ohm one, once I had the correct weight on the rotor (since I cut the blades) to get best balance so the rpm's don't go to high and loose neon range and also having the most resistance at the pot to keep the milliamps draw down but without losing any neon intensity. When it was tuned to its best it would draw only 19ma, the rpm's were slow, the neon is bright orange and it would squeak as it turns. I tested its charge rate and it would charge a 1,000uf cap to 32v in 10 seconds at 19ma. However it was not able to meet the above challenge. So that's all I have for now.

Luc

[boguslaw]

neon

Sorry,I can't find this info is such a large but very interesting topic, so I'm asking. Imhotep, do you have neone attached across C and E of 2N3055 transistor ? If so please describe how it behaves if you disconnect a charging battery or load for a few seconds.What light do you see ? Can you take a photo ? Please this is important to me.

[santhony]

Coil Schematic

Can anyone confirm the coil schematic?

I would suspect that the variations in wrappings are one of the BIG reasons people achieve different results. Since there are several variations of wraps, that I believe would work.. Also, the wrapping is the only portion of the schematics that are not listed with ABSOLUTE definition.

Can anyone get an accurate schematic of their coil wrap posted?

[**~Imhotep~**]

Sorry,I can't find this info is such a large but very interesting topic, so I'm asking. Imhotep, do you have neone attached across C and E of 2N3055 transistor ? If so please describe how it behaves if you disconnect a charging battery or load for a few seconds.What light do you see ? Can you take a photo ? Please this is important to me.

yes the neon will light if the charge battery is disconnected ,the closeups are on the video ,the neon shows the energy of the collapse of the magnetic field, capturing that energy is the prize.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Can anyone confirm the coil schematic?

I would suspect that the variations in wrappings are one of the BIG reasons people achieve different results. Since there are several variations of wraps, that I believe would work.. Also, the wrapping is the only portion of the schematics that are not listed with ABSOLUTE definition.

Can anyone get an accurate schematic of their coil wrap posted?

as long as you get the motor to run the details of the wrap are not that important. in this thread you will find details on various wraps ,the fans are all different so yours will differ from others ,if your fan coils are small you will get small results but you can get a few and parallel the outputs off the fans and raise the levels of recovery, also if you run off a powered supply 9-24 volts you can raise the output also ,experiment and learn from it and share, thats the whole idea.

[santhony]

Neon Bulb

are there any substitutes for the NEON bulb? I'm unable to find one at a local store, and hoping I can replace with something else.

Thanks

[santhony]

Thanks imhotep

thanks for all the help IMHOTEP.. I'll get one of these working yet....

[boguslaw]

neon

Ok, I have seen videos.Very nice idea. I have build Bedini monopole simplified a bit larger using child bike wheel. My neon is clear one NE-2 type without casing. I see on the video there is a neon lamp used opaque one so you cannot provide information about neone color. That's what I asked.Normal color of neon is orange but with Bedini circuit it tend to be red-purplish sometimes and that's very interesting.I'd like to know what color of neon do you see when Bedini circuit imhopte type is running without load or charging battery.