"Your Basic Coil" As per Tesla

[BroMikey]

Brodude,
I'm still using the 1/16" welding rods alone and not mixed with black sand.

Just wanted to keep the information correct here. As far as my replicating goes.

wantomake

okay I didn't get that part thought your cores were getting hot.

I have cores in my coils made from 1/16 rod. I have three machines total right now. All previous machines have been disassembled as I do not have room. All three have the same cores.

I have tried the iron rods, #12 shot, and black sand, and have test data on those cores. I know from experience that ferrite does NOT have as much magnetic attraction as the iron and SHOULD make a better core, but I have NOT run the numbers yet. It will ALSO put out less power and switch quicker, so THAT can affect your SUUL.

Just remember, nless something is replicated EXACTLY, it is not a replication. I know this drove John B nuts!!!!! People made Bedini energizers out of everything under the sun and whined when they didn’t work.

Yes my replication is way different and I except the responsibility. I
was getting confused with you and the SG data. Did you see this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFFo7F-EcX8

It just seems like 2" cores would be to large.

He calls out Lindemann's name.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI4883OfLeU




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[BroMikey]

Also if anyone is interested here are some notes from a great inventor
on making ferrite stick together. Black sand being etched just before
the epoxy. Ed Leedskalnin's notes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ttVgUlCHoI


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http://pubs.rsc.org/services/images/RSCpubs.ePlatform.Service.FreeContent.ImageService .svc/ImageService/Articleimage/2014/NR/c4nr04694c/c4nr04694c-f2_hi-res.gif



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[BroMikey]

Learn the different values of BLACK SAND before getting some.

Mainly this video shows how to recover sand on the beach.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ueu11EMddc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xA8HalLJ92c

[BroMikey]

How To Epoxy Sand and maybe some shot together

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnY1Zbi7sgM





http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19561A




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[BroMikey]

Ferrite is used in a wide variety of motors and generators today.
I think making 1 large batch to pour all cores for one machine is
a good idea so the material would be all the same. The machines
we are working on have better coils and need a bigger space to
put them.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WYq_AxdyUw







http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.886.2617&rep=rep1&type=pdf


http://www.tscinternational.com/tech11.pdf

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[BroMikey]

Nickel Oxide is cheap and Iron Oxide is cheap in most cases
a large percentage of nickel oxide mixing with iron oxide and you
may play with light sprinkles of copper and aluminum dust but
not much of that. Cores are mostly nickel Oxide and Iron Oxide.

I have been reviewing scholarly articles on composites for a number
of years. HT Epoxy composites. If you have time and wish to learn
go thru some of my recent posts. After this post I will not continue
to add much in the way of making homemade Ferrite core material.
This gives us a more advanced method of making Ferrite cores over
room temp molded epoxied dust..

The 3 listed acids in previous articles show their ability to clean the
exterior of each particle called etching then light heat and vacuum in
a cup to extract moisture after etching is done.

Any old refrigerator pump will work for this while gently warming.

Next resins are added for a number of hours then vacuum if you wish
next hardener and mixing, quick vacuum and into the mold.

High Temp Epoxy will now be exposed to light amounts of heat for
2 hours say around 275f or 300f. A pressing and heating needs to
take place. The temp's you run are based on the HT epoxy and type
you select.

This is called SINTERING.

Sintering is when you press together under heat. All of the vacuum
steps are optional as heat and pressure will expel the air bubbles
anyway. It really depends on what you are doing but these are the
simple steps to work with HT Expoxies and how to get it to stick.

OKAY?? Heat and pressure not such a big deal. Just enough etching
acid to scratch up the outside surface of each dust particle. Dry it out
good add epoxy resins and pour it into a vice or clamp to press all of
the material close together of course while roasting.

Below is an epoxy press, pressing out all the excess epoxy

https://symbiosisonlinepublishing.com/nanoscience-technology/nanoscience-technology37.php






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[med.3012]

Hello Bro !


very interesting share ! thanks so much )


regards

[BroMikey]

Hello Bro !


very interesting share ! thanks so much )


regards

Thx, the 3 types of acids used in etching these oxides are

Oxalic Acid

Surfuric Acid

Nitric Acid

Use whatever you want. Still better than nothing.

I have some old batteries and the acid in them will work. One time
I bought some nitric to put drops on silver to see if it was really silver.

I have not decided yet how much acid for how long but as long as you
keep the amounts consistent it should prove strong at any concentration
than none at all. Etching cleans the surface and heated resins can now
reach into the particulate and grab on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IZBtx0DqGM

Glad you like this MED. I started my quest in the area back
years ago when i thought I might build a 100 foot wind turbine. At that
time I began reading about composite epoxies, that was over 10 years
ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpC_tJv0ymk

The compound in the video is not for Ferrite dust but shows us the
basic idea about what etching does. Draining off etching solution
with excessive amounts of byproducts from the reaction of course
would be a common sense action just before using heat to dry up the
material. The cleaner the better. In chemistry these reactionary
produces are called "Precipitants"

I also found good fillers to produce a non shrink plastic but in this case
the object is to have the Ferrite be the filler so a porous surface must
be created. Only tiny amounts of binder. However if you know that your
particulate will end up with gaps after pressing there is always something
you might be considering to fill it in. The goal is to press the 2 or more
oxides together under heat so hard that the tiny pieces of dust all touch
one another.

No large fillers would work because they would stop the metals from
connecting to each other, such as the fibers everywhere on the market.
Conductive par-magnetic.

I think copper and aluminum are good choices.

[BroMikey]

ETCHING

Here is too much and shows us that we need very little.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kX32vRHdDc

[BroMikey]

Turion Posts

desa,
Thaine Heinz used high impedance coils to negate Lenz. Angus Wangus used two coils on a U shaped core of iron with the magnet passing between the two pieces of steel, as Leedskalnin did much earlier. Wendell Ray Walker used the freely rotating magnet that passes by the coil. Those are three VERY DIFFERENT approaches to dealing with Lenz.

I believe there is a fourth way. What I THINK we have figured out is that there is a specific frequency that each coil has. I THINK it is based on the mass of the core, the core material, the size and number of strands of wire and their length, and the RPM of the rotor with respect to its size, the number of magnets and their size and strength. Do you see how many variables there are and how changing just ONE could impact performance?I f you turn YOUR specific rotor at the right speed for YOUR coil, it will speed up under load at a SPECIFIC rpm or above. You have to find the frequency for your coil. THAT is what I would experiment with because as you try to scale this thing up to a BIG machine, that is the kind of thing you will need to understand.

Unless you have the EXACT same rotor as I do with the same strength, size and number of magnets spaced the same distance apart. And unless you have the same size core in your coil, made from the same material with the same number of the same sized wires the same length, your machine will NOT speed up under load at the same RPM as mine, and you may spend MONTHS trying to get it to speed up under load if at all. That is another reason I haven't given specifics on my generator. Unless a replication is built EXACTLY the same as mine, it won't work, and then people will say mine doesn't work. Been there, done that. People build replications out of whatever crap they happen to have lying around and then complain when it doesn't work the same as the original.

I happen to know that the coil I have works with a specific rotor at 2800 RPM. Anything below that, when it is loaded, it will slow my motor down. One of the problems I had early on is that the magnets are so powerful they would flex the rotor and it would hit the coils. I had to engineer around that. It would also suck the magnets right out of the rotor even though we kept having new rotors machined with smaller and smaller holes to have the magnets pressed into with a hydraulic press. I have several sets of really nice rotors that the magnets wouldn't stay in. To replicate that generator would cost about $1,500.00, as just the wire alone is $475 and the magnets are over $300. Because I am using such big strong magnets, the coil holders and rotors are special and had to be machined. I have been looking at ways of getting the price down before I disclosed anything, and have found a way to knock several hundred off what it cost me to build it, but that design hasn't been tested. I am working on that NOW. So I have no intention of sharing it until I see whether it works or not. This will be my fifth build of this particular generator, so I have a lot of time and money invested in this project. It is too big to run with the razor scooter motor. Or let's put it this way....you can't START it with a razor scooter motor, but once up to speed, you CAN run it with the larger modified motor.

What Matt is doing with his prototype is a smaller version of my generator, based on ALL THE SAME principles, since he is the one who came up with the idea in the first place. It will use smaller, MUCH LESS expensive coils. I think I got all my coils wound for the prototype for about $30 worth of wire. It won't put out anywhere near as much power, but it WILL prove to EVERYBODY that this will work, and you can get way more out than you put in. THEN you can scale it up.

My advice to you, if you want to experiment with a generator while you wait for Matt to share this little generator prototype is to think about what you will do once you have a working model and understand everything you need to know to scale the thing up and make a big machine. Take what you have in the way of a rotor with magnets on it and figure out what coil will speed up under load with YOUR rotor. Use what you have in the way of wire and EXPERIMENT. Don't spend money because you will need it to build the prototype.

I will share this much about my big generator. I have a standard bobbin with a 3/4 core filled with welding rods. It is wound with 3 strands of #23. Now that coil was DESIGNED (by Matt) to put out 120-130 volts at 2800 RPM using MY SPECIFIC rotor. At that RPM with MY SPECIFIC rotor, it will speed up under load. Even if you had the right sized rotor with the correct number of magnets and the right spacing between them, you probably would have the same problem of the rotor hitting the coil and sucking the magnets out of the rotor unless you have engineered around those two fundamental problems. And I can tell you right now, when a magnet comes out of the rotor and hits that iron core of the coil at 2800 RPM, it is like a bomb going off and you are likely to lose an eye or sustain other serious damage. When you get to this level, it becomes very dangerous to experiment with.


The rotor I am using on my big gen is split magnet rotor with magnets at both ends of the coil for max saturation. I have two sets of coils so it is set up:

S(magnet)N Coil S(magnet)N Coil S(Magnet)N with room on the shaft to add more stacks of coils and rotors. I could put 20 coils on this particular setup. Of course I would have to have a bigger motor to turn it, but there is no reason not to use some of the coils as motor coils at least SOME of the time if it is done correctly and eliminate the need for a motor.

I will be interested to see what you mean by magnetic suspension.



Oh, and I almost forgot. 100% of the time two of the motors are acting as generators. Now add a flywheel to smooth out the pulses.

If you don't want to screw around with three off the shelf motors, build yourself a few rotors and some coils, and do it all with one unit. I have a 12 coil setup which allows 3 coils to run as motor coils while 9 coils generate, but it ALSO has a 12 volt DC motor that can run it when it gets up to speed. And that motor is run off the potential difference between a high voltage source and a low one. We are moving power around without using it up to get it to do work, with only losses to friction/heat and switching. I am NOT going to show you video of that setup running because YOU are not going to build that setup anyway. It is way too expensive and all machine work. You MIGHT, however, build what I have described here with some inexpensive motors, or maybe build yourself a rotor and wind your own coils. You can get results with only a few coils. I had a little two coil unit, but I have cannibalized it to use the rotors to build my coil testing device.


One of the very first tests I ran was with only TWO coils in place. I wanted to show that a single coil was putting out about 130 volts at .5 amps UNDER LOAD, and I HAD 2 of those coils on the generator. I compared the output of one coil under load to the same load running off the wall plug. For those of you with a calculator, that's at LEAST 130 watts output from the two coils on the generator, and it was running on 12 volts at .4 amps after it got up to speed. So running it produced 2.7 times the input power. COP>2.7, and that was with some pretty small loads. As I said, it speeds up under load, which means BETTER performance, less amp draw and MORE OUTPUT. It does pull some amps on startup to break magnetic lock, but it does way better than that now with 12 coils, and magnetic lock is not an issue above 1200 rpm. I think on the video I measured the RPMS while it was running the load and with the other coil shorted out, and then unshorted the coil and you could see the immediate change on the tach as it slowed down.

So it WILL speed up under RESISTIVE loads. If you don't believe it does, you are just mistaken, and if you choose to argue the point, you are an idiot. Now WHY it speeds up under load , I won't argue. But if you say it doesn't you are just WRONG.


http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/19774-basic-free-energy-device-9.html?highlight=basic+free+energy


I have seen an output of 1.7 amps per coil at 130 volts per coil x 12 coils or 2,652 watts. My generator does this right now with iron core coils. And the generator speeds up under load. That is my output. I also know what I am inputting into the system and how much of that I am able to recover. Now speeding up under load may not be of BENEFIT with a mo/gen combination, and may in fact be harmful, but when you have two separate and distinct devices, and you can get more generated energy (more rpm means higher output) then I can work with that, as long as it does not INCREASE the front end "used by the system" cost. There is all kind of debate about How or Why a generator will speed up under load, but in the final analysis, when I have a coil of a specific size with a specific core, and by changing the wiring configuration on that coil I can get my generator to produce MORE rpm when loaded rather than bogging down the motor that is turning it, THAT is of benefit to me as long as the watts produced by that coil do not decrease. If someone has a coil that produces more power from the system for less overall cost, I would be interested in that for sure. I have had discussions with at least ONE individual on how to build such a coil and am looking into how to do it without it making me insane.

There's a bunch of stuff I am not yet in a position to share, but there is at least one thing I will throw out there even though I started a WHOLE THREAD on "Your Basic Coil" just to talk about this stuff and couldn't wade through the idiots to make the kind of progress I wanted. As usual, I just got together with a few folks I trust and we did the testing ourselves.

We tested welding rod, coat hanger, #12 shot, ferrite and Metglass as a generator coil core on a generator running under 4,000 RPM. While different wire configurations, higher rpm or other variables might change the results, for our purposes the ferrite was the clear winner. At higher RPM's it might not be, and I doubt we will spend the time to determine that since we are running at the lower frequencies. There are lots of kinds of ferrite and some may be better than others. We found one we like. You find yours. We wound a lot of coils to be able to put out that information, and it would have been much easier if ten different people had wound the same sized coil and tested it on the same sized rotor with the same magnets on it. But I have given up expecting that there will EVER be that level of cooperation and teamwork on this forum. The stuff we know is because we are building and testing stuff every single day. Some of it we will share.

I redid my big generator. This is the 5th time I have rebuilt it and it costs a couple hundred dollars each time to modify the parts and have them machined to new specs or replaced. Right now it is running on a razor scooter motor at 1800 RPM. It is running on 12 volts at 6 amps or 72 watts. It is outputting 170 volts DC after the bridge at 1.5 amps per coil, and there are 12 coils. YOU do the math. With the windings I have on the coils it requires 24 volts to get it up to 2800 RPM, at which point it speeds up under load. I have not done any output testing at the higher RPM because I haven't had TIME. Trying to figure out the best way to convert high voltage DC to lower voltage higher amps has been my priority.

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[wantomake]

Seems extreme

What you are posting seems very hard with the acid and such. Is all that necessary? Can the core not be just magnetite powder mixed with expoxy or rosin or something to harden it?

Just asking,
wantomake

[BroMikey]

What you are posting seems very hard with the acid and such. Is all that necessary? Can the core not be just magnetite powder mixed with expoxy or rosin or something to harden it?

Just asking,
wantomake

Think conductivity, think concrete, jello with chopped fruit in a bowl.
The air space or epoxy plastic space is a no no. You must heat and
press your magnetite together and Nickel oxide as well.

Did you ever look into a bowl of jello and see all of the spaces in between
mixed fruit? That is how random a suspension of a lump of resins with
iron dust is going to be. You must PRESS your particulate together and
to get the resins to stick you need to clean your dust particle surfaces.

We are talking low watered down concentrations for an old battery, swish
or stir it around till it smokes a little and gives of some black tea water.
Dump it off and dry it out. Ready to add resins, no heat yet, no hardener
either just resins. Let set 4 hours then gentle heat, I vacuum mine with
an old frig pump to extract bubbles in some pours.

You are reviewing the procedure for near state of the art mixing and
preparation instructions. Think concrete. Picture a room at your home
20' X 20' X 10'. The room is empty. Now add beach balls til the room
is filled up. Each ball touches the other one. That is what you want.

Now if you want your concrete stronger you look at the gaps in between
the beach balls and think of something to put in there. Whether plastic
composite of lump of saggy dirt, if you want your part to be strong, not
crumbling apart you want to fill in the gaps.

In our case we probably don't want to go to the extreme. What we want
is dust connected to each other with very little resin binder so you
must heat the resins with the hardener already in it. Heating cause
the needed viscosity change of makes the resin real running like water.

That way when you press the batch (Think semi-dry mud packs) together
the resins run out and dust connects to dust.

From dust thou art and to dust thou shalt return. Be back.


The Lord Bless

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Sign the original rebel, ex-Detroit party dog head banger now yielding
to the King.

[BroMikey]

Possible connection diagram for Tesla coils to assist generator
armature reaction instead of the low efficiency 1890's winding
patterns.

Here's some basic info for you all. I have said this MANY times. EVERY COIL will speed up under load at the correct frequency. If it doesn't speed up under load, the RPM isn't high enough, or one of the other variables I have talked about is out of whack.

If I am not mistaken, Wantomake has a coil on his machine that has 2400 feet of #23 wire on it. He is using the same size rotor as I am with the same size magnets, the same number of magnets on the rotor and spaced the same distance apart.

He was able to achieve SUUL (speed up under load) at about 2,000 rpm according to my memory (which isn't that great, but he can verify.)

So our setup is the same EXCEPT for our coils. My coil, which is the same bobbin as his, with the same core and the same 2400 feet of #23 wire on it requires 2,800 rpm to achieve SUUL. Why does my coil require 800 rpm MORE? Is he better looking than me? Is he cheating?

My coil has 3 strands each 800 feet long. His coil has 12 strands each 200 feet long with 3 groups of four wires. The four wires within the group are connected in series. Wires in parallel connected in series (as Tesla states) give you more capacitance, and lower the frequency (or rpm) needed to achieve SUUL.

From the outside both coils appear to have 3 wires in parallel coming off them, but the reality is much different, as are the results.

Could his coil achieve SUUL at an even LOWER rpm? Certainly. Wire two groups of six strands in series, or better yet, wire all 12 strands in series.

But remember, the LONGER the wire, the more voltage. The more wires in parallel, the more AMPS. It is all about coil design and what you are trying to achieve.

I told Wantomake to use 12 strands because 12 is divisible by 1,2,3,4 and12. That gives you FIVE possible combinations of wires in series and parallel to experiment with.

24 strands gives you one more option since it is also divisible by 8. (5 total options)
30 is divisible by 5, 10, and 15, but not by 8 or 12 (7 total options)

More than that, the number of strands is almost unworkable unless you have a pro coil winding machine. But you get the idea. You WANT options. I thought 12 strands was a good number for people to experiment with, and if you have to put all the strands in series to get SUUL, at least you can DO it.

If you start with 12 strands in series on a bobbin with 2400 feet of #23, and it does not speed up under load, you have a problem. Your motor is just too SLOW. Once you have seen SUUL, you can start reducing the length of the strands by running more strands in parallel.

[BroMikey]

Preliminary run down of conventional laws VS new reactions from
parallel wound coils connected in series. These copies are instructables
to download and print for study. The company who freely gave out this
comprehensive board talk did not charge for it. Thane is a teacher of
electronics and this is his perspective on the subject of Tesla style
coils as electromagnets patented at the turn of the 19th century 100
plus years ago.

Many other inventors have now caught on this this idea in the past
10 years and each of them have a different viewpoint than Thane Heins
does. We welcome any comparable board talks to add so that young
men and women who want to build in the future have something to work
with.

Lenz law and conservation of energy laws are the basics that come
with any typical 8th grade science class. This talk is only for beginners
who would like to understand the concepts involved.

I will probably do a board talk repeat of this material in the future
because I teach my young son science in his home school classroom.

I have reviewed the information time and time again and am not
sure if I could do as good of a job so please if you are a teacher
and understand these basic principles feel free to add in your board
talk to further this investigation.


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/ThaneH/boardtalk2.jpg

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/ThaneH/boardtalk3.jpg

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/ThaneH/boardtalk4.jpg

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/ThaneH/boardtalk5.jpg

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/ThaneH/boardtalk6.jpg

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/ThaneH/boardtalk7.jpg











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[BroMikey]

Here is my first of one such coil pulled from the thread
"SPLITTING THE POSITIVE" this one has 24 strands wound
in parallel with each strand at 170 feet long. Then these
winding are connected in many different patterns to do
experiments.

She is a whopper weighting in at 60oz with iron transformer
core laminates out of a microwave oven.

Happy Trails, it sure is lonely at the top, you could here a pin drop.

The information here is free and is not hidden so you are not confused

Below is a cartoon of how a legal patent is set up to display facts.

You can rest assured of success thanks to key players such as Turion
and company and many others who offered data to further these
investigations.




http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/24strandcoil1.jpg



100 years of picking thru patents someone finally got it.




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