Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

Okay New Stats are in BRB

Second Test using Modified Motor Results here.

Still entering data





At 1;45am the second test started the voltage 12.77v 3 minutes
later the run load voltage stabilized at 12.55v picking up approx where we
left off in the controlled test. The ending run load volts were 12.50v

If you all recall the drive booster was set at 14.5v during the inverter
controlled watt burning test. When connected to the motor the booster
voltage reading started at 16.3v to 16.6v right off the bat and by the
end of the one hr 17.2v so booster voltage readings were floating or
fluctuating consistently.

The drive energy fell right on the same amp draw of 1600ma over the
entire 1 hour run. The differential reading made it's way from 13.74v to
13.65v always varying in the beginning and by the end the figures had
increased slightly to 13.81v moving around down to 13.76v and back
again.

In both cases, differential voltage and drive booster voltage danced
wildly on the meter never giving a consistent reading possibly due to
the motors ability to introduce AC into the DC, I don't know, but the
meter knows something I don't.

The second booster that runs power back to the run packs ran at
the same amp draw as in the control test at 3.6amps.

As I have pointed out the battery was measured 1 hr later and rested
at 12.70v and appeared to still be in the process of recharging which
is not the case when the inverter is run and then a rest. I checked the
the batteries ability to recharge itself when the inverter test was
done the batteries were regaining to equilibrium. I checked the battery
every 15 minutes and it was done rising after 25 minutes.

So from 12.77v to 12.70v is a 7 point drop and the loaded run voltage
went from 12.55v down to 12.50v is a 5 point drop and so as we did
last time we used the lesser of the 2 figures or the run loaded voltage.

This is a .05v point drop rather than double the inverter amount.

So for exactly the same energy input, the mod mtr ran and sent back
some of it's energy back to the run pack as well as putting energy in the
charge pack plus offering an abundant amount of mechanical.

[BroMikey]

You would have to be sitting in my chair for weeks to make one alteration
to see how huge the change is. Battery leads equal length. The
measurable differential is swinging more wildly than ever before. The
meter batteries are fine, I have moved the meter away from everything
still the wild crazy swings.

Before the installed lead this did not go wild.

Time after time after time the mod mtr drops 4 points per hour
while the inverter set at the same power input takes twice as much.



https://youtu.be/ZSoBYtG0yCc

[BroMikey]

For those of you following my data points I went away from the
mod mtr to regular one of the same frame. As you may know the
battery curve relationship to power density is the greatest
delivery of energy in the middle range like 12.40v to 12.20v
so when I ran the inverter in this area the data point drop was
right around 8 points and hr and the Mod Mtr was 4. So I tried
a conventionally wound 24v MY1016 frame like the scooters
use today.

I set the amp draw the same as the other tests at 1.5amps
and ran it from 2:00am to 4:00am and got a 24 point drop or
or a 12 point drop per hour. The Mod Mtr only drops 4 points.

The differential did not fluctuate at all whatsoever as does the
mod mtr. The diff was rock solid never moving any data points
while the mod mtr swings wildly.

There is such a big difference. Of course the charge battery
voltages were way higher to get the amp draw within range so
there is just no way to compare the two motors at all with the
set up.

I see little hope running a conventionally wound motor between
the positives in this arrangement. However I heard that a regular
motor could be pulsed using an adjustable PWM that could change
the duty cycle, frequency and so on.

These normal motors eat lots of power.

[BroMikey]

I see Turion Man is out tonight beatin the trolls.

At his request i did away with the clip leads, all 6 of them and now
no more bouncing needles when clips are misaligned. there are none.

I have gained something as I am sitting on a meter like a mother hen
waiting for each data point to hatch out. Just to generalize the top
portion of the battery voltage at 12.90v is a bit fluffy and will go down
about 5 or 6 data points using the mod mtr but the inverter eats 12-13
points in this upper voltage of the battery. This is not the highest density
part of a battery curve and is no surprise to the accomplished.

After taking off 6 clips as shown and one bad wire (Green wire copper was
black inside) from wire I grabbed. All wires are now high amp wire with
silver tin and Teflon. That 1 wire was really bad, anyway
my data point drop has decreased to 3.5 points per hour even in this
low density region of the battery.

There is a difference that i would have never known unless i ran with
clips for a few weeks and cut them all off connecting everything with a
bolt. Or lug which ever you prefer.

The boosters vibrate and pulsate at HF and it is clear clipy's will shake
rattle and bounce. I looked up and the amp meter was bouncing gently
up and down, seemed like all connections were good. Nope the black
lead had to be consistently adjusted to get the shaky nettle to settle
out. Clip leads are a sin against your system. Better get a change of heart.

Look at all the clipy's right? When your clipy jumps and vibrates your
spikes go out the window instead of back to the battery. Clear?



PS stats real quick

after 4 hrs from 1 am to 5 am the point drop is 12.61 run load ending
12.40 run load. So it is more consistent. resting voltage starting at
12.90v and later the ending. This mod mtr took 5 points off the
battery every hr. ending volts 12.60v which is considered fully
charged


At the 2 hr mark the drive booster ran up from 16v to 17v a point
at a time raising the amp draw to 1.65 so was turned back down to 16v where it stayed pulling the 1.5amps.

[BroMikey]

Modified Motor runs 20 watts then 2 generator coils relieve the this
20 watts slightly each time a properly wound gen coil is engaged.

To keep the system charging battery #3 the run batteries are connected
to 2 generator coils that keeps the booster off. The batteries are no
longer needed at this point, the charge battery continues to rise.

More and more lenz free coils populate the rotor that deliver excess far
beyond the expectation of our present day science could every bring
itself to see.

30v at 1.5 amps keeps the booster off and eliminates it's losses. The rotor
with speed up slightly with each added coil. I am seeing a minimum of
20-30 watts per coil if not more when speed up is almost zero.

[BroMikey]

Turion-Man strikes again

I will post it, all over the place. But especial in the 3BGS thread of
which you should be the proud owner. As you well know I first saw
Thane Heins talking about Tesla Coils that offer current and voltage
while at the same time helping the Modified Motor out a small amount.

Not that it needed much help. This modifed energizer scooter motor
Matt made is rockin my socks off. Like DESA said it is a motor that just
keeps on giving.

Then you guys all saw me using a different motor last year to test
Turion style /Tesla coils. The coil when engaged would take a 2200 ma at 80v
input and lower it to 1700ma at 80v. The coil would have given me more
than 20-30 watts if I could change the high voltage of 800v down
without so many losses.

If everyone remembers I used what I had at the time pulling 24 pump
motor spools off of washing machine parts and rewound them all onto
one spool at 170 feet each 24 strands.

Some speeds I only needed 6-8 strands to reach the null point or the rpm
that gave the most power out of the coil without effecting or slowing
the rotor driven by the motor.

I want to use this little motor without having to go up to the big motor
frame that I saw on ebay for $60. I have this one so I want to make it
work so others who have this one will use their's and follow.

As I said the rotor I have took 80v at 3000ma to get it up to speed or
240watts then dropped back to sometimes to 1700 ma or 140watts but
my tiny Modified motor is only set up for 30v max at 3 amps max. It might
be a strain on it so I will use a tiny rotor. My son has an even smaller
one we want to get working so he can show it off.

I am gaining in experience now little by little thanks to getting my foot
in the door of ground breaking technology because of guys like you and
others who talk tough but deep down are sweet peeps.

Just to even get a clue on how this all might be possible keeps me
encouraged and thankful. Before now I had a rotten feeling I would
never be able to make enough excess energy that would be practical
for poor boys like me.

My time is short (still tied to the whipping pole) so let me say all good
things and hope that everyone will see this and understand. My vision
is to see several 14 foot rotors powering a city.

I am a dreamer, thanks to all, I am forever in your debt.

[BroMikey]

Hello Everyone

Today I would like to show each of you my parts list. These are the parts
that my son and I are using. These parts can only be easy to find if
you use the key words listed when searching on EBAY. I looked last
year and could not find anything I wanted.

This year I accidentally found what we need. If you have gone to the
trouble of taking one of your old scooter motors apart to modify it as
suggested, in the 3BGS (3 battery generating System) thread, stick with
me because you can use this small motor and not to big of battery
pack if you follow the proper sizing for the Generator Head.

We have been given much by David Bowling in terms of proportions.
Many of you have a modified scooter motor that you would like to use
as a self runner. To do that we can work in reverse.

Dave went to a larger motor that he can run at 200watts all day long.
For us we will be glad to get 50watts all day long. I can turn mine up
from 15v to 20v plus and run at 2.2amps all day long so you can see
as compared to Dave's big machine we are at 70% to 75% size reduction.

Since Dave has shown his 24" Genhead plans for the bigger stuff we can
approximate that we need an 11" box with a 6" rotor. Have fun and stay
tuned. Jordy and I will be back with our smaller self runners that use the
modified scooter motor that many of you already have.

This parts list does not rack up into the thousands of dollars which most
of us can not afford including Jordy and I. The goal is to complete the
build based on the original Modified Motor so a youth may be able to
achieve the self looped systems.

[BroMikey]

Here is my conceptional view for motor sizing to generator head.
This is based on my testing last year. I don't need Turion to tell me
anything, anymore, he has put us on track many times.

Based on my tests.
My tests used the small modified motor with a 10" rotor which was to
large. The amp draw went up well over 2.5 amps and could not achieve
the needed rmp's for coils that I wound to get much from.

Here is me using a dishwasher motor at 200watts 3000rpm's getting
free energy from 1 coil.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E7XRgbMIGc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8kY6IXvjok&t=2s

Tesla coil video proves university math all wrong, as the rotor is
assisted by an amount easily calculated or
2300ma drops to 1900ma at 88 volts or a 400ma reduction at 88v=

.400 X 88 = 35watt reduction in prime mover power while lighting a
corn cob bulb at 66v 40ma so all you brains out there tell me what is
going on. A 35 watt savings only if I draw 2.6watts off of my Tesla
coil.


We need RPM's class. 3000RPM's minimum or 3500 RPM's which is well
within our grasp. For those of you who did not see Matt's video
demonstrating his Modified Motor, he showed that the small motor
will run right on up to 5000rpm's on only 24v. Now in his demo he did not
have anything connected to it so we need to target 3000rpm's or just
above.

Once we have the spindle hub and rotor mounted to bearings we can
wind coils maybe 12 strand 200 feet 25 awg. The goal is to place 2 coils
around a 6" rotor using 1/2" magnets to feed the run batteries enough
energy so they are no longer needed. This gives us a COP of a little over 1.

Naturally the 6" rotor will be able to handle as many coils as we can
physically place around it deriving even more excess energy as demonstrated
by Thane Heins in video form. Also yours truly. That is I have also
shown in video that coils can be long enough that are connected in series
so that all the energy coming from these coils is extracted free of charge.

At this point the goal will be to build for placing large numbers of coils
all around so COP will rise to infinite. Or shall we say self sustaining with
huge amounts of excess that proves everything you know about electricity
is wrong.

I am unwilling to abandon my smaller MY1016 motor. First things first, I
am in no hurry and as I have stated before, if I can not pass this project
down to my son so he can do the hands on then I will have failed.

The rest of you young guys are welcome to tag along. Glad to have you.

If you are trying to get 2000watts excess energy better follow Turion
in the 3BGS thread. Turion is a genius and worked his butt
end off for the last 10 years so we could have a free lunch. Let's build.

[Aaron]

Three Battery system results

Modified Motor runs 20 watts then 2 generator coils relieve the this
20 watts slightly each time a properly wound gen coil is engaged.

To keep the system charging battery #3 the run batteries are connected
to 2 generator coils that keeps the booster off. The batteries are no
longer needed at this point, the charge battery continues to rise.

More and more lenz free coils populate the rotor that deliver excess far
beyond the expectation of our present day science could every bring
itself to see.

30v at 1.5 amps keeps the booster off and eliminates it's losses. The rotor
with speed up slightly with each added coil. I am seeing a minimum of
20-30 watts per coil if not more when speed up is almost zero.

Bromikey,

Congratulations if these are the results you're getting.

When you say "with each added coil" on the generator - your diagram shows 2 coils in series. So if you added another coil, would you put a third coil in series with those two or would you add some in parallel? Just for clarification. I would imagine in series if you're more interested in the voltage or perhaps 3 sets of 2 in series paralleled up to boost voltage and current.

Will you be posting some pictures and videos of your experiment as well as sharing your results in the Three Battery thread as Turion mentioned?

[Aaron]

cache glitch

Ok Firefox, going down the drain in the last few months!

Since Turion's post, this wasn't updating for me and I just saw your new posts, will check them out. Kept feeding me a cached view of the thread for some reason.

[BroMikey]

Bromikey,

Congratulations if these are the results you're getting.

When you say "with each added coil" on the generator - your diagram shows 2 coils in series. So if you added another coil, would you put a third coil in series with those two or would you add some in parallel? Just for clarification. I would imagine in series if you're more interested in the voltage or perhaps 3 sets of 2 in series paralleled up to boost voltage and current.

Will you be posting some pictures and videos of your experiment as well as sharing your results in the Three Battery thread as Turion mentioned?

Hey Aaron

thanks for the pat.

Not a problem on this end, as far as I am concerned you are like Turion
to me, just had to get that clear. You are the best of the best and smartest
young man I have met in a long long time. You know what I have said
about you.

Anyway it will be my pleasure to answer any questions you or others may
have about what I know first hand about these systems. The people are
going to catch up.

Now listen I am unsure about the way your coil will be wound so until we
go to that part of the build you won't know either. But let me put it
another way so you are on board where I live.

When you get enough strands in series the rotor will speed up amost
crazy uncontrollably it will seem like as you saw in the video, however at
this place above the null which in my case was 15 to 18 strands, you get
less generated power out of your coil. So in my case, at my rotor size
and speed using my 4200 foot series 24 strand fine wire coil producing
1000volts....................... see what I mean? It is a run on sentence.

Let me say this, when I was at 8-10 strands at certain speeds with more
than one air gap, here we go again, on and on. It depends. But let me say
this about the null, I got way more generated power out of my coils
when the rotor did not speed up or slow down.

For drama I am showing the effect that makes it perfectly clear that
each time I add a coil the rotor speeds up and lessens the input power
to the prime mover. It was stated that Matt used a small rotor maybe
similar to what I am using to go over the top so I am following the music.

If Matt did it, maybe I can. This is the way I got started by thinking I
might be able to get the extra. Then I read the 3bgs thread and you are
hearing what has already been done. So let's make that clear first, I am
not the author.

I could not wait so I hooked up a 3400rpm dishwasher motor to my rotor
so I could get some experience and you are seeing what I found. I was
lost about how to follow Thane Heins in winding a coil that would speed
up under a load so I wandered. Then Turion told me some of the tests
he had done and I freaked. 24 strands? I never would have thought
that this was needed but I did what I was told.

My strands broke they were reused wire and so thin but the plan was
to use 8 strands in series at the right rpm's and I could have 3 sets of
8. Well I kept having breakage and have abandoned this fine wire coil
even tho I learned a bunch. It is 29awg producing high voltage way
above what I need.

This is what I had and was unwilling to wait so I rigged up a winder for
24 strands as shown on my youtube. It worked, that is all I needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2Mj-JBwVbw


When me and Jordy get everything ordered that we still do not have
and get it running I will of course be posting everything.

I don't care what they say about you Aaron, you are the best of the best.
People should buy all your books and get a reality check for extra energy
systems, it was your site that makes this all possible. You will be rewarded
richly. You are John Bedini to me, or someone who has properly
and is keeping this dream alive.

[BroMikey]

Here is an article for fun reading about electrical steel.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/electrical-steel

Got more hardware in the mail today.

[BroMikey]

Got my 10mm pillow blocks (4) today. Waiting for hub, SOON!!

Thanks Matt and Dave on the updates I needed that reminder.

One thing I could do is break out my MAD MACK wheel and explore
possible cancellation methods. My counter has been installed and I
will be winding soon doing video of course.

[BroMikey]

Did some core work this week and got my 3rd batch of hubs in the
mail today. like $2 a piece. I looked last years many hours on ebay for
hubs and found nothing cheap, something like $100 each crazy. Then
I typed in the word FLANGE when I was looking for 10mm bearings and
bang that is where the hubs were all hiding. It's that crazy chinese
non English confusion.

Anyway Chinese people are great people, I just don't speak the language.

Going away May 1st and will be home working again mid month.

Got my rotor pilot holes done (HSS DRILLS ONLY) got my pipe nuts
that are 1/4" thread and the 1/4" pipe also. Pulled out my winder,
the weather is so nice, counter installed ready for use.

Dad is 84yrs and is going downhill so gonna visit hoping to perk him up.
He is 1000 miles from here. I would love to do some video but am running
out of time today.

The project is a done did deal. I am making parts to assemble for Son
Jordan 14yrs. I will make it like a snap together model for him so he can
become familiar with these systems at a young tender age. Thanks to
Dave and Matt who have worked tirelessly for years and passed the idea
along. Also a special thanks to Thane Heins who shows his coils speeding
up a rotor when loaded instead of dragging the rotor down when drawing
power just like the TESLA patent reports.

Got to try that commutator alteration soon using 4 teeth not 3 leaving
no gaps when using the Matt Mod Motor as a LENZ FREE GENNY. Sweet.

Me and Jordan are going to have a blast with all of these experiments.
Jordan has already witnessed the regenerative effect my Turion based coils
produced when drawing power out of them which other coils slow the
rotor down.

As I had stated somewhere (so many threads I forgot) that my specific
coil winding had 170 feet of wire 24 times or 24 strands as it is called.
As I began running the rotor using a Modified scooter motor I connected
one single strand to a bridge or a single diode or just a resistor the rotor
speed dropped right away. Same with a series connection all the way up
to about 6 series connect 170 foot strands.

It is at this place we call a NULL. The Null point (and I am repeating Dave)
that the coil does not slow down the rotor and gives or puts out the most
power in the generation process. As i continue connecting more strands
the rotor will go faster. And Faster drawing far less power to drive at
the PMM modified scooter motor. However the coil energy output is low.

Never give up and never give in, someone has already done what you
want to do so once you show interest someone will rescue the drowning.

[BroMikey]

Hi all

A special thanks to the men who lead the way on this project.

15mm long n48 neo's 10mm dia . Holders are drilled out 1/4' iron
pipe with pipe nuts made of brass.

My winder looks mighty good too.



























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