Splitting The Positive

[wantomake]

Looks good

Bromikey and Turion,
Your test answer questions about the coil and can it store energy. My lack of knowledge and resources have stopped any large replication at all. I don't want to clutter this thread with nothing to add.

I do learn from you guys and want to attempt a large replication in the future. We plan a trip to LA California in early October, one year would be nice to visit Dave if you allowed such. That's the reason no money. Traveling and life.

wantomake

[BroMikey]

Bromikey and Turion,

I do learn from you guys and want to attempt a large replication in the future.

@ wantomake

Glad to be of service and bring your camera when you go to Dave's place
so we can really get a good look. I hope you guys hit it off well.
Happy researching.

@ Dave
Yes the "C" cores are able to pass flux from the north to the south as
they sit over their alternate poles. This allows for an alternate route for
cogging flux to dissipate into the moving rotor.

If I put a single post of steel with coil on it (which I did do) it cogs like
no tomorrow. The single post was the same size as my double pole "C"
shape and at .25 gap it pulled down my rotor speed and drove the amps
up with no connection made just open circuit.

From this I concluded that this is why Thane ditched that design
early on in his demo's. If you noticed he began with these gigantic
single coil cores with rotor plates on each side to reroute flux?

Maybe you didn't see. The patent talks about how each end of the single
coil core could be better used. Then Thane has all of these huge laminates
running around the back of his monster rig to redirect the flux? Did
you his all his pictures and study them?

Thane does not show many but what he shows got me to understand
many things. Now I am not say "C" cores are a free lunch either just a
different way of fish frying.

Hope you have a wonderful time with the youth.

[BroMikey]

Bro Miley,
I should have thought of this before, but those C cores you are using MAY be a whole different animal than putting coils on both sides of the rotor and connecting them in parallel as I am doing. A far different setup.

When you get by a big PC look at the early version monstrosity largely
due to the laminate network in the rear section. Thane spent a considerable
number of years talking about redirecting flux just as all researchers must
do and some of his video's showed even the drive link replaced with steel
inside of brass on the single pole cores. When he abandoned them in favor
of the "C" core not only was there a size reduction but also became more
practical than the old albatross

I mean this thing is scary.

(left side picture) But if you look close you can see that there
are large single ended coils and cores on each side of the rotor with
the base frame connecting their flux path together. Thus a huge "C" shape.

Thane found that the back end of the coil cores had flux that needed to
be dealt with and as his experiment evolved he made a smaller "C" core
for testing. This lowers cogging losses. Now I am sure you can do it
other ways.

At first Thane put "C" cores on one side but as you pointed out that it
is hard to keep magnets in their sockets over time so now his new
machine uses a "C" the same way with "N" and "S" across the SAME
magnet to balance mechanical forces. Yet another way to keep magnets
in their holders with their own pulling power.

[BroMikey]

Acceleration Under load Test

Well folks it works.

First strand second strand third and on up at about 20vac increases
per strand. At coil 18-19-20 I notice very little activity but on coil 20
the the voltage (my only way to tell plus sound) goes up 2-3 volts and
then back down to 318vac then shorting it goes to 322vac. I lost a strand
somewhere in the leads so i have a 23 strand coil at this point but can
retrieve it if need be.

I will be back with video sometime in the future after more runs of
verification. I can see a good spark when I short the coils out.

I am thinking running LED bulbs as loads and what not.

[BroMikey]

Modified Motor Brush Failure

I think my brushes gave out because all of a sudden my rotor was
turning about 200 RPM's. I had it running and speeding up as I did tests
for hours.

It was an awesome feeling to watch the series strands adding together
seeing the voltage climb to 420vac. I got zapped a couple of times but
no big deal, very small amperage. I won't do that again.

Here is me showing off my rig. Of course someone is in the background
thinking I just like to brag. I guess no body better show video or they
are show off's huh?

Is the world full of sad people? It is a shame that so much talent could
be suppressed in a single thought. Break out gentlemen.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVIrMYUyyEU

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, Hi mikey, very nice work, thanks for sharing.
I would say, the fact that it didn't slow down at all under load is good and the fact that you observed it speed up a little is great.
Can't wait till you get it running again.
Tested my coil today, posting results in my thread, to keep this one clean.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Turion
Having fun? I look like a drooling chimpanzee hovering over my rig for hours.
On amp draw I didn't, I wanted to and was just about to load it
with bulbs an the whole system bottomed out. But I did get two
substantial pokes as I bumped the clips and terminal board that
packed a pretty good wallop for such puny wire dia.

Watching that scooter motor peter out made me think on some of
my ac motors I could be running on a variac to get things going again,
I am trying to decide what motor would pull my rotor past 2000 rpm's.

Let's see now you are using 600 watts to get your rotor up to speed
without coils. Very interesting, nice to have your data kicking
around this thread, very nice indeed.





@ Sky
Looking foreword to your long coil test of 4557 feet

Glad you are having fun. Remember that actual AC voltage under load will be far less than the open voltage you measured, and rectified D.C. Voltage will be far less than that. Did you get an amp output before things went south?

Hi all, Hi mikey, very nice work, thanks for sharing.
I would say, the fact that it didn't slow down at all under load is good and the fact that you observed it speed up a little is great.
Can't wait till you get it running again.
Tested my coil today, posting results in my thread, to keep this one clean.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Post here also SKY

Good thinking Sky, always be careful, I am ashamed to say I took some
chances yesterday walking around my spinning rotor without shields.

Another thing I thought of about you and I using the thread like wire, you
30 awg and me 29 awg was that it seems to have little effect on the
rotor either way which is good for starting out. If I load this coil at the
wrong speed and wire length it slows right down and from 400 feet all the
way up to 2400 feet the slow down is pronounced. For this rig.

AT the 18,19, 20 strands or 3400 feet their is very little or no effects
however it is the turning point for me known to many as the "Break Even"
spot. Now I need to keep going another 3 strands (3 X 175 = 525') TO SEE
if going more feet away from this TDC or "TOP DEAD CENTER" point will
increase acceleration greatly. I think I am just over the top and with a new
motor running 2000 rpm's plus I will be way past that break even.

Hi all, i tested the large coil today.
I placed the ferrite tube core as close as i could get it by hand, without being unsafe and it did NOT slow down at all when shorted.
At the rotor speed it was at, the open circuit voltage was 175 vac.
At the slowest speed i can get the rotor to go, it did slow down slightly with coil shorted.
Then one more notch up in speed on my RC transmitter, caused the rotor to be neutral upon coil short, meaning it did not slow down.
Though without a tachometer device, i cannot tell if it speeds up a little.
Here is a pic of the setup and a video.
https://youtu.be/WPQGGP-OepE



peace love light

[BroMikey]

Pulled the Matt Mod Mtr to see if the brushes went? Yup they were
weak brushes. Anyway I pulled the drive link and saved the parts
to reassemble later (Still only have 3 out of 4 bolts to hold it together)
shimmed it up to another motor I had that runs 3600 rpm's max now I
need to make a mount. The motor is a 120 vac 2.7amp maximum but
I probably won't need but about 1.5 amps to run my rotor (guessing)
at slightly lower speeds but twice that of the scooter motor.

I will probably not stay with that motor because I don't think it can be
pulsed. Or can it.

BTW if you find any old golf clubs that the wood has decayed and you can
get them cheap, do it, the shanks are stainless a multi graduated sectional
that tapers down. Super strong shim stock, for motor shaft, quite thin.

I had collected them at $5 a complete set and I have 4 sets. Have lots
and you couldn't buy that kind of shim stock or find a price under hundreds.

[Wistiti]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post

Now take that exact same 2400 feet of wire and wind that same bobbin with 12 strands in parallel and connect six to six in series. NOW that same coil will speed up under load when connected to ANY load I put on it. THAT is the advantage I see of the parallel windings connected in series.

Dave, im pretty sure you know doing that (connecting parallel coils in serie) is one of the way to have as a result bucking (POC) coils...

Thanks for sharing it!

Hi Turion.
As I see how your coil is build is something like in the drawing attach...

Can you please confirm it?

Thank you.

[Wistiti]

Thank you Turion, it all make sence to me.

For me it is exactly like my drawing but you cut the 2 wire before winding them on the core and you reconnect them after.

I will experiment with that. Thank again for always sharing with the community!

[jettis]

Wistiti,
If the blue wire in your picture is composed of two wires wound in parallel and connected in series, then that is correct, but I don't think that is what you intended to show.

Here are the best instructions I can give:
Wrap a coil with 12 wires in parallel. You have 12 beginnings of wires and 12 endings of wires.
Take the end of wire one and connect it to the beginning of wire two. Take the end of wire three and attach to the beginning of wire four. Take the end of wire five and attach to the beginning of wire six. And so on. All this is done AFTER the coil is completely wound with the 12 strands.

When you are done making those connections, you will have the beginnings of SIX longer wires and the endings of six longer wires. Now connect all the beginnings of the wires together and all the ends of the wires together.

You are winding them in parallel, connecting them in series, and then putting your series wound wires in parallel.

Depending on the SPEED of rotation, you might need to put three or four in series instead of only two. In that case you wind up with fewer wires at the last step to put in parallel again. That is why starting with 60 wires is best, but 24 will work and so will 12. Multiples of 12 is best because it gives you the MOST combinations. But ALL CONNECTIONS are made after the coil is wound with at least 12 strands and 24 is better and 60 would be best. This also gives you MORE CONTROL of the output of the coil. The more strands you have in the final stage the more amps you have. The longer the strands in the final stage the more voltage you have, so to some extent you can control the coil output with the connections you make between the wires. At minimum you will need to end up with half the number of wires you started with to get speed up under load, but after that it MAY work and you can decide what connections to make to control your output. It may NOT work because of your rotor speed and you will have to put MORE wires in series than just two. I hope this all makes sense.

It all also assumes you have enough wires length to your strands. 12 strands a foot long is NOT going to work. I gave 12 strands 100-150 feet long of #23 as an example because I KNOW it works on a SPECIFIC sized bobbin with a SPECIFIC sized core. What you do with that information is up to you.

One of our biggest problems is that everybody is doing their own thing with different sized rotors and different sized magnets and different motors turning them and different sized bobbins with different lengths and sizes of wire, and then wondering why they can't get the same results as someone else. It's ridiculous. People here are not replicators, they are imitators. Why bother to disclose something when NOBODY is going to build it the way you showed them how to build it, and therefore are NOT going to get the same results. Rant, rant, rant. Blah, blah, blah.

This is the way I see it done.... Erfinder also posted about this over on Overunity in the "Sine to Square" thread.

Dave Wing

[Mario]

Hi Dave, are you using plain iron cores or welding rods?

cheers,
Mario

[BroMikey]

Hi Dave, are you using plain iron cores or welding rods?

cheers,
Mario

Last I knew he was telling me to use my iron oxide with rods and epoxy
then he said once before in a post over the years that he just uses iron
cores so I am guessing since they need to me custom for a specific
size rotor with a machine shop punching holes for magnets? Humm I think
he uses rods in bundles but if this is wrong he will correct me.

I am trying to save his keypad on his smart phone.

Is this right Dave? Thx Mario

[BroMikey]

BTW this splitting the positive thread might seem a little confusion to
some because they don't see how SUUL load applies to STP. But
it does, just rust me on that one and so get a motor to power a rotor
and wind your coils either 24-48 strands and get it to speed up unde
a load and call me in the morning.

Just kidding, but this is going to take work. All rotors will SUUL at some
RPM with a long enough wire. Mine reached the null point at 18 strands in
running a God awful slow rotor speed of 1100 rpm's.

I am going up to 3600 rpm's, watch those bullet like magnets. I am
building a guard. For what I read somewhere gen coils can be used
to split the positive (STP) and just about every load can be run by
STP connections.

Coming soon. Gentlemen "WIND YOUR COILS" sort of like gentlemen
"START YOUR ENGINES"