Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[wantomake]

No mains.

@ ALL,

I still use mine many times daily.
The load Amperage comes via ground - It is NOT provided by the
HOT connection through the 20 amp rated wall socket - that is why
HIGH AMP loads can be achieved WITHOUT going through the Mains
METER.

As it was said , you can't "catch a cat " that can't be caught.
The cat Hides in the GROUND and simply waits for the " ...here kitty- Kitty... "
call.

I'm still just listening in and won't answer post questions so don't waste your time.

Clarence

Clarence,
Hello ole friend.

Not using the mains means just that. I've been using a UPS but it doesn't have high wattage output. So I need to invest in good pure sine wave inverter for my setup.

To All,
Replication on this forum is everyone's choice and not mine or Clarence advice. You build at your own risk. That's the spirit of this forum, to take a chance/risk to build an idea you read about here. I've spent time and resources several times to attempt replicating ideas here. I've lost both but gained knowledge. I know this is my doing. Not a forum members fault that presented the idea.

wantomake

[level]

If it 'works' when connected to the mains but does not 'work' at all the same when using a battery and inverter then it is pretty certain what you are seeing is due to a mains ground loop, cats or no cats. B&L seem to have been fooled by this as well, but it appears they eventually realized or it was explained to them by an unhappy power company that it was just due to a mains ground loop. I guess some people may just have to find out the hard way when the power company lays charges and the police show up at their door.

[BroMikey]

@ ALL,

I still use mine many times daily.
The load Amperage comes via ground - It is NOT provided by the
HOT connection through the 20 amp rated wall socket - that is why
HIGH AMP loads can be achieved WITHOUT going through the Mains
METER.

As it was said , you can"t "catch a cat " that can"t be caught.
The cat Hides in the GROUND and simply waits for the " ...here kitty- Kitty... "
call.

I'm still just listing in and won't answer post questions so don't waste you time.

Clarence

Nice to hear about your success after so much hard work to verify that
the energy is coming from the ground and not the utility company. The
patent would not have been granted if the local power company and
the scientist running the patent office could show otherwise.

As we know guys like level and others who make setups that draw right
from the pole backwards can not be compared with ground energy
collection.

I forget the name of that power company out there that said that the
energy was not coming from their system but in fact the Barbosa boys
were getting energy from an unknown source.

I knew you could do it, you are a great researcher who shares. All of
the other inventions that are open or given away free are treated the
same way so you are not alone.

Thanks

[clarence]

Still using mine daily

@ ALL,

I still use mine many times daily.
The load Amperage comes via ground - It is NOT provided by the
HOT connection through the 20 amp rated wall socket - that is why
HIGH AMP loads can be achieved WITHOUT going through the Mains
METER.

As it was said , you can't "catch a cat " that can't be caught.
The cat Hides in the GROUND and simply waits for the " ...here kitty- Kitty... "
call.

I'm still just listening in and won't answer post questions so don't waste your time.

Clarence

[level]

Vrand,
Clarence got his to work without mains power in spite of what some post here.

[wantomake]

One more test

Vrand,
Any new findings with your B&L setup?

Today I'll dig out my setup and try it with a UPS unit I have. One last try with a pure sine wave unit can't hurt. I just can't afford a psw inverter at this time. Hope the UPS works while connected to my modified sine wave inverter. There's no mains power at my shop unless I run a very long drop cord. But have plenty of solar power.

Let me know your results if any and I'll do the same. Clarence got his to work without mains power in spite of what some post here.

wantomake

[pedroxime]

Yes, all the experiments in the B&L should be only with inverter-battery.
I have been several times in Brazil and trick-hack the electric meter is a very popular sport.
They call it fazer um gato, to make a cat

[level]

Dear vrand,
Thanks for sharing your information.
Could you please make a video demo of your device in operation and show the Grid input measurement you use.
Also, it would be great if you can add a 5 Amp auto fuse in series on the grid HOT side wire and show a closeup of the fuse filament. This way we will know the grid current would be limited to 5 Amps. This will also add confirmation that your meters are not being fooled somehow.
Thanks for your help
Luc

Hello Luc. Although it has been explained several times in this thread what a mains ground loop is and how to check if that is what is happening, people still seem to keep getting fooled by this. Why they would ignore this warning is beyond me.

You can also place an AC current clamp-on meter on the mains 'hot' phase wire (not the 'neutral' phase wire) at the input to the B&L device to read the true input current to the B&L device coming from the mains. Yes, some power meters can be fooled by this type of setup. Dollars to doughnuts the current is coming from the mains hot phase wire through the B&L device to the earth ground rod grid, and back through the ground back to the grounded neutral at the mains service box (a mains ground loop).

As has been mentioned several times in this thread already, the only meaningful way to test these B&L captor devices is using a battery powered AC inverter. If it doesn't work with a battery powered AC inverter (no mains connections at all), then it is simply not working. If some people still haven't figured it out yet, the B&L 'captor' devices just do not appear to work when using a battery powered inverter, and only seem to 'work' when connected to the mains because of a mains ground loop. Hopefully people will start getting the message now. No one that I know of has been able to demonstrate one of these B&L setups 'working' where it is not actually just a mains ground loop. Sorry, but those are the undeniable facts. Vrand can confirm this or demonstrate otherwise with a battery powered inverter if he likes. People have wasted enough money and time on these B&L setups already.

[Jkeadle2]

Question on final design.

Hi Clarence,
I rarely post anything in the forums but have been following your work and I must say a working replication is very exciting. I have wondered about this device for a long time and admire your persistence in reproducing it. I recently moved so unfortunately I have to remake my ground grid but have started to rebuild it.
However could you please clarify something for me.?
Unless I misread the information I understand the final working device has the secondary windings connected together as a shorted ground loop as shown like the attached Pic 1

However on page 51 post # 1529 you said the following.
The word LOOP does NOT refer to the SHORTED LOOP AT ALL! It simply means the CONTINUATION of the Item #4 wire from one transformer to another!
The OPEN ENDS of the #4 illustrated wire become the HOT and NEUTRAL
of the circuit to POWER LOADS!
THIS process eliminates a DIRECT WIRE CONNECTION TO POWER LOADS.
It makes the power supply to the loads AVAILABLE BY MAGNETIC FLUX through the transformers.
This explanation seems to match what I see in the patent which makes me think it should be as shown in the attached Pic 2.
Just trying to wrap my head around it.

Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Pic 1.jpg

Pic 2.jpg

[wantomake]

Modified not pure

Hi wantomake,
Getting a "pure sine wave" inverter to test with DC meters, in inverter/battery setup, to see if they read any different from the AC meters in current utility input setup.

Tried to power up the device with a 2500 watt, 24 vdc, "modified sine wave" inverter/battery setup and it did not work at all. Tried to go through isolation transformer in order to smooth out the square waves, and it was a no go also, just lots of humming sounds from the transformer and inverter.

Is your inverter a true/pure sine wave inverter? This device needs a utility grade sine wave. Maybe that is your problem? Will put a scope on the inverter output to verify it is a true sine wave when it arrives.
Cheers
ps really feel sad for the folks up there in northern California that lost everything, a once in a 100 year weather/fire event.

Vrand,
Pretty sure mine is modified not pure sine wave. It's for my shop equipment. I've been suspicious that was the problem, but never tried the pure sine wave inverter. Shopping for one right now.

If that's the problem then I owe Clarence an apology for taking so long to solve my problem. I remember he used a pure sine wave one and got good results.

Thanks,
wantomake

[vrand]

Hi Luc,
Thank you for your suggestion on testing the device, but it is not possible to do it at the moment. When the "pure sine wave" inverter shows up, will test it to DC meters and compare to see if there is any difference to the AC meters.
Cheers

[gotoluc]

Hi Luc,
Yes, due to the limit of the 20 amps circuit breaker (wall plug circuit) in my current setup, the output is also limited to 20 amps. Working on testing it on a 50 amp circuit.

The device uses the input 20 amps and outputs loads up to 20 amps, all the while only 0.02 amps (4 watts) input is actually being used to extract the +2000 watts output. Pretty amazing!

Attached 6 photos showing earlier device performance, before adding more existing ground connections to lowering the ground resistance, which is a key feature of this device.

At 1400 watts output, and 4 watts input
- the input voltage is 118.6 vac
- the output voltage is 114.6 vac
- output amps 12.29A
- input amps 12.41A
- Input ground amps 12.23A

Cheers

Dear vrand,

Please do this test.
Turn off all the breakers of your home panel except for one 120v outlet.
Make sure nothing else is connected to that outlet or other outlets on that circuit.
Now, directly connect your 1,400 watts load to this outlet and go to your Utility Meter and note down how many time the Meter wheel turns every 60 seconds.
Then do the same test but connect it through your circuit with same load and do the same meter rotation count.
If both methods give the same Meter rotation counts over the same period of time then there's nothing special.

If your Utility Meter is a digital you should see - - - bars going from left to right which represents the wheel turning. Just count how many of those bars appear in a fixed amount of time.
To be more accurate I would recommend to count how many rotation or bars occur over a 5 minutes period or more time if you can. The longer the load test is the more accurate the results are between each test as long as the test time are exactly the same for each.

Please let us know the results of this test.

Thanks for your time

Luc

[vrand]

Hi wantomake,
Getting a "pure sine wave" inverter to test with DC meters, in inverter/battery setup, to see if they read any different from the AC meters in current utility input setup.

Tried to power up the device with a 2500 watt, 24 vdc, "modified sine wave" inverter/battery setup and it did not work at all. Tried to go through isolation transformer in order to smooth out the square waves, and it was a no go also, just lots of humming sounds from the transformer and inverter.

Is your inverter a true/pure sine wave inverter? This device needs a utility grade sine wave. Maybe that is your problem? Will put a scope on the inverter output to verify it is a true sine wave when it arrives.
Cheers
ps really feel sad for the folks up there in northern California that lost everything, a once in a 100 year weather/fire event.

[wantomake]

Fires

Vrand,
Forgot to mention. Hope you're not in the Santa Rosa area with that fire. We are just 10~12 miles from that area. Many lives,homes, and properties lost there.

wantomake

[wantomake]

Looks good

Hi wantomake,
Yes, the GDT is there, now shown clearer in the 6 photos I just uploaded.
The design is basically what Clarence showed back on Post #1570 and 1581 (thanks again Clarence!)

Its really a very simple device, compared to what I have been working on for the last several decades. That is what got me so interested in the first place.

When the local utility turned off the power for 13 hrs and 1500 homes were in the dark until midnight. The next day I went searching this forum last August 23rd. I discovered Clarence found the solution to tapping the unlimited electricity in the Earth on August 8th! The coincidence of needing a solution to local utility outages due to the 90 year old electrical grid needing maintenance, and finding Clarence's solution was unbelievable!

After viewing Clarence photos and ordering the parts, it was a snap to put together.

- Next step was the connection to the Earth ground to the device. See upper left corner of photos with #6 awg wiring to terminal block. Already had existing 8 ft ground rod (earlier project) so tapped into that. Turned it on and it worked to light up a 68 watt light bulb with 4 watts input!

That one ground rod was not enough to power larger loads though. So off to find existing grounded sources, as I do not have time to driving 26 rods into the Earth just yet.

- Next, tapped to existing buried steel posts structure and lawn water pipe system and bingo, got really good results.

Let me know where you are having trouble and maybe I can help.
Cheers

Vrand,
I'm not at my shop so trying to remember where I stopped working on this.

Make sure your setup isn't just "fooling the meter" with "hot" to ground connection. Try disconnecting the toroids and see if it still works. Because I got fooled by that more than once.

I used battery/inverter setup to ensure there wasn't any "fool the meter" type circuit happening. Also when we loss the grid as winter or storms happen, we use my solar battery bank as backup.

Are you using the UPS (pictured) for power supply? I would use my battery/inverter most of the time. But would use the grid at times just to test what others were doing. But in both cases, just my experience and opinion, the power seems to flow from "hot" through the GDT then to ground.

I'll recheck that when I get back this weekend, but that's what frustrated me. I couldn't get my setup to extract from my 4 grounding rods. My area is very high geomagnetic mapping. I also replicated Clarence setup exactly like you did.

So will see after I get back.
wantomake
PS Time is wrong on my Kindle fire should read 10:20am.