Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[djarno]

I redid the secondary properly. Connecting everything.

How do I solve the power kicking out without using an inverter ?

damn when I 'burn' the secondary's (thus connecting in the center) the amp meter shoots to 150 amps or so.

[djarno]

Hello tachyoncatcher,

VERY sound advice to a fellow member Sir! every word you gave to him was on point!

I do hope he takes it all to heart, at present he is in dangerous waters that I would not swim in myself. from past operations I have witnessed myself way in the past, I can tell you that energizing those toroids without having the secondary windings oriented properly to kill the LENZ effect places anywhere from 500amps towards 700amps + at the speed of light across that looped secondary and as you noted he is damn lucky he didn,t vaporize the wires in his face!
few people get a second chance!

Thank you for your heads up to him - someone besides my self warning him could save him future problems.

LOL and BEST,

respectfully,

Clarence

I redid the secondary properly. Connecting everything.

How do I solve the power kicking out without using an inverter ?

[clarence]

Sound advice!! Every thing you said!

Wow! djarno, you are lucky. I am no expert, but there looks to be massive current potential in that big wire. The kind that can steal your life if your not careful. I would think of those toroids as two separate devices, which require separate wound inductors (the big wire). Trying to use one wire makes them one inductor. A completely different animal from what has been presented here. Not good from what I see. Be patient, slow, and methodical and FOLLOW Clarence to the letter! Do not deviate. You do not know what he knows and is sharing, nor the reasons for much of his build. I not saying I do either, but I do recognize a few lessons learned. Melted wire and smoke come to mind
Respectfully,
Randy

Hello tachyoncatcher,

VERY sound advice to a fellow member Sir! every word you gave to him was on point!

I do hope he takes it all to heart, at present he is in dangerous waters that I would not swim in myself. from past operations I have witnessed myself way in the past, I can tell you that energizing those toroids without having the secondary windings oriented properly to kill the LENZ effect places anywhere from 500amps towards 700amps + at the speed of light across that looped secondary and as you noted he is damn lucky he didn,t vaporize the wires in his face!
few people get a second chance!

Thank you for your heads up to him - someone besides my self warning him could save him future problems.

LOL and BEST,

respectfully,

Clarence

[tachyoncatcher]

Luck!

Wow! djarno, you are lucky. I am no expert, but there looks to be massive current potential in that big wire. The kind that can steal your life if your not careful. I would think of those toroids as two separate devices, which require separate wound inductors (the big wire). Trying to use one wire makes them one inductor. A completely different animal from what has been presented here. Not good from what I see. Be patient, slow, and methodical and FOLLOW Clarence to the letter! Do not deviate. You do not know what he knows and is sharing, nor the reasons for much of his build. I not saying I do either, but I do recognize a few lessons learned. Melted wire and smoke come to mind
Respectfully,
Randy

[thecowweb]

No Ground

the plug and outlet have ground connection
either he replaced his rcd cb to an ordinary one as he has done in his previous video
the primary L and N of the toroid is being measured
the secondary L same phase connected and ground instead of Neutral is not measured by the input power meter as there is no return path

the output of secondary measures higher wattage

so without captor ( L + E) L N measures higher wattage due to close loop with load

With captor ( L + E) No Neutral the input is measuring only the toroid

Live and ground will still run the vacuum with out the captor


Live and ground is still illegal in our country and with permanent disconnection/ penalty even jail time is the punishment

so Clarence design is the best option if we are to replicate

my opinion only happy experimenting

Hello everyone; I'm reading your treats and this hit me because I have watched this video too. I should inform that in Europe the ground connection exists and it is also used the differential switch. In the video it seems to be able to see: the L and N wires that feed the primary of the toroid. Pink cables of the toroid's secondary seem unrelated. Also the black thin double wire which measures a current about 6 Ampere when vacuum cleaner turned on (and when it is off about 0 amps) does not seem connected to anything(????). It could be the cable inductively coupled to the coil short-circuited! (?). It's clear the connection of the yellow-green wire from the coil short-circuited to the neutral of the load. The question is, where is connected to the second power cord? Which is the second connection for the vacuum cleaner? Thank you for your kind replies

[djarno]

Hello BroMikey,

the TAR TAPE sounds good to me also! after all this ground rod event is supposed to be a "set-it-and-forget-it" done deal.

I know mine are not ever going to be disturbed by me!
the tar tape would definitely insulate where its needed for a lifetime!
at least for me - hee! hee!

am up to my ... .... (has to do with the shoulder area), pun intended, with working on the alternate I mentioned. taking my time for a change due to seasonal other work.

good to hear from you! LOL and Best,

Respectfully

Clarence

I wasn't home yet so I didn't fix the windings, will be done tommorow.

Anyways any picture updates about you're current build as you sed last week you're busy with rebuilding/optimizing ?

[clarence]

Hey Clarenc

I had missed this post so let me share something with the gang.

I learned some time back that plumbers use to lay a lot of galvanized

iron pipe in the ground and they used TAR TAPE.







What do you think of my idea? It would be a beast to get back off.

Thanks a Million Clarence for verifying my suspicions about that

nightmare I had getting stuck in the ground rod network with my

riding lawnmower.

Put them babies down a few inches, Gotch-ya!!

Hello BroMikey,

the TAR TAPE sounds good to me also! after all this ground rod event is supposed to be a "set-it-and-forget-it" done deal.

I know mine are not ever going to be disturbed by me!
the tar tape would definitely insulate where its needed for a lifetime!
at least for me - hee! hee!

am up to my ... .... (has to do with the shoulder area), pun intended, with working on the alternate I mentioned. taking my time for a change due to seasonal other work.

good to hear from you! LOL and Best,

Respectfully

Clarence

[Magnethos]

Anyone has though about the relation of Don Smith - Barbosa - Avramenko systems?

I think there is a strong relation between all them.

[BroMikey]

Hey Clarenc

I had missed this post so let me share something with the gang.

I learned some time back that plumbers use to lay a lot of galvanized

iron pipe in the ground and they used TAR TAPE.







What do you think of my idea? It would be a beast to get back off.

Thanks a Million Clarence for verifying my suspicions about that

nightmare I had getting stuck in the ground rod network with my

riding lawnmower.

Put them babies down a few inches, Gotch-ya!!

Hello BroMikey,

good to hear you!

I actually pushed the top of all my 60 rods down into the earth 6 inches
below the level of the grass in the affected areas just to be able to mow the lawn as you mentioned!
I also taped EACH of their oval rod clamp connections with a peel strip refrigeration duct type tape so as to make certain no debris or corrosion
could set in. I did not EVER want to go back and redo not even ONE of those buggers! that was a BEAST of a job!

the info on the tape is HARDCAST - FOIL-GRIP 1402
you can get it at AMAZON .com or at a local refrigeration supply co.

I attached a photo of how I post holed down about a foot before I put the rods in.

hope the info helps.

Best & Respects

Clarence

[level]

What U recommend about the power cut out, just an generator or an battery with inverter ?

If it is a breaker popping rather than a GFI, then if you don't have a short between the phase and neutral somewhere, then since you have the secondary wound in the wrong direction on one toroid you could be drawing excessive current and popping the breaker. If that is the cause, then fixing the winding direction of the secondary winding on the one toroid would correct that problem. If you want to do some meaningful testing then use the generator (as long as the generator does not earth ground the neutral) once you get everything wired in right and working.

[djarno]

I bet the power DID KICK OUT!!!
FIRST of all I see you did NOT PAY ATTENTION TO ONE WORD I SAID!
I told you to cut that DAMN secondary winding in the middle and rewind
that other torid secondary winding and all you did was FLIP THE WHOLE THING OVER and think that was going to do something magical!

If you can not pay attention to what I say then do not waste my time asking me about any thing again ever! you can waste your time all you want but I don't intend for you to waste mine!

you CANNOT wind the secondary windings by just using ONE LONG WIRE!!!!!!
I have said the repeatedly!

IT IS NECESSARY to wind each toroid separately with its OWN separate wire
or all you will do is keep screwing up time after time! GET THAT INTO YOUR HEAD!

I have attached AGAIN the PHOTO of a correctly wound secondary winding on the toroid! LOOK at it and study it for a couple of hours if need be!
MAKE SURE BOTH are wound EXACTLY THE SAME! they should look like TWINS sitting side by side!!!! then you can use T W O clamps and connect the top wire to top wire and the bottom wire to bottom wire!
ITS really NOT that difficult!!!!!

after you get that much correct then you can move on with the rest !
Hopefully...!

LATER!

Clarence

I correct it tommorow. Relax the reason I didn't do that yet was because I was to excited.

What U recommend about the power cut out, just an generator or an battery with inverter ?

[level]

It kicks out the powerline. Its due power returning onto the neutral back to mains.

If your service panel has a GFI (ground fault interupter) then since the hot wire goes through the load to earth ground, this will kick out a GFI. GFI's prevent mistaking mains ground loops for free energy.

[clarence]

Still wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It kicks out the powerline. Its due power returning onto the neutral back to mains. It was raining so didn't try an generator. Probably tommorow.

Can you please tell me whats connection wrong besides the big secondary ?

Brown is power. the earth cable on the left where earth is ground returning.

Sincerely

I bet the power DID KICK OUT!!!
FIRST of all I see you did NOT PAY ATTENTION TO ONE WORD I SAID!
I told you to cut that DAMN secondary winding in the middle and rewind
that other torid secondary winding and all you did was FLIP THE WHOLE THING OVER and think that was going to do something magical!

If you can not pay attention to what I say then do not waste my time asking me about any thing again ever! you can waste your time all you want but I don't intend for you to waste mine!

you CANNOT wind the secondary windings by just using ONE LONG WIRE!!!!!!
I have said the repeatedly!

IT IS NECESSARY to wind each toroid separately with its OWN separate wire
or all you will do is keep screwing up time after time! GET THAT INTO YOUR HEAD!

I have attached AGAIN the PHOTO of a correctly wound secondary winding on the toroid! LOOK at it and study it for a couple of hours if need be!
MAKE SURE BOTH are wound EXACTLY THE SAME! they should look like TWINS sitting side by side!!!! then you can use T W O clamps and connect the top wire to top wire and the bottom wire to bottom wire!
ITS really NOT that difficult!!!!!

after you get that much correct then you can move on with the rest !
Hopefully...!

LATER!

Clarence

[djarno]

Hello djarno,

the clamp (iron) you are using will do just fine!
Also , as member tachyoncatcher pointed out , the use of the TWO clamps
helps in getting the windings connected in the RIGHT ORDER and will enable you to run the PHASE polar connection through the BOTTOM clamp and on to
the output strip.

ALSO it is true as he also said, DO NOT SOLDER EITHER OF THESE TWO CLAMP connection areas!!!! that would be a MOUNTAIN of a screw up!

thanks tachyoncatcher for your prompt heads up to him SIR!

The ground rods I use are ONLY 8 feet long and only go 8 feet + 6 " (to be below grass level). and that is plenty deep enough!

FORGET ABOUT the water level! it won't affect what you are doing! I,ve already said that before!

BEST,
Respects

Clarence

It kicks out the powerline. Its due power returning onto the neutral back to mains. It was raining so didn't try an generator. Probably tommorow.

Can you please tell me whats connection wrong besides the big secondary ?

Brown is power. the earth cable on the left where earth is ground returning.

Sincerely

[clarence]

Iron will do

I don't have an copper connection clamp, but had an iron one.
The clamp gets removed if I actually get it working, and solder it.

I use copper cable, you use copper or aluminum ?

Anyways yes, I exact replicated but saw the error when done, no problem I fix it later tomorrow when home.

I'm going to connect the ground rods with 4x6MM ground cable. Bare burn and twist it 2 turns around each rod, counter clock wise.

Clarence how deep are the rods in you're ground ? And whats the ground water level ? I'm here through the black soil like a little in the white (building) soil.

Hello djarno,

the clamp (iron) you are using will do just fine!
Also , as member tachyoncatcher pointed out , the use of the TWO clamps
helps in getting the windings connected in the RIGHT ORDER and will enable you to run the PHASE polar connection through the BOTTOM clamp and on to
the output strip.

ALSO it is true as he also said, DO NOT SOLDER EITHER OF THESE TWO CLAMP connection areas!!!! that would be a MOUNTAIN of a screw up!

thanks tachyoncatcher for your prompt heads up to him SIR!

The ground rods I use are ONLY 8 feet long and only go 8 feet + 6 " (to be below grass level). and that is plenty deep enough!

FORGET ABOUT the water level! it won't affect what you are doing! I,ve already said that before!

BEST,
Respects

Clarence