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  • altrez
    replied
    What I think is happaning is that when you use a load that stores energy such as a battery or a cap bank attached to a PWM it allows you to really fine tune the Tesla switch.

    I have been running now for 3 1/2 hours. The cap bank is charging very slowly and my primary battery's have lost less then 8 mv. There is 40mv's in my cap bank and battery 3 has went up almost half a volt.

    Its very interesting and what I see right now seems to be an excess of energy. I am logging battery 1,2 and 3 plus the cap bank.

    I have posted pics from the reference points that I have talked about as well. To recap the points are from battery 1 Positive to battery 3 positive. And from cap bank positive to battery 3 negative.




    -Altrez
    Last edited by altrez; 11-26-2014, 01:59 AM.

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  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones
    Can you draw how it is wired?

    Matt
    This is it. I suck at drawing lol.



    -Altrez

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  • altrez
    replied
    So this is what I am seeing right now on this test.





    The current going into the PWM is 11 mA the current coming out and into battery 3 is 15 mA. The Voltage that the PWM is using to run the load is 7.09 the Voltage output from the positive of the load to the negative is 24.96 volts.

    What am I missing here?

    -Altrez

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  • altrez
    replied
    Here is the model of the PWM:

    10 50V 40A DC Motor Speed Control PWM HHO RC Controller 12V 24V 48V 2000W Max | eBay

    I just tested the voltage from the output of the PWM to the negative of battery 3. Its over 25 volts! I am using 3 6 volt battery's and the load is 3 2.7 350F caps that I just added from being shorted all night.

    I got all 4 channels logging and what I see is this. I am getting the voltage from the positive side of battery one to the positive side of battery 3 that's powering the PWM plus the voltage of all 3 battery's.

    Any ideas Matt?

    -Altrez

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  • altrez
    replied
    I set up a 6volt Tesla Switch to experiment with super caps as a load. So far its been working pretty good. I added a diode to block voltage from going back into the PWM and noticed that I get over 20 to 21 volts across the caps ?






    That seem really interesting to me.



    -Altrez

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  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones
    Its got to be the PWM. With a duty cycle of 10% you should see a 90% drop in current, but with a duty cycle of 90% you should see a 10 percent drop.

    That would also dictate the input current to the PWM and the total output current. +- a few milliamps. The negative leg mirrors the positive.

    Matt
    Hi Matt!

    Its the PWM and it really makes a big difference in how well the Tesla Switch works IMHO. I have found that there is this sweet spot that you get the best charging with the least amount of energy being used. Its pretty neat.

    I am data logging 4 channels right now for the next 8 hours to see if I can see when I mess up adjusting the PWM to draw too much current.



    -Altrez

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  • voltan
    replied
    hi all.this circuit runs the moded computer fan really well.c2 charges up while t1 is on and driving the fan around 1 quadrant,then discharges back through the drive coils while t2 is on, providing a free kick around the next quadrant.all 4 coils are on nearly all the time,but with reduced current,because of c2.also there is a handy bit of advance in this setup that flips the stator core earlier for a harder push.i guess this is closer to the factory hall effect sensor timing in a standard fan.
    i thought this to be a worthy contribution, as it demonstrates that you can in fact use the same power twice by powering a load and charging a storage device,wired in series.to me,it validates the potential of schemes like the tesla switch, 3bgs,motor generators and cap switching setups,etc.
    i think this scheme should be applicable to different types of home built motors that feature stator coils that are driven with alternating currents though it may take some patience and trial and error to get it right.although there is little prospect of spike recovery with this,there are significant gains to be had in motor efficiency.
    i think this concept could have more potential if applied to a motor that runs with short alternating pulses,and has a fair amount of inductance, low range dc resistance and or higher input voltage.this would make for a stronger charge pump effect,which should drive c2 to a higher voltage than input during the first stage,and could drive c2 into reverse polarity with a field collapse during the second stage. if it can do both, a couple of diodes added above c1, as in the bubble in the schematic,would hold c2 at either peak voltage until the next switch-on point.if c2 has more than enough of a reverse charge at the beginning of the cycle to compensate for the diode losses,then by complimenting the input voltage,it should drive the motor harder.maybe with further R and D, a bit of + feedback could be invoked,where the peak voltages build on each other through resonance.apologies for speculating here, but i think it might be achievable,to some degree,with pulse motors with the right attributes.and if so,it should be worth the effort involved in setting it up and playing with the tuning.
    for best performance and reliability with bigger motors,proper motor run caps are bipolar and have very low esr and heat dissipation,as well as higher tolerance for constant charge/discharge cycling.i see them on ebay,from 2-100uf.if you get a bigger motor running with this circuit using common caps,find the optimum value for c2,then replace them with the proper thing for long term motoring.the lowest value run caps on ebay are the regular block shape film caps,but at 2 or 3 uf, you would need a row of them.
    the fan circuit component values are.c1 1-10,000 uf, c2 100 uf low esr, c3 3.3 uf bipolar. transistors are mje340 hfe measures 75 on both.led timing lights resistor is 1k.mini isolation trafo's 3k/3k ct.all run cool with the possible exception of the fan stator,which has a dc resistance of 28 and a bit ohms.
    here are some rough comparison measurements.(dmm's).and the timing was about the same for both runs.
    (as per my previous post) 4 coils driven with pulsed dc on off . / (as per this post) 4 coils driven with ac on on
    8.8v 84ma 72 hz . / 9.6v 34ma 76hz
    10.2v 97ma 80hz . / 11.2v 42ma 89hz
    13.5v 122ma 98hz . / 14.8v 59ma 116hz
    hz is proportional to rpm.100hz = 50 revs/sec=3000 rpm,i think.
    the fan is a bit harder to start this way,but when it's running it feels smooth to hold and sounds happy.
    it can be started and runs either way.clockwise in the pic.
    cheers.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by voltan; 12-04-2014, 06:59 AM.

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  • altrez
    replied
    A Question for the group,

    I purchased a new low current dc clamp meter to test the Tesla Switch at a few different spots. What I have found is that the current going into the positive of my PWM is the same as the current leaving the negative of the PWM and going into the positive of battery 3. Testing at the output of the PWM going to the Load show a drop for the load.

    On the negative of battery 3 going to battery 2 the current is the same +/- a few Ma. that's going into the PWM positive side Anyone else see that?

    So my question is why don't I see current drop going to battery 3 from the negative of the PWM when the load clearly shows a current drop?

    In my mind I think its because of the duty cycle on the PWM tho I am probably wrong.



    -Altrez
    Last edited by altrez; 11-23-2014, 07:49 PM.

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  • altrez
    replied
    Hello All,

    I am still testing the basic Tesla Switch. Right now it seems I get the best results simply charging a battery as the main load with a joule thief connected to it.

    No extended run times have been observed as of yet. I have some pics I will upload tomorrow.

    -Altrez

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  • Duncan
    replied
    yeah ... about right!

    Perhaps predictably I agree with you Boguslaw the very term “reactive power” is a misnomer also the terms real power and the phasor relationships as taught are skating on thin ice . There are obviously other dimensions at play which are not taught and which standard dogma and maths will not cope with. is the reason really money do you think ,? control, or something deeper perhaps ? ... ah well whatever

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  • boguslaw
    replied
    I believe reactive power is a term coined for explaining resonant energy oscillating between transmitter and transmission line.Of course to rob us more from money, that's the purpose... Transmission lines are too bad in every sense and they should be removed sooner or later.Only local production of electrical energy has sense ...or Tesla method of pumping Earth with stationary waves, maybe....

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  • Duncan
    replied
    thousands are aware because of the SSG!

    Well in passing --- I'm sure most have built, experimented, or at least been fascinated by John Bedini's SSGs they have proved a trial for some as they have not seen the desired results, Just from my few builds and playing with the free issue machine from the conference (David mentioned earlier) the machines can produce fascinating results , They can also almost miraculously rejuvenate lead acid batteries ! Why then for some and not for others ? Allow me to splice a few bits and bobs together which may make things a little clearer, most of which are my crude interpretation of the words and observations of John himself at various times. Here then is the first enormous clue its in this sentence of his "After my 35 years of experiments with the term "free energy" and "over unity machines". This is what it turns out to be "Reactive power" and that's it." …. from this web page http://merlib.org/node/5508 That’s it John ? really folks there are huge implications if you do but stop and consider, also reactive current is a hard state to maintain ….. Those that do charge and cycle batteries this way see that their characteristics change some call it "conditioning", close inspection of these "conditioned" batteries shows the colour of the plates is altered to slate grey…. Ergo something very different is happening ! So …. Reactive power Mmmmmm let me have a crude stab at amplifying this for you .. Power = VI cos θ and since John has kindly told us that reactive power is the primary key then cos θ should (in a perfect world) = zero This of course only occurs in one state … “electrical resonance” when no “real power” is used, to further complicate the issue there are two flavours of electrical resonance to wit… series and parallel It is (as far as the batteries are concerned) series resonance that needs to be maintained (as far as possible). Its a reasonable possibility to hold a circuit resonant with a close tolerance capacitor and stable conditions but the odds are tilted against when the capacitor is actually a lead acid battery with a dielectric that is constantly changing. Now as Aaron has pointed out space ,size and I suggest the odd concept of counter space come into play. No two lead acid batteries are the same. Just as No two SSGs are the same, still for many either by luck or judgement a happy marriage of batteries and machine has been seen to work whilst others have become quickly despondent perhaps not realising that as John points out reactive power … ergo resonance, is key and resonance is a fickle and changeable friend.
    Last edited by Duncan; 11-18-2014, 06:43 PM.

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  • altrez
    replied
    Hello All,

    I have ran several more tests on the Tesla Switch. I have found out that even tho my voltage gets back to or above the starting point there is little to no current left after 6 runs. I purchased a cheep battery tester to confirm this.

    My method to test was to charge a 12 volt battery of the same type up to the same voltage. Each time the battery from the Tesla Switch shows bad under load. When I say bad it drops to under 12 volts under load after resting for 15 minutes. The battery from the charger was good and had plenty of current behind its voltage.

    I am looking for a decent current logger once I find one I will do the same tests and document them.



    -Altrez

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  • voltan
    replied
    hi all.just a thought.i used to get modified computer fans to run well with all 4 coils being driven,by putting a mini isolation transformer across the coils,thereby synchronously switching a transistor.the iso trafo is listed as 3k/3k ct. i would assume medium to high reactance in this component helps to maximize spike energy recovery and overall motor efficiency.
    during initial setup there was always a bit of fiddling, trying different connections,sometimes swapping them.to help identify the right setup i added a bright white led in series with some resistance,depending on input voltage, wired in parallel to the driven coils for a timing light.aiming this at a dot or line on the fan hub i could see when the power was on while the fan was running. i could then adjust the timing a bit with a diode here and a cap there to the stage where the timing was pretty close to using 2 coils for sensing only.
    i was thinking this might be easier than optical triggering and more reliable than reed switches,if it can be made to work with different types of home built motors,ie. short pulses as different from being on for about 90 degrees of rotation.
    c1 absorbs the spikes,for t1's protection,in the absence of a spike recovery scheme.d1 and c2 tailor the trafo signal to make for half decent timing.with a bit of trial and error it could be the basis for a good timing system for different applications.
    incidentally that zero force motor looks to me like a computer fan motor,but inside out.i'm guessing it too has the 4 poles in the rotor arranged n-s-n-s,but with 2 coils instead of 4 in the stator,which probably flip polarity every 90 degrees and basically stay on.after watching the other vid gyula added, its apparent the stator coils and their magnetic fields are at right angles to normal,thereby achieving near lenzless operation by the sound of it.much to learn about.
    repulsion type pulse motors send the pulse at the point of zero crossing(when the stator and rotor poles are in alignment).
    i can move the switch on point around that area on the fan so hopefully this is helpful.cheers
    Attached Files
    Last edited by voltan; 11-20-2014, 12:37 AM. Reason: details

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  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by wayne.ct View Post
    Without knowing what you are displaying it is not going to be meaningful to say what it is. Anyone's guess could be different. Putting the same signal into to two channels on the scope and adjusting the Y-offset could produce this.
    Hello,

    I have it hooked to the negative of battery 3 and the positive from the PWM.

    -Altrez

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