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  • altrez
    replied
    Hello,

    I took a few pictures last night of the input current going into my load from the positive side of battery 1 and the output of my load going into the postive side of battery 3.

    Input:



    Output:



    So that much is indeed true. I see it all the time and anyone can see the same with a meter.



    -Altrez
    Last edited by altrez; 12-05-2014, 04:13 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    BroMikey,
    He shows you what he is doing? Really? How is it all hooked together? What is the circuit? I can't tell WHAT he is doing from that video, but I do know he said it was a BRUSHLESS motor. That alone tells me volumes. If all you want is videos, I have posted a TON of videos of running a motor between the positives. Take a look at my YouTube channel.

    Dave

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  • Turion
    replied
    wayne.ct,
    Don't mind me. About once a week I get frustrated and vent. Then I get back to work. LOL. Wait until I've downed a couple six packs and really get rolling. (Me too Matt!!)

    Dave

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  • altrez
    replied
    I am going to back Dave up on this. I spent over $140 on a low amp DC clamp meter to test with. It clearly shows that more power is going out into battery 3 then is going in from battery 1.

    I have even posted pictures! The issues are that its a bit tricky to get the loads just right. Sometimes its a perfect in/out reading. Sometimes its almost 2 x out.

    I have tested this. I see it all the time. I have pictures it does work. I am not sure why or how.



    -Altrez
    Last edited by altrez; 12-05-2014, 03:48 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Matt gave everybody the basic design of the motor in that pdf. that Randy put out. That hasn't changed. It has been out for a year. Who noticed what they had? All he has done is modify a few things that ANYBODY could modify, but too many people are sitting around waiting for someone else to give it to them without doing any work and a whole gob more are still in denial that this is possible. If you just put an off the shelf motor between two positives and put a scope on it, you will see more OUT than IN. How hard is THAT? So when you rewind the motor in Matt's configuration, you get MORE out. And when you PULSE that you get even MORE out. The future is here and now, and you are looking at it. This is the first step. If you get NOTHING ELSE from us you have what you need already. Just build it. There are OTHER examples of Lenz free generators out there. Hook this up to one. Don't wait for ours if you don't want to. It may take us a while before we are happy with something. Run a motor for FREE. Be happy.

    Dave
    Last edited by Turion; 12-05-2014, 05:41 AM.

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  • wayne.ct
    replied
    Hey There

    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    It doesn't look like a whole lot of folks have decided to give this a try.
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    We NEED the best pulse motor we can get. So building the "BEST" pulse motor is step one. Who's ready to take the first step?
    Listen, Dave. I know you have good intentions, but we are not all moving at the same speed. I think you have a good thing going here. Give us a break. You have spent a lot of time working on this and dropped a hefty chunk of change into the effort. It is much appreciated. We all want this to work for everyone. What goes around comes around.

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  • Tishatang
    replied
    Yes, sounds exciting. Please enter the motor in the pulse motor contest. Very curious. I have one of my own ideas for the contest. But, it will be very crude if it happens?

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  • Turion
    replied
    DavidE,

    I do indeed have a modified pulse motor connected to a generator with a flywheel. It is sitting on a bench at the machine shop right now, all assembled, waiting for me to get the timing circuit all soldered up and everything connected. I have run it many, many, many times. I have new boards on order for it from PCB express and parts on order from DigiKey, which all should be here any day now....Probably today as a matter of fact. It is something I have been putting together and playing with for well over a year at a cost of over $2,000.00. I think I've spent $600.00 in just the last couple months just on the electronics alone, without taking into consideration the machine work that has gone into all the rotors that didn't work cuz the magnets just popped out, etc.

    But there are several issues. First, it is NOT something the average guy here is going to go to the expense to replicate. Second, though the pulse motor I have works (Matt's original design) we have a new design that works better, which I need to get wound and switched out. Yes, I could film it running in the next few weeks, and will probably do that, since I spent all this money on it.

    BUT....................Third, and most important...
    We were going for something a lot simpler, and I believe we have come up with something we hope to be sharing in the next few weeks. If not, I will probably be posting videos of that monster running in the near future. It runs on 12 volts at 7 amps or 84 watts, and puts out over 1200 watts UNDER resistive LOADS. So it's great for filling up some big caps, charging batteries, whatever. When run off a three battery system, rotating the batteries, the power used to run the motor is all recovered. So I don't just THINK this stuff works, I KNOW it works. I have run it on the bench. I have taken videos and shared them with Matt. We have redesigned coils and rewound them to get the right voltage output at the RPM that this motor wants to run at. With a new and different winding on the motor, I may have to rewind all 12 coils. It won't be the first time, but I can always hope it is the last. Initially we were getting nearly 800 volts per coil at I forget what amps, so I wound several different coils to get the output from the coils down to the right voltage and bring up the amperage. This has been a lot of work and a lot of back and forth between Matt and I. This has been HIS basic design, and I have done a bunch of the design of the physical machine to implement it, and make it structurally sound, plus experimenting with different coils, etc. The schematic is all Matt's.

    But as we have come to understand some of the principles that make this stuff work, they can be applied to simpler far less expensive designs. Which is where we wanted to take this when we started this new thread. That is still our goal.

    Matt might want to enter his new motor design in the pulse motor contest. Who wouldn't like to have a pulse motor that generates more voltage and amperage than it uses to run?

    We COULD combine the motor/generator into one unit and eliminate the pulse motor and flywheel all together. These are all things on the table right now as we're trying to figure out what to put out there and what would be best for everyone. We don't want other people to put out money to test our "theories" like some folks here. We want to demonstrate a complete build and have folks replicate and improve it. So when we get it figured out what we want to build, we will move forward as rapidly as possible. Honestly, that may take a few weeks. We are STILL experimenting with stuff and nothing is set in stone right now.

    Dave

    Check out post #259 (revised)
    Last edited by Turion; 12-05-2014, 01:42 AM.

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  • DavidE
    replied
    Dave,

    I have learned a great deal from your contributions on the forum, and your unstoppable spirit.

    Here is my question for you today. I believe that you have the following three items already built or sitting in your parts bin as we speak.

    A pulse motor
    a low lenz generator
    a flywheel

    Why not just power these from a conventional DC source (for now) then demonstrate the net outputs of the configuration proving your belief? With your grasp of these individual devices, and your ability to build - why not just focus on this proof of concept device?

    I have no doubt to the additional value your three battery configuration may be, but for now we need to eliminate as many moving parts to make sure the base concepts work (1+1+1=4).

    You have shared potential output data (volts/amps) from a generator that you have already built, and if those numbers are accurate, they would far exceed the conventional power requirements to make your pulse motor run.

    So why can't we go there first?

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  • Turion
    replied
    From the diagram you posted you are working on an actual Tesla switch, and not just battery rotation. I've built a few of those based on what Matt shared on the "Use for the Tesla Switch" thread, so I know what you mean about cost. I have a couple setups I am going to drag off the shelf and blow the dust off of in a few days myself.
    Dave

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  • altrez
    replied
    Hi Dave,

    I am still working on the Tesla Switch setup. Once I have that built and working as close to perfect as I can get it then I will move on to the pulse motor. It would be nice if someone would start working on the motor and getting it fine tuned.

    My goal is to have everything data logged full pictures an exact parts list for the Tesla switch part. So far I have spent over $300 on the switch so I can be sure its working correctly. If we could do that for each part and roll it into one PDF it would be a great value to a lot of people.



    -Altrez

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  • Turion
    replied
    It doesn't look like a whole lot of folks have decided to give this a try.
    A pulse motor
    a low lenz generator
    a flywheel
    run on the 3 battery setup
    Switching circuit to pulse the motor and rotate the three batteries.
    That's ALL THERE IS TO IT. Don't say I didn't share with you.

    But as step one, how many of you have really LOOKED at Matt's simple pulse motor rewind of the Razor Scooter motor (3BGS thread post #1785 has the build pdf) and put a scope on it to look at the inputs and outputs between the positives of two batteries running on the difference between the 24 volt side and the 12 volt side? How many of you have tried any DIFFERENT windings of that same motor (Different wire sizes and numbers of wires, but same winding configuration) to see if you could increase the output? If the motor ALL BY ITSELF put out more voltage and amps than what it takes to run, wouldn't that be a pretty good start? Not a LOT more, mind you, but enough that under load it is STILL outputting more than it is using. Think you could put together a basic free energy device if you had that? You have everything you need but the sweat equity to try different configurations and put together a motor that gives you the best output. We have one that works, but that doesn't mean it's the BEST. We were hoping others would take the hint and get on board developing this thing, but all we have gotten so far is a couple people trying the switching, and a bunch of people crying that it can't be done. We're not gonna serve this up on a platter. We need people who will work to help make things better, not just replicate and run off to try and patent it.

    I never really gave anybody direction, other than to list out the parts of the basic free energy device, so some of that is my fault, but I DID say we needed to find the best pulse motor. I also said that Matt's design was the best I had seen. UFO's motor might put out as much or more, but until I compare the two side by side, I won't know. My razor scooter build of UFO's motor ran great, but it also fell apart, so I need to build another one. I haven't had time to DO that. I KNOW what Matt's modification will do, and it is easier to build, so I have to confess, I have pretty much stuck with it. Especially since it has the torque, and my experience with UFO's motor was that at the lower voltages (12-24 volts) it did NOT have the torque I needed. I freely admit, that could have been entirely MY BUILD and not HIS DESIGN. But Matt's design only uses one set of brushes and is simple,so for me it was the way to go. Especially since it HAD the torque I was looking for. My apologies to UFO and his group if you guys know that a UFO modified razor scooter motor would work better. We NEED the best pulse motor we can get. So building the "BEST" pulse motor is step one. Who's ready to take the first step?
    Dave
    Last edited by Turion; 12-03-2014, 06:09 PM.

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  • altrez
    replied
    Hello,

    Here is a scope shot from today. Channel 1 is connected to the output from the PWM and channel 2 is connected to one of the transistors heat sinks on the PWM.



    I am seeing spikes over 30 volts depending on the load that I guess is coming from the PWM.

    -Altrez

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  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by BroMikey
    I have not quite figured out the difference from an SSSG, this guy shows your experiment. This will be the first time anyone here has seen the experiment I think.

    Is this the same thing?




    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQkHKxkB4n0



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhb1lVRdnZU
    Hi Mikey,

    From watching the videos it looks like he is also running a Bedini SSG circuit not sure how he has it hooked up. I first started with a solid state ssg charger as the load charging a battery.


    -Altrez

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  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones
    I am not sure where it would come in, extra power that is. Sometimes with transformers you see a real gain because you turn them into generators but you have to have it right.
    This PWM is just a set of switch's.

    With caps you have several things that can happen. Transients hitting the cap bring out the electrete (Spelling?) effect. That will cause caps to charge themselves instead of discharge. Because you have so much pulsing going on and that PWM is making noise somewhere, maybe on wires the magnetic field will draw in power to the battery. A battery and capacitor are electro chemical separators for charges.
    So at the level your running you could be possibly seeing that. Similar to a monopole charging a cap. Also at those levels the batteries become real efficient.

    Keep up the good work. You'll find it.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Matt
    Thank You Matt. I am still doing more tests with the 6volt system I am getting some power from somewhere so I plan to get down to as little wires as possible and move away from the CFL desk lights.

    On the 12 volt side I am not having much luck as of yet.

    Thanks!



    -Altrez

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