Tesla's Hairpin Circuit & the DEFINITIVES proves of the existance longitudinal electr

[Ernst]

OK, let me explain what you see.
There is an iron wire leading to one side of the caps, this wire is connected to the ground.
The whole set-up is located on a 5 m deep ground pin to which I can make connections.
The LV side of the secondary is also connected to this same ground pin.
The green insulated wire with the uninsulated end is the other HV end.
The other side of the caps (12x75pF/5KV) is connected to the metal disk.
The caps get charged when I switch the power supply on even though there is 23 cm space between the HV end and the metal disk.

I do not see any cheating in this set-up.
But let me make you and every one else here a proposal:
This secondary generates about 175 KV (if I remember correctly, I can check later) at a frequency in the 500 KHz range (I do know the exact value, but I do not want to post it here, and no it is not 504 KHz )
If you have any idea what you would like to see tested with this set-up, of course it has to be related to the subject of this thread, tell me and I will see what I can do.

First thing I will test is if a leaf is attracted to or repelled from the HV output. (as soon as time allows)

OK? Any ideas?

Ernst.

[Bob Smith]

Pedro
You were looking for some proof of cold electricity in relation to a bulb being dipped in water. See what you think with this:
RADIANT FREE ENERGY - YouTube
See 2:50 and onward.

I think he used a pulse width modulator to a coil with a reverse diode blocking the hot lead off the coil, and the cold electricity coming in from the negative side. You can find the info and PWM schematic on one of his threads in this foruj. As I understand it, cold electricity actually flows opposite to hot. It seems to flow from ground or negative pole. A DMM won't actually measure it either. It must be dumped into a cap, converted to conventional "hot" and measured.
Bob

[Ernst]

The results of the leaf-experiment.

In short:

• metal is relatively strongly attracted both by the wire and the light
• organic material is repelled very weakly by the bare wire and a little stronger by the light
• the inorganic insulator is clearly repelled by the bare wire and strongly repelled by the light

Hope this helps in any way....

Ernst.

[dR-Green]

The results of the leaf-experiment.

In short:

• metal is relatively strongly attracted both by the wire and the light
• organic material is repelled very weakly by the bare wire and a little stronger by the light
• the inorganic insulator is clearly repelled by the bare wire and strongly repelled by the light

Hope this helps in any way....

Ernst.

Interesting stuff. As for ideas/suggestions, could you repeat the experiment with an incandescent bulb? Also can you leave the top end of the coil free and connect the bulb to the ground end of the coil, and the same with the wire. For best effect connect the bulb in series between the ground end of the coil and earth, or whatever capacitance you choose to use. Or connect the ground end to a capacitance and connect the bulb to this capacitance in parallel etc. We want to use the "low voltage" end leaving the other end completely free, like in this diagram:

[Ernst]

Done.

Results have been added to the document.

As you can see I have replaced the copper strip that used to connect one side of the coil to the ground by a light bulb, as in the diagram you posted.

In short again:
Metal is attracted.
Rubber (see picture) is also attracted but extremely weakly.
The leaf is attracted better than the rubber but less than the metal.

I think the leaf is attracted more because of its larger surface...

Ernst.

[dR-Green]

There's no light being produced at all, it would seem 100W is not appropriate. 40W bulb is the max I've tried and that's a plasma ball with no capacitance on the other end, but it will produce a fair amount of light with capacitance. I found 240V 15W oven bulbs best, they will light fairly easily and are impossible to make work as a plasma ball, and in relation to one of the original questions of the thread, the lower wattage produces more light relative to the higher wattage bulbs. 15W (+ 15W in series or parallel) = more light than a single 25W due to the different characteristics of the filaments. Likewise on the other end of the scale, 12V 5W bulbs are no good, plenty of plasma but a dim orange glow in the filament at best.

[edit] Although I would say these are highly questionable activities especially if the coil is earthed. You could be causing all kinds of interference in the area, it would not be good if you are operating on some emergency services or military etc frequency or spilling over all bands due to the sparks. For these tests (and probably all "local" and spark gap experiments) I would recommend using some sort of medium with capacitance instead of earth at least. A bucket of soil acts similarly enough, the main difference being a slightly higher frequency depending on the size of the bucket. Unless you are using receiving coils then it really makes no difference.

[Ernst]

OK, so you want to see light being produced first.
I have found a 7W and an 11W and a couple of 25W bulbs.
The 25W ones are microwave oven remains.

The 7W filament lights pretty good in the ground connection, but the electricity seems to prefer a way not through the filament on the outside of the bulb, arcing between the connectors. I have insulated these now with silicone kit, so I can use them tomorrow.
I haven't tried the 11W ones, I'll keep those in case the 7W one dies.
The 25W ones are really pretty when connected to the HV end, The glass lights up green with a pinkish light inside. Not enough light for my camera, though.
reminds me of a Crookes tube.
When I add my largest top-load, the filament glows orange.
When connected in the ground connection the filament slowly turns orange.
Not much light either way.

I will wait for the 7 Watt one.

Ernst.

[Ernst]

Did some tests with my 25W 'crookes tube'. It is a real pitty that I can not get a good picture of it. Green light dancing on the glass, purple streamers on the sharp edges and a faint orange glow inside.

I can say that it repels rubber. I have not tested the metal, but I assume that it will attract metal. Organic material, I guess tends more to the rubber behaviour then the metal behaviour.

More later.

Perhaps in the meantime dR-Green can give his thoughts on all this?

Ernst.

[Ernst]

An interesting collection of Tesla's statements on radiation

[dR-Green]

Did some tests with my 25W 'crookes tube'. It is a real pitty that I can not get a good picture of it. Green light dancing on the glass, purple streamers on the sharp edges and a faint orange glow inside.

Is this getting more interesting than lighting fluorescent tubes with high potential fields yet? Can you not make a video of it?

I would say that the green effect is a result of excessive voltage, far beyond what's required to light a suitable bulb, it sounds like the gases in the bulb are reacting. Arcing across the bulb terminals is another indication. Although it's interesting stuff in itself. Maybe this is why a vacuum is preferred, I don't know what they put in normal bulbs.

On a related side note I managed to shut up a very smug sceptic through connecting the bulb in a closed loop across the coil, he was very sure that he knew the filament would blow with the high voltage. The subject was quickly dropped when arcing across the terminals was demonstrated, while the filament continued to glow. So much for what he was told in school.

Problems with conventional apparatus - YouTube

Be very careful of things like that. I started off using a normal bulb holder so this was hidden, but I could smell something burning. All efforts to improve and insulate the bulb holder failed, hence using wires soldered directly to the bulb and plenty of glue for insulation. You can overcome these problems by using a capacitance (bucket of soil) on the coil output, then connect the bulb in parallel. The ground end should ideally be safe to touch without getting burned by big sparks. <1mm sparks at the ground end when I touch it = >35mm sparks at the free end (arcing into fluorescent tube on a stick). Big potential deference, but will easily light bulbs on the ground end.

[Ernst]

[Ernst]

Just tested the 7 W bulb in the ground connection. The filament gave a few short flashes but there was a lot of arcing inside the bulb. After a while the silicone insulation gave way and arcing through the silicone occured. I did not see a clear effect on the suspended piece of rubber.

Replaced this one with the 25 W bulb. A lot of arcing inside the bulb, filament remains dark, the rubber is slightly attracted.
Looks like the same effect as placing an acryllic sheet between the HV terminal and the rubber. Without the sheet the rubber is repelled, with the sheet the rubber is attracted.
In case of this bulb, I guess the glass is doing what the acryllic sheet did before.

For now I will continue with some capacitor charging experiments as I feel this is closer related to LE. I have a feeling that these attraction/repulsion experiments can be explained through electrostatic action, although I do not yet know how.

Ernst.

[dR-Green]

The voltage is too high. Place one terminal of the bulb in direct contact with the ground connection and a (relatively large) capacitance on the other bulb terminal. If nothing happens replace actual earth with bucket of soil. Also be aware of distance of the capacitance from the coil and earth etc.

I assume you've been adjusting the secondary tuning during all this?

On a related note

Tesla Patent 685,957 - Apparatus for the Utilization of Radiant Energy

[Ernst]

The coupling between my primary and secondary is rather close. About 10% closer than JavaTC advises. Therefor I need my NST to be grounded, the lower windings of the secondary insulated and in close connection to the ground. If I do as you suggest, the voltage in the lower windings of my secondary gets too high which will result in arcing between the prim. and sec.
So if the voltage is too high, there is not much I can do. I do have a small range for adjusting the spark gap, but I am near to the smallest gap. The voltage is now 145 KV, I might get it down to 125 KV, but not much below there. (the higher limit is about 180 KV)

I assume you've been adjusting the secondary tuning during all this?

That is hardly necessary. The coil has a 50 cm radius, it has quite some capacitance of itself. Half a pF will not make much difference. It is tuned to resonance frequency of the secondary with that green wire left unconnected.
(my extra and its top-load form another resonant system, tuned to this same frequency. So they form no load to this base system.)

Ernst.

[Pedro73]

Hy Ernst and dR-Green

How much thing I have to learn... but I'm really busy. I hope that this weekend I could take a calm and deep look to everything you said.

By the way, thanks.