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super efficient exciter circuit

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  • #16
    Thanks,
    I guess the logical place to start is to find out what is different about the working LED. Are there any numbers on the LED that might indicate a run date or batch. I have had FETs in the past that out performed the same model and manufacturer . The run date and batch were different . I contacted the manufacturer and they claim no change had been made from batch to batch, yet clearly the other FETs would not blow in the curcuit when the others would.

    Ready for change.

    I have the board setup so I can change out every component. I have all the connections hard wired though. I use 1,2, and 3 pin screw down connectors for quick connects. I have had too many issues bread boarding with these types of curcuits. Short, and solid connections make big changes sometimes.
    Last edited by Jiffycoil; 09-21-2012, 03:18 PM.

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    • #17
      Jiffy coil nice to see you around here again. Man I was wondering just the other day were you have been. Hope all is well.

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      • #18
        Hi all, Attached the schematic in a printable format.
        I revised it with regard to 1 of the Nichia led cobs.
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          Hi Jaskro,
          Nice job. Can you say what the load LEDs are rated at? You may have said so in the video I can't remember.

          Hey Red,
          Good to see you my friend.

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          • #20
            Hi Jaskro,

            Thanks for the further info. It is bad news that you inserted a 1 Ohm resistor and it killed the whole operation. It is also bad news that the use of the decoupling capacitors also kills the effect.
            These may indicate that the inner circuit of the power supply may play a certain or crucial role in your exciter setup.
            This may question the successful usage of any 9V or 12V batteries to replace the power supply. Especially the 9V alkalines have a much higher inner resistance / impedance than the regulated power supplies so most probably you would not reproduce the effect with them... I wish you could.

            IF you could replace the LED cob D4 with an equivalent value capacitor and still get the effect than it would mean also the important role of the power supply BUT here another test is in order: just separate this LED comb from the circuit, illuminate it from an outside light source and measure voltage output (if any) across its legs with a voltmeter, I have heard of LEDs producing some output when they receive light (but probably the output is small).

            You mentioned the crock lead is also critical component in reducing the current draw, basically this piece of wire I think serves as a capacitive top loading for the Tesla coil (because your big coil surely resonates on its own natural, probably quarter wave resonant frequency of 2.5 MHz and has a voltage maximum on its top part, this is why the plasma appears) so what I mean is that the crock lead greatly enhances the strength of stray EM nearfield the coil produces.
            And I mention this because I have been thinking on a suggestion which would just confine the nearfield into a certain volume of an enclosure around the big coil but not beyond. BUT if the nearfield is a must in your circuit area that may include the power supply too, then my suggestion would also kill the effect.
            I think of constructing a helical or coaxial resonator which inherently includes a shield around the center coil (and the center coil could be very similar to your present L2 coil but with higher OD), this way the huge nearfield would not manifest as much as it does now. And a helical resonator can have similar or maybe better quality factor like your present unshielded L2, this depends on its construction.
            This is a good link on getting to learn about it but again if the lack of the nearfield kills the low power consumption, then no need for this:


            IF the effect cannot be reproduced without your power supply then may be a kill a watt meter would still show the input mains current change if any when you detune the setup to see an increased draw on the power supply's front panel current display. IF the kill a watt meter would not indicate any mains current change when you cause the exciter to draw the 80 - 100mA current from the less than 10mA state, then you can be sure the exciter draws the 80-100mA current or in a similar range, regardless from the less than 10mA front panel current display. At least this is what I think is greatly probable, only tests can tell the truth.

            Greetings,
            Gyula

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            • #21
              Hi Jiffycoil,
              Doesn't matter much what type of led load you put there.
              My experience is that many types are working. The only remark from me would be that the load should be heavy enough and rated on or above 20V. Small led's are lighting up (blowing up but you will not get the amp draw as low as you like. See my new vid on YT.

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              • #22
                Hi Jaskro,

                Just seen your new video and while I more or less maintain my concern on the crucial role of your power supply I think the crock lead may give a "useful" feedback also to your circuit which somehow compensates current draw... but this is a wild guess, LOL

                For the time being I have no more ideas besides the suggestions I have written so far so all I can say is just try to get the same effect from a different energy source like batteries, super capacitors or photovoltaic/solar cells. I tend to belive the low current draw is a reality indeed but you may agree here it should be achieved from other sources like the power supply. (What is 'good' in a power supply? it has an extremely low output impedance, this is a big advantage for oscillators. though the fact you shunt its output with some nanoFarad capacitor and the low current draw jumps up, means it has some other characteristics too...)

                Greetings,
                Gyula

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                • #23
                  Thank you for posting that schematic

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                  • #24
                    Jaskro,
                    Would you measure the voltage output to your load and see if it is AC or DC.

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                    • #25
                      super efficient circuit.
                      1. crock lead is closer to the torroid , that means it is feedback to torroid , which has magnetic properties.

                      2. super cap is best test , to see how much time it takes for discharge , i know it very sensitive the effect might not happen there, but to test it for sure.

                      3. other exiter circuits i have seen the power source battery has high voltage back to the source , i mean when u test a small led bulb (in air) on the source +ve it lights up.

                      4. move the power source away from the coil, but that would not be case because of the point 3.

                      above all very nice ..bravo..

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                      • #26
                        other people have not see below 10ma draw for 17w draw of power without the exciter coil so this has to do with the high frequency and the high voltage around the circuit and power supply...


                        better to preserve this setup and work on a new one for the tests...

                        my 2 cents..

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                        • #27
                          another guess a wild one .. the hv coil using the crock lead wire is feeding the energy back into torroid back into the circuit ...

                          why because i see this working great when u pump in more voltage to it ... and reduce the resistance on the base of the transistor , which means more power to the exciter coil.... which feedbacks to the circut using the crock lead wire..

                          i see u like to run it around 18-20v ..not below 9v .. my wild guess..

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Jiffycoil View Post
                            Jaskro,
                            Would you measure the voltage output to your load and see if it is AC or DC.
                            I can't measure whether it is AC or DC. My multimeter goes crazy. I know however that it is AC because I can reverse polarity of leds and they also will light up if plus is connected to the minus.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by gyula View Post
                              Hi Jaskro,

                              Just seen your new video and while I more or less maintain my concern on the crucial role of your power supply I think the crock lead may give a "useful" feedback also to your circuit which somehow compensates current draw... but this is a wild guess, LOL

                              For the time being I have no more ideas besides the suggestions I have written so far so all I can say is just try to get the same effect from a different energy source like batteries, super capacitors or photovoltaic/solar cells. I tend to belive the low current draw is a reality indeed but you may agree here it should be achieved from other sources like the power supply. (What is 'good' in a power supply? it has an extremely low output impedance, this is a big advantage for oscillators. though the fact you shunt its output with some nanoFarad capacitor and the low current draw jumps up, means it has some other characteristics too...)

                              Greetings,
                              Gyula
                              Thanks Gyula for all your suggestions. I really appreciate your extended input.

                              In the coming time I will try to test several set-ups to see if there is reliable way to confirm the low amp draw. Today I have bought a kill a watt meter and 9v batteries so soon I will start experimenting.
                              I'll keep you informed about further progress.

                              Thanks again!

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                              • #30
                                Ok, that's what I'm getting. The scoped waveform shows AC. Do you have an analog meter ?

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