My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Cornboy 555]

Hmm.

Good sugestions DANA, also Machine it sounds like the rotor is sitting there humming like it want's to spin, maybe just give it a flick by hand, could be timing is a little out. i know it fires linearly with heavy amp feed, just clutching at straws here.

All the Best Cornboy.

[sampojo]

ExpressPCB prelim info

All invited for a look-see on the my motors circuit thread
My Motors got me Post 2000

[prochiro]

@ Sampojo
I can see that you have done a lot of work. If you are not using at least 12 gauge stranded wire both to and from the fets, you will not get enough current thru. So here is how it lines up... Fets->12 gauge solid soldered (+short)->heavy soldered pad -> 4 gauge battery cable both in and out. You really cant get away from the pads because you can not have your battery cables hanging on the fets. I strongly recommend you follow JS's layout to the Tee. I further would not order any board unless you first etch one and populate it , making sure it will work. These boards a extremely tricky and those small copper strips will melt. Both JS and Bro Donald have versions of the boards that will work but none are just plug and play. You will probably build four or more before you get the hang of it and get them to work. This is true for several reasons. I made my own and went thru eight changes before I got one to go.
Dana

[prochiro]

@ Sampojo
One other thing I would like to mention. Diagnosing your circuits problems is so much easier if you do one of two things. Split the fet driver away from the main board ether by a second board or a two pin connector placed after the resistors going to fets. If you do not do one of these, you will be replacing parts you THINK is the problem but is not. Unless you disconnect the circuit there, the blinking may not work even though nothing is wrong on that end.
Dana

[machinealive]

Well Comrades

I just can't seem to stop shorting fets. I ran the big cables from motor to drain post but I have to get some more connectors to go from source post to neg battery cable. I only had 10 ga. But it shouldn't be drawing more then the ten amps one coil with constant DC draws.

Dana

It sounds to me that you have not got enough power into the Imperial. Set freq at 30 and turn up duty.

Now I did fix the locking up, and I was able to turn the duty up full, starting at 30 hz. And definitely I could hear an increase in motor strain, I shut it off in last vid too early, didn't want to think about this at work. It was until I started adjusting the frequeny up that she blew.

I also tried helping it, Cornboy, but no go.

So I'm going to have to slowly work my way through this, but say I'm getting big voltage spikes from coil. My meter at input, although set at DC, was fluctuating past 300 v at times. Why would I getting these spikes, Dana doesn't seem to be. If anyone ever does find a reliable manufacturer let me know, I might be interested . In the mean time I'll be getting some big cable for source posts. It's gotta be from fets to motor.

Anyway,

Dana,

When I put on a load Amps Stay put or goes up maybe one amp.

Where are you loading up at, generator or motor? Do your coils draw same amps with 1 coil or 2 and 4 in parallel, maybe that is a problem, what about yours UFO?Dana what did your amp/rpm change when you just added generator? If this was posted let me know and I'll find it.

I'm going to hook up generator, low volts only, to see amp increase and RPM drop. And I gotta try just pulsing the common ground with 1 driver, see if it blows any fets as well.
What else to do until I figure out drivers?

Hey UFO, did I tell you I got a lot of friends in the aerospace industry, IMP group, does a lot of their work here. Like what are some names of "products", I could start sniffing around for. Composites for the body?. I'm sorry I can't help myself.

Machine

[Cornboy 555]

Good Man.

You are a good person DANA, thanks for helping Sampojo on this.

I know Hitby has a board that i think might be available, for all, when properly tested, but it would be excellent if we had two, and available as singles for everyone.

@HITBY, how is your build going?, hope it's all going well.

Regards Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Diodes.

Sorry to hear about your problems there Machine, have you got protection diodes accross source and drain?

Cornboy.

[Midaztouch]

J.Stone boards

@Dana

It's looks as though Sampojo is ordering boards from a company. I think that's the best thing for my situation.

I live in the countryside of Japan. I'm 7hours from a big city. There is only one Electronic parts shop in the whole Prefecture. I went there today. Its super small and their prices are outrageous and for the price, the quality is so-so. For example the Arduino UNO is $50 at their shop. Thats double the price from amazon Japan. If its possible, I want to order Professional boards from America. I don't mind to pay the shipping for complete JS boards for the Imperial. Could you please, look into it for me.

It would make the build a lot safer and reliable for me.

Thank you
Keep it Clean and Green
Richie

[prochiro]

@ All
It seems that we all have some issues.
First. There has been a lot of redrawing of Sir JohnStones Board. I did it myself at first. There is Zero tolerance for using anything different which includes all parts, wire length, testing voltage, ETC. Later today or tonight I will show my board in great detail. Machine, you said that you have 5 volts going to fets. That is not what John said and I get 12. You may not be hitting fets hard and fast enough. We all must download everything that John printed, read, reread. He did not go thru all that discussion for for nothing, or did he??? Above all, more important than the board itself is the testing. That is where I came to know the heartbeat of Johns board. I put in four fets and although I had absolutely no problems with four, John kept saying that two was best. I kept working and John was correct after all. Machine, the problem is not in the Imperial. You did that great.
All you guy's who want to order boards, we all must do that in the end, but I have not seen any diagram, other than Johns that will work at all. All your copper connectors must be from two to six times wider that what I am seeing. Heavy solder overlay on all. You cant do that with some purchased boards because of insulating overlay coat. I think That until anyone builds from scratch, sees what works, they may be wasting money by looking for a short cut. Well its your money.
One final issue. The current Arduino setup we are using works just fine. The problem that I see is that adding even one interrupt it not except-able at all. If you add even a few microseconds between any pulse, it shows. We may need another Arduino to do all the work as a separate chip is needed. This idea of a larger board will not work ether as it is a question of microchip time not speed. Like having another man to help lift a load.

More later.
Dana

[machinealive]

@Dana, I measured 5v at opto, and 12 v at gate of fets. So that should be good.

@Cornboy, I used to put diodes across drain-source, but for some reason I stopped. I believe that the monster has that protective circuitry, incorporated. Maybe that is the problem, with all those diodes, etc, the monster uses to protect fets. How would i check to see if my problem is with the protection, besides visual, I obviously am not seeing it, and fets are seemingly not protected. Maybe I will try a diode across drain-source and see if it helps.

I'm going to put a 500 v cap and some neons across the drain-source, to see if voltage spikes are killing me. I guess if we pulse, but rotor doesn't spin, we would be getting hit with the counter emf, on each pulse.

I will get this running.


Machine

[Cornboy 555]

Probs.

Hello Machine, watching your video again, it seems like the fets are working, but not transfering the power properly, this could be because of the gates going into ossilation for some reason.

Remember OUR John Stone, covered this issue, on the other thread. make sure all wires are twisted, and as short as possible, and i seem to remember you can go up on resistor value to gate to calm or dampen the ossilation.

Also putting warning neons accros source and drain i think is a good idea.

If your rotor dosn't spin, what you are doing there is pulsing a static coil just like in the first thread and if you have nowhere to let the Princess out she may turn into something ugly and destructive.

The other thing Machine, while you have the time sorting out your pulser probs, Do what UFO said and feed your creature linearly again and put a small load on it and record the amps drawn so you will have a comparison when you pulse it.

Don't know if any of this will help, but i find it very hard to sit back and do nothing when one of us has trouble.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

PS. Back to planting.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello My Friend...

@Dana, I measured 5v at opto, and 12 v at gate of fets. So that should be good.

@Cornboy, I used to put diodes across drain-source, but for some reason I stopped. I believe that the monster has that protective circuitry, incorporated. Maybe that is the problem, with all those diodes, etc, the monster uses to protect fets. How would i check to see if my problem is with the protection, besides visual, I obviously am not seeing it, and fets are seemingly not protected. Maybe I will try a diode across drain-source and see if it helps.

I'm going to put a 500 v cap and some neons across the drain-source, to see if voltage spikes are killing me. I guess if we pulse, but rotor doesn't spin, we would be getting hit with the counter emf, on each pulse.

I will get this running.


Machine

Hello My Friend,

I know how you feel...what I may ask you...is to take a deep breath...relax...

Then start first by "The Simple Stuff"...or the Wiring's between everything there...from Monster Pulser...to Arduino, from Monster Pulser to Imperial...then check if Gates are in sequence with Monster's Channels...check software codes and hook from Arduino to PC and to your Monster...Make a vary calmed and slow check up of everything...

Dana's post above is completely right in every word.

You have to realize that you guys replicating this Imperial-Monster-Arduino-Codes Programming are covering the work of like Four different "Specialties/Branches/Fields" of Electrical Engineering...dedicated specialty fields that almost no EE out there knows in full from A to Z...so you guys are doing a "Super Mega Work" in scope and complexity...so I recommend to take brakes whenever jumping from all these fields ...or software codes to Microprocessor execution to MOSFET's switching circuits electronics...or to motor dynamics...etc,etc,etc...

There is nothing wrong with your Imperial...and actually, so far is the best performing Machine of this Asymmetrical kind...on a linear feed...so imagine what it would do when pulsed properly.

Please DO NOT start adding "EXTRA" (meaning not recommended by Sir John Stone) Diodes or Caps...thinking they will solve your issues...Dana's System worked just fine without any extra diodes or caps...so, please don't...my highly recommendation !

You must have a very simple error there...but enough not to allow the right behavior/performance of either the Monsters Pulsers...or Arduino set up or connections...

Take your time...no one here is in a hurry to finish this...no one is pushing you my friend, so take your time, whenever you could relaxed seat down and analyze step by step all of it....I know you will find it and it will be a great success!!

Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

My Help...

Well Comrades

I just can't seem to stop shorting fets. I ran the big cables from motor to drain post but I have to get some more connectors to go from source post to neg battery cable. I only had 10 ga. But it shouldn't be drawing more then the ten amps one coil with constant DC draws.

Don't take it for granted, my friend...the fact of having a higher gauge wire from Drains to Motor Gates...allows the flow back to your FET's faster than ANY Protecting Diodes could retro feed radiant spikes through a much finer gauge...back to Source or Batteries...so:

USE SAME CABLES, PREFERABLY HIGHER GAUGE, 6 or 4 to do this...remember Radiant is coming stronger IF Rotor will not spin...so you are not ready there.

Dana


Now I did fix the locking up, and I was able to turn the duty up full, starting at 30 hz. And definitely I could hear an increase in motor strain, I shut it off in last vid too early, didn't want to think about this at work. It was until I started adjusting the frequency up that she blew.

I also tried helping it, Cornboy, but no go.

You meant as Cornboy suggested to try spinning rotor shaft to see what Imperial does?...right?

But then ...¿What DID YOU FEEL?

Did you feel a "stiff" rotor?

Or was it loose?

See Machine every single word of info counts here...from what Cornboy asked you to do (helping motor by turning rotor shaft while pulsing it) ...to what was the "feeling" you got at shaft when you did this...

So I'm going to have to slowly work my way through this, but say I'm getting big voltage spikes from coil. My meter at input, although set at DC, was fluctuating past 300 v at times. Why would I getting these spikes, Dana doesn't seem to be. If anyone ever does find a reliable manufacturer let me know, I might be interested . In the mean time I'll be getting some big cable for source posts. It's gotta be from fets to motor.

Yes, do it slowly...just like I wrote on prior post

Anyway,

Dana,

Where are you loading up at, generator or motor? Do your coils draw same amps with 1 coil or 2 and 4 in parallel, maybe that is a problem, what about yours UFO?Dana what did your amp/rpm change when you just added generator? If this was posted let me know and I'll find it.

I'm going to hook up generator, low volts only, to see amp increase and RPM drop. And I gotta try just pulsing the common ground with 1 driver, see if it blows any fets as well.
What else to do until I figure out drivers?

As Soon As You just Hook Up both shafts together through the coupling...(Motor and Generator)...Amps will start going up by feeding linear...not even loading electrically the Generator Head...and the Increase isn't small at all...try it.

Now my suggestion here Machine:

Do You have ANOTHER FOUR GATES ASYMMETRICAL MOTOR?...Preferably a much smaller than Imperial?

If You do...I will love for you to test it with your set up...

Hey UFO, did I tell you I got a lot of friends in the aerospace industry, IMP group, does a lot of their work here. Like what are some names of "products", I could start sniffing around for. Composites for the body?. I'm sorry I can't help myself.

Machine

There are many "composites" used in Aviation, Machine...there is like a "Honeycomb" look like Sheets of different fibers...some are for structures, some for inner walls, flooring, etc

There is also the HSLA (High Strength Light Alloy) Metals that differ from automotive industry in the Higher S-L ends...meaning Stronger and Much Lighter...look like aluminum...but it is not.

KEVLAR's...Carbon Fibers basically...my friends...some to be molded from scratch...to make the "Parts" for this...project.

And, I really do not want to disappoint you...but:

Even after we could get all this Materials...and build one "Craft" for ourselves..."They" (FAA basically) will not allow Us to fly it "around freely" just like that...my friend...would have to be done in Private Lands/Warehouses...outside the City areas...outside Air Traffic...outside Power Lines or Radio/broadcasting Antenna's ...lot of work...lot of fund$ friend...but we will see...

I have spent a good "chunk" of my life learning on flying machines...mainly the Helicopter...from how it operates to actual flying them...dynamics of designs/calculations on blades pitch angles, throttle required...RPM's and Torque on Main Rotors...etc,etc


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

@ machine
We all feel part of your frustration. Before I pulsed the Imperial, I did the smaller motors as UFO stated. There is you testing and learning ground I think. You can take the battery cables off the setup and use 12 gauge or even smaller wire to run from just two of your circuits to a fist size motor or any small in fact. 12 volts should do it. run one pulse one way and the other pulse opposite. This will not even stress your circuit and although missing the other two pulses will run the small ones just to roughly test something. If you cant run a small one, there is definitely a problem. So many suggestions and so little time.
Dana

[Midaztouch]

Arduino starter kit

Arduino starter kit arrived today


The original Arduino starter kit
features 15 simple projects
that show you how to use Arduino
To turn an idea into reality
more importantly
it provides the basic knowledge and tools
that can bring out your inner genius
and fuel your creativity forever

What's your invention going to be?...it's the "Fireblade AMEV1"

Keep it Clean and Green
Richie