My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Language in Common...

Hello UFO,

I'm trying to understand the relationship between angular velocity (rpm-wise) relative to pulse width and pulse frequency. I hope you don't mind my questions:

1. I assume that as the rpm goes up, the frequency of the pulses (from the FET) should go up also; is this a correct assumption for your machine?

Shouldn't it be the other way around?...As the FET pulses go up...the RPM's go higher...FET's Drive Machine...Machine do not drive FET's...
But yes, that is the way it goes, just like in any Symmetrical Pulsed Motor Controller...

2. Can you please shed more light on the "timing" relationship with regards to the pulse (one single pulse) and the commutator (one winding pair)?
I mean the synchronization of the VOLTAGE pulse (rising edge & falling edge, the turning-on and turning-off of the FET) relative to the brushes' positions on the commutator.

3. As to the SEPIC topology, can you please tell us the timing (phase relationship) of L1 relative to L2? From what I understand L1 and L2 are on different rotor poles and so can not be regarded as being on the same core (timing-wise) as in your drawing. L1 & L2 are independent coils as you have pointed out and so perhaps should be presented (drawn) independently also.

Oh, yes, they are Independently energized just like the Inductors on a SEPIC...However, they DO are mounted on same core...and that is the Armature Core, Lester...
I have run my BOSCH with the simplest SEPIC...there could be...a 555 Oscillator with FET Drains...a suitable AC Metalized Cap, and an Ultrafast NTE576 Diode...Motor runs excellent...as output is also great. Of course, have to realize the actual SEPIC...is spread all over...

It seems to me that some sort of timing actuator (optical encoder, hall-effect gear-tooth sensor, etc.) is mandatory at this time. I don't suppose you simply want to "fire away" with fixed pulses and hope it hits the mark, right?

Yes, indeed it could be done that way...I mean, speed sensors exist and so ...that can translate into Mileage, Speed taken into Miles Per Hour... read outs...or Hours of running time, etc,etc...We could also use them for sensors to keep desired speed...However, please review the first part where I mentioned about the common Hz Language...from Input-Output...then we realize no speed sensor would be required IF we have the system read based on Frequency instead of speed...so, all we do is to raise Frequency where the parameters (speed/hertz) meet our requirements...right?

Thanks!

Lester444

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

The Guy is no longer on Electrical...

UFO/JohnS @All

This is a video of a homemade motor controller out of scrap parts.
This video is about a completely homemade high voltage high amperage DC motor controller, the controller can perform at voltages above 120v and 600A, on this video is a first test run where the controller was tested at high voltage, the next test will be a performance and load test in the electric car car.
Homebuild DC motor controller - YouTube

Enjoy
Dana

Hey Prochiro,

Nice Vid Dana...but unfortunately...read the comments there...
The Guy is no longer on Electrical Stuff...(now on Alcohol and other Gas deals, check newer videos)...say He threw everything away...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

@UFO
I did read that and thought it was strange. I saw that while bumming around the net. Sometimes a person with talent can stay on track and sometimes not. We all are not going to let you get side tracked Dear UFO. I did however find the neatest way to cool as many fets as you want, even 40 of them. A small computer fan is fastened to the end of a rectangular aluminum tube and the fets are aligned along each side. Air traveling thru the tube cools the fets vary well.
You can see it at the vary first and vary last of this video.
Dana

Brushless controller schematic Hall sensor - YouTube

Here is his homepage with controller diagram.

[iankoglin]

Bedini was doing simila in 1984

G'Day UFO,John stone

New Page 1

Bedini Did this 1984
Further down the page go to next page and the first link is this link

BEDINI'S FREE ENERGY GENERATOR

His site may give some Ideas

Regards Kogs

[john_g]

Thanks

Hi UFO / Prochiro

Thanks for your help on previous post re connections - will report back.

Regards

John

[JohnStone]

I did however find the neatest way to cool as many fets as you want, even 40 of them. A small computer fan is fastened to the end of a rectangular aluminum tube and the fets are aligned along each side. Air traveling thru the tube cools the fets vary well.
You can see it at the vary first and vary last of this video.
Dana

Brushless controller schematic Hall sensor - YouTube

Here is his homepage with controller diagram.

Hi Dana,
nice setup with effective cooling!
The FET driver is quite similar to the suggestion from Lester. So we have proof that it is right for high amperage.
We have built generators in order to control switching with PWM. I will make up my mind in order to combine those FET driver clusters with microprocessor. Loading a predefined program is dead easy so anybody can replicate it. We need program control in order to get more sphisticated and .... SW is much more easyer to replicate.
I know Nico8K has similar micro setup on his desk. Stay tuned.
rgds
JohnS

[Lester444]

Thank you for your reply UFO!

Lester444

[prochiro]

JohnStone
Here is a site you may find interesting. A 160A , 13 to50V DC motor HDrive controller with all the math done.

Robot Power Products - Open Source Motor Control (OSMC)

Dana

[JohnStone]

Proposal: Let's continue driver discussions on the other thread "My motors got me..." inorder to focus an motor replications at this place.

[Donald Haas]

Just be aware, these have bronze bearings, not ball bearing. That bearing is rated for the factory speed and you are going to way over rev it doing this. Did a few motors in the past with them and typical they ship within 2 days of the order.

Let us know what the rotors look like and measurements.

thay

!0 pole rotor, not epoxy dipped but has paper sleeves and plastic inserts on ends.

When working to get the commutater free I tried hard blows with a soft heavy mallet to try and get the rotor to move on the shaft but it would not move.

The shaft is 7.5in x 5/16, rotor is 1.5in long, 1 11/16 D, Case is 4 in long, 2.5 in D.

The end cap with brushes come out easily because of through the case bolts, original bolts are 10-32, 4in.(3/16in) I found 10-24 threaded rod to extend.

The original wire is .019inD, 24.5AWG (?)

What would be best size to wind 10 pole asym?
I have #28AWG, think that #25 would be better If someone else does these motors I can give tips for removing the comm.

The mags have tabs on both sides. Have yet to remove them for "welding".


bro d

[Ufopolitics]

[Michelinho]

Hi UFO,

For those of You, who are not familiar with the Three Phase DC Drivers applied to Brush-Less DC Motors...

That rings a bell... Is it not what is used for RC motors? The driver (ESC) could therefor be used to drive the brushless motor and are available cheap on Ebay.

Keep up the good work,

Michel

[Ufopolitics]

Three Phase...Vs Four Phase...

Hi UFO,


That rings a bell... Is it not what is used for RC motors? The driver (ESC) could therefor be used to drive the brushless motor and are available cheap on Ebay.

Keep up the good work,

Michel

Hello Michelinho,

It is similar, but not same...the ESC (Electronic Speed Control) is a Three Phase

[Ufopolitics]

Depends Donald...it depends...

!0 pole rotor, not epoxy dipped but has paper sleeves and plastic inserts on ends.

When working to get the commutater free I tried hard blows with a soft heavy mallet to try and get the rotor to move on the shaft but it would not move.

The shaft is 7.5in x 5/16, rotor is 1.5in long, 1 11/16 D, Case is 4 in long, 2.5 in D.

The end cap with brushes come out easily because of through the case bolts, original bolts are 10-32, 4in.(3/16in) I found 10-24 threaded rod to extend.

The original wire is .019inD, 24.5AWG (?)

What would be best size to wind 10 pole asym?
I have #28AWG, think that #25 would be better If someone else does these motors I can give tips for removing the comm.

The mags have tabs on both sides. Have yet to remove them for "welding".


bro d

Hello Donald,

You have a Ten (10) Pole Rotor...right?
So You have two ways to wind it Asymmetrically...
1-Dual Pentagons
2-P10 Configuration

The Pentagon design requires less wire...10 Coils.
The P10 takes 20 Coils Total...

So, it does depends...the Pentagon you could afford to use a coarser wire...not on P10 Format.

Dual Pentagon is not as fast as P10 is, but it has great Torque.

So You decide there...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

Hello everyone,

Well, UFO, I've got the generator wound. That was alot more work then the motor, at least in my opinion. 7 turns of 19.5 ga. I would not try 8 turns .

It weighs 8.765 kg. I'll post some pics tonight or tomorrow.

Also got some steel bearings to replace imperials. Now I just gotta wait for stators, and it's go time.

Machine