My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[bbem]

Successful test run

Hi Ufo,

Very nice test run and very good result for an unfinished setup!
Keep on going!

Regards,
Bert

[Lightworker1]

@ lightworker
Yes lightworker that is the rotor part #,0510052 rotor core assembly $ 35.00, also ask for stator to be replaced,#0502029 stator core assembly $49.15, and any other parts.

0510052 rotor core assembly $ 35.00
0502029 stator core assembly $ 49.15
0566001 bearing $4.00
0566000 bearing $4.00
0567028c comms 2@$24.00 $48.00
0515032 brush assembly $34.00
0596081 1/4"x 1" key $2.00
0596093 long bolt [email protected] $4.00
0514120 com bracket assembly $58.15
0541008 driver end bracket assembly $24.85
0582036 com bracket cover $4.00



@ jeffy 39
That's really terrible. What could be happening? Mine seems the best and it went through customs, you think it would be worst of all. You folks in the US have a very bad lot, running things, Stasi-like. Could UPS, or DHS be searching, too roughly, in your kits. It really doesn't make sense. I will email Dyann about condition of kits. Maybe I can speak to someone tomorrow, I'm done work early.

Is there a parts list from imperial, and did it have all parts as listed, if it didn't it's imperial. If it did have all parts as sent, then it would be UPS. It seems like UPS are xtra rough. I would contact UPS(ASAP) as well as Dyann and see what she says, tell her what UPS says, or tell me and I'll email, Someone else will be in until she gets back, so it's a different email, Do you have that UFO, I believe UFO already posted back somewhere.

Sorry fellas, but we'll get this, just have too figure out what the hell is going on.

Inside my box was a heavy foam wrapped in plastic surrounding parts, all of that was sealed in plastic bag which I opened first in vid. Mine was sealed and protected. I have a gut feeling ups is searching and not re-packageing. I would start there.

Where are the stators going? Check that parts list as sent or not.

Are your brushes too big Jeffy, or are the springs pushed in on those ones stopping them, just pull the springs out of brush holder, check the other one's to see if spring got pushed in. Post if your not sure what I mean.

Ian and the folks with private shipper will likely get best delivery. Is it too late, to tell shippers to check condition when they get it,before leaving US.

Please keep me updated,

Machine

Hello @ Machine, @ UFO, @ jeffy39

Thanks for all the info. I today connected with the UPS Damage Department.
They took the info about the part: Part# Part cost + I told approximate S&H about $23.
They told me to hold on to the part for next 5 days. Their damage assessor might want to come and examine the part in question. I gave them my phone# for them to get in touch with me ahead of time if required.

First the billing information from Imperial did not show Detailed Parts List of the items shipped out . Just the UFOKIT.

...


I tried to use the foam that came with the package to see how Imperial might have packed at their shipping department. But a hard knock to the package while in UPS transit could easily dislodge the armature and stator assembly (which I personally did not receive in my shipment).

I noticed that for packaging of this nature to be more secure there must be a starting form bed layer at the bottom of the box before putting anything in it. Heavier parts need to secured in a manner keeping in mind the momentum that might become associated with them. The rotor is almost same weight as a sledge hammer and we all know what sledge hammer can do.
These parts should be therefore wrapped in fair amount of bubble film.



Hopefully all will be well.

Warmest regards
lightworker

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks Vela,

You might contact JLN: The JLN Labs home page He has tons of equipment, and might be able to test.



I have an inverter/charger on my solar system. They work well and can be found fairly cheap. Mine will charge at whatever rate you want, it is easily programmed. I think the max mine will do is 2,000 watts, but you would not need one that big.

Thanks Vela,


I know JLNaudin Labs and sites...it helped me a lot on other testing research I was doing...basically on his replication of DR Deborah Chung Negative Resistor Tests on Carbon Fibers...He always displays every single detail, as also pictures and descriptions...I like Him a lot, He is a great French Researcher on this fields.

Time will come when we meet...and do this along...we need more Replications though...to verify its veracity...mine alone...is nada...nothing.

As Solar Panels is a great "Peripheral/Option" to assist charging and regeneration of batteries...not sure about steady feed to keep system running directly...saying...disconnecting batteries from feed, and no AC plugged...just Sun Light running circuit will do?

Anyways, thanks for your Input Velacreations...and hoping you could see now...at least... a bit of more light here.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

Hello Velacreations,

It would be great if someone out there replicating this...could have access at least to "borrow" from a friend this type of analyzers...I really do not have that possibility.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Ufopolitics,

Greetings dear friend!

You are doing great in this time of novelty, we have reached a tipping point and the work being expressed in this forum is highly supported by this energy.

Check your gmail

IndianaBoys

[mrock]

@ lightworker
Yes lightworker that is the rotor part #,0510052 rotor core assembly $ 35.00, also ask for stator to be replaced,#0502029 stator core assembly $49.15, and any other parts.

0510052 rotor core assembly $ 35.00
0502029 stator core assembly $ 49.15
0566001 bearing $4.00
0566000 bearing $4.00
0567028c comms 2@$24.00 $48.00
0515032 brush assembly $34.00
0596081 1/4"x 1" key $2.00
0596093 long bolt [email protected] $4.00
0514120 com bracket assembly $58.15
0541008 driver end bracket assembly $24.85
0582036 com bracket cover $4.00



@ jeffy 39
That's really terrible. What could be happening? Mine seems the best and it went through customs, you think it would be worst of all. You folks in the US have a very bad lot, running things, Stasi-like. Could UPS, or DHS be searching, too roughly, in your kits. It really doesn't make sense. I will email Dyann about condition of kits. Maybe I can speak to someone tomorrow, I'm done work early.

Is there a parts list from imperial, and did it have all parts as listed, if it didn't it's imperial. If it did have all parts as sent, then it would be UPS. It seems like UPS are xtra rough. I would contact UPS(ASAP) as well as Dyann and see what she says, tell her what UPS says, or tell me and I'll email, Someone else will be in until she gets back, so it's a different email, Do you have that UFO, I believe UFO already posted back somewhere.

Sorry fellas, but we'll get this, just have too figure out what the hell is going on.

Inside my box was a heavy foam wrapped in plastic surrounding parts, all of that was sealed in plastic bag which I opened first in vid. Mine was sealed and protected. I have a gut feeling ups is searching and not re-packageing. I would start there.

Where are the stators going? Check that parts list as sent or not.

Are your brushes too big Jeffy, or are the springs pushed in on those ones stopping them, just pull the springs out of brush holder, check the other one's to see if spring got pushed in. Post if your not sure what I mean.

Ian and the folks with private shipper will likely get best delivery. Is it too late, to tell shippers to check condition when they get it,before leaving US.

Please keep me updated,

Machine

Hi Everyone,

Great Work Guys,

Machinealive, UFO

Can y"all check to see if this PDF of IMPERIAL MOTORS (P56MD003 Modification),
UFO KIT-PICTORIAL-PARTS-LIST is correct it may help end some confusion.
If not let me know.

Hope this helps. PDF Attached

Thanks,
Mike

[Ufopolitics]

Hello @ Machine, @ UFO, @ jeffy39

Thanks for all the info. I today connected with the UPS Damage Department.
They took the info about the part: Part# Part cost + I told approximate S&H about $23.
They told me to hold on to the part for next 5 days. Their damage assessor might want to come and examine the part in question. I gave them my phone# for them to get in touch with me ahead of time if required.

I tried to use the foam that came with the package to see how Imperial might have packed at their shipping department. But a hard knock to the package while in UPS transit could easily dislodge the armature and stator assembly (which I personally did not receive in my shipment).

I noticed that for packaging of this nature to be more secure there must be a starting form bed layer at the bottom of the box before putting anything in it. Heavier parts need to secured in a manner keeping in mind the momentum that might become associated with them. The rotor is almost same weight as a sledge hammer and we all know what sledge hammer can do.
These parts should be therefore wrapped in fair amount of bubble film.

Hopefully all will be well.

Warmest regards
lightworker

Hello Lightworker1,

I believe the UPS Inspector will decide what went wrong there...however IMO, I believe the Transport Company is responsible/liable IF at Pre Inspection/charges Receiving side...they "approved/accepted" to ship this Box...as it was...I mean, they are the "experts'...to decide If or NOT to take it...because of bad wrapping...

I believe a "HANDLE WITH CARE" or a "FRAGILE"...in big red letters...will still be needed here.

But You and Jeffy...as others with problems...need to talk to Dyann about this issue (I believe Machine by himself will not be enough to claim for others problems here)...so Imperial finds a solution from the root, the source...and that is their shipping/packaging department period.

I had written before to ask (for future shipments) how much more it would be to cut rotor to size and insert it inside stator frame...and install bearings, and bolt on end cap housings... (not commutator(s) since they have no idea of this)
This way, besides being a much smaller package (easier handling)...there would be absolutely no way...that rotor will ever be damaged no matter what...as that way they will never forget Stator Frame...
The rest of the other two smaller/lighter parts (two commutators and the extra brush board) could be bubble wrapped and added to box...

This will be a very compact package, and easier to handle and less chances to get damaged.


I am sorry that your damages, guys ..Light and Jeffy...are "good" to a point...(sorry again) to make this future deals more successful...


Regards


Ufopolitcs

[velacreations]

As Solar Panels is a great "Peripheral/Option" to assist charging and regeneration of batteries...not sure about steady feed to keep system running directly...saying...disconnecting batteries from feed, and no AC plugged...just Sun Light running circuit will do?

Anyways, thanks for your Input Velacreations...and hoping you could see now...at least... a bit of more light here.

I think you misunderstood me there. I was referring to my inverter/charger. It can output regulated DC very easily.

The way it works, you have an AC input, and then you program the DC output you want. It can then charge your batteries directly from the generator. I have mine set to charge a 14 volt battery bank at 40 amps, and it can go a lot higher.

It might be able to output regulated Dc to your motor, too.

The input on mine is a gas generator, like when it has been cloudy for a week, I charge up the battery bank in a few hours like this.

[JohnStone]

Thanks John, i will make the discharge brushes seperatly adjustable to imput brushes. A question my Friend, does a small wire high resistance ciol have a stronger field projection than a heavy wire 1 ohm coil, in relation to HD electric motor at around 3500 RPM?.

Read your next post, BRAVO AND DITTO, JOHN STONE.

Regards Cornboy.

Hi Cornboy,
I am an educated electric engineer and know - nothing! NADA!

In terms of normal science the current is responsible for the strength of magentic field along the count of winding (ampere times windings = AW). But there are some implications.
1. If you had wire with zero resistance you could wind a millon of windings and apply 1mA you could get excessive magentic fields (1000AW). This is one of the "secrets" of Newman motor. Unfortunately thin wire will have high resistance and thus you need to add lots of voltage and you will destroy your advantage by heat. Therefore Newman used coils with up to 300kg of copper (less resistance).

2. There are some notions that tinned copper will exhibit a 4 fold magnetic field at same amperage and very same coil. I ask everybody: If you can get hold of enameled and tinned copper wire please try to wind 2 very same coils with and without tin coating and report your findings. This special wire is being produced all over the world but I got no source for it except buying 50kg at once. This could be a major enhancement for UFO style motors as well!!!!!

3.If we deal with cold electricity it is told to prefer high resistance. This notion matches perhaps your question.

Sorry: Every question rises some additional ones. I can't decide and will not decide in order to remain open for grasping the whole scene where SHE dances gracefully just in front of your blind eyes.
JohnS

[JohnStone]

Hi Ufo,
just got time to watch your vid. My company blocks videos - they know why Great test!

• Just for clarification: Do you confirm that the amperage measurement at primary side was done at the common GND of your battery bank - just before it forks to the two switches? You clamped one only. Is there a second GND line in parallel. The vid does not show this clearly.
• Have you got specs for those eneregy meters or the exact type?
• The CL2000 is a high end tool. Spec: up to 1 MHz true RMS. So we can trust it!

JohnS

[jeffy39]

tinned copper wire

@JohnStone,
Howdy John, I too wondered about the 'idea' of tinned wire
improving mag. properties. Didnt UFO state in a post way back
there that it would hinder the returned radiant energy? It would be good
to have this clarified before winding.
Thanx to all, jw

[djex81]

Hi Ufo,
just got time to watch your vid. My company blocks videos - they know why Great test!

• Have you got specs for those eneregy meters or the exact type?

JohnS

The other meters are Chicago Electric Item #65731 Digital Electricity Usage Tester.

More Info Here: Digital Electricity Usage Tester

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,
just got time to watch your vid. My company blocks videos - they know why Great test!

• Just for clarification: Do you confirm that the amperage measurement at primary side was done at the common GND of your battery bank - just before it forks to the two switches? You clamped one only. Is there a second GND line in parallel. The vid does not show this clearly.
• Have you got specs for those eneregy meters or the exact type?
• The CL2000 is a high end tool. Spec: up to 1 MHz true RMS. So we can trust it!

JohnS

Hello John,

1-Yes John, the reading has been clamped from the negative cable from Safety Switch, on side that gets disconnected when opened, to the root/bottom of the "Y" that derives to both switches...a kind of "shunt" but without any length measures and it is 6 gauge black wire.

2- Well, related to the Energy Meter I see that djex81 already answered that...thanks Djex!


Now, on another VERY IMPORTANT issue here...I just found out that I was doing something VERY WRONG HERE...On the DC Amperage reading...However, no one in this entire over 250,000 views Thread...care to tell me..as I also know...that IF anyone AGAINST my whole System being displayed here...Knows It...I know He would have NEVER tell me about it...since this error I am making...is completely against Myself...

Now the thing "on my side"..."My Light"...is...That I have SO MANY COLLEAGUES...That are very, very smart and Intelligent EXPERTS on this Fields...as they are just a "phone call away"...

I have been measuring Amperage on NEGATIVE POLE OF BATTERY....AND THAT IS VERY WRONG!!!...

NEVER, EVER, DC AMPERAGE GETS MEASURED ON THE NEGATIVE SIDE POLE OF LOAD...AS THIS CURRENT...IS...NOTHING MORE, NOTHING LESS...THAN THE MANIFESTED CURRENT BACK TO BATTERY FROM MY MACHINE (THE EXCESS, THE RESIDUAL)...SINCE...CURRENT "MANIFESTS"...NEVER TRAVELS LIKE VOLTAGE DOES...WELL, IT MANIFESTS AS INPUT AS MY MOTOR REQUEST IT ONLY AT POSITIVE TERMINAL OF BATTERIES...NEVER AT NEGATIVE!!

And of course...it results in a different readout..than the one I was measuring all this time...so...all tests thrown out to garbage can...Let's start again fresh...from the beginning...

But that is the way experiments and testing goes...as I really did not have that concept clear either...up to now...


Regards John


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

A Better and Deeper Explanation...

Hello John,

1-Yes John, the reading has been clamped from the negative cable from Safety Switch, on side that gets disconnected when opened, to the root/bottom of the "Y" that derives to both switches...a kind of "shunt" but without any length measures and it is 6 gauge black wire.

2- Well, related to the Energy Meter I see that djex81 already answered that...thanks Djex!


Now, on another VERY IMPORTANT issue here...I just found out that I was doing something VERY WRONG HERE...On the DC Amperage reading...However, no one in this entire over 250,000 views Thread...care to tell me..as I also know...that IF anyone AGAINST my whole System being displayed here...Knows It...I know He would have NEVER tell me about it...since this error I am making...is completely against Myself...

Now the thing "on my side"..."My Light"...is...That I have SO MANY COLLEAGUES...That are very, very smart and Intelligent EXPERTS on this Fields...as they are just a "phone call away"...

I have been measuring Amperage on NEGATIVE POLE OF BATTERY....AND THAT IS VERY WRONG!!!...

NEVER, EVER, DC AMPERAGE GETS MEASURED ON THE NEGATIVE SIDE POLE OF LOAD...AS THIS CURRENT...IS...NOTHING MORE, NOTHING LESS...THAN THE MANIFESTED CURRENT BACK TO BATTERY FROM MY MACHINE (THE EXCESS, THE RESIDUAL)...SINCE...CURRENT "MANIFESTS"...NEVER TRAVELS LIKE VOLTAGE DOES...WELL, IT MANIFESTS AS INPUT AS MY MOTOR REQUEST IT ONLY AT POSITIVE TERMINAL OF BATTERIES...NEVER AT NEGATIVE!!

And of course...it results in a different readout..than the one I was measuring all this time...so...all tests thrown out to garbage can...Let's start again fresh...from the beginning...

But that is the way experiments and testing goes...as I really did not have that concept clear either...up to now...


Regards John


Ufopolitics

[IMG][/IMG]

Measuring Tip & Glossary - KYORITSU


Here is a much better explanation, from "someone" who has dedicated his time to study the electronics Micro Components of a DC Amps Clamp Meter...from the Hall Effect Sensors...all the way to the Processors and Comparators...ending at the Digital Display...I really enjoy so much when I find an answer that makes sense to me...as it is very obvious...it has been written by an EXPERT on the Field...enjoy.

Basically, the part dedicated to "How to Measure DC Current" shows clearly...How the Clamp should be attached related to Positive direction...and as ALL can see...it is connected to the POSITIVE of SOURCE...NOT TO NEGATIVE.

Then after that, please read...the great Block DiagramS showing all the internal components in the AC/DC Clamp Meter, in the section: "Measurement Principle of AC/DC Clamp MeterKYORITSU ?

Well...not necessarily the Manufacturer of cheap, Chinese, Taiwanese 5 to 10 USD Meters...BUT, A very known JAPANESE MANUFACTURER of sensitive and professional (not cheap crap) State of the Art Instruments...

Company / History - KYORITSU

..A DC/AC Clamp Meter made by KYORITSU..:

http://www.kew-ltd.co.jp/en/download...09A_9903_E.pdf

Most of times...some "Experts" believe they know it all...til one single day...they get to "find out"... they didn't know absolutely nada, nothing at all...


Regards



Ufopolitics

[Lester444]

It is hard to see very well in the video, but from what I can see, here are the results:

INPUT:
VOLTS: 34.5
AMPS: 23.8
WATTS: 821

OUTPUT:
VOLTS: 119
AMPS: 8.53
WATTS: 1015

EFFICIENCY: 124%

Hello Velacreations,

Since we all look at numbers to convince ourselves, please consider also that the Mec Alte has an "implied" efficiency of
13Hp input / 6000w output = 162% input power for 100% output power
(yes the efficiciency is probably non-linear over the entire load range but that's all we have right now, so.....)

Taking the Mec Alte all by itself, that 1kw output power to the bulbs requires a mechanical input power of 1.66kw, which comes entirely out of UFO's machine.

Therefore, using those figures you posted, UFO's machine when taken all by itself has an actual efficiency = 1.66kw / 821w = 2.0

Fantastic results so far yet even so, let's wait for new numbers coming from UFO's further tests.

Cheers!

Lester444

[velacreations]

Hello Velacreations,

Since we all look at numbers to convince ourselves, please consider also that the Mec Alte has an "implied" efficiency of
13Hp input / 6000w output = 162% input power for 100% output power
(yes the efficiciency is probably non-linear over the entire load range but that's all we have right now, so.....)

Taking the Mec Alte all by itself, that 1kw output power to the bulbs requires a mechanical input power of 1.66kw, which comes entirely out of UFO's machine.

Therefore, using those figures you posted, UFO's machine when taken all by itself has an actual efficiency = 1.66kw / 821w = 2.0

Fantastic results so far yet even so, let's wait for new numbers coming from UFO's further tests.

Cheers!

Lester444

But can we actually say that without comparing to the efficiency curve? I think it would be a mistake to convince ourselves of a higher efficiency than what is actually measured.

UFO, I look forward to the new test with the ammeter on the positive side of the input.