My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[prochiro]

sinergicus
Simply, when you short out two coils or connections, you are creating drag and confusion in propelling force. Take your generator contacts and using UFO style diode connection, put them to a large cap or battery, or a bulb. Not letting that coil have anywhere to vent its power is like constipation. Pressure builds but nothing moves. Read the past advice many have given in this thread and you will find many ways to use the coil rather to increase torque or generate power.
Dana

[sinergicus]

sinergicus
Simply, when you short out two coils or connections, you are creating drag and confusion in propelling force. Take your generator contacts and using UFO style diode connection, put them to a large cap or battery, or a bulb. Not letting that coil have anywhere to vent its power is like constipation. Pressure builds but nothing moves. Read the past advice many have given in this thread and you will find many ways to use the coil rather to increase torque or generate power.
Dana

Thank you...I still reading the thread ... I have read 30 pages till now and seems I have yet many more to read till at the present...
I wanna make an experiment with one asymmetrical prime mover turning an generator to see if I can make it overunity ...the generator must be rewinded in the same manner(identical with the prime mover windings) or need to be rewinded in a special pattern?

Thank you
Mihai

[Midaztouch]

Quick list of EV motors/companies

@ all

Just to keep things in prospective. I've compared as many motors as I could. Dollar for dollar, watts for watts and Rpms for Rpms , our motor is just better overall! I can say this with pride, "We are doing a great job!"


AC Propulson AC Propulsion | Creating electric vehicles that people want to drive syst pk 200kw 50kg
ADC - advanced DC, adcmotors.com
Advanced DC Advanced Motors & Drives manufacturers of low-voltage wound field DC & AC traction & pump motors
Agni Agni Motors cont 9kw pk 5s 30kw 11kg
Baldor Baldor Electric Company, a leader in energy efficient electric motors, linear motors and adjustable speed drives industry
Brusa BRUSA: Motors - 400 V hsm,asm - ac400v 88kw 53kg
Calmotors http://www.calmotors.com/products.php GP300WC 211kw 65kg
currentevtech http://currentevtech.com/Drive-Systems-c26/ netgain, big BLDCs 27+kw, 120kw/45kg; ac09-50curtis; pancakes
D&D High Speed electric motors | High Torque electric motors | Controllers
Emrax Enstroj http://www.enstroj.si/Electric-produ...ax-motors.html Emrax 60kw12kg
Enertrac EnerTrac 30 kw, 18kg
Enertrac motorcycle wheel hub motors for full size motorcycles by enertrac
Eolve electrics EVolve Electrics, Electric Vehicle Parts, EV Kits, Enerdel, Lithium Ion Batteries, Netgain, CALB, GBS, Curtis, Zivan, IOTA, Elcon netgain, ADC, hpevs
etec - mars
EVO-electric Home - GKN Driveline AFM-240 pk 335kw 80kg
Getrag http://www.getrag.com/en/1090
Goldenmotor hub motor,brushless motor,outboard conversion kit, BLDC motor, bike conversion kit, brushless controller,brushless motor controller,electric propulsion outboard,electric outboard,electric car motor,brushless joystick controller,brushless golf car,bru pancakes 10kw pk 20kw 17kg
Heinzmann http://www.heinzmann.de/en/electric-drives
HPEVS http://hpevs.com/drive-systems ac-9 ac-50
Kelly.motors http://kellycontroller.com/motors-c-21.html: Brushless Hub Motors, Brushless Disc Motors, Brushed Motors
Kostov DC Motors, Traction Motors, Marine Application Motors, AC Motors, Grinders/Other - Kostov Motors k6-13
Lynch lemco Lynch Motor Company Ltd Manufacturers of Permanent Magnet DC Motors - Lynch Motor Company Ltd lem200 pk 36kw
Lynch specs http://www.lmcltd.net/uploads/files/...C%20Motors.pdf
Mars etec motenergy.com bldc pancakes, dc, ME1002 10'' cont 26kw pk 63kw 92kg
metricmind EV Motors | Metric Mind Corporation MES, Brusa, Siemens
Netgain (WarP) NetGain Motors, Inc. - Home warps7-13
Perm Elektrische Antriebe & Hybridantriebe - Heinzmann GmbH & Co. KG pancakes pms151 pk 30kw 30kg dc-pmg132 cont 7kw 11kg
Remy http://www.remyinc.com/docs/HVH410_r3_Sept_2010.pdf 275kw 91kg
Siemens metricmind ac 520-900v 150kw 90kg
Siemens http://www.sea.siemens.com/us/produc...ic-Motors.aspx
UQM UQM — Innovative Solutions for Electrifying Vehicles PP200- 200kw 95kg
warp - netgain, go-ev.com
Yasa http://yasamotors.com/technology/products/yasa-750 YASA-750 100kw 35kg
yuneec Yuneec - Power_Drive_Motor bldc10-60kw, 60kw/30kg
Zytek http://www.zytekautomotive.co.uk/Pro...icEngines.aspx 50-70kw syst. BLDC KERS 55kw 8.5kg 6.4 kw/kg

Keep It Clean and Green
Midaz

[sampojo]

Re:thats what I told you!!

Hey Sam,

It is good to hear from you all guys...no matter if it is about your weather down there...

Now,that is what I told you in the beginning!...to reuse the wires already attached already to your commutators!...Hope you can still reuse them...and have not cut them all.

On your Dremel work, my friend, you need to get your hand in a bit more steady, relaxed positioned to make cuts...as well as to stand one part of hand (Back end of palm) in a steady surface, and not "in the air"...that way you could easily control your dremel disc torque, not allowing it to slip out of place...just a tip, because I see some running away from the groove...as also making it too wide in some cases and not even cuts...

On the electric clip fasteners, yeah, that would work, and it is easier (like you've said) in case of re-winding it...one thing here...search for smaller connecting side type, male-female, but, capable of clamping more wire thickness (I know they make them, cause I have them...)... I see the ones you have on picture are NOT wrapping the whole litzed wires...and that is NOT Good!...FIRST You should make a very good mechanical contact, clamping whole cable, before soldering it...remember soldering lead, tin or even silver is not a strong structural welding...ends up cracking with vibration...so there must be FIRST a great mechanical clamping between connectors, in order not to depend on soldering along to do that structural job...comprende amigo?

On another way to solve this issue...but that would require more labor from you (but that doesn't count, since we are all slaves in this deal...right?...)...would be to buy a pretty nice piece of flat copper lamination (I buy them from guys that have Rain Gutters Fabricating Shops and have tons of scrap pieces and sell them cheap)...and cut "T" shape pieces...using the upper side Horizontal side of the "T" to wrap around wires and clamp them....then using the vertical side of the "T" to be bent as a hook to house your windings...also clamping then with needle nose vise grip players...make a cardboard or paper pattern first to check right lengths first.

You could make the Horizontal side of the T even longer to "bridge" two litzed wires and make that way the fusion of two comm elements.

Let me know if you understood all I wrote...and I hope all this hints help you on your great Machine project.


Kind Regards friend


Ufopolitics

Hi UFO,

Yes I think I understand. If you notice the red insulators on the connectors laying free in my orig. photo, I think those are 20ga. I will be looking for blue type, I think those are 18ga. But seeing as I am winding 4 19ga single strands from those comm segments (2 per) to connect them together, the 20ga conn. would still have to be spread, but I think it wont matter if I am able to silver solder them. I think I have seen some connectors like this photo retouch I have done. I think the right angle would be best, but then you would have to make sure it is oriented correctly for the winding pattern, cuz it surely will not allow much bending to correct being wrong about the winding direction.



But a simple strip of copper or brass as you suggest could be used to make this connector, even less complicated than the T required for the other type. I know the local hobby shop has plenty of brass in strips and sheets. The winding always seems to come in at an very flat angle from the coils depending on the amount of asymmetry, I suppose? I need to study your winding pattern now for connections of say P1 coils to the specific commutator segment. I am comparing it to a similar P10 dual stator diagram that shows those connections, and this type of asymm winding of yours is pretty standard across those armatures which you have applied, and I think it has the same characteristics and alignments as even the basic 5-pole Radio Shack winding pattern.

UFO, I applaud your energy and health, as I see some of us have had to take breathers working after hours. Please do not be discouraged at our age issues. I think you must be on that modified mediterranean diet and Cornboy of course eating his own organics As you post new ideas I hope new blood is attracted. You are right as I am still resolved to do a brushless monster pulsed motor system yet, and have some capacitor powered system tests in mind for my smaller motors. Those days for us older among us, when we burn the candle at both ends, now comes with penalties, and am reminded of even when Tesla invented these mighty inventions, he would work around the clock for days, and even in his youth, pushed to the point of collapse. After all the reward is infinite, and you have made it palpable.

Merry Christmas!

EDIT 12/28: Just reread UFO's original post about this and caught the note about even silver solder having limitations. Roger on making the good mechanical connection first. But at least UFO seems to indicate that Radiant won't melt silver solder and spread it around the motor like normal solder, maybe, as he seems to indicate his experience is just a concern with needed mechanical strength and vibration resistance.

[sampojo]

Question for Midaz

@ all

Just to keep things in prospective. I've compared as many motors as I could. Dollar for dollar, watts for watts and Rpms for Rpms , our motor is just better overall! I can say this with pride, "We are doing a great job!"

Midaz

Hi Midaz! Hey I got a challenge for you, don't know how much engineering assets your company has but take a look at these diagrams. I got these from QM power which bought Flynn Research a few years back and are advertising these performance diagrams. Flynn Research seemed to be doing a lot of things around MEGs and motors too. I think there are similarities to the Magnacoaster unit too. but the blue diagram is a conventional symmetric motor where it clearly shows the interaction of CEMF (and friction?) zeroing out the torque as rpm increases.



Now this is the improvement I have assumed has happened due to the purchase of Flynn Research:



So I get the idea these charts in one diagram nail down everything you need to know. Sounds like you have done some of this?

And so what we really need is the chart for the Imperial
And it would be simply outrageous since the power out line would be HIGHER than the power in somewhere I am sure...

Check this out too, Here is a dgm about "PPMT" at QM
Power

Then watch this video by Cody Gilespie about switching PERMANENT magnet fields wit a few milliamps

NASA uses this technology for magnetic boots, and the engineer who came up with it became known as "Boots". Not sure if this is Tesla stuff or Ed Leedskalnin...

Go Japan!

PS: I jumped right on the Baldor link, found this news release
They have an office in Philadelphia I have contacted about parts. If I get my motor working good, I think I know where to go. They talk about working with the DOE? Hah, fugeddabowdit!

[Midaztouch]

The way I look at this

Sampojo, team and doubters

Just take any motor on the list that I gave or one of your choosing and do the comparison. Check the price, torque, volts, amps and Rpms! Motors that are in a similar price range, lack the torque and Rpms or the wattage is a lot higher than ours. If the motors performance and efficiency is great, the price is thousands of dollars!


Maybe I'm just bias but I do urge everyone to choose a manufacturing company and look at the price, rpm's, torque, voltage, and extra components; controllers, cooling system, chargers, ect.... I believe you will come up with the same answer as me. Our motor IS the unbeatable value in the market!

With some simple upgrades like neo magnets, aluminum case and adjustable brush housing on both ends. We have the undisputed pound for pound, dollar for dollar, watts for watts the best overall motor on the market!

Someone prove that the UFO motor is not the best value anywhere or confirm that it IS The Best Value!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Hitby13kw]

BLDC reproduction part 3

Hello to All,

Well, finally the second part video is here...

ASYMMETRIC BRUSHLESS PART 2 - YouTube

Ufopolitics

Wow UFO excellent work, what a show!!!

Quick update on my reproduction, we have added coils 3 & 4 but instead of using them as additional drive coils, we are using them as generator coils. In this test we have taken the output of each through it’s own full wave bridge and capacitor driving two LEDs with 1000ohm current limiting resistors that normally draw 0.01 Amps. When connected to the generator output we see no additional current drawn to run both the fan & the LED’s. https://www.dropbox.com/s/68lvqk9e3uyohoe/BLDC_003.MP4

Hitby13kw
Research continues . . . .

[esesenergy]

can you run the bigger load ,like another fan?

[erfinder]

Hey Ufopolitics and all
I'm kind of late, sorry about that. I choose the Dual Triangles design, for I think it is very torquey. Here is the armature.


I use the Bifilar Winding. The pair of two parallel coil together have 90 turns of bifilar windings. Means each single coil have 45 turns. I don't have equipment to test the mechanical output right now. But I do have some interesting readings from my meter.
I use a power supply, now a battery ,sorry Ufo I did not follow your advice, this is what I got at the moment. But I put a Huge capacitor band between the power supply and the motor. I set the power supply at 36.2V exactly, and run the motor. In common sense, the motor, the capacitor band, and the power supply are all in parallel, so the voltage of each of them should be the same. But....when I connect the meter's terminals at the point that near the motor, means I wanna test the voltage between the motor input terminals, I connect the meter's terminals behind the capacitor band, near the motor. It reading more than 40V. If I reverse the meter's terminals, means positive to negative, negative to positive, it reads minus several hundreds of volts. And more, my other meter just went crazy, when the motor is running, the other multimeter just can't have a trustable reading, it reads about 18V at the power supply, and hundreds of volts at the motor. I don't know if I'm describing this clearly. The points where should have the exactly same voltage, just show different readings. And if the meter is OK, the voltage near the motor is just higher than the power supply's voltage. Means it is Charging the power supply when running? But why paralleled components have different voltage readings? If I change the motor to a normal motor, everything is back to normal.
I think this kind of readings is because that the electric components in side the meter, when come across radiant energy voltage, is causing unpredictable behavior. I just don't know what kind of meter to trust. I think I should use battery instead of the power supply, and choose another meter.
Sorry I don't have a video to show this beautiful running, Here is the image.



Regards

Ming.

Ah how did I miss this one. I have been dying to see someone getting this one simple effect of the source charging back. This has absolutely nothing to do with radiant!

That which is being called radiant isn't radiant at all. In my opinion, this is the same effect, which continues to allude all of us who are still trying to comprehend how the window motor can be made to power itself.

Comprehend the difference between the radiant (field collapse) event and induced voltage via flux cutting (generator action). Then comprehend the wave forms associated with the induced EMF in these typologies. The window motor generates a funny wave form, its not a simple sine. Carefully consider the effect that the collapsing field has on the higher harmonics of the induced EMF (this includes the winding config under discussion on this thread).

Show a scope shot of the wave your machine generates prior to applying power to your device.


This is where the magic begins, this is where you start looking at how and more importantly "when" this device is performing as a generator. You will find that the adopted geometry is your limitation, the fields aren't as they need to be for you to be enabled to generate while you motor.

Regards

[s e t h]

if someone is looking to push the into new territory with this that no-one has yet posted i personally think a multi-pole universal style motor from say a washing machine will be a very interesting option to play with.

[iankoglin]

if someone is looking to push the into new territory with this that no-one has yet posted i personally think a multi-pole universal style motor from say a washing machine will be a very interesting option to play with.

G'day seth
It has been done John Stone Asymmetrically modified with a universal Vacuum motor and precisely documented his build and results.

It would be good if you modify Asymmetrically a multi-pole universal style motor from say a washing machine and show your build and the results you get.

I am sure it would be interesting if before you actually modify the motor to do some tests on it and after the modifying is complete do the same tests to compare and show us the results.

Also it would be nice if you document your progress by some videos or Pics.

Looking forward to your build
Kindest Regards

[s e t h]

hmm...i must have missed that...i knew he was working on one.
i have been following this thread but i guess it escaped me.
i tried now searching for his results but unfortunately failed...if anyone could point me in their direction i'd be grateful.

and yes i know i should build it myself...i did try and i may try again...it was a little above my pay grade then.

with my recent post above i was just hoping to throw the idea out into the aether in case it attracted someone with more resources and skill to take a look at what might be achieved when using field coils instead of magnets in this research.

i'm convinced there will be further gains to be had when using two opposite polarity collapsing fields to aid rotation.

[iankoglin]

[QUOTE=s e t h;247078]hmm...i must have missed that...i knew he was working on one.
i have been following this thread but i guess it escaped me.
i tried now searching for his results but unfortunately failed...if anyone could point me in their direction i'd be grateful.

and yes i know i should build it myself...i did try and i may try again...it was a little above my pay grade then.

with my recent post above i was just hoping to throw the idea out into the aether in case it attracted someone with more resources and skill to take a look at what might be achieved when using field coils instead of magnets in this research.

i'm convinced there will be further gains to be had when using two opposite polarity collapsing fields to aid rotation QUOTE]

G'day Seth
It's a kind thought I suppose but it's obvious you have missed most of UFO's posts as he has even built a universal motor with only the copper wire and wood No other metal also others here have replicated many of the motors UFO has shown US and tested them and showed the results of their builds So there is really no need to suggest what others might try to build, we here are a team and as we have here as many examples we want to keep us busy so really we do not need any further suggestions.

What did you try with before $10 is not a lot of expense

You really need to read both of UFO's threads all of them from the start.

UFO has already shown us

Everyone is invited to Read, learn what UFO has disclosed Buy 2 $6 Tandy motors or 2 Goldmine motors @ $3.50 Replicate the build and to show their progress and Results, I am sure you would be pleased with the results we here would only be pleased for you to show them to us.

Kindest Regards


Kogs busy as usual

[s e t h]

i have done a build here: http://flytek.effectivehosting.co.za...ds/vid1-10.avi

that build switched between symmetrical and asymmetrical using same magnets and coils and had adjustable timing.

then i got stuck on the universal washing machine motor because of various reasons

my last design was intended to be able to switch between standard symmetrical and asymmetrical so as to prove asymmetrical could spin faster for longer on the same battery with all else remaining the same. the last design was also intended for field coil application.

i will try build this in small and super simple way.

[iankoglin]

i have done a build here: http://flytek.effectivehosting.co.za...ds/vid1-10.avi

that build switched between symmetrical and asymmetrical using same magnets and coils and had adjustable timing.

then i got stuck on the universal washing machine motor because of various reasons

my last design was intended to be able to switch between standard symmetrical and asymmetrical so as to prove asymmetrical could spin faster for longer on the same battery with all else remaining the same. the last design was also intended for field coil application.

i will try build this in small and super simple way.

G'day Seth
A nice build I could not really see the commutators or how it was built

I would suggest that you buy 3 of these motors they are 5 poles and a bit larger than the Tandy motors that UFO suggested we try for our first experiments. They are really our experiments as UFO has already done the experiments himself and his 2 threads are really to disclose his findings.
you can buy them here
Massive 12VDC Motor-Electronic Goldmine

If you buy 3 of them you use 2 to rebuild asymmetrically as UFO described earlier in this thread and then you can run the modified motor and the un modified one to compare the two.

Most of those active on this thread have already done these experiments and like myself have proved that the asymmetric motors run smoother, cooler and appear more efficient.
I myself along with others really put these little motors to the test and really destroyed them by applying too many volts.
They really are only little toys and we really over worked them to prove for ourselves that what UFO said was in fact exactly as he said.

If UFO suggested that we buy say $300 motors to do our experiments with I am sure there would be very little interest but after doing this experiment quite a few of us have purchased larger motors to continue our replications .

I am sure if you follow UFO.s instructions you will be satisfied with the results and if you have any difficulties on the way show us what you have done and the problem you encounter and we here will be only willing to help you

Kindest regards in your endeavour


Kogs Part of the team